I put together a "how to work with micro balloons" video in two parts. I hope you will find these vids helpful.

Part 1 (11 minutes):

Working with Micro Balloons 001, Part one (11 min 1 sec)

Part 2 (8:30 minutes):

Working with Micro Balloons Pt 2 001 (8 min 31 sec)

...Continue Reading

Here are the measurement for the Champ tail feathers in case you are working on your own tail feather design. I hope this helps.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=21086

Mike.

After repairing many helicopter canopies over the years, I'd like to share with you how I repair mine. Every crash is different which requires a different technique. For now, I'm just going to concentrate on fixing cracks and splits in the canopy seeing that this is the most common break.

You will see in a couple of these pics that "you have to do, what you have to do" to get the job done. Ideas are always welcomed

Before you start! I have found that using old (but clean) hankies work great for keeping the canopy aligned while you work on it.

On this break of the MCX canopy, I'll work one end at a time. Basically what I did was "tack" one end of the split with CA. Let it dry. Then I put a small "modelers cast" at the very end of the split. Do this at both ends of the split. Your canopy will never split at those two points. Now you can go ahead and use Scotch tape to join the two modelers tacks.

On my 120SR canopy, it required a more drastic approach as you can see from the picture. I was determined to get it flight ready. Instead of using the traditional modelers cast of tissue and CA, I decided to use Hobbico light weight fiberglass cloth (3/4 oz// HCAR5000) soaked in CA. Folks, I tell ya, she doesn't look pretty but, I will guarantee this,,,...my 120SR canopy will never break at the nose. It turned out better than my wildest imagination.

I hope this helps someone from tossing a canopy out. Oh, BTW, save those broken canopies!!! I will explain about that coming up shortly.

As always, ideas and your input is welcomed.

Click "comments" to view more pictures.

Mike.

Sometimes we all come to the horrible conclusion that your main frame is gone, FUBAR if you will. Not a big deal. Removing everything from your main frame is simple. First, take some pictures. Next, with some 1/4" hobby tape, mark each wire. Everyone has their own preference of marking, so do what's best for you to remember.

OK, everything is off the old frame, marked and pictures taken.

STOP: This is for instructions on the "stock" V4 main frame.

With the new plastic stock main frame in front of you, you'll now want to clean it up. Sand all the slag (or imperfections) smooth. Pay particular attention to a nice smooth area were the motors and servos will mount and also the underside where the motors will screw into. You may have to use an Xacto blade to the screw holes on the underside to insure they seat flush to the frame, otherwise the screw heads may hit the "B" gear. In addition to the normal preparation, I did my 4in1 (brick) reinforcement mod, that is already documented. Also as an extra, I added some J-B Weld 4 minute epoxy to the two front feet. The weakest and most vulnerable.



Contrary to many, I don't use double sided sticky tape to mount my servos. I use Gorilla Super Glue. Some on the bottom of the main frame were the servo would go,,,...position servo in place (always check for fit before CA'ing). Then another few dabs around the out side edge. Don't worry, they will pop off when the time comes. I use an Xacto...Continue Reading

Links to "must do" mods.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=7373

Credits go to: Chris.S. for the "fishing line" mod for pictures and instructions. Instead of mono fishing line, I recommend a braided nylon type of thread. It is more flexible then a short piece of fishing line that will bind your flybar as I have found. For me, it was a cause of TBE.

Thank you : ridgewalker for the "skid" mod pictures and instructions.

Also some hot glue around the wires on the tail. This helps protect the wires in a crash.

Mike.

I have been putting up the Memorial for those who perished on September 11, 2001. I've been doing this since 2002. This year (2011) marks the 10th anniversary of that unforgettable day. For the 10th year anniversary I wanted to do something special, something different.

Please look at the picture carefully and you will see the many significances of that day.

Each year I always placed the torch, 9/11 sign and the crossed American flags.

The addition this year are the red, white and blue flowers. The stack of bricks at the base of the pole represents the destruction. To the left, are nine standing bricks and to the right are 11 standing bricks. The four American flags placed in the ground represent the four flights that went down. In the very center there are nine sets of flowers representing the month of September.

NEVER FORGET !!

As many of you already know the grommets that hold the canopy on for the mcX are nearly impossible to find. Well, here is a quick fix that I know you'll just love. Thanks to a member here on RCG (Jetskeeter) gave me permission to post this idea in my blog. It is very simple and you will NEVER run out of grommets. NEVER!

Jetskeeter recommends the insulation from 22-26 gauge wire. I didn't have any gauge to gauge wire so, it took some time running around the house/cellar looking for the right size. What I came up with is regular wire from a lamp. I cut it to size, used a round tooth pick to help stretch and lube the inside (make sure lube is plastic friendly) of the pieces to be used. And presto! Because of this neat trick I was back in the air. There was no way I was going to fly without a canopy with the "very expensive" 5in1 so vulnerable.
Thanks Jetskeeter

In addition to using this wire insulating material, it is also useful to keep your canopy in place (here it's for my 120SR). To keep it from slipping side to side. Cut 4 pieces about a strong 1/16" of an inch. Lube up a round tooth pick with plastic friendly lube and slip the cut piece onto the tooth pick to lube and stretch. Let it sit for about 15 minutes, remove and quickly maneuver it onto the air frame rod. Now pull the mod ring to the edge and clean the air frame rod with alcohol to remove the lube and prep for the application of LEXEL. It will take some doing on your part....Continue Reading

Blade balancing is easy and should be done to all of your blades before flying. Perfectly balanced blades track better, gives less vibration and best of all, fly beautiful. I'm sure there are other methods of blade balancing but, this is how I do mine.

1) You'll need an extra blade grip that matches the blades you'll be balancing. Two- 4 OZ. Dixie cups. Note the nice thin edge around the bottom of the cup (I did put a black mark on the seem of each cup...coming up). The rest of the tools are a no brainer. "Sponge Bob" cups are optional. I have been told by some (and I have tried it myself) that you can also use full cans of soda or beer. But, in all seriousness, I prefer the Dixie Cups. Refreshments can be consumed when the job is done

2) Clean up the blades by gently sanding the slag off from around the blades. Have a screw handy to check the hole for a good fit.

3) Install the blades on the blade grips and shoot an imaginary line from the two screws to the end of the blade. Tighten. This should be a piece of cake for you long gun shooters. Note in the picture, I used 1/4" modelers tape JUST to show "shooting an imaginary line."

4) Note the blade on the right is heavier. Rotate the blades from end to end to make sure you get the same reading. Now we start sanding the upper side of the heavier blade being careful and mindful of the edges. Keep your strokes even and spread out. Only sand a little at a time. Wipe the sanded area with a damp paper towel in between sandings. WHY? To get rid of the static electricity that will pull that blade toward your wood workbench. Just think of it as rubbing a balloon in your hair or jersey and it will stick to the wall, etc.

And, the results

I hope this helps and as usual all comments are welcomed.

Mike.

Well, I logged in about 10 flights since this modification of the main frame. There has been much discussion in the V4 thread about the mounting of the 4in1. Mostly the inferior holder of the 4in1 located up front. Which led many members believing that the unnecessary shaking, vibration, etc. effected the gyro. One vendor went as far as trying to develop a CF flat stock to fit on the Esky V3 which does not fit on the Esky V4 (this would be the pod and boom mount). This inspired me to create something simple to make the mounting of the 4in1 solid...to make it "part of the frame" for less shaking, vibrating and movement in maneuvers.

This is hardly rocket science. What I did was simply sandwiched the front holder of the stock frame to another stock frame. Keep or buy a stock frame. Cut the front off. Sand smooth for a nice fit to the new main frame. CA in place. Done.

In all honesty...I really think it makes a huge difference especially if you fly your Esky V4 outside. Gyro heading seems to get a much better lock, resulting in a smoother flight without a lot of rudder correction. I highly recommend this double sided tape. It is cushioned to dampen vibration to the gyro:
http://www.helidirect.com/high-quali...s-1-p-6956.hdx
(sample).

Hello all, Kinda new at this but, here goes. This is a mod that I think you will like especialy if you want to take your KOB into stronger landing skids.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...39&postcount=1

To be added,
Mike.