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Archive for July, 2019
Posted by VicT | Jul 28, 2019 @ 11:38 PM | 2,386 Views
I was timing for a pilot during a recent Altidude Limiting Endurance contest (ALES). Most pilots were using the Radian motorglider and having trouble landing within the landing circle. Most were landing outside and getting zero landing points. The Radian has no flaps or spoilers so approach planning and touchdown is non standard. A random circling approach or a low fast approach is about all you can do. When you want to come to a stop you nose her in to the grass and hope that the spinner, prop, and motor are not damaged. Of course if you use motor you save your Radian but get a zero for the flight.

The stock Radian comes with a white plastic skeg that is about 1/4” high and protects the white foam from getting scratched. If the plastic supported a music wire skeg I think it would improve the concept of protecting the prop and also improve spot landings in grass and other runway surfaces.

The following pic and diagram shows the concept of the music wire skeg mod. I will be testing a main wheel and rudder wheel for maneuvering on the grass and hard runway with my Night Radian. Other ideas are encouraged and welcomed.
Posted by VicT | Jul 27, 2019 @ 09:46 PM | 2,623 Views
The Radian has no drag devices but you can use the prop to add drag. Go into your DX6,7,8,9.....TX throttle curve menu and change the straight line points to a lower slope. Turn the curve to on and change point 2 to 5%, point 3 to 10% point 4 to 25%. You will not see a curve but adjust the points so that at half throttle the prop just starts to turn. In flight when you might not be able to see the prop turning move the throttle stick to the halfway point and you will be in the area where the prop just starts to turn. You will be providing windmilling thrust which is actually drag. Make sure to close the throttle just befor touchdown to avoid a prop strike.
Posted by VicT | Jul 27, 2019 @ 09:24 PM | 2,452 Views
The stock plastic clevis that comes with the Night Radian and many other Horizon models has a weak “axle” that will bend and break when you try and insert it into another control horn hole. If you make the hole bigger and insert the axle into the hole and secure it with the rubber tubing it will work but if the hole is oversize then you will get slop in the elevator, rudder, aileron control. If the axle breaks, separates, and falls away you will have no control. In the case of no elevator you most likely will crash. Dubro recognized this poor design and has a metric plastic clevis that will fit the 1.3-1.5 threaded rod and has a larger and stronger axle. You will have to drill out the control horn holes for the Dubro clevis to fit but it works great and is a great replacement. Here is the link to the part:

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...01p?I=DUBA1000
Posted by VicT | Jul 08, 2019 @ 11:48 PM | 4,184 Views
I have a blog for a top battery door for the original Timber but this is for the Turbo Timber. It might work for the original Timber but you are on your own.

I’ve had no structural problems with this TT mod. I’ve had about 100 flights and with no crashes it has held up. If you crash or damage the model in any way the whole aircraft must be inspected and fixed before the next flight. In my experience most flyers and especially beginners try and fly with a damaged model without fixing the crash damage. Then they blame their crashes on the models design. Enough Soap Box. Read on if you want,
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The TT has 4 carbon fiber tubes that connect the motor mount to the main cabin area. The surrounding foam supports the tubes and acts as a wind fairing. By cutting away the top surface of the fairing the tubes are not compromised.
The top cowl and windshield are cut away with a new small size box cutter. Remove the ESC and any light wires to eliminate accidentally cutting those wires. See pics