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Posted by VicT | Yesterday @ 10:02 PM | 1,532 Views
x440 was purchased us ed in good condition with a brushed geared 480 and no ESC

Proposed :

motor is an Axi 2820-10
40 -60 amp ESC with brake
12/6 folder
3-4 S 2200 Graphene lipo
2.4 Spektrum 6 ch RX
DX9 TX

Wings are approx 170-180 grams

Approx weight of proposed items are 749 grams
Total RTF 929 grams or 32 oz

My concern is that there will not be enough nose weight compared to the original motor and nicad cells.

However a preliminary check shows that this will not be a problem with a 2200 4S Graphene pack or a smaller lighter 1000 3 or4S pack.

I have a Kunai wing that fits the X440 fuse. It is heavier than the stock 440 wing. With 2 spoileron servos she weighs 262 grams which is about 80 grams heavier. Wing area of 308 sq inches would be higher and put the combination into a Warmliner class....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Apr 01, 2020 @ 06:34 AM | 4,632 Views
Mar 31, at WPMPA using Flyzone Calypso motorglider with flaps for testbed. Hand tossed glide to adjust elevator clevis position. Full power climbout SAFE Off (B2) flew OK with no limits during looping and rolling and diving. Was able to control plane. Light 5 mph winds so AS3X gust mitigation could not be seen.
With SAFE On (B0) and full power and full up Calypso climbed at an 85 degree angle and wanted to roll to the left. After landing Dave adjusted the TX elevator angle and on 2nd test flight the adjustment worked perfect with a 80 degree pitch but without any roll. To test out position B1 “intermediate” I saw no limits for pitch or roll. With power off I pushed down elevator and she went into a vertical dive but I could not pull out with up elevator. It was as if the elevator was lost or locked out. At the crash sight we collected pieces and at the pit table both elevator and rudder servos worked fine in B0 and B2. We decided not to experiment with further B1 testing. The Calypso was CA glued and reshaped back together for further testing. The motor works but the spinner and SMART battery can’t ge used due to impact damage. I ordered a 637T open stock to be programmed by Horizon for the Air Tractor program to test in a Test plane.
To be continued.
Posted by VicT | Mar 21, 2020 @ 11:15 PM | 4,469 Views
My elevator servo did not work on my pre flight. I thought I would have to replace the elevator servo so removed the left half of the fin area to inspect. In hindsight I should have looked first at the receiver connector and then any secondary connector before the cables enter the reinforcement tube. It was a loose connector! While I was in the area shortened servo cables making the area less cramped and with less weight.

I have a Heron fuselage that comes in two halves. I wont glue the two together but use clear packing tape so if inspection or repairs are needed I will slit the tape, open the fuse and troubleshoot, fix, then join the fuselage haves together with 1/2” wide clear tape along the seem.
Posted by VicT | Mar 20, 2020 @ 11:39 PM | 6,839 Views
I had total electrical failure when the male metal prongs lost contact. It happened 2.5 minutes into the flight while on a power off approach to a go around. At 10 ft I advanced power and there was no power and no control. Fortunately the FMS T28 glided onto the grass with gear and flaps up. It was a maiden flight and an inner gear door broke away as it failed to retract after takeoff. When arriving at the scene the AR636 had no power but the balance plug showed 45% remaining. The ESC SMART fan was not on.

When the IC5 battery connector was held (with 2 hands and with considerable force to disconnect) power returned to the receiver! Subsequent movement revealed intermittent power. When the connector was inspected the male plug’s slots were opened with a small knife to improve contact with the female brass tube. Subsequent wiggling of the IC5 connector indicated positive contact with no loss of power.

A second flight was completed with no loss of power.

Back home I took apart an XT 90 male and female connector. The IC5 and XT90 have different plastic bodies but similar brass gold flashed male and female parts. After removing the male and female parts I made a tool to check contact and to increase the male’s circumference for better contact with the female tube part. I used a piece of music wire and tapered the end to insert into the male connector to spread the slots apart. I drilled a hole in the end of the female tube to make it easier to remove from the male end after checking the tight fit.

The plastic bodies of our various connectors indicate that sufficient contact is present to prevent slippage but not necessarily the contact pressure of the internal brass parts that are more important. I will be cutting the outer plastic bodies to relieve plastic contact and will be using this tool to increase metal contact and insure power is not lost.
Posted by VicT | Mar 15, 2020 @ 06:02 AM | 6,758 Views
I was asked to maiden a UMX Timber at the club field. Winds were 15-20 with gusts so I called the 3 local indoor basketball courts to see if they were “open”. All were in use so I found a stand of trees about 50-60 ft high and used the “wind shadow” to maiden and trim out . Beyond the wind shadow vertical shear made flying nearly impossible and that’s where SAFE really helps maintain control and helps in getting the model down to the ground before crashing or getting lost downwind.

Two days later I stumbled upon the release of the UMX Turbo Timber and ordered her! When I maidened mine inside a local indoor court I hit a padded wall and separated the nose! OH Well! With tape and FoamTac the cracks are hardly noticeable. At partial power she flys slow with full flaps with down elevator put in the transmitter flap menu. In System Setup I Select D as having 3 flight modes. On the Trim menu I change Normal to flight mode. This allows 3 different elevator trim settings for the 3 different flap settings (“flaps up”, “takeoff flaps”, “landing flaps”). After setting partial power with full flaps I use my left thumb on the motor trim switch (Cross trim makes it elevator trim) to fine tune pitch. This works with SAFE On or Off.
Posted by VicT | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:22 PM | 7,832 Views
From post 3645 in the Heron thread

I swapped out an Axi 2828/10 1200 KV motor with 10/7 blades on 3S for the Gliderdrive that will eventually go into a more slender nose. I have some vintage Mark Allen thermal duration designs with lead in the nose that would be perfect for this out-runner in a can.

I used Ecalc to find a prop using a 4 S pack and the Jeti 40 amp ESC. A China Hobby 1500 4S 100C drone pack just fits in the Heron. The AR 636 SAFE receiver programmed for the Spitfire is under the wing.

Ecalc theory data shows max level speed of 63 mph and 29 mph for vertical climb speed for a 11.5x7 Aeronaut Carbon folder.

Wattmeter showed a little less amps and watts with this old 4S pack.


41 amps static...inflight unloading expected. Recommended max is 45
535 watts. recommended max is 830

I had to add about 21 grams of tail weight to the Heron, tail (under the rudder) which brought the ready to fly weight up to 56.9 oz or 3.55lb or 150W/pound. I used up 75% capacity for 5-10 second vertical climbs over a 10 min flight and pack finished up at 3.8 volts for storage. No heat issues with this setup.
Posted by VicT | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:16 PM | 7,269 Views
From post 3645 in the Heron thread

I swapped out an Axi 2828/10 1200 KV motor with 10/7 blades on 3S for the Gliderdrive that will eventually go into a more slender nose. I have some vintage Mark Allen thermal duration designs with lead in the nose that would be perfect for this out-runner in a can.

I used Ecalc to find a prop using a 4 S pack and the Jeti 40 amp ESC. A China Hobby 1500 4S 100C drone pack just fits in the Heron. The AR 636 SAFE receiver programmed for the Spitfire is under the wing.

Ecalc theory data shows max level speed of 63 mph and 29 mph for vertical climb speed for a 11.5x7 Aeronaut Carbon folder.

Wattmeter showed a little less amps and watts with this old 4S pack.


41 amps static...inflight unloading expected.
535 watts

I had to add about 21 grams of tail weight to the Heron, tail (under the rudder) which brought the ready to fly weight up to 56.9 oz or 3.55lb or 150W/pound. I used up 75% capacity for 5-10 second vertical climbs over a 10 min flight and pack finished up at 3.8 volts for storage. No heat issues with this setup.
Posted by VicT | Mar 08, 2020 @ 11:16 PM | 7,841 Views
The UMX Radian has been hitting the gym floors and walls and to reduce wear and tear the wing is not bolted to the fuselage. Glue and tape have been used to repair and reinforce the wing and to secure the wing to the fuselage. The fixed flaps slow the Radian down but with full power the Radian can loop with out hitting the ceiling structure or the floor. But sometimes she hits the floor and repairs are required.

To increase the strength of the wing’s center section a brass tube spar is used to carry the loads between the left and right wing panels. A 5/32” O.D. X 2” long brass tube is a few thousands thinner than the wing section just aft of the carbon fiber stiffener rod. A through slot 5/32 x 2 “ long was cut using a small box cutter and straight edge. The 2” long tube was cut into 2 pieces 1” long and the wing was cut in two along the centerline. The plastic bolt fixture was removed. To join the left and right spar tube a 1” x1/8” brass tube is glued to the right wing panel spar tube.

Four pieces of 1” x 1/2” Lightweight fiberglass cloth laminates the spar tubes to the top and bottom of the left and right wing panels. The clear factory tape was removed and lightly sanded with 220 grit. FoamTac glue was used to laminate the cloth to the foam wing. Brass tubes weigh 2.75 grams. A final weight gain will be measured with the ready to fly wing. A Dremel and cut off wheel was used to cut and de bur the tube. The 12” long tube was purchased from Phils Hobby Shop.
Posted by VicT | Mar 07, 2020 @ 11:22 PM | 9,146 Views
Upgrades to old Phoenix PC21
The ESC and Castle 10 amp BEC were replaced with an Aerostar 80 Amp RVS reversible ESC. A Castle CapPack was soldered inline to reduce the risk of ripple voltage to the ESC. In case of total drive battery, wire, or connector failure a 2S LiFe pack will take over when drive pack voltage falls below 4.8 volts.
The fixed landing gear blocks were loose from cracked wood grain and will be replaced with ply wood.
Posted by VicT | Mar 07, 2020 @ 04:23 PM | 7,380 Views
I recently measured my SR22 with the stock motor and ST 11/7 3 bladed prop. Using a 3S 4000 15C Graphene pack I got:
44 amps and 483 watts. With a 1500 4S 100C China Hobby pack I got:
37 amps and 478 watts.

I waited about a minute and tried it again and measured voltage at 15.4 Volts and over 500 watts. The motor got hot and I stopped testing.

If I were to go 4S I would go to a smaller prop and for more speed a 2 blade. I did this for my original Timber and using a 10/5 she is faster on 4S and the motor does not get hot.

If going to a smaller 3 bladed prop and spinner is not desired then I would suggest the motor, prop, and 5 bladed prop from the EC1500. This lower KV motor was designed to work on 3 or 4S. I purchased the motor and I converted the Eflight AT6 Texan to this motor and stock 12” black prop. Lots more power and speed on 4S.

I use an Aerostar 60 amp RVS reversing ESC on my SR22. After touch down I use my C switch and pull it down to the C2 position and the motor goes into reverse to slow me down and stop on the runway. Here is a pic of what the nose looks like with the EC1500 5 bladed prop.
ImagesView all Images in thread
Name: 84424D1D-EAA0-4026-978C-B2A31EEFAD3B.jpg
Views: 1
Size: 3.43 MB
Description: Aerostar 60 amp RVS, 4000 3S 15C Graphene, and wattmeter; Views: 1

Aerostar 60 amp RVS, 4000 3S 15C Graphene, and wattmeter; Name: 7481F6FE-242E-4A50-8936-B2283C6C2D0B.jpeg
Views: 1
Size: 2.36 MB
Description: EC1500 5 bladed prop temporarily mounted on the nose of the SR22. Use the EC1500 motor for 3 or 4S operation. Views: 1

EC1500 5 bladed prop temporarily mounted on the nose of the SR22. Use the EC1500 motor for 3 or 4S operation.
Posted by VicT | Feb 17, 2020 @ 01:12 AM | 2,038 Views
I flew a few yrs ago outside with landing gear removed for maximum speed. Now I’d like to fly in the gym much slower. I made fixed non moveable flaps for the UMX Radian so I will be doing the same for the Aero C (AC).

I used cardboard and tape for the prototype flaps. After experimenting with fixed angles I will finalize by removing the temporary cardboard flaps and cutting the flaps into the wing. They will be hinged and be locked up for outdoor fast flying and locked down for inside slow flying.
Posted by VicT | Feb 02, 2020 @ 10:51 PM | 4,581 Views
My AT6 is pretty worn out and I recently saw play between the rear bearing and plastic bell housing when moving the prop end. Most likely the cause was over 100 flights mostly on 3S. Time to replace the $54.99 PKZ5116 15 BL 950Kv motor with a more efficient and robust all metal motor. I have a used Eflite Commander motor 900 KV motor that is all metal, larger and a little heavier that should work with 3 or 4 S. I will be test flying and measuring current and watts with an APC 12x6 prop.

The plane was used primarily for half throttle training on different 3S packs where flight times extended out to 20-30 minutes as the Texan has nice flaps and drag reducing retract gear. There were a few times she tip stalled when power was reduced to idle and airspeed decayed. My 93 yr old student loved flying the Texan but was not as forgiving as the E-flite 1.3m Valiant also used for training. In hindsight it’s better to complete training in a simple model (like the Valiant) before going on to more complex models. And if you fly the Texan like the Valiant you will see more tip stalls and crashes.

The EC1500 motor mount was swapped out for the stock motor mount and then mounted to the white plastic firewall using the stock sheet metal screws. A standard prop adapter/ collet was used to mount a spinner and 12/6 APC prop. No spacers were needed.

A 4S 3200 40 C Kinexsis pack was amp metered at 27 amps and 413 watts. Using an estimated 60 oz or 3.75 lb flying weight this works out to...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Jan 29, 2020 @ 03:18 PM | 4,641 Views
If one wants to program their AR636 receiver in the aircraft with servos connected by connecting the laptop Windows PC and USB cable to the receiver bind port:

Power will go from PC to receiver but what other issues are there?

Must receiver be level before power up?
Will power to the servos cause any issue?
Posted by VicT | Jan 23, 2020 @ 04:51 PM | 7,317 Views
I got to program a DX6 and maiden a clubmember’s new Somethin Extra. With the Rimfire 46 and 12/6 prop and 5S she goes vertical and rolls fast and symmetrical. Nice big loops and knife edges OK. Power off glide is long and faster than flapped models but is OK if you have the landing space. No aileron to rudder mix is needed. She needed just a little aileron and rudder trim then I set up wireless buddy box training for the owner. After about 5 minutes we ended up with ailerons on 30 percent. He has been used to flying an Eflite Commander with SAFE On. An AR 636 programmed to the Extra 300 3D specs will replace the antenna less AR620 receiver. My 4 ch version works great with RSSI telemetry but I could not get his to work and Horizon Hobby Technical phone support did not work.

The battery holder and prop spinner was not used. When I put the spinner on there was vibration at half power so it was removed. An Aluminum will be searched for. The 5S had 35 percent remaining after 3 flights so I figure it’s good for at least 9 minutes. More buddy box flying for familiarization is planned. Owner is still getting used to electric over glow power. Anyone recommend an under $100 sound system?
Posted by VicT | Jan 19, 2020 @ 05:54 AM | 7,135 Views
I removed the landing gear on my TT to compare power off glide performance and was amazed at the difference both at high and low speed. With a folding prop and ESC programmed for brake there is no windmilling drag and no risk of prop damage during grass belly landings. My favorite foamy motorglider is the Multiplex Heron and it outperforms the TT. This mod is a compromise but can be usefull when soaring over hills or treelines or when landing on soft sand .
Posted by VicT | Dec 27, 2019 @ 09:51 AM | 1,862 Views
It was 2 weeks before Christmas and chilly with winds 20 gusting to 25 so I decided to introduce my friend to indoor flying. At the local community center I asked the receptionist if we could use an “Open Gym” to fly. I showed her my Night Vapor box and after showing my drivers license, signing a waiver, and paying $1 she OK’d me to use the larger of 2 gyms. I sat down at the bleachers mid field and my friend wheeled in his heavy duty walker equipped with 2 UMX Radians, TX box, and a tool box. I got my Night Vapor trimmed out on a DX9 TX and then my friend’s UMX Radian. After a few partial power circles I used max power to demonstrate a few high speed (20 mph?) pylon turns. My friend was eager to try his hand but flying slow at partial power and constant turning in a confined space was foreign to his outside style of flying. I convinced him to try fixed flaps to help slow down.

Using a steel ruler and a new box cutter I estimated what would be a good hinge line for the flaps. Starting a little way out from the fuselage I marked with a pen the point where I would start my cut. Because the wing has curved polyhedral I went out to where the curve starts and started cutting the outer flap end. Setting the blade depth to about 90 percent of the flap thickness I made a few shallow cuts on the top of the wing. I completed the foam hinge line back to the fuselage flap end. I then bent the flap down about 10-15 degrees and secured this angle with some...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Dec 21, 2019 @ 11:57 PM | 4,690 Views
At the Largo club I bought a used Mystique 2.9 meter with ailerons, flaps, and an Eflite 25 motor. Joe said he had plenty of flights but he was having a hard time seeing her. He removed his Futaba RX and I installed an AR636 RX from a Commander. I an using the sailplane type menus with motor on the throttle stick and flight modes on the throttle stick and on the D flap switch. Each flight mode can have different aileron, rudder, and elevator trim. Since elevator trim is used more frequently I have cross trim selected. In System setup, Preflight Checklist I have typed “Cross trims” as a reminder.
Flaps are on a Y cable to RX ch 5 Flaps on D switch. A Turnigy reverser is in line to the left flap because that servo is positioned in the wing pocket the same as the right flap. Right Ail is plugged into RX ch2 and the left Ail is plugged into ch 6. The DX9 uses a copied program from my Heron and though only the right aileron levels the wings when SAFE Self Level is turned on (via DX9 switch B ch 7.....the Heron flys great with SAFE ON or Off. I removed the prop and clevis from flap and aileron horns to prevent jamming. I bound to a new model and Self Level worked on B switch so I rebound to the copied Heron program and renamed it Mystique 2.9. Joe had both ailerons and flaps on Y cables so could not adjust aileron camber. I used seperate aileron channels for crow and thermal aileron camber. The flaps are on a Y cable and are on the 3 position D switch (0 neutral, 1 thermal and 2 landing flaps. Flite modes are assigned to the D switch and aileron camber uses the D switch to activate. The elevator required a reverser for proper self level. Only the flaps were reversed via the TX menu. The AR636 Commander RYX is secured with 3M Dual Lock for easy mounting and removal and receiver plugs face aft.
Posted by VicT | Nov 30, 2019 @ 10:36 PM | 2,861 Views
I have made wing covers from the aluminized windshield covers from Walmart. However this material was posted in the Allusive thread.

It’s Reflectix Radiant Barrier Double Reflective Insulation from Home Depot. It’s $24 for 24 in. X 25 ft. I used clear packing tape and orange Duct tape for the seems.
Posted by VicT | Nov 28, 2019 @ 01:09 AM | 3,864 Views
The aileron inner end has a width/chord of 50 mm so I decided to have a constant 50 mm flap chord from the aileron to the fuselage. I used a long straight edge/ruler and placed painters tape “loops” on the bottom to keep the ruler from slipping. Using a new large box cutter I made perpendicular cuts along the ruler’s edge. The 1/16 inch balsa was easy to cut through but the root end had hardwood and I used Zone saw for that. After separation I used a sanding block to lightly sand away any imperfections in my cut. I then used my straight edge to cut away the top of the flap for reflex. Again I used the sanding block to lightly sand away any imperfections.

I used 1/64 inch thick plywood to face the flaps and wing. I cut 4 lengths of ply a little wider than the faces and made sure the bottom hinge edges were straight and true. I used blue painters tape to hinge the facing on to the bottom of the flap. I then used 5 minute epoxy mixed on to scrap paper before smearing it on to the plywood. After closing up the hinged plywood facing I laid it on its edge on my cutting board and cut away the overlapping ply with my box cutter. I then used painters tape to keep the facing up against the white foam and balsa wing sheeting. Total time to cut and face the flaps and wing was about 2 hours.

After leaving the epoxy to harden overnight the next morning I removed all of he blue painters tape that was keeping the ply facing against the balsa wing sheeting. About 5 %...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Nov 27, 2019 @ 01:13 AM | 4,366 Views
This technique can be used on any fiberglass or CF canopy (like the Allusive CF canopy.

The Allusive does not have any intake vents other than the firewall and has no exhaust vents. Other owners have used the aluminum turbo spinner to cool off the motor shaft and motor. Others have used spoons or scoops that stick out away from the fuselage. This technique uses intake and exhaust cutouts.

I used blue painters tape and cut out 2 intake and 2 exhaust templates. There is more exhaust area to allow for low pressure movement of hot air inside the canopy area where my ESC and battery are located. Air entering the turbo spinner hole and firewall holes can exit thru the exhaust vents.

I positioned the blue tape templates so that the folding prop would not interfere with the vent openings or the CF hold down strip under the canopy. The canopy sill was used as a guide to place the blue tape templates. Using a diamond rotary wheel on my Dremmel I cut along the edge of the blue painters tape as shown.

Using 1/16” plywood I cut out 8 vent sides for the 4 vents. After wedging the vents open with scrap plywood I used CA kicker and medium CA to glue the ply pieces to each vent. After they were dry and secure I cut away excess wood and then used regular Gorrilla glue to reinforce the ply pieces to the CF canopy....Continue Reading