here are the stl files for the goosky S2 tail fins.

These include both left and right tail motor mount position with respect to the tail boom.

I used both abs and petg filaments. abs gave good finish, clean print but a bit fragile & stiff.
petg is harder to print, rough finish print but more flexible.

Note that there are two versions of the tail motor hole mount, originall S2 motor (3 holes) and the other is for 4 hole motors.

The zip file contains the xhtml files so you can view any of them in a web browser.

drop a a message if you find this is useful.

I have sucessfully making 3D printed servo arms for the mentioned helis.
Now I can fly, crash and destroy as many as servo arms as I want to without breaking the banks and importantly,
downtime due to waiting for parts.

Note: this servo arm (deliberately) has longer offset for my needs of clearance distance between the arm and the servo's case.

Hi all,

I had a glitch moment today during a flight with my E180 (aka Yu-Xiang F180).

The E180 was upright when this happended. Suddenly, the heli loss pitch and elevate controls, it kept rising up and was about 10m in the air
and 20m away from me. Had no choice but to cut trotthle to let the E180 fall back to earth. Nothing serious damage but found a wire has broken
off the rear (center servo). Took it home and remove it off the heli and found this (see the attached photo).

Hello fellow fliers.

I pretty sure most (or all) of us one time or more would be accidentally plugging in the XT-30 connectors back to front. I am of no exception.
I have developed a way to minimisze the chances of this happening again. Here are a few steps that I hope may be helpful to you guys:

- mark the +ve with red color, nail vanish, sharpie color pen etc.
- optionally, mark the -ve with black color.

Now see a series of photos below to avoid the reversal connection.

You can try with spare unwired XT-30 plug & socket for a feel. For practice don't try on your battery and ESC connectors until you are confident enough.

Some of you guys asked me to provide information about the changes to run the E150 on 2s lipos.
Well, it is sort of easy in theory but some may find it very difficult in practice. This procedure may not be doable for eveybody.
It was due to the winny tiny components on the FBL pcb itself. So here you are you have been warned.
And BTW, do the mod at your own risks., there is no liability on my part. I did the mod and it worked for me.

There are two options: with and without VBatt monitoring.
- with VBatt monitoring, you'll need a tiny 18k resistor
-without Vbatt monitoring, all you need is a tiny hook up wire.

Hi all,

Here is a small tutorial of how to rewind a small brushless tail motor. The motor could be burnt out or wires being ripped off.

The first thing is to remove it off the tail mount. Don't remove the tail blade yet as it helps to prevent the bell from turnning
when trying to remove the tiny circlip at the end of the motor. Get a platic bag, large enough to put your hands into it.
Place the motor inside the plastic bag while working to remove the tiny circlip. It is easily sprung off on to the floor and very
hard to locate it, hence the need to work inside the plastic bag.

Here are the steps to set up the E180 head:

HINT:
- If the heli is powered with the radio OFF, the 3 servos stay at their set 0 pitch (centered).
- After powered up & bound to the radio, if throttle is kept at 0%, the FBL will not
compensate the servos when tilt (any direction). So keep throttle hold active (ie: 0% or -100% (openTx etc..)
at all time during this set up.

1. Carry out the servos 0 deg (center) adjustment (steps 2 to 5) or skip if already done so.
2. Power up the heli and the radio, wait until both of them are ready and bound. On the FBL keep all 3 trim pots at their centers.
3. Put the heli into servo center adjust mode by clicking the bind button 4 times.
4. Adjust the 3 cyclic servos for their center using elevate stick = center servo, aileron stick = left servo
and rudder stick = right servo.
5. Once you are happy with the servo centers, press the bind button once to switch it back to normal mode.
This saves the new setting. If power was removed before clicking the bind button the new setting will not be saved.
6. Ensure the heli is in 3D mode, put the radio into throtle hold mode (ie: keeping throttle 0% at all times)
7. Now adjust the pitch curve in the radio for both +/- ranges. (for me, about 11 deg of both sides).
8. Keep pitch at 0 deg, rotate the head and ensure a uniform read of 0 deg pitch with 360 deg of rotation.
You may find this tool be handy for checking the 0 deg pitch: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...73&postcount=1
9. Keep pich at 0 deg, set the elevate and aileron angles to your settings.
10. All done, good luck.

Hi guys,

Here is my new idea of a swash leveling tool to make it easier for perfectly setting up the swash plate without much guessing.
This sample is for leveling my E150, E180 but you can built others up to your heli's scale.
For the material, I used 2 strips of 180mmx10mm PCB and 2 pieces of paper cut out from a packing cardboard box.
Otherwise, I'll leave it to you guys to choose the material that you want to use. The important thing is they must be very straight or flat.

To use it, just set your collective pitch angle to zero, then rotate the head around. If leveled, all ends should sit at zero deg horizontally.
You'll get a hang of it and know what I meant when you build and use it.

My E150 and E180 swashes are now 100% zero leveled.
Hope this is a useful tool for you guys with micro helis.

* * * * * * * * *

Here are the pics of the two E150

After many broken finger nails, I've made a useful ball link tool for such a task.

Here are a few photos showing the 'real' tool for larger size helis and the home made tool for micro size helis. The screw and nut size is 2mm.

Let me know if you are interested of how to make this thing then I'll prepare an instruction of how to.

Make a note that, the one in the photo is for righthanded, you'll need to reverse to the other sise if you are left handed.

EDIT: I'll make a straight one so it can be used for right/left handed users.

I am getting my OMP M2 explore FC to have a brain surgery.
The stock FC uses the STM32F303C8 processor which has 64k of FLASH memory, 16k of RAM memory and contains no DSP instructions.
It is now being modified to have the STM32F303CC processor which has 256k of FLASH memory, 48k of RAM memory and contains DSP instructions.

This post was initial posted in the OMP M2 thread but I have decided to keep that thread clean and dedicated to the M2 topic only.
Hence this thread is being created. I'll post the progress as I am moving along together with the result or outcome.

The M2 with new STMF3 processor will be running with the HF3D firmware.

I have mapped the pin out of the stock FC and ported into HF3D. It was successfully compiled with no errors.

For anyone interested, the STL and the FreeCad design files are here. Download and print or modify the design as you wish.
No string attached, no royalty, as well as no warranty.
If you want the design file in another format, shoot me message, I'll see if I can save it in the requested format.

This is a mini of how to make such a tail mount.

It is up to you to decided which material works best for you. All dimensions are in mm.

The material I am using is a fibre glasss blank PCB of 1.5mm in thickness.

Have fun guys

EDIT: forgot to mention that you'll need to drill two of the 1.7mm holes on both sides of the boom that hold the motor mount.
Using the 2mm screw to 'tap' the holes.

Hi all,

This thread is for beginners and intermediate level of pilots (like myself) to explore and experimenting with the Torque Assisted Left Yaw idea.
Ideally, this feature should be implemented in the Flight controller (FC) due to the complexity of the control/feedback mechanism.
However, I did experimenting this feature with just by program my Jumper T16 radio and was very delighted with this feature.
Big thanks to whoever came up with this idea and implemented in the FC.

WARNING: The most important is to back up your model/radio settings before adding this feature.

For the radio setup, it is very simple. We will need a 5 point curve and mixes in the radio mixer. Attached are the two pics showing the settings via the OpenTX Companion.
After settings are done and saved to the radio, you can check on the radio display for proper function of the new feature.
The next step is to remove the main blades and do a real check on the heli itself. Ensure the heli is also secured during test due to the tail rotor's action.
Referring to my setting, when the radio in normal/throttle hold and Idle2, at 0%, the main motor should not be running when the yaw stick is moving in both left/right direction. In Idle1, place the throttle stick at mid stick and yaw it to the left. You should see the motor speeding up/ down accordingly. Now try to pull the yaw stick fully to the right, the motor should be constant at the Idle1 speed.

Feel free to adjust the values in the Idle1 to your liking as per described in the pic.

Disclaimer:
The instruction provided here is for experimenting purpose, if you are not confident enough then don't do it.
All setting values are based on my JumperT16 running on my M2 with an external SFHSS to SBUS radio module.
For your radio and receiver, the values may be different, for example, channel reversal, 0:100% (spektrum) vs -100% : +100% (for OpenTX) etc..

Shoot me a message if this feature does help you to fly a bit better.

.....

This blog is for people who wishes to send me photos or screenshot or whatever...
To make it clean, after I review the info, I may remove them so don't expect the info stays here forever.

For congcon,

Here are photos for your info.

Note that I was experiment with the trex150grs gyro but this is the same for the K110 gyro as well.
You'll have to mount the rear servo to make the correct moving direction as the K110 has a front servo.

So in summary, the BEC 5V is bypassed the gyro and being fed directly to the 3 cyclic servos and also to the gyro via the small servo cables.

Hi all,

A few people were asking me for the easiest way to program BLHeli esc'es.

Here is a short instruction of how to.

You'll need:

1. usb to serial converter
this is an example from ebay : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38416432...Bk9SR67eo637YQ

2. a 1k resistor

3. a schottky diode : for example sm5819a
https://www.jaycar.com.au/smd-diode-...ck-10/p/ZR1021

4. a PC running BLHeli suite and the driver for the usb to serial installed. I am assuming we are using WIndows OS.

5. A BLHeli ESC flashed with blheli bootloader.


See the photo for connection.

More to come

Here are a few pics of my new helicopter. Work in progress. I named it the PT-DMD130

What it has:

brushless DMD main motor (RaceStar BR2212 1000kv 2/4s)
Tarot tail hub as main rotor hub
x3 linear cyclic servos
brushless tail motor
running on 2s batteries.

Hi all,

For the benefits of those wanting to use the K110 gyro as the flight controller, I am posting wiring diagrams showing how it is done.
The first diagram is for brushless tail, note that the 5V BEC is only driving the three cyclic servos and the K110 gyro, any BEC capable of 1.5A would be enough.

and the second diagram is for 1s brushed tail, note that the 5V BEC is driving the three cyclic servos, the K110 gyro and the tail motor so the 5V BEC must be capable of at least 3A or better.

HINT: Beware about the quoted tiny '3A BECs' sold on Ebay, Aliexpress and Banggood. Although they advertiseds as 3A, however, for most of them, the 3A figure is the burst current for about 10 seconds. I bought a batch of 10 of them on Ebay but have to return them. Testing them revealed the continuous current is only 1.5A and even so, they got very hot to the touch. And yup, those are rated as 3A capable, which is a load of trash.

Hi all,

I was working with BLHeli firmware for a while just to adapt the control signal to accept PWM up to 16kHz.
The reason for it was, the WL-Toys K110 gyro board is an excellent flight controller and has the tail signal of 16KHz PWM.

With my shallow knowledge of BLHeli, I'll try to explain the differences between BLheli Electronics Speed Controllers (ESC).
The purpose is to help those newbies to select the correct type of BLHeli ESC for their vehicles.

Currently, there are 3 types of BLheli ESC's: BLHeli, BLHeli_S and BLHeli_32

BLHeli: The birth of an open source firmware for ECS's. The target was for tiny micro helicopters and was
started with the 8 bit ATMEL microprocessor, the mega8.
It was proved to be popular so it expanded into multi-rotors vehicles.

But soon, the mega8 was found to be lacking of resources and power to control various type of motors.
It was then replaced by the Silabs processor. Silabs BLHeli based on these three type of processors:
C8051F310, C8051F330 and C8051F390, the higher the number, the more advance and faster processor.
UPDATE: some PRO ESCes also uses this more advanced processor: C8051F396.

BLHeli supports MAIN, MULTI and TAIL motors. BLHeli came with two varieties: Atmel and Silabs processors

BLHeli_S: As soon as the BLHeli exploded with multi-rotors vehicles, more advance functions are required so the BLHeli designer switched to the more advanced and even faster Silabs processors, the 'BusyBee' family and they came in these...Continue Reading