Posted by AGFrc Nicole | Mar 15, 2020 @ 09:56 PM | 11,107 Views
Some people are Crazy about the bigger toys, and some people are the big fan of micro toys.

Here we come with our sweetie micro digital servo for your mini builds. It is digital signal mode which is more reliable than analog.

It is perfectly for your Mini Z car, and it can make with JR or JST connector for your needs when connecting with the gyro.

We have just released five types of mirco servo as below:

C017CLS (Digital Servo)
Operating Voltage: 3.6V-4.2V
Operating Speed:0.070sec/ 60ー@ 3.7V
Operating Speed:0.050sec/60ー @ 4.2V
Stall Torque: 65 g-cm (0.9 oz-in) @ 3.7V
Stall Torque: 75 g-cm (1.0 oz-in)@ 4.2V
Gear: Plastic Motor:CL
Size: 13.5*6.2*16.0mm Weight: 1.7g


C02CLS (Digital Servo)
Operating Voltage: 3.6V-4.2V
Operating Speed:0.070sec/ 60ー@ 3.7V
Operating Speed:0.060sec/60ー @ 4.2V
Stall Torque: 95 g-cm (1.3 oz-in) @ 3.7V
Stall Torque: 110 g-cm (1.5 oz-in)@ 4.2V
Gear: Plastic Motor:CL
Size: 16.0*8.2*14.5mm Weight: 2.2g

C037CLS (Digital Servo)
Operating Voltage: 3.6V ~ 6.0V
Operating Speed:0.080sec/ 60ー@ 4.2V
Operating Speed:0.060sec/60ー @ 5.0V
Stall Torque: 450 g-cm (6.2 oz-in) @ 4.2V
Stall Torque: 550 g-cm (7.6 oz-in)@ 5.0V
Gear: Plastic Motor:CL
Size: 20.0*8.5*17.3mm Weight:3.7g

C04CLS (Digital Servo)
Operating Voltage: 3.6V ~ 6.0V
Operating Speed:0.090sec/ 60ー@ 4.2V
Operating Speed:0.070sec/60ー @ 5.0V
Stall Torque: 600 g-cm (8.3 oz-in) @ 4.2V
Stall Torque: 750 g-cm (10.4 oz-in)@ 5.0V
Gear: Plastic Motor:CL
Size: 20.2*8.5*19.3mm Weight:4.3g

C05CLS (Digital Servo)
Operating Voltage: 3.6V ~ 6.5V
Operating Speed:0.085sec/ 60ー@ 4.8V
Operating Speed:0.075sec/60ー @ 6.0V
Stall Torque: 0.9 kg-cm (12.5 oz-in) @ 4.8V
Stall Torque: 1.0 kg-cm (13.9 oz-in)@ 6.0V
Gear: Plastic Motor:CL
Size: 21.3*11.5*17.6mm Weight:6.2g

Welcome to email at [email protected] if you need more info or any inquiry of servo.
Posted by Cox PT-19 | Mar 15, 2020 @ 08:48 PM | 11,474 Views
The Navigator and Skylark are now ready for their white base coats, but need some less blush-worthy weather before I point a paint gun at them.

The Q-Tee is ready but for a little cosmetic stuff, which I wasn't in the mood for, so the Swap Meet Rescue Veco "Brave" became my first test of the doctor's exam table paper Andrew sent me a while back (thanks again Andrew!).

The paper's fibers don't seem to be quite as strong as my original silkspan, but it held together enough for me to dip it in water and blot it on some paper towels before doping it to the Brave's wing. It looks pretty good, so now, so I'm gonna gamble a couple coats of Brodak clear to see how it works.

It's builder had covered it with silkspan that had gone brittle with age, and also had done some filling work on it's forward fuselage. I intend just to clear-coat the bare wood (with sanding between coats) 'till I get a shine, then go with some base orange, with black & white trim. That's the plan at the moment......Continue Reading
Posted by UpNup | Mar 15, 2020 @ 08:05 PM | 10,954 Views
Took the opportunity to design a new cowl and vent the Griffin.

The canopy is now a full sleeker cowl that stretches from the front to up and over the wing.

Added a vent and glued in a spoon half for a scoop. Opened up a hole in the rear of the main cabin that was 2-3 times bigger than the opening in the glider痴 chin.
Posted by Tokyo_Dom | Mar 15, 2020 @ 07:08 PM | 9,531 Views
Thought i would create a bit of a record of my journey into this hobby. Dont really have any friends to share this with (they all look at me funny when i say i'm into flying quads)

About me: 41yrs old. with two little kids (1 and 2yrs old). Australian, living in Japan in a typical little apartment. Back when i was 12 or so (early 90s, in Australia) i got into model planes, control line, free flyer and of course RC. Back then i desperately wanted to build a tiny little RC plane, 12" wingspan or less like the free flyers i had been building. But technology wasnt there (lightest servos were 20g, and expensive!). And after a year or two of flying and building all sorts of planes, puberty hit and I took more interest in female models than balsa models.

Fast forward to Christmas 2019, i saw a palm sized quad on sale for $15 while on a holiday in Aust and bought it for giggles (Eachine E010S clone). I had missed the quad 'boom' when DJI started consumerizing the hobby. Friends had them but they were never much fun being all automated. But i had a ball with this little thing. No camera just LOS (prev RC plane experience so that was fine). Racing around the house, letting my kids chase it and landing it in their hands etc. This is the kind of thing i can enjoy with them!

Anyway enough about me... onto my tiny whoops
Posted by skyracer068 | Mar 15, 2020 @ 06:26 PM | 9,608 Views
I had a Bonanza when they were first available. It augured in a year after. Well, I致e been lucky to piece one together. This one will be getting a different scheme. Looking forward to flying this one since that last one flew extremely well.

The maiden went better than I expected. It flys just as good as I remember. What a perfect airplane for light aerobatics.
Posted by GBLynden | Mar 15, 2020 @ 04:20 PM | 9,134 Views
This video features a flight with Wild Bill's H-King TL2000 RC Plane That Comes With Floats From HobbyKing.

Wild Bill's H-King TL2000 RC Plane That Comes With Floats From HobbyKing (4 min 24 sec)

Posted by edwen303 | Mar 15, 2020 @ 02:30 PM | 8,917 Views
This is the quick and rough description. Might detail the info once COVID19 panic passed, if I am still around
Here are the short video showing both Low voltage HK cluster and 12V LED ring:

The single 70mm Cougar is with HK orange color LED with resistor, 90mm F-18 with bifurcated exhaust running two LED rings from banggood or amazon.
EDF afterburner test. Part 1 (0 min 15 sec)


No more LED afterburner from vendors. Easy to make it yourself. Cost less than $5 if choose the listed item, less than 30 min work.

All you need are:
...Continue Reading
Posted by Gravythe Clown | Mar 15, 2020 @ 01:22 PM | 7,204 Views
So I知 not sure who made the fuselage but I got it off ebay for a fair price knowing I知 going to have to mod the heck out of it.

So for the mechanics I have a old Align trex mashup I bought used from a LHS that was closing down a couple years back.

So after some daydreaming I came up with an idea on the tail Assemble. So right now I知 in the process of proofing it. My man goal was to use as many stick parts as possible and very few made parts.
So here is my progress so far.
I知 using two complete torque tube setups. One of the frame housings is used to connect the autorotation gear to the tail gear assembly. I used a 3mm Id x 4mm od steak shaft, two 4mm id x 6mm od bearings and one 4mm id universal joint.

On the tail rider parts I知 using three tail gear assembles. One in the boom, then two on the riser. I知 going to make two (left and right side) come toe plates and have a transition gear inbetween the two booms. This will allow me to get what ever angle I need for the riser.

Also the reason for the universal joint is because I want the main head angled forward like the real Apache. So far my make shift parts are proving a functional concept. I will eventually have all the new brace plates cut out of CF plate.

I need to start working on the cascading tail rotor, which will match nicely with my 4 blade floating head. Last thing I need to buy is a new motor with a lower kv.

I will have some flex in the main gear and add a caster tail wheel.

This...Continue Reading
Posted by jmxp69 | Mar 15, 2020 @ 09:19 AM | 6,839 Views
Completed the maiden of the Skylark-S. In the video, I had a 10x6APC prop on the plane. After the maiden I switched to the supplied 9x6SF. I couldn't perceive a meaningful difference between the two in flight.

After watching the maiden and taking a day to think about it, I think the winning combo is to order the kit version, get some MG90 9g servos, a ZTW or Hobbyeagle 40a ESC, and a Leopard 2835 1350kv with a 9x6 , 9x7, or 10x5 prop. I'm ordering that motor for the plane now. If you can tolerate some minor imperfections in the paint and tweak the wings/gear as I showed in the build video, you get a competent plane for about $85-$90 factoring in additional shipping charges for motor/esc/servos.

CG is 95mm in this video.

Skylark F3A RC Plane Maiden Flight (8 min 45 sec)

Posted by GroundControlRC | Mar 15, 2020 @ 08:51 AM | 6,523 Views


Test Flight - FlyBear FX816 P-38 Lightning Warbird Bomber RTF - MOD #3 Main Wing Spar

Here is a link to the Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CmS7pre6yY

FlyBear FX816 P38 RTF
https://www.banggood.com/custlink/Gv3DqD4yON

Banggood GCRC
https://www.banggood.com/custlink/GmDmQ1nVkO

I really have a lot of fun with My FlyBear 2CH Planes.
I have Reviewed the FlyBear Red Baron Biplane, F-16, SU-35, and now the P-38 ;-)
All the FlyBear Planes I've reviewed so far required just a bit of Nose Weight to get them flying extremely well.
I was not so fortunate with this FlyBear Plane.

This Plane has some issues as follows:

#1 During the 1st Throttle Up one of the Props flew off ;-)
This was an easy fix.

#2 The Plane wanted to dramatically Nose UP when applying Throttle ;-)
Another fairly easy fix.

#3 The Plane has no Right Turn Authority at all ;-(
Not such an easy fix.

I have performed the MOD on the Motor Alignment, Fuselage Booms Alignment, Main Wing Spar Installation, and it is now ready for it's 3rd MOD Test Flight!

#GroundControlRC #GlueAndFly #ScratchBuildPlanes #FlyBear #FX816 #P38

You Can Help Support Us By Using Our Affiliate Link To The Product Below. A small commission (At No Cost To You) helps us buy more items to review.

FlyBear FX816 P38 RTF
https://www.banggood.com/custlink/Gv3DqD4yON

The Dimensions of the Stock LIPO is: 33mm x 21mm x 8mm
These LIPOs should work but I cannot confirm! Be warned!

5PCS 3.7V 300mAh Lipo Battery Set for H8 H22 Eachine H8 Mini RC Quadcopter
https://www.banggood.com/5PCS-3_7V-3...47791920140372

5PCS 3.7V 300mAh 25C Lipo Battery Charger Set for H8 H22 Eachine H8 mini RC Quadcopter
https://www.banggood.com/5PCS-3_7V-3...47791920140372


See you in the Air!

Build, Fly, Crash, Repair, Rinse & Repeat!

Ground Control RC Glue & Fly Series Scratch-Build Planes

See Us On Youtube | Patreon | RCGroups

https://www.youtube.com/c/GroundControlRC
https://www.patreon.com/groundcontrolrc
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=754189
Posted by VicT | Mar 15, 2020 @ 06:02 AM | 6,736 Views
I was asked to maiden a UMX Timber at the club field. Winds were 15-20 with gusts so I called the 3 local indoor basketball courts to see if they were 登pen. All were in use so I found a stand of trees about 50-60 ft high and used the 努ind shadow to maiden and trim out . Beyond the wind shadow vertical shear made flying nearly impossible and that痴 where SAFE really helps maintain control and helps in getting the model down to the ground before crashing or getting lost downwind.

Two days later I stumbled upon the release of the UMX Turbo Timber and ordered her! When I maidened mine inside a local indoor court I hit a padded wall and separated the nose! OH Well! With tape and FoamTac the cracks are hardly noticeable. At partial power she flys slow with full flaps with down elevator put in the transmitter flap menu. In System Setup I Select D as having 3 flight modes. On the Trim menu I change Normal to flight mode. This allows 3 different elevator trim settings for the 3 different flap settings (吐laps up, 鍍akeoff flaps, 斗anding flaps). After setting partial power with full flaps I use my left thumb on the motor trim switch (Cross trim makes it elevator trim) to fine tune pitch. This works with SAFE On or Off.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:51 PM | 7,770 Views
What a lion actually looks like with his dog.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:48 PM | 7,742 Views
Was hoping it just cracked acrylic, but the lunchbox cracked too. Tried separating threadlock from plastic with a washer, but the threadlock most have gone right through. Just a matter of applying threadlock after tightening the nut.


There should be enough friction from the washer to keep it together, but if it ever has to be taken apart, it's going to need a reinforcing layer of teflon. The chassis is extremely rare on ebay or a $130 tag, in today's money.
Posted by VicT | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:22 PM | 7,811 Views
From post 3645 in the Heron thread

I swapped out an Axi 2828/10 1200 KV motor with 10/7 blades on 3S for the Gliderdrive that will eventually go into a more slender nose. I have some vintage Mark Allen thermal duration designs with lead in the nose that would be perfect for this out-runner in a can.

I used Ecalc to find a prop using a 4 S pack and the Jeti 40 amp ESC. A China Hobby 1500 4S 100C drone pack just fits in the Heron. The AR 636 SAFE receiver programmed for the Spitfire is under the wing.

Ecalc theory data shows max level speed of 63 mph and 29 mph for vertical climb speed for a 11.5x7 Aeronaut Carbon folder.

Wattmeter showed a little less amps and watts with this old 4S pack.


41 amps static...inflight unloading expected. Recommended max is 45
535 watts. recommended max is 830

I had to add about 21 grams of tail weight to the Heron, tail (under the rudder) which brought the ready to fly weight up to 56.9 oz or 3.55lb or 150W/pound. I used up 75% capacity for 5-10 second vertical climbs over a 10 min flight and pack finished up at 3.8 volts for storage. No heat issues with this setup.
Posted by VicT | Mar 14, 2020 @ 10:16 PM | 7,246 Views
From post 3645 in the Heron thread

I swapped out an Axi 2828/10 1200 KV motor with 10/7 blades on 3S for the Gliderdrive that will eventually go into a more slender nose. I have some vintage Mark Allen thermal duration designs with lead in the nose that would be perfect for this out-runner in a can.

I used Ecalc to find a prop using a 4 S pack and the Jeti 40 amp ESC. A China Hobby 1500 4S 100C drone pack just fits in the Heron. The AR 636 SAFE receiver programmed for the Spitfire is under the wing.

Ecalc theory data shows max level speed of 63 mph and 29 mph for vertical climb speed for a 11.5x7 Aeronaut Carbon folder.

Wattmeter showed a little less amps and watts with this old 4S pack.


41 amps static...inflight unloading expected.
535 watts

I had to add about 21 grams of tail weight to the Heron, tail (under the rudder) which brought the ready to fly weight up to 56.9 oz or 3.55lb or 150W/pound. I used up 75% capacity for 5-10 second vertical climbs over a 10 min flight and pack finished up at 3.8 volts for storage. No heat issues with this setup.
Posted by BDOG1 | Mar 14, 2020 @ 09:26 PM | 6,812 Views
Today found me on the hill with friends , temps in the mid 30's and predicted WNW winds of 12mph once again exceeding the prediction with actual measured levels at 15 to 20 with higher gusts .

I put the Acacia up first as the wind was supposed to diminish as the day went on .
The launch was a non event {Thank You Lynn } , once trimmed She really rewarded smooth flying and keeping the energy up .
I did not know if a ship this heavy {80oz} would fly on our hill in our conditions but thought that I could at least check the trim ,I wound up with a bit of up elevator {maybe a bit nose heavy } and if allowed to raise its nose and slow down during a turn it took some time to pick speed back up and the controls to get crisp again .
After zinging around for a while I dropped the flaps to see if I could slow it down ,it raised the nose and came to a stop like a dog on a short leash ,I quickly put them back up and dropped the nose to get some air speed but was now behind the hill going down wind over a very bad spot.
She flicked on me when I attempted to turn ,saved it and she flicked again . I was able to flatten her out making a less than Graceful arrival at the bottom of the hill on the back side with no damage .
Inspection revealed that the left flap servo has a bunch of slop {broken gears ? } I will have to pull it and replace .

After that excitement ,flying all the other ships was low stress and relaxing

Arrived at 11:00 came down after 4:00
Another good day - I will sleep well tonight
Posted by UpNup | Mar 14, 2020 @ 03:45 PM | 7,509 Views
Go here to read through my Build Log in digested form. My blog below has day to day details.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ffin-Build-Log
Posted by burkefj | Mar 14, 2020 @ 01:09 PM | 7,345 Views
I built two versions of this, a silver one and a white one(to save a bit of weight) the white shows off the details better even if it isn't correct to the original, I still like it. Wing is upsized of course for glide and wingtips are downsized enough to not drag on the ground first when landing.

Here's a video of the Silver version flying...

R/C Fireball XL-5 Rocket glider in color flying on Aerotech E-6 24mm motor (2 min 3 sec)


Fireball XL5 R/C Rocket glider from Dynasoar Rocketry (2 min 42 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 14, 2020 @ 12:23 PM | 7,057 Views
Today I've managed to lay down most of the final paint. It's starting to look quite awesome if I may say so It still needs some touching up and I still have to paint all the black parts. Also, I've been pondering how to utilize a PC Steeringwheel and create working pedals. Steering is easy, just replace the potentiometer of the radio with an extended potentiometer from the PC-Steeringwheel. As most potentiometers of radios work as voltage dividers, the actual Ohms shouldn't matter too much. ...But how to connect a brake and throttle-pedal

I've been thinking how to use both pedals on one radio-channel: throttle-brake-reverse. You can program most car-esc's so that going in reverse starts with braking, and then applying brakes again reverses the car. Practically you do this with one channel. So I came up with the luminous idea of connecting the potentiometer of the brake-pedal to the potentiometer of the throttle-pedal. BUT, the brake-pedal-potentiometer must be of half the resistance of the throttle-pedal-potentiometer. And when the brake-pedal is not pressed ('in rest'), the potentiometer should measure 0 Ohms, thus utilizing the full range of the throttle-pedal-potentiometer when applying throttle, and then when you press the brake pedal, the resistance increases of the brake-pedal-potentiometer, together with 1/2R of the throttle-potentiometer, totaling full range and thus braking. Hit the brake again and the brake-pedal becomes a reverse-pedal.

This works & drives amazing in my brain, but still need to proof this concept in the real world

Hopefully I can order a SCX10 II frame in the next few days. I'll have to make sure the mailman is not quarantined.
Posted by DutchRC | Mar 14, 2020 @ 12:04 PM | 7,126 Views
Halloa

so you might have seen video's from / about the new Runcam 5 Orange pass by.. I thought it would be informative to demonstrate One of it's new features. Not only to show how well the Runcam 5 does in flat colors, but also to show you why you might want to use it..
I have done a demo of the feature before but this time I actually had some sun to make things look a BIT better

Link to the camera: Runcam 5 Orange

at Banggood: Runcam 5 Orange


So.. a short video showing what "flat color profile" is.. and how you CAN use it..
I shot this video in horrible weather, because is especially hard on camera's..

Testing the Runcam 5 Orange on a sunny day :) - 4K 30fps flat color profile (11 min 11 sec)