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Posted by spastic | Aug 23, 2015 @ 04:23 PM | 8,623 Views
The background on this motor is that I hate dealing with bands and O-rings, drilling props and different prop hubs.. so i tried using a 2206 meant for multi-rotors with threaded shaft prop adapter and i really liked it. The only issue with using the multi-rotor motor is it didn't have a usual (for foamy motors) built in X mount so it ended up being a bit heavier and you had to do some work to make it usable with a foamy...

So I brought up the idea to the owner of of making a motor with the built in X-mount and the bolt on prop adapter.

Several months later and this motor showed up at
Posted by spastic | Feb 03, 2015 @ 05:50 PM | 11,892 Views
for a stock Build on the Sabre EPP 32" from just use the G202 build here, they build the same;

this thread is just showing some mods i wanted to try and maybe make some precision improvements

none of these are things you "must" to do as the stock design is very carefully thought out and works very well.

as of Feb 3rd i'm still working on it so, i'll keep updating this as i go

1mm carbon rod

The ball links I used on the elevator push-rod, my local hobby shop had these
the links
the balls

...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Feb 02, 2015 @ 07:24 PM | 9,841 Views
Here is how i like to add LED's adds very little weight and doesn't blind you when flying close like you should be with these anyway

these are the LED's i used

pin strip

30AWG magnet wire

if you don't want to use a pin strip...
JST 3cell balance lead, cut the one end off.. make sure your Lipo is compatible

1) cut a section of 3 LED's and i stick them to a strip of hotel key card for some stiffness.

2) wire them up with ~30 awg magnet wire, make sure to scrape off the enamel on the ends before trying to solder the current is very low (about 30mA) so you can use very thin wire

3) for a connection to the Lipo i use a pin strip but you could use a jst balance lead socket or wire the LED"s right to the mains so they are always on when the Lipo is plugged in

4) cut a slot in the wing so that when the LED strip is in it the LED's angle back pointing toward the center of the fuselage. One of the LED's might end up buried in the wing, that's ok. I glue them on place with a dab of quick grip or hotglue.

...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jan 31, 2015 @ 11:48 PM | 12,342 Views
So you got yourself a shiny new G-Force 2206 and stick it onto a new EPP plane and on the first flight! Zip!!! the prop goes for a flight on it's own away from the airplane..

If you have played with Foamies long enough you have probably learned that wobbly adapters on these motors can be finicky to say the least

one problem i've run into, and this motor has it too, is they (the manufacture) puts too short of screws on the adapter to catch the O-ring or band that holds the prop on.

Digging through your stash of screws (if you have one, you don't? well you should!) you might find some suitable M3 screws, in this case they need to be about 2mm longer than the stock baby ~5mm screws they use.

You will find One more problem, the clearance with this motor is very tight and most M3 flat head screws have too Big of a head. This will make getting the bands on or off nearly impossible..

so here is the fix, find some ~7mm flat head M3 screws and chuck them in your drill, even better is a drill press. Use your Dremel with a grinding stone on it to grind the head diameter smaller while you spin the screw with the drill, this way the drill acts like a lathe and you get a nice round and smaller head..

These screws serve two purposes, one they hold the o-ring or band that keeps the prop on, and two they hold the end bell to the shaft, so a dab of blue or red threadlocker is a good idea on these screws.

this is the Valuehobby motor, a beast on 3cells with a 8x4.5SF gem fan prop

these are the screws i used

O-rings that work nice

hope this helps
Posted by spastic | Jan 31, 2015 @ 11:22 PM | 12,189 Views
my EPP planes can fly very aggressive, and with a typical o-ring (or even very strong cut band from surgical tubing) i can wobble the prop in flight, sometimes completely off.
what makes it even worse are the carbon filled props i like because they don't flex at all so all the gyro effect works toward trying to make the prop leave the motor!

I found that these smaller multirotor motors are made with the threaded aluminum shaft as part of the end bell making it lighter than a separate bolt on or collet adapter. Another plus is it keeps the total length of the motor short, which is good.

here are the pics of the motor and mount so far. it will be going on my Sabre EPP 32" design from


Sabre EPP Reading
Posted by spastic | Jan 24, 2015 @ 12:05 PM | 10,793 Views
This is one way to skin this cat, I've used this a bunch with great results this example is from a kit I produced years ago.

the foam i use is from a package of white bead EPS foam used in garage door insulation it is about 5/8" thick (16mm) and 1 LBS/ft^3, (or 16Kg/m^3) I found this at a Value Home Center,.
if you cant find that stuff the blue or pink XPS will work, but i've found that blue and pink has a bad variance in thickness even across one sheet sometimes more than 1/8" but it's manageable

tubes i use Reading
Posted by spastic | Jan 13, 2015 @ 12:46 PM | 12,433 Views
This is a test I have done in the past for personal curiosity but thought I would document it here (and do it all over again).
Conclusion at the bottom

Been telling people about the glue I use and how it's better so I thought I would post some pics and observations to back it up..

The tests parts are all EPP Purchased from (very high quality EPP), it is 1.9LBS EPP at 9mm thick, i cut the test samples into 2 x 2.5" (~50 x 75mm) rectangles, and glued a "T" to test a typical glue joint for EPP.

Right now the glues are going to all get a fair chance to fully cure overnight so tomorrow I will do the bend test on them to see which fails and which doesn't.

None of this is to say which glues are Bad or Good just that for EPP some are better than others

The glues tested are:

CA and activator (CA)
I have found brand doesn't make any difference in this (for EPP), this is my favorite brand med CA glue (for balsa)

Gorilla Glue (white fast cure) (GG)
I have done this test on the amber slower GG and had near the same results (the amber is only slightly better)
I love this GG "white" for gluing balsa to EPS foam

Weldbond (WB)
Some people love this stuff for wood to wood, they say "WeldbondŽ Universal Adhesive truly Bonds Most Anything!" I know it is very strong and "weather proof" on hardwoods.

5-min epoxy (5min)
http://...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jan 06, 2015 @ 11:27 PM | 29,587 Views
This build is for the G202 and the Sabre EPP, I designed both of these for, this thread is also very helpful for the other 32" Valuehobby EPP planes which share many features.
The paper manual in the kit has some things wrong, like the Aileron servo horn and the location of the "zigzag" epp fuse bracing, I also strongly suggest you do not use CA glue for EPP, there are better options!


Sabre EPP

G202 EPP (3 min 12 sec)

Here is the list of Electronics and whatnot I used

three SG90 TowerPro servos

12A Hobbywing ESC

G-Force 2206 1500kv motor Very good vertical Power on 3cell 500mAh!

Gemfan 8x4.5SF prop NOTE: these have a 5mm hub, the 2206 motor has a 5.5mm hub so drill or ream out the prop to 7/32"

Lipo, G-force 3cell 500mAh good for 5min 3D flights

IF, you want 2cell setup, use a 1900KV motor and a 500 to 800mAh Lipo

Micro 4ch RX

Other Items you will need, not...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Nov 21, 2014 @ 06:57 PM | 10,214 Views
Yak-55sp (or Yak SP-55m)

more pics added on 11-30, and actual weight update

Wanting to do one of these for a very long time, but my obsession for the yak55m has delayed the process

Quick Specs
Wing Span 41inch (1041mm)
Length 39.5inch (1030mm)
Motor G15 1100kv
ESC Hobbywing platinum 60A
lipo 1800mAh Elite 3s1p
servos TGY211DMH
RTF weight with 1800mAh 3cell lipo 34oz (965g)

foam core fuse, balsa skinned (1/16" balsa, 1/2inch foam with carbon unidirectional strips running between the foam and balsa.
west system epoxy used for the lamination.

balsa and ply use for wing and stabs with 4x1mm carbon reinforcement on stab and ailerons
9.5mm (3/8") Dia wing tube

Microlite covering, white, transparent blue, opaque red and dark blue

some...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Aug 30, 2014 @ 03:09 PM | 10,643 Views
fun little project i came up with after seeing the in action at my local field. this one is an f-14 but i plan on doing some other designs as well. If produces them they will have detailed printed schemes with panel lines and markings, it flies real well, i'm very happy with it.
1.9lbs 9mm EPP foam
about an 18" WS 4.5 oz w/o battery
2204, 1500kv motor
3cell 500mAh lipo
8x4.5 prop cut down to 6" (didnt have any 6" props on me)
2 5g tower pro servos for elevons
Posted by spastic | Aug 03, 2014 @ 03:40 PM | 11,228 Views
i nailed down the sabre design and submitted it to the EPP factory Valuehobby uses. i really like the how it flies now, it's more neutral (coupling) and more behaved than the first one, i also did away with the sub SFG's and the cantilizers, flying the first proto with and without i actually liked it better without. I also nixed the LE step the first one had, like it better without as well.. i think the proto turned out cool looking all black and white with some simple gray stripes on the bottom. the printed scheme i designed is shown in the pics as well
the power system i'm really happy with now, this is my standard..

- 1500kv 2206 new all black valuehobby motor.

-8x4.5 SF no name prop from valuehobby, my new fav prop, just have to drill out the hub for 5.5mm and balance

-12A or 10A (10 has shown to be enough) Funfly (hobbywing) esc

-500mAh 3cell lipo, 46-50g packs the ones i found on hobbyking were 46g not 42 as advertized i think mostly its the super long leads they have. im getting longer flight times with the g-force 50c ones for a couple grams more

-three sg90 towerpro servos, i run these on all my 32" foamies not one has failed yet, i'm sure i just jinxed...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 19, 2014 @ 10:12 AM | 11,401 Views
Experimenting with a bunch of aero gadgets, might be too much? I ll have more pics as I go

Just have the pants to do left, tell me what you think, I want your input!

Edit, Ok so I'm taking the cantilizers off and the sub SFG things, just going to have the tip sfg's and the elevator fins, I did not feel any difference with or without the cantilizers, maybe not big enough, I didn't like how they looked too much either.
I changed the shape of the wing a bit.. updated the pics with some schemes....Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 17, 2014 @ 03:10 PM | 12,827 Views
this is a work in progress, right now it's a 4cell 2200mAh rock ship with a G15 (3715) 1000kv motor 12x6E (or on 3cells 2800mAh 13x8E) and mini servos like hs-85 size, right now i'm using TGY-390V HV servos

im making some changes;
1) lighter and use smaller servos (like 12g HS-65mg or similar) it really doenst need to be a 4cell setup, on 3cells (2200-2800mAh) it will be really good if made lighter

2) slightly less taper and slightly less aileron, right now its just slightly harry to fly it doesn't tip stall or snap without you wanting it to, but you really have to be a good 3D pilot to keep on top of it.. great pilots might like it the way it is but i think most will want it more tame.

3) a hair shorter in the fuse, i think shorter and less taper will make flat spins better, right now it wont do a flat spin

4) servos in the tail and battery will just get strapped to the fuse like the 35" sabre and cap on (also my designs ) this way the battery can balance for KE better and setup will be easier and people don't like pushrod guides

it will get one of the schemes like on the previous blog post

it is wild to fly, it will tumble like a full-fuse plane even doing pop tops fairly well (most profiles can't do them) KE spins are really nice and tight, KE has some coupling which drives me crazy (roll out), i think its only because the battery is slightly below the center line.

anyway here are the pics, i cut everything myself with a #11...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 13, 2014 @ 10:33 PM | 11,795 Views
Schemes can make or break a model (for sales) and i stress over the scheme as much as any other aspect of the design, here are some schemes i'm working on for the G-202 EPP foamy....Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 09, 2014 @ 04:58 PM | 13,798 Views
Here is a build i did just to see if i could get it to fly well, the factory crashed theirs after 10 seconds.. i didn't have any issues with how it flew!

I think what did them in was the draggy push-rods that are included, i replaced them with goldenrod, nice and smooth now, ill add notes later just getting the pics on here.

-70" span 3 part wing

-fiberglass fuse

-nice ply equipment tray in the fuse

-balsa and ply tail and wing, covered in Genuine Neucover iron on film

-aluminum wing joiner tubes

-CF stab joiner tube (glued in however)

-ailerons and flaps used MG mini servos (emax ES3104)
rudder and elevator used some standard size servos i had around

-fasst 8ch rx

-twin hobbywing 80A esc's (i used 80's because there is no airflow for the esc's)

-twin G-force 25 motors 1100kv, (they fit the nassels better than the G32 size motor would)

-spinning 11x5.5E props (counter rotation)

-4cell 4000mAh could use more for nose...Continue Reading