ckleanth's blog View Details
Posted by ckleanth | Aug 04, 2017 @ 12:53 PM | 93,773 Views
I predominantly fly gasoline engine powered planes so it is important to me to use a device that work with the standard Tachometer leads from most gasoline engine ignitions. In addition monitor onboard voltage and engine temperatures.

This is what the new MiniHub+ (for FrSky/Taranis/Horus) does. It works with the standard Tachometer leads from most gasoline engine ignitions . The ignition system has conditioned the signal and it is easily used for the MiniHub+'s RPM header.

The MiniHub+ has also two temperature ports (you will need the FrSky thermistors FrSky TEMS-01) and three voltage inputs (0 to 5v, currently you will need the frsky voltage step down circuit FrSky FBVS to measure up to 5S LiPo battery).

The MiniHub+2/4 (can be used for multi engines) and to use two devices daisy chained together it requires OpenTX 2.1+ due to telemetry sensor ID assignment)

For more information please visit the following page.
Posted by ckleanth | Jul 14, 2016 @ 07:54 PM | 97,601 Views
I have cracked how to setup a pull pull rudder configuration.

A pull pull rudder is set with the two pulling wires in tension at centre. When the rudder is loaded and at a rudder angle the plane should still fly fine with some slack on the unloaded side. However loading and unloading the wire may result to fatigue failure either of the wires or the servo ball bearings and that's I have eliminated.

I can now optimise the servo arm geometry for pull pull cross wires based on aircraft measured distances (with minimal slack on unloaded side) thus lowering the continuous loading/unloading force of the wires (that can cause a failure).

I can design an arm that will not slack the unloaded side for a pull pull rudder setup for any plane, i just need you to measure up a few dimensions.

Cost for just figure out the optimized arm dimensions to suit your plane 6 plus paypal fees

Cost to figure out the optimized arm dimensions to suit your plane and cut the arm:
12 for a servo arm up to and including 80mm diameter
17 for a servo arm bigger than above

plus postage for an envelope and paypal fees .

Will ship world wide.

The mounting holes at the arm will be 2mm (thus 30cc sized 3dhs/EF hardware should fit straight in, if you want the hole bigger just let me know).

NB you will need to have a method to mount the arm on your servo/rudder tray. I recommend using an aluminium hub (or use an existing arm with offset and screw my custom arm on top)

There are four 3mm diameter holes a the mounting points 17mm distance between its centres (but you can easily drill your own pattern or let me know your requirements and will mill the arm to suit you).

Demonstration video here.
3DHS EDGE 540 74" custom made pull pull servo arm (1 min 8 sec)

Posted by ckleanth | Oct 29, 2015 @ 08:36 AM | 96,983 Views
Recently I fitted night lights on my "to go" plane.

We don't get the aurora stuff in the UK plus it was cheaper to DYI a lighting system that It will do what I want.

I bought separate sfg's some time ago and because i didn't want to mess my "good ones" so the second pair is now the night flying /winter ones

I used 3W led 2.5v-3v. two LED in series two on top and two on the bottom on each wing sfg (8 LED total)

I still intend to fit green lights in the canopy (for orientation/looks cool)

I power the LED at 6v with a separate sbec & switch (power directly from rx battery, 1 channel from rx to enable remore on/off. You need to have common ground with rx if you will use a switch and a separate battery.

The LED's are effectively four pairs wired up directly at the 6v sbec/switch. If one pair heats up/ led burns then that pair is out of action. You still got light around the plane but if that happens you'd better be on your way to land

I originally run them straight from the 2s lipo for testing but they got really hot and cut off the power. At 6v regulated they work fine

At 5 minutes on 2s uses 110mah, they are cool to touch so.. all good

This is the first flight with them fitted so I was testing the waters and how much the plane characteristics have changed with the added weight.

20151026 EF Extra 300 EXP 48 RC Flight B 001 (4 min 52 sec)

components and schematic
ref my schematic you can move the small bec after...Continue Reading
Posted by ckleanth | Jul 26, 2015 @ 11:09 AM | 96,930 Views
I started this hobby when I was 14, found a high wing trainer (that had seen better days) at my grandad's that belonged to my uncle. I gave that model some love and attention and went with my uncle to fly it only to be smashed to bits by its owner. I then decided i was better off buying a dave brown sim, in which tought me orientation and gave me the basics to start flying. I started with glow trainers and a few low wing sports planes only to pause the hobby when i went to uni.

Life and family came first and it was only five years ago (2010) when I came back to the hobby. I bought an FMS corsair electric. Thinking "I know how to fly this will be easy"... yea right. I managed to get the thing on the ground ripping all landing gear from the fuse. it never flew again and I immediately grew a dislike for warplanes

I then bought a Top Gun Park Flite MX2 3D 1400mm EPO (HK also does it) this got flown once and my wife killed it (long story and to be fair she was heavily pregnant/hormonal etc)

I had a Top Gun Park Flite Stratus Trainer (motorized small glider thing that end up on a tree. I rang my local friendly firebrigade and they kindly offered to hose it down and obviously the plane came down in pieces. I decided not to stuck planes up on trees again...

I then started with cheap HK stuff as most and then realised I was wasting my money on HK planes. I bought an EF extra 48 which I smashed to bits, then an ADX which I smashed and bought another and together with...Continue Reading