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put in carbon tubes to reinforce the weak nose. The will go here once inserted -
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The missing foam. Merely a flesh wound! -
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glued in a blue foam patch -
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put the dowels in here. They lined up perfectly inside the plane with the existing foam battery plate shelf, The line in the side coordinates with one of the fake panel lines
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Views: 99
The amp draw with the new motors. -
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I used the motor adapter as a razor holder while I spun the foam engine nacelle around against the knife. Don't try and cut thru all at once, but be very careful to hold your line. -
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There is a small mold line around the nacelle. I used that as a reference to cut the motor off. -
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Glued it back on in the vertical. Taped them too. -
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Added glue behind the firewall just cause it was convenient -
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Had to re drill to make the new motors centered -
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Cut the foam away -
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here it is cut off
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made Storch like gear. -
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Filled the wing with spackle and bondo creme -
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Another gear angle. This set up proves slightly weak. I reinforce it later -
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Looks more storch already -
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Pealed the rudder and now need to make it more scale with a balance. The balance really helps rolls -
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Reinforced with carbon flats -
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Test hop -
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Added my bomb drop. Of course.
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This was completely loose by the 50 missions -
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The nacelle was loose too -
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I carefully pryed the nacelle apart -
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The landing gear piece of course just fell out. -
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here the underside of the top nacelle. Notice not even the line up pin was glued from the factory -
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motor mount revealed -
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retract mount picture bottom view -
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side view
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cut out the stock non scale cockpit -
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Had to cut that area near the magnets as it was in the way -
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Printed instruments off the internet -
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Used food container foam as building material -
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reinforced the weakend cockpit rails with carbon fiber -
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again the cut out. -
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cut holes in the foam to allow light to go thru used a dremel bit.
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This is the Dynam fuselage in halves. The bomb bay is in the middle of the wing section. Need to move the servos out of the way to gain any real volume for Adam Bombs -
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Rear bomb bay open at -
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This is what someone came up with for a 3 D print job. -
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Almost done
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Here he is in his business chair -
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Top angle. I had to cut the floor to clear his butt. No parachute. Had to take out the stuffing. -
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This is without him inside. I made the chair short to make it easier to put on with him inside first. Canopy won't open -
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Looks real enough to buy a beer for. -
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I stiffened the side rails with carbon flats after cutting off the stock tub -
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Kidd Hofer's kill record -
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Hofer about to climb into his kite -
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Getting out after a successful first flight in QP-L SALEM REPRESENTATIVE
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This is the Airfix model. -
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Here is my version about half complete -
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Doomstown -
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Close up of cottage -
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magnets hold the sides and roofs -
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storage and travel is easy very small package. -
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The Condor Legion moved an 88mm into town. Doomstown may not be doomed after all. -
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1/18 scale works pretty good with the buildings
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Here is the plane I modified and put in the bomb bay. Stock configuration doesn't have one. Go figure. -
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here it is finished -
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Now this is it in action. Hard to tell, but that is the model. Looks super realistic. -
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Proper cheek plate and 571st squadron ban on the front. -
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Crew shot of the original Kwitcherbitchen. Nicholas Plackis the bombardier's son Tom gave me some personal photos -
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On the hard waiting for orders -
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Bombs away
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Here is the Hobby Lobby bomb on the pylon. Why have one when you can have three. -
Views: 430
These hobby lobby bombs proved to be to fragile. So I upgraded to Adam Bombs. -
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Left side view -
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Decided it wasn't centered so I cut a slot for the front pin and took out the spring inside the mechanism to give the poor 2.7 gram servo a rest. -
Views: 448
Here it is with my centerline drop tank on it. I think I will have to modify the tank to raise the tank for ground clearance. -
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Now flight tested and they work great. Here Paper Tiger II ordinance. -
Views: 375
Mig Killer scheme
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When you take out the retracts there are normally pieces of plastic the factory put in to change clearances or support. Most of these are bad for the gear. -
Views: 418
That little round circle puts pressure on the back of the retract as seen here. -
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The pressure distorts the circuit board underneath. -
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That forces the worm gear to rub through the coating on the circuit board and short it out. Do yourself a favor and throw most of those plastic pieces away even if you don't do this mod -
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Next after disassemble of the retract take the stock strut which is much stronger then the PW-RC unit and reverse pound out the pin. The stock units are pressed. -
Views: 470
Use a nail or something along this train of thought to get the last few mm out of the stock strut. -
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You can see were the how far the pin went into the strut. It's usually darker then the rest. -
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next I dremel off any sharpness off the pin. This is important to keep the pin from digging into the bottom plate on rotation.
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This is the base for the bash. A Dynam Waco -
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Here is the model I will make it into. That is my father in 1943 in a Waco F-7 -
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I have this full size bust of my father's head that I will use for the 3 D printer plots to make a scale pilot of my father. -
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I still have his flight gear so I will put it on the bust for scale authenticity for the 3D plots.
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Here is the Plastistrut I used -
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Before I cut it. -
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What the racks look like before glueing -
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Here is how the bomb slide on and off. I had to grind and sand the bomb rack a little to fit inside the rack as they are almost the same diameter. -
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Here is were they will be glued. The one on top of the servo is in a weak position because it is just the tape holding it. I hope it holds up. -
Views: 439
Loaded for bear--Soviet Bear.
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Here is were I will make the servo pocket. -
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I used one of my semi junk HS 55 servos. I cut the ear off so I wouldn't have to tear too much foam out. -
Views: 458
Here it is lined up. -
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Inside the servo barely and I mean barely came through the other side. If I used a smaller servo this would have been unnecessary. -
Views: 456
The drop mechanism's front screw happened to line up with the spar by accident so I put in a ply piece for it to screw into and maybe beef up the spar. -
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ply cut and shaped.
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Copper tape and resistor for a fuse. 1/4 watt 1GHZ. -
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Here it is soldered up. Just need to move the heat shrink tube over the resistor. -
Views: 486
Here it is installed. Not covering all the motor wires might be a mistake, but I'll range test it. -
Views: 442
Ground wire is soldered there towards the firewall.
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Air Hog tail rotor top. Stuka cut away below showing where it mounts on landing gear fairing. -
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Tail rotor removed from copter and shown next to pencil for scale -
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This thing makes a little whining noise when blown on(siren) but I doubt I will hear it in the air. Mostly for looks, -
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Got really tired of the canopy not matching the winter Eastern front camo scheme. I air brushed the base white. Tape will come off when dry. -
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Here it is mounted.