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Posted by sdelaroq | Jan 13, 2015 @ 03:28 PM | 13,320 Views
The new HiSKY HCP100S has a deadzone around center for the rudder channel. I find this annoying and could get rid of it thanks to a Deviation "Complex Mixer".
Here's the output we want:


As soon as the rudder stick is moved to the left or to the right we want the Tx to transmit a value to "jump" over the deadband.
The following shows a way to achieve this using a complex mixer defined in 3 pages. Note I use a Devo 8S but a similar result can be accomplished with any Walkera Tx that supports the Deviation firmware.
You can get more information about the steps involved in this mini-howto by reading the well written Deviation Documentation.

1) Setup a complex mixer with 3 pages to the RUD channel.
The first page is an EXPO mixer defining a straight curve from -100% to 100%.


2) On page 2 we define a Min/Max mixer that will add its value on positive rudder and subtract the value on negative rudder. The Scale value is the value you want to go directly as soon as you move your stick.
For the HCP100S a value of 8 is good but you may adjust it to your liking.
...Continue Reading
Posted by sdelaroq | Dec 16, 2014 @ 05:26 PM | 4,863 Views
This evening I got my HT-8 behave as it should! I mean I bound (I had to rebound by powering the HCP80 first) it to my HCP80 and no delay, no low resolution servo moves

When reading the HT-8 Manual I noted the working voltage is 5V~12V but the internal battery is 4.20 at max.

I only had to remove the internal battery and power the module from the Tx battery rack:


To do this you only have to dismantle the FUTABA connector from the FUTABA signal cable, plug the Ground and Signal wires in the Ground and Signal wires of the Mini-Jack cable, then the jack goes into the trainer port of the Tx and the FUTABA servo plug in the HT-8. In order to power the HT-8 you then have to plug the red wire of the former FUTABA connector to the + of the battery pack:


I now only have to get the positive from a small hole in the Tx back I will FINALLY enjoy flying my HiSKY birds with a programmable Tx!
Posted by sdelaroq | Nov 30, 2014 @ 05:41 PM | 5,035 Views
I thought about writing a Mini-HowTo replace the tail gears since the first time I had to do it but always postponed it. So here's the time since two 4F200LM's owners need to replace their tail gears.
Here is a great video from someone called Gottlieb 1885 (look at the end of this post if you prefer pictures):
Walkera 4F200LM Tail Gear Fixing Part Removal & Disassembly (9 min 35 sec)


And here are some notes from my own experience:

1) The first time you do this, heat the hex screws and the shaft joiner (with the tip of a soldering iron.) These screw were probably CA'd from the factory and forcing them may make the hex head round.

2) Removing the bearing from the cone gear with a diagonal cutting pliers is really smart. However, doing so while the gear is still fitted on the tail shaft may damage the bearing.
So I always remove the cone gear with the bearing fitted on it from the shaft using my fingers (this may hurt a bit) then use the wire cutter to remove the bearing.

3) Carefully remove any gear dust and teeth from the tail assembly before replacing the gears. Gottlieb 1885 uses a pressured air can but I usually do it using paper towel and a toothpick.

4) When putting the brand new cone gear back on the tail shaft make sure it is fully pushed forward on the shaft

5) When finished, rotating the shaft or the tail should be really smooth. If you feel the gears are there, you better dismantle the assembly and check everything is in...Continue Reading
Posted by sdelaroq | Nov 22, 2014 @ 06:11 PM | 4,479 Views
Today I managed to remove the blade grip bearings of my 4F200LM:
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The bearings are dead, so replacing them was not an option unless I wanted to buy another complete head assembly. The process is quite simple but it took several weeks for me to realize how to do it!
Note: this destroys the bearings, so you have to get some spares if you want to fly the same day

I needed:
  • A 2.5mm aluminium tube
  • A small philips screwdriver that can't be inserted into the tube but can still go through the bearings
  • A hammer
  • A small burin or similar to push the last bearing out
  • Strong pliers

1. Outer bearing (from the whole head perspective)

The idea there is to insert the aluminium tube in the bearing center and lock it from the other side by inserting the screwdriver.
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Insert the tube (I used the hammer because it is a tight fit.) Not too far so you won't grip the inner bearing. There is a collar between the bearings. If you can avoid inserting the aluminium tube on this collar it may be better so you don't waste it.
...Continue Reading
Posted by sdelaroq | Aug 01, 2014 @ 08:53 AM | 4,759 Views
My 4F200LM hit a soft tree branch last saturday. No damage but the main gear is completely stripped! Here's a mini howto explaining the steps to replace it. It took approximately an hour but I would have been a bit quicker by not taking pictures.
(There's a flight video at the bottom of this post)


1. Reaching the Main Gear

We start removing the 4 screws holding the canopy in place
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These screws and the ones that hold the skid dampers have integrated spacers but are not exactly the same. We have to keep them apart so we dont mix them.
...Continue Reading
Posted by sdelaroq | Jul 20, 2014 @ 04:19 PM | 4,789 Views
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Description: Tail Holder Gear Set in package
You just received this bunch of parts and need to assemble them to repair your lovely 4F200LM.

1. Assembly
The first step, inserting the pin that holds the collar on the tail shaft is a bit tricky. I hopefully own some watchmaker tools that helped me a lot!
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Description: Tail shaft, collar and pin

I only had to use the pin holder to insert the pin.
...Continue Reading