Posted by old4570 | Today @ 04:00 AM | 42 Views
V911 micro wing (0 min 29 sec)

Woo ho ! ...
Will it fly ?
Is it a dogs breakfast ?
With a front moving in , it will be a while before I find out ..
But its done !

Flying weight is about 33.5 grams

Posted by Capt_Kitt | Today @ 03:18 AM | 52 Views
Weird how technology works, one day your glueing wood together to make an aircraft and the next your practically growing one.
I found the files for a Spitfire RC plane and figured I'd give it a go. Nothing much of an update other than that. Oh, I'm using a Malyan M150 Prusa 3 clone for the printing. Clear PLA because that what I had on hand. I'm not expecting much out of this, not even sure if I'll stick electronics on it. I might just assemble it and get the CG set and do some glider tests.
Posted by mnemennth | Today @ 12:45 AM | 152 Views

Oh, yeah... I killed my shiny new SE. I remember reading about this boobytrap in the Plus ages ago, so have religiously unplugged the battery in every Plus I've owned before unplugging/replugging the ribbon cables.

But this afternoon I got ahead of myself doing some side by side testing with my original Plus and unplugged the battery in the WRONG TARANIS , then I removed the ribbon cables and now I'm paying the price. It's just annoying that it's my shiny new Plus SE, which I've already started to Mod.

Afterwards I plugged it into USB and confirmed I have 3.3v on Vcc but no signs of life, so I knew it was the STM32 immediately; I already have the mainboard out & prepped. My preferred method when there are tiny components right next to the CPU is to forget the Hot Air and ChipQuick; they're messy and don't allow you much control.

First, you need a fresh blade in your X-Acto knife; this method requires a steady hand and smooth cutting action. Cut right against the resin body of the chip in a single fluid motion from one side of the chip to the other with moderate pressure; practice removing chips on a junk board and you'll get the right amount of pressure after just a few tries. When you're cutting right, it will feel just like unzipping a zipper.

...Continue Reading
Posted by ilayrug | Today @ 12:12 AM | 153 Views
One of my favorites because it has so much power in a compact frame. Flies like it's on rails and rolls like a football thrown by Peyton Manning.

6s with a Rimfire .55 and Aeronaut Cam Carbon 16x7 prop
Tactic tsx25 digital mini high torque servos
Posted by ilayrug | Yesterday @ 11:58 PM | 164 Views
Was gas but now electric :-). Two setups and both work very well with this plane.

12s with Motrolfly DM-4330 206kv with 20x10 Mejzlak cf prop

6s with Motrolfly DM-4330 400kv with 20x8 Falcon cf prop

Really fast surfaces with lots of throw and torque.
Savox 2273 on elevators
Savox 2231 on pull pull rudder
Hitec 7954 on ailerons

Great flying airplane. I prefer the 6s setup just because it is so light. Even with a 6s 8000mah lipo, the plane is like a feather in the air.
Posted by Spaaro | Yesterday @ 10:09 PM | 227 Views
Finally have some time to dedicate to plane building & project development again!

I didn't do much hobby stuff during winter unfortunately but I did organize my work space, creating:
- Dedicated tool shelving, caddies & cabinets...

- Wall-mounted tool organizers(..its FANTASTIC giving everything a 'home' beyond cluttering counter space, plus knowing where it all is!..)...

- A dedicated vacuum laminating table & wing building forms

I did do lots of doodling and fleshing out details for my builds underway(..the 1930's biplane plug, several approaches to wing building, some glider fuselages..).

One new idea that sprang up was a novel fuselage plug that grew out of a discarded Wii controller adaptor. I think it is a Wii 'Fishing' or 'Sword Fight' rod/wand housing attachment...possibly a generic brand.

It just screamed 'glider forward fuselage pod' to me.

So...with a length of wood as an axial armature and pieces forming a tapered tail brace + wing a deodorant bottle's conical lid for a nose fairing, I'm quickly shaping a good size plug.
I'll finish forming over its gaps & openings with scrap plastic & veneer wood; then surface seal, tape & wax. I think this will be my first glass shell test prototype...before the biplane.

This makes 3 gliders I have without wings and only 1 with tail feathers. I just might bash up a Dollar Tree foam board set of wings to get something flying sooner than later.
Posted by inedesca | Yesterday @ 09:37 PM | 228 Views
I am trying a new idea: I use papercraft plans to make them in cardstock and balsa. The great thing is tha you will have a beautiful and precise finish.
Right now I am finishing a 24" thunderbolt, and seems to be easier than balsa construcion.
All papercrafts come in A4 size, but I can scale them any size I want, and seems that tabloid size is the best.
Of course I do not print them at home but at a printing shop.
I use opaline paper which is glossy and thick enough.
It requires some skill but not difficult to learn.
I have about 200 designs to choose from (15 different Mustangs for example)
Have ever tryed it?
Posted by Whiskers | Yesterday @ 09:36 PM | 231 Views
Very successful test flight without the FPV gear. Full FPV very soon...
017 (8 min 38 sec)

Posted by errorman | Yesterday @ 07:31 PM | 309 Views
hi peep
just a quick up date to show my new 3D printed GoPro case for the GoPro Base..

Here is the link

Go on get some colour on your Go Pro... 6 colours to choose from at the mo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Enjoy and many thanks for your time and support
Posted by Tarmakin | Yesterday @ 07:01 PM | 327 Views
Posted by Tarmakin | Yesterday @ 06:59 PM | 322 Views
Check it out

California Farm Field Shots (2 min 4 sec)

Posted by gvc | Yesterday @ 06:58 PM | 323 Views
My main flying partner and I continue to have fun hauling small gliders to altitude and releasing. The release mechanism uses rubber bands to secure it to the top of the tug as described in a previous blog. If you have seen that one you will note I have a new tug airplane which was assembled from junk parts. (The previous tug is no more - short story that will remain untold). The wing on tug 2 is from a modified glider wing given to me by the infamous "Full Throttle Otto". Besides the rudder-only controlled Hawkeye glider you will note a new parasite plane. This is one of those miniature Radians with all the electronics removed (the previous owner did not want the air-frame which we restored to flying condition.) This mini Radian is a passive glider set to circle as it descends. Clearly upwind releases are required but we have not lost it yet. The release mechanism will accommodate both parasite gliders. It is fun to land the tug and watch the little Radian in slow free flight mode and especially satisfying to record prolonged thermal flights and hand catches with the rudder-only Hawkeye.
Posted by Felipe Garcia | Yesterday @ 06:01 PM | 341 Views
Aerowatios 2017
aerowatios 2017 (3 min 13 sec)

Posted by readysetdrone | Yesterday @ 04:22 PM | 385 Views
Fun, cheap, brushed motor RC race car!
RC Race Car FEIYUE FY Review and Test (7 min 32 sec)

Posted by accel8or | Yesterday @ 04:21 PM | 387 Views
I posted this on the Betaflight Forum, but never got a response. I hope somebody can help.
I managed to flash the latest firmware to my KingKong 90GT, using Betaflight. Before that, I bound it to my DX9 radio. I have two major problems.

One is the Receiver Tab on Betaflight . The colored bars that correspond to the stick commands for yaw, pitch, roll, and throttle won't move with the stick movements on the DX9 radio.

The other problem is the quad doesn't respond to the DX9 when I arm the esc's. It's already been bound. I re-bind, and still no response.

I wrote down the configurations that I used on Betaflight:

Serial receiver provider: Spektrum1024
Receiver mode: Serial-based receiver (Speksat, SBUS, etc.)

Ports Tab:
UART1 enabled, MSP (115200)
UART3 is serial rx

Receiver Tab:
Channel Map: TAER1234
RSSI channel: 4
Interpolation: Auto
Deadband for Yaw & RC Deadband = 3

Arm @ Aux1 (range: 1500-2100)
AirMode @ Aux2 (range: 1725-2100)
Angle Mode @ Aux2 (range: 1375-1600)
Horizon Mode @ Aux 2 (range: 900-1275)

The manual for this quad is virtually useless. Had I known, I would've stuck with Blade quads; at least they have manuals and video tutorials.
Posted by Slider2732 | Yesterday @ 04:11 PM | 417 Views
Some background - a while ago, I bought 8 spare motors for my Eachine E010. All arrived as the same direction !!!
It flew fine for about 4 flights, then has progressively lost power and punch as the 2 'wrong' ones have decayed over another dozen flights.
So, a Furibee F-36 was bought as a source of spare least that was the intention. I've had a weird time with my other F-36, it goes screwy for yaw on high rates sometimes. It'll spin 720 degrees around to the same spot rather than turn by a few degrees. Idea there being to swap the Rx on the other F-36 and use the motors for the E010.

Anyway, we're due to travel to MN in a few days time, needing a camera platform for analysis of a church that my wife has inherited. I've only got a couple of options, the failing E010 with Hubsan 2MP camera, or/and convert the spare F-36 with the guts from the disappointing Z201YS WiFi enabled quad (it turned at the speed of a dead snail and faught wind like a plastic bag doesn't !)

So, the idea - take the canopy off the F-36, put the Z201YS guts on top and convert it to use a 205mA lipo.
It all went very well, except my soldering iron bust. Time for another...seems to be every 2 months or so like clockwork.
A piece of paper was glued on top of the F-36 board, then Z201YS mainboard, WiFi and camera on top. A connector was made to convert the battery end.
Just did a test and it all went very well. Was outdoors in case of weird yaw or something, but will be tried indoors to assess any needed trim. It seems to be stable, no wandering and especially there's very little in the way of jello. I have to muck about with the Tx to get lines in the recording or on the phone display. The WiFi link to the phone is fine, no interference from the F-36 board. It doesn't like direct sunlight, fair enough, never did and is only a CMOS 640x480 image but IS an option now for recording up in MN.
AUW 26g with a 205mA

Pic of conversion and an outdoor still:
Posted by rcadin | Yesterday @ 04:08 PM | 413 Views
just received this car and it only runs for ten minutes on a full charge. Seems like the transmitter has a bad connection with the car because when I turn the car and transmitter off and then on again it works for another ten seconds and then stops completely.

Any idea on how I can fix this problem?
Posted by GBLynden | Yesterday @ 04:03 PM | 418 Views
This is the Unboxing video for my new EMAX Babyhawk Micro 2S Brushless FPV Racing Drone.

Unboxing Only - EMAX Babyhawk Micro 2S Brushless FPV Racing Drone (7 min 50 sec)

Here are my review notes for this Micro FPV Drone:

- The camera is set at an upward angle for fast FPV flight
- It cames with a 2S brushless setup pre-installed
- The price point is very reasonable price
- PNP and BNF versions are available
- It accepts and flies well with a wide range of battery options
- You can optimize it in Betaflight

- It requires soldering in a small space with the PNP version
- You have to setup and arm it in Betaflight

It is a bit different than most of my other RC Quadcopters, RC Multirotors, or RC Drones. This doesn't come RTF with its own radio. I got the PNP version and use it with my Spektrum DX6. The receiver I am using is the SPM4648 DSMX FPV Racing Serial Receiver, which had to be soldered onto the Femto F3 FlightController/PDB board.

It does comes in a BNF version like the Blade Torrent 110 and Blade Nano QX2 FPV, but this is the PNP version.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 03:50 PM | 422 Views
The H King finally did a 6 mile drive without any gremlins. Compressing the springs just 1/2" & narrowing just the bottom was enough to keep it from bottoming out with 8oz of payload for 3 miles. This took 1800mAh.

It took 1800mAh to go 8 miles in the hills at 9:30/mile with a shirt for part of that.