Cereal_Killer's blog View Details
Posted by Cereal_Killer | Jun 25, 2016 @ 10:28 AM | 45,885 Views
Been awhile since I did a blog post, wanted to show off my newest version of my mini tri (200mm) but I think the guys in the tricopter sub-forum are getting pretty tired of seeing it, even tho it's always a new build from one version to the next they look similar and use the same parts\...

This is a recycled parts build, the flight controller is an RCExplorer tricopter FC board from an older version of my big AP one (600mm) now that the F3 board is out. All the other body parts are parts cut from an old ZMR250 (except the middle plate which I cut from a sheet of CF), arms are un-modified ZMR250 arms. All CF cutting done by hand and by eye, no plans ever made for anything.

So I started out a long time ago using an RCExplorer frame with some ZMR250 arms bolted to it, it flew but it wasn't very strong, surely it couldnt take a hard hit with it's lack of support. It was fine and dandy to fly around LOS but now that I've finally gotten into racing and harder acro style FPV flying I just knew it wasn't gonna hold up so a full rebuild was in order, along with lots of upgrades.

Now I'm one of those types of people who just HATES having parts laying around, it irks me the wrong way to have good, usable parts sitting in my junk bin; what to do, what to do...

The upper protector plate and lower battery mount are both cut down main frame plates from the ZMR250, when I built the first version of this mini I bought a ZMR250 frame just for the arms so I had all other frame...Continue Reading
Posted by Cereal_Killer | Feb 28, 2016 @ 10:40 AM | 46,688 Views
If anyone here recognizes me by now and has seen me post you'll likely know I'm a huge fan of Walkera's Devo line of radios and the DeviationTX open source FW they run. I've always kept UTD with the newest nightly builds, I helped to develop the channel add-on method for adding 3 analog and 6 digital inputs, which BTW also exploits the FW's ability to accept PPM INPUT to the trainer port (a UART serial port).

Now I've got a wireless BuddyBox setup between my 7E and my 10 with just ~$10 worth of hardware.

Parts list (full disclosure, I did it for $10.96 out of pocket cause my 7E already had a A7105 module in it I pulled off a WLToys transmitter)
{Note these are direct product links, NOT AFFILIATE / share-a-sale links!}

$10.96 FlySky protocol 8ch PPM micro receiver

$2.68 A7105 module (more than fine for this type of short range use where the operators are standing next to each other). If you also intend to fly modely with this consider the ~$10 PA'd version.

Step one, which has been done since I got the 7E two years ago, is to install the A7105 module in the 7E. This is pretty straight forward and is VERY well documented at DeviationTX.com. If you havent caught on, the 7E will be the student (as well as the second / camera operator) sending it's signal to the 10, the 10 will handle mixing and be the only radio link to the model it's self.

Step two is much less documented; start out by opening up the 10 and installing the FlySky PPM receiver where ever you think it...Continue Reading
Posted by Cereal_Killer | Jun 15, 2015 @ 11:37 AM | 47,303 Views
Hey guys, blog post #2-

I've collected several toy grade FC's out of micro toy quad's I broke or somply took apart, an L6052 I was never happy with and a GY-521 gryo breakout that had been soldered and desoldered one to many times. Point being I had several unusable boards that had good MPU6050 gyro's on them (and all the necessary passive components to run them). I threw together a gyro breakout board in eagle, took me about 6 minutes to add an LED and set resistor to the sparkfun board, then I ordered a set of three of them for about $1 each! (It cost me $3.05 SHIPPED for a set, OSHPark makes you order 3 at a time). NOTE THERE IS NO ON BOARD VREG, you MUST supply these with 3.3V, 5V will kill the gyro!!!

I then waited the about 10 days it takes for OSHPark (they're really running fast right now) and once I got them I removed the gyro's from the broken breakout and unneeded toy FC and assembled myself a couple gyro's I can now use on other builds.

This is the link where you can order the boards, you order BARE BOARDS directly from oshpark, and again shipping is included in that $3.05!

Assembly its self is a little bit of a challenge, SMD soldering QFN packages is not for the beginner, if you arnt a competent SMD solderer this probably isnt for you! I was originally using bottom heat but I found you didnt get good pin to pad bonding without also applying top heat, I had to end up using a hot plate below and my hot air station from above at the same time to get a 100&...Continue Reading
Posted by Cereal_Killer | Apr 29, 2015 @ 10:57 AM | 47,718 Views
Hello RCGroups, this is my first blog post here so a very brief intro...

My name's Dan, I'm an electrical engineer by trade and I enjoy a multitude of electronics based hobbies. I'm pretty much still new to multirotors (been flying BNF models about a year and a half and just built my first DIY after xmas this year, I now have quite the hanger of both BNF and DIY models, mostly tricopters and quads) but I've been flying planes, both nitro and electric, since the early 90's. I'm also into OSHW as a hobby in general and circuit and PCB design is the main aspect of my job so I incorporate it into many of my hobbies.

Anyway on to the body of this post:
Today I wanted to tell a little story of how a tree saved me from my first fly away yesterday morning. I only had about 15 minutes to waste so instead of packing all my gear (and my 3 year old) in the car and driving to the park I just went for a quick yard flight. I did my usual preflight safety checks, that includes torquing the prop nuts, the motor mount and arm-to-body bolts and plugging in the GUI to verify RC data and that EEPROM stored values are all intact, everything looked fine so I went outside to fly around in the yard for a few minutes, it was nice and only about 8-10MPH winds (rare for this time of year here).

Everything was fine, I'd recently changed servo's to a digital one and was still dialing in my yaw gains again so there was just a little bit of tail wag ("P" tuning was good so there wasnt any...Continue Reading