Posted by SteelRainSpo | Nov 08, 2017 @ 11:52 AM | 1,903 Views

Group 4-80 Amp Continuous Current Lipo Testing & Shootout (26 min 46 sec)

Check out my latest 80amp high current, group 4 lipo testing YouTube video featuring the newest offerings from Hyperion and Indestructible Quads. I subject these packs to an 80amp continuous current torture test to see what abuse they can take. Check the video's description for the spreadsheet results to see how these batteries stack up against the competition, and stay tuned for the following summary video where I discuss the testing results.
Posted by 1000MPH | Nov 08, 2017 @ 11:20 AM | 9,185 Views
I picked up a nice used Kinetic 2 Meter this past weekend. There's a few cracks in the tail but it's been repaired and is solid. The overall build looks good but I will go over everything.

Update: A pic on the rock at Weldon after a fun day. 5/19/18

Posted by tigman | Nov 08, 2017 @ 11:13 AM | 2,612 Views
When your in a pinch for a small gear puller, l used 1/4" key stock and a little grinding, square nuts, and a long small bolt.
Posted by zanek | Nov 08, 2017 @ 09:30 AM | 2,963 Views
Hello all

Recently I have been working on designing a 90mm ducted frame for use with micro brushless motors. I am looking to build something that I can bounce off walls like my Inductrix Pro, but also has a little more power so it can be flown outdoors and in larger indoor spaces as well. I wanted to see if anyone else would be interested in purchasing the frame that I am designing if it was offered for sale in the future

Let me know your thoughts

Proposed Parts List:

Motors: KingKong 1103 7800KV Brushless

Kingkong 1103 7800KV Brushless Motors


Props: 1935 3 blade

Battery: 2s ~500mah

RX: Spektrum Satellite

Posted by 3rd-dem | Nov 08, 2017 @ 07:00 AM | 2,740 Views
Just got the Model Sounds Inc. system in my Carbon Z T-28 and loving it.
Sounds awesome in the air, missing some of the lower frequencies due to phone recording but you get the idea!
T-28 w/Model Sounds Inc. R/C sound system. (1 min 13 sec)

Posted by ErikW1969 | Nov 08, 2017 @ 02:04 AM | 4,170 Views
Hey yawl,
If you have trouble focusing on the screen you can add the dollar tree reading glasses. Made the focus perfect for me. Did the same thing with the ev800 goggles I had before based on a post in rcgroups and, similar to those, these also have a channel that seems to be made to accept the glasses but it's right next to your face and you have to bend the glasses to fit. Here's how I did it;

Buy the 2.75 reading glasses with the black frames marked "wide frame" that have the squarish lenses and remove the arms and the bit on the frame that the arms attach to - I just snipped that part off with flush cutters.

Heat up the nose piece with a lighter so it's soft enough to bend and then bend the glasses to fit the goggles. You can easily take the goggles apart with four screws so you can line up the glasses in the slot to get the bend angle correct.

Install the glasses in the slot with the goggles apart or you can do it with them assembled by inserting one side first into one of the corners and then flexing them enough to squeeze into the mask opening.

They will sit very close to your eyes like this but it works. You could also position them behind the nose guard on the goggles but they will sit up higher and you won't be able to see the bottom edge of the screen clearly. You could of course cut some stuff to get them to sit lower I suppose but having them in front of the nose guard kind of locks them into place and seems to work - for me at least.

One good thing about doing it this way is you can easily take them in or out as needed and since I'm using them for ride-along passenger goggles that's a big plus.
Posted by | Nov 07, 2017 @ 11:17 PM | 1,916 Views
Latest pick of the bunch specials at Gearbest: the BNF Bfight 210 with frsky transmitter is only $99. The E011 santa (JJHRC H67) is only $11

Details here:
Posted by AtomicMilk | Nov 07, 2017 @ 09:19 PM | 2,174 Views
I work for an estate liquidation company. Every so often we run across an rc car, but today I scored.

Brinkmann Hustler Buggy.
It's built like a tank, but I have to decide whether to just leave it as is and shelf it (not really my thing).

The tires are pretty good with no rot, but the wheels are super brittle. I managed to test it with a 7.4v lipo and alligator clips to bypass the split nicad. Everything works, but the steering is really loose from the crap servo, and the controller is just hard to use. I may just change the servo, use a micro receiver in a different location, and use the entire tray for mounting a battery. I can use grasshopper front wheels (which I have plenty of), but the rear is a rectangle shaft and will require mods. I could always use some old rc10 wheels and drill out the holes into a rectangle shape to fit. It might be the best option. See pics below.
Posted by DucPilot | Nov 07, 2017 @ 08:24 PM | 3,095 Views
After 15 years out of the hobby, looking to get back in. Loved slope back in the day. Now looking to get into DLG and some sloping .
You would think living in Hawaii we would have lots of areas to slope gliders at. But the cost of land is so high, and the areas to fly so densely populated slope hills are hard to find. I live on Oahu, and the only slope flyable is Lanikai pillbox. But the landing zone is sketch.

Before Moving back to Oahu I lived in San Diego for about 10 years. There were so many paces to fly. You were just limited by the wind.
Here it's almost the opposite. Lots of wind. Not too many places to fly.

Anyone on this board slope in Hawaii? I'd like to meet up with you and talk shop!!!


Posted by TomHale | Nov 07, 2017 @ 06:01 PM | 1,593 Views
Thanks for adding me!

I' m a 75 year old, retired, man. My wife of 48 years passed a year ago after a long fight with Alzhiemer"s. I live in Kent, Washington, a suburb SE of Seattle.
I flew control line and R/C a lot 1975-1980, received my Private Pilot, Single Engine Land in 1992, built a Hummel Bird and crashed it (tiny, single seat, all aluminum, 1/2 VW motor).

Now I want to do R/C again. I build in balsa, prefer from plans. I'm looking at old time Free Flight, converted to electric R/C, at least 7 foot or so wing span. I'm not afraid of scaling to a size I like. I like gliders, be they Bird of Time or cabin or pylon from the '30's or now. Stick and tissue preferred, but not required. I'm not into a lot of walking anymore so no High Start or winch, a prop somewhere is what I like. Almost certainly electric.

Posted by | Nov 07, 2017 @ 05:32 PM | 2,369 Views
I've detailed my experiences of getting into multigp racing here starting with a build of a low cost super light 5" quad. This is centred largely around the XJB F428 TX20 stack and whether it can stretch to run a full 5" set up.

More details here:

Posted by CoryPaas | Nov 07, 2017 @ 05:22 PM | 1,544 Views
yes its really me
Posted by mperaltaoz | Nov 07, 2017 @ 03:36 PM | 4,416 Views
Back to the classics.
Always liked the good old Trojan and I wanted my very own instead of the available RTF's.
So... I built it

Such a great flyer, performed like a pro from maiden.

Build Log:

Maiden video
T28 Trojan Maiden (2 min 58 sec)

Posted by Matthew974 | Nov 07, 2017 @ 10:25 AM | 1,748 Views
Can someone help in tx (taranis) flap setup for this model?
Posted by jjose2929 | Nov 07, 2017 @ 10:16 AM | 1,648 Views
hello I have a midwest at-6 texan I have problems with the center of gravity 4.5 in super heavy tail can you help me