Jay B. Scott's blog View Details
Archive for October, 2016
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 31, 2016 @ 02:16 AM | 5,192 Views
Below is a side view diagram of my initial retract study. The wheel is 3" diameter. The 10" prop comes down to the center of the wheel, giving me 1-1/2" clearance for my grass field. I still have to figure out my exact strut length, but this should get you all started with your own calculations, based on what retracts you use. I'm using E-flite 25-46 size electric retracts, which are used in this drawing. The drawing is actual size.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 29, 2016 @ 04:21 PM | 4,479 Views
This is the moment I've been waiting for since I started this build about three months ago. I'm now completely through with Zeke's manual-in-progress 1.5. I've proved that the plane kit can be successfully put together, through the info in the three manuals-in-progress, plus my additions and corrections on this blog and previously on the Bamboo Bomber thread. There is now no need to wait any longer to build your own Bobcat.

I'll be continuing on with the completion of the plane and posting the highlights. I wish you all much enjoyment with your own build.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 27, 2016 @ 10:55 PM | 4,466 Views
I just got through gluing the port nacelle top sheeting/planking in place, and I wanted you guys to see all the pins! It's funny, because on the bottom side I held everything together with just masking tape.

The top went together in the rear very nicely, without having to trim anything. I did initially trim the piece earlier as I was dry fitting it, so I wouldn't have to hassle with that part when it came time to glue it on.

Again, the only places where I used gap-filling CA was on the longeron first, and then the outside edges of the formers, one side at a time. But the CA goes on only after getting the wood glue on everywhere else first.

It also helps to paper-towel-sponge Windex on the top of the planking to help with the bending. The underside of the planking is generously coated with wood glue to get the glue in between the planks, and then smoothed off.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 27, 2016 @ 04:44 PM | 3,959 Views
The iconic pilot of pilots, Robert A. "Bob" Hoover, passed away two days ago on Tuesday, at the age of 94. I have a special place in my heart for this man, as I modelled his famous Rockwell Shrike Commander from the Nick Ziroli designed/House of Balsa kitted Electric Commander. Your life was amazing and inspiring, Bob. We'll miss you.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 27, 2016 @ 04:29 PM | 3,257 Views
I'm sheeting/planking the port nacelle. I used mostly wood glue (with gap-filling CA on the former edges to lock the parts into place). With wood glue, you're not supposed to stress the joints for 24 hours. So the key to success is to take your time. And even though this is a precision laser-cut kit, when you wet balsa, it will swell. So you will have to trim as necessary. Below is a pic of the bottom sheeting/planking all done.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 23, 2016 @ 02:36 AM | 2,511 Views
Two pix to remind everyone to get your wires run before sheeting the nacelles. The ESCs are in the fuse, which has lots of room. I used wire from Radio Shack: 3 color, 18 gauge, stranded, 24" each. I also twisted them for insurance or maybe just superstitious luck.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 21, 2016 @ 06:05 PM | 2,863 Views
Well now--I'm back on track with the build. The first pic is the rebuilt port nacelle understructure. Note its symmetry. Now look at the next pic. This is one I took a couple weeks ago after putting the first two formers on backwards. You can see how asymmetrical it is. Proof again that there's only one way to build it right!
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 20, 2016 @ 03:57 AM | 2,315 Views
At the time that I left the Bamboo Bomber thread, there was a debate as to how to modify the nacelle ply frame to make all the parts fit. Below are two pix that should prove what needs to be done: Simply widen the bottom front notch on the outboard ply frame side NF2 to match its top front notch.

There is only one way to put the ply frame together, so if it's done wrong, it will be very obvious. But this isn't a Rubics Cube, so just take the time to make sure it's right. It's not really hard.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 20, 2016 @ 01:29 AM | 2,282 Views
As I'm familiarizing myself with these nacelle parts, I'm noticing hints as to how they are all keyed together, so that they can only work one way. The following two pix show some of these hints in the placement of the top skins and the longerons.

Also, another hint is that for the formers, the "D"s are on the outside, and the "B"s are on the inside.

Another hint that I already covered in the other thread is that NF3A follows the taper of the wing, so the outboard side will be lower than the inboard side. This will also line up the "center" notch (slightly offset to the outboard side) with those on NF2 and NF1.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 19, 2016 @ 02:43 AM | 2,394 Views
OK--I knocked out cutting out the nacelle replacement parts. I didn't take the paper off the parts, as it wasn't necessary (or doable--boy, were they stuck on there good!) Next is to tear the old parts off the ply frame and install the new ones--correctly, this time
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 18, 2016 @ 03:19 PM | 2,516 Views
Here's a pic of my Bobcat nacelle replacement parts in progress. I spray for permanent bonding, just to get a good amount of glue on to keep the paper in place while I work the part. After the part is shaped, almost all the time I can get the paper off by stretching and snapping it off the wood. I hand-shape the straight edges with a knife and ruler, and use the disc sander for getting the rounded parts ground down to the line, which leaves the edge nice and square throughout.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 12, 2016 @ 07:32 PM | 2,292 Views
Here's where I'm at in the build. I built my port nacelle wrong, so I need to rebuild it. As is my habit when I start a laser-cut project with no plan or templates for spare parts, I first scan in my laser-cut balsa parts sheets. This is my guarantee that in the event of a mistake, which of course is going to happen (at least in my case!), I'll avoid being stuck with a kit I can't finish. I use Adobe Photoshop Elements (the cheap cut-down version of regular Photoshop for $100) to do my graphics manipulations in preparation for printing out parts templates. By the way, this program is way easier and faster to learn than CAD, although it's not meant as a replacement for CAD. But as you can see, it's very, very handy.

I've attached the nacelle parts printouts in five pdf files, and you're welcome to use them in the event that you also get hung up.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Oct 11, 2016 @ 05:07 PM | 2,309 Views
I decided that due to circumstances beyond my control, I will not finish the Bamboo Bomber on Zeke's thread, but here where I have more control over the content. Stay tuned . . .