Posted by sanukiudon | Today @ 03:17 AM | 58 Views
Ninja 2.5T
山でDS (2 min 4 sec)

Posted by Jack Crossfire | Today @ 01:55 AM | 104 Views
The day had finally come to install short circuiting switches on the Mastech. Many circuits were fried because its current limiting was set too high. It was too much trouble to unplug the circuit & plug in a short circuiting wire to set it.

Despite looking simple from outside, the front panel is packed on the inside. There was only 1 place to squeeze the switches in. The LEDs had to be sandwiched between the switches & the plastic. At this time, another desire emerged to have switches for turning off the individual outputs without turning off the manes, but this would have been a much more incremental benefit than the short circuit switches.

With it all installed twice, the switches pointed at the current dial when they were shorting & pointed at the voltage dial when they were open. This was the most intuitive orientation. They worked very briefly, at low voltages & all current up to 5A. When the voltage was set to 30V, the switches quickly failed closed.

The switches open by a spring force which the human has no control over. The human can merely press the spring to make contact, but the spring must break contact by its own force. The spring had arc welded to the contact. It could be broken apart & reassembled, for the most part. Despite being rated for 6A 120V, the switches still failed at 30V 5A.

The best the internet can come up with is 120V AC ratings being equivalent to 14V DC, because in AC there is a zero crossing after 8ms to break the arc while in DC, the arc can continue. While the power supply limits current when quiescent, there is a very high inrush current when short circuiting it. The Chinese must have encountered the same problem, said "f*ck it" in Chinese & left out the short circuit switches.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Today @ 01:09 AM | 127 Views
The lion kingdom long dreamed of a switch allowing a heat gun to blow cold air. It would cool hot glue. The deed was finally done. The wires were not intuitive. The big red & black pair didn't power the heating element, but probably powered the thermocouple. It was the tiny black pair connected to CON1.

Unfortunately, it takes a very long time for the heating element to cool off. The switch has to be off when it 1st comes on or it'll take 30 minutes to blow cold air. It does indeed cool hot glue.
Posted by Deserteagle | Today @ 12:32 AM | 146 Views
Always liked the look of the Atom V2 but not the price and some reports of ESC fires. Also the camera on the V2 was not customers first choice and many just complained or replaced them.

So why not just build your own I thought.

I started off I started with a budget of around $200 because I don't think a 130 sized copter should be more than that.

My choices for the build were the following

1. EMAX 1306 4k motors for $48

2. Racestar 4in1 20A ESC $23

3. Genuine HGLTECH (careful of knockoffs!!!) F3 V4 Flight Control Board AIO 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable Transmitter OSD BEC PDB Current Sensor $42

...Continue Reading
Posted by rinoki71 | Yesterday @ 10:49 PM | 192 Views
Review and Test Drive of this inexpensive "Rat Rod" style 2WD Off-Road buggy.

8822G 1:12 "Alloy Speed Run" R/C Buggy (12 min 3 sec)

Posted by mfwilliams | Yesterday @ 08:56 PM | 258 Views
This Saturday was the "Longest Day" club picnic at the Tullahoma Coffee Airfoilers. Poh had sent me a note about it and I remembered the wonderful chili fun fly the club had last fall. So it didn’t take much of a nudge for me to drive the 48 miles down for a Southern homestyle dinner.
As always, the food was to die for. I spent about 3 hours munching and talking to the Tullahoma boys.
I had hoped to wait until nightfall to enjoy the scheduled “night fly”. But the wife called and was worried about me driving in the dark back to Murfreesboro, so I packed it in about 8pm.
Thanks Coffee Airfoilers
Great food and great flying
Mike...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Yesterday @ 08:44 PM | 255 Views
Running into some bad luck lately with FPV quads.

My favorite quad, the 100mm, has been down for a few days now due to an 'intermittent' dropout issue. First though it was a "loose" motor wire, apparently not because it is still dropping out of the sky at random. Thought it was a motor issue, nope...flight controller, nope. Looks like the issue is with the ESC but not just one, all 3 decided to die on me at different time. Yank all of the XM10A and threw it in the trash and replace it with LittleBee I had laying around. Seems to fix the it's flying not as "nice" as it was before and noob me did not copy the PID down before I decided to reflash the Piko BLX. It's flying okay but not the way I like it, not 'tracking' around corners as it was before. Did try to tune it a big yesterday but getting this stupid weird issue when I do a slow/large bank. Like it's 'auto' correcting itself. Come to find out the the XT60 connector might have been flapping and hitting the battery/frame...ran out of time to troubleshoot/fly so for now it sit and wait...

Second FPV quad is a 147 Verdin and after an 'upgrade' with a RunCam swift and vtx it flies like a drift does not like the pod and the extra weight...haven't had time to tune it so it also sit and wait....

Finished a HellBender 122 with RacerStar 15A (discontinued) and it flew great until a small drop and ESC1 clue why. Replace it and test it with 3S and 4S before taking it to the park yesterday. Two minutes into LOS flight to double check and down it goes. Manage to retrieve it and the whole thing is up in smoke. Look like ESC3 burst in flame. What the h***..............can it get worst???

So, my only flyable one are the Eachine 130, HobbyMate 130 and Micro. The Eachine 130 is a little under power and the HobbyMate need to go on a diet (I think) so my Micro is the only one that I fly and actually like at this point. Not a good month...........and getting frustrated with FPV...

Posted by Andrew Smith | Yesterday @ 06:02 PM | 336 Views
Hooray, Its here.

Ordered My Slite kit on Oct 18, 2016, Shipped on June 7 2017, left Germany on June 9, 2017, cleared Canadian customs on June 16, arrived at my door on June 20.

Started construction today June 24.

Both fixed ruddervator sections are done.
I am using glidermang's thread ( ) as an aid.

Thanks for your detailed builds, Greg. I know it will be a great help as my build progresses.
Posted by Vintabilly_NS | Yesterday @ 04:59 PM | 362 Views
The first minutes after the bell on the very last day of more lunches!
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Yesterday @ 03:05 PM | 436 Views
In my blog entry from December 05, 2016, I discussed where you would see Mt. Rainier from my flying field on a clear day. Well, last Thursday was that clear day on the second day of summer. So I owe you guys a pic of that big geological pimple sitting to the south about 90 miles away. Mt. St. Helens is only a stone's throw away from there to the southwest. Imagine what it would look like as you were flying your plane, and this bad boy suddenly exploded!

I met Mark and Karen Brody at the field Thursday. They just recently joined Marymoor R/C Club. They're former full-scale pilots, flying such iconic planes as the Beechcraft Debonair and the Cessna 310 (Whoo-Hoo! Sky King!). Formerly, they were members of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, and Mark proudly owns his A.O.P.A. 50 Year pin. Both are currently still supportive members of the Experimental Aircraft Association (E.A.A.). It was my pleasure talking with this super-friendly couple.

I recently lost my beloved modified 40" foamy Super Sportster (also shown in my blog entry from Dec. 05, 2016). It suffered an apparent brown-out as it was coming around in the Back 40. The grass back there is taller than I am, and the little plane disappeared forever into those engulfing green blades. So to combat future losses and increase my recovery rate, I'm now installing the Hobbico Air Alert in all my planes. It lets out long beeps to quickly help me find the plane if it goes down. And something else I learned is that if a plane has anything more severe than a mild crash, the battery will pop out and disconnect. The Air Alert will not work with no juice to it, so I also routinely install Velcro straps to go around my battery.
Posted by aben71 | Yesterday @ 02:57 PM | 464 Views
Found this really cool looking r/c rockcrawler by WL Toys at Gearbest ,the WLtoys 10428 . This looks like a nicely detailed and reasonably priced r/c truck

- Brand: WLtoys
- Model NO.: 10428 - B
- Channels: 2CH
- Speed: 30km/h
- Motor: 540 brushed motor
- Radio control: 2.4G transmitter
- Wheelbase: 286mm
- Battery for car: 7.4V 2200mAh li-po battery
- Battery for transmitter: 6 x 1.5V AA battery ( not included )

Find it here
Posted by flyenrw | Yesterday @ 12:00 PM | 568 Views
Oh the weather.............just can't paint!
I was able to finish the floor boards with a final coat of polycrylic, possibly because it is a water based product,
( nothing flashed off ) , but when I shot the glass black for the pedals after primer coating, the surface turned rough and the gloss disappeared.
So...... that is going to become a re-do! Not for a while!
This has to be the wettest summer yet.
Enough moaning and groaning.
I've mounted the tail wheel with the carbon fiber arm and heavier duty springs.
Where I thought I might use the dome top aluminum nut used to cap the post of the tail wheel that came with some of the parts purchased for this project, I ultimately felt it was too large and opted for a simple wheel collar, so I cut the threads off the post of the tail wheel housing and applied a flat spot to it for the wheel collar set screw.
The picture side by side shows the improvement in height, lifting the tail by a 1/2". I believe it will also help get the tail on step gently as the wing angle of attack will already be better suited to lift, rather than at a more acute angle of attack!
Without having to apply a sudden burst of power increasing P factor, should tame the tendency of the plane to be squirrel y and require large rudder corrections before take off and no lift to the wing.
Having read the forum and feed back about this plane and tendencies, I formulated a couple of ideas to try, such as this one, in hopes of...Continue Reading
Posted by Daniel Fitzgera. | Yesterday @ 10:35 AM | 606 Views
Hello, I, have been building boats for over 30 years. I am currently building a 82 inch by 15 inch model of the German Tug Hermes. I have read some of your bloggers with engine decision issues and wish to help. I have been away from modeling for over a decade , I see things have changed drastically. No more super ferrites from astro (bad move on their part) and brushed motors cast out in Favour of brushless. I had trouble finding a motor for my big ship, I found 775 fanned various rpm, but felt these would not last long regardless pushing a 275 lbs tug around, their were some big big motors on eBay upwards of 100 buckeroo's 12 volt with 10 mm shafts I thought Him..... Then I found the objects of my affection, 8 pole double shaft out both ends running 2800rpm @ 12 volts cost between 20 and 30 buckeroo's cad.
and free shipping. 8 pole electric motors are hard to find they are the most power full ,were torque is required . I ordered two these will be in Inline configuration, direct drive to a 3/16 Dumas shaft, to my 4 blade 4 inch Dumas bronze prop,circa 2008. These motors have the brushes on the sides at the back, like the old ferrite motors to replace the brushes just unscrew the brush caps and boom two seconds new brushes go in. I should get 2200 rpm at the prop, my old Darby at 3.1 on pitman's was sailing like a race boat at 1700 rpm way faster then scale speed. If you go to eBay enter 12volt DC motors 8 pole double shaft , other wise you will have a hard time finding...Continue Reading
Posted by JulianGoesPro | Yesterday @ 10:33 AM | 608 Views
This is work in progress... I just ordered a few things from the EU and the China store with different shipping options... lets see when what arrives

All items are in stock and listed as "dispatched in 1 business day"

the following combinations were selected:

China to EU via DMG Direct Mail (0.37€)
China to EU via Standard Shipping (free / tracking 1.18€)
EU to EU via France Express (3.64€)
EU to EU via Priority Direct Mail (2.73€)
Posted by Garrett1234567 | Yesterday @ 09:53 AM | 717 Views
Dji mavic (2 min 31 sec)

Posted by Drone0fPrey | Yesterday @ 09:15 AM | 731 Views
Enjoy this 18% OFF Coupon for all RC products at GearBest!

This link not only helps you save some of that hard earned money, but also helps me earn future review items.

Check out My threads over
Posted by KatrinaRosen | Yesterday @ 08:42 AM | 766 Views
A new policy governing the use of unmanned aerial devices at a Wisconsin university allows researchers and instructors to use the drones on campus for research or educational purposes. University of Wisconsin-Madison's new policy will apply to indoor and outdoor spaces connected with the university, both in the United States and abroad, The Wisconsin State Journal reported. Students may apply to fly a drone if it relates to coursework or other academic purposes. The university's new Unmanned Aircraft Systems Ethics and Safety Committee will ensure operators are compliant with Federal Aviation Administration standards.
Posted by Woodinthesky | Yesterday @ 06:44 AM | 845 Views
Heres a picture of one of my earphones with a right angle jack for use with Aomway Commanders Goggles shipping out today.
Posted by Grandadtony | Yesterday @ 03:40 AM | 925 Views
Hello all
Totally new to this. After some 20 plus years sitting in its box in the loft I finally gave the Kyosho Outrage RTR to my grandson.
Charged it up, assembled as per instructions and off it when to our great delight and surprise.
The battery didn't last long but that I'm sure can be remedied.
On the second outing the model was crashed and upended, now it has no drive.
Everything seems to be working motor wise, but the wheels do not drive.
Can anyone help please.
Many thanks.