Posted by lasakro | Today @ 01:11 AM | 920 Views
Built 2019- First large heli

ESC- Castle Talon 120 HV
Motor: Align RMC-BL800MX 520KV
Batteries: Gens ACE 5Ah 6S 45C GA-B1018
Main Blades: RotoStar 690mm
Cyclic Servos: KST DS725MG
Tail Servo: KST DS525MG
Receivers: FrSky RX8R Pro
FBL Controller: Bavarian AXON
Telemetry: FrSky Smart Port Sensors SP2UART (Voltage), SP-RPM (RPM & Temp)
Gearing: Pinion- 13T, Main- 115T
Posted by phil alvirez | Yesterday @ 02:58 PM | 1,928 Views
perhaps some data on our source wouldnt hurt.
how were invented and developed is a fascinating story. enjoy.
Posted by unboxingexp | Yesterday @ 11:27 AM | 2,290 Views
Works great! Gonna stick with ELRS, it's a great and affordable radio link system. If you can't update your BETAFPV TX open the casing and hold down the button on the PCB . Some early TX were faulty.
BETAFPV nano ExpressLRS 2.4GHz TX module (1 min 37 sec)

Posted by Tazkiller85 | Yesterday @ 05:05 AM | 2,788 Views
🧐Yep Les Amis,
Le paquebot des airs ! lol. Nous testons aujourd'hui le monstre de chez HGLRC et REKONFPV, le Rekon 7 Pro. Un Kwad 7 pouces très bien équipé, GPS, F7, Buzzer autonome et VTX de 800mW pour cette version analogique. Si on met de côté le souci rencontré sur notre exemplaire et résolu avec les hélices bipales, cet engin est un digne successeur de la lignée des Rekon ! Un tarif très raisonnable pour un appareil de cette qualité de finition et d'équipements, un châssis bien rigide et pas mal de place pour installer tous les accessoires voulus. Le vol est doux, précis et extrêmement fluide. Premier 7 pouces pour Yacine et moi, nous avons été agréablement surpris et assez impressionnés par son pilotage, un peu de douceur dans ce monde de brutes ! lol ... Prenez soin de vous (et des autres) et merci à tous pour votre soutien .

REKON 7 PRO HGLRC & REKONFPV - Review Test Démo - Problème résolu, pour l'instant ... (1 hr 0 min 9 sec)

🧐NOTATAZ : 17/20 Impressionnant mais .... Affaire à suivre.

- REKON 7 PRO analogique (Coupon Drones6) :
- REKON 7 PRO numérique (Coupon Drones6) :
- Li Ion 6S 3000mAh Auline :
- Lipo 6S 1800mAh :
- Chargeur conseillé pour lipos :

- REKON 7 PRO analogique :
- Châssis REKON 7 PRO : ...Continue Reading
Posted by Martian McFly | Yesterday @ 02:32 AM | 2,988 Views
So, I decided to take the long range rig on holiday and here's the footage, I managed to get a round 4Km out before my balls reclined back in to my stomach and turned back. I'm pretty sure that I could have go a lot further but didn't fancy the walk if the worst happened.

A beautiful place to visit and fly!

Relaxing Long Range Holiday FPV 👽 (10 min 37 sec)

Posted by Zzx | Yesterday @ 12:59 AM | 3,103 Views
Found a park where I live and it had a massive hill at the other end, lets climb it.

FPV Hill Climb in the Tonka Summit Rover. Sept 17th 2021 (4 min 40 sec)

Posted by Teo40 | Yesterday @ 12:36 AM | 3,123 Views
I bought this plane. AA 2.10, 6s battery, motor with reducer. the old owner says he bought it in China where he lived for several years. does anyone know him? some tips on how to make it run a little more as it is very slow. the measures are not written on the blade
Posted by K2-tokyo | Sep 17, 2021 @ 10:18 PM | 3,391 Views
This is my short memo concerning the Radio Master 16S for an Eachine E129 and a Blade Nano S2 (never for 3D).

I. The method of the firmware upgrade for Eachine E129 helicopter, and OMP M2(original receiver)

1, At first, you had better upgrade the transmitter firmware to the newest one by using any PC software OpenTX Companion:

2, The internal multi-module upgrade for AETR-type protocol (E119, E129, OMP-M2);

Use the Multi-Module firmware in

Select a module: RadioMaster TX16S Internal Module (4-in-one)
Firmware version:
Then download: multi-stm-serial-aetr-v1.3.2.77.bin

Transfer this file into the "FIRMWARE" folder in the SDcard in the transmitter by using the USB-cable. Then, after cut the USBcable, do the firmware flashing operation by the transmitter!

3, You can find E129, OMP in the internal multimodules.

II. Blade Nano S2 helicopter

1, (channel order). My main receivers are of Futaba, and so my default channel order is AETR in RADIO SETUP.
I know the channel order of blade helicopters is TAER, but in the setting of RadioMaster 16S the channel order of NanoS2 should be AETR. (I do not know why).

2, Create a new model; choose
(i) plane (ii) motor: yes CH3, (iii) Aileron: one, CH1, (iv) flaps: no, (v) Ele, Rudder: CH2 A, CH4 B, (vi) Yes.

3, (Mode Set up)
Internal...Continue Reading
Posted by cuavlindy | Sep 17, 2021 @ 08:38 PM | 3,391 Views
CUAV P8 is finished mass production and having stocks now .come and know more about us in
Posted by djmoose | Sep 17, 2021 @ 06:56 AM | 4,488 Views
I wanted to make a short video to show the details of these really nice padded wing bags from Extreme Flight RC. I'll unbox and go over the features to give you an idea of what is available if you're in the market for a set of nice wing bags for your favorite model airplane.
50cc Padded Wing Bags -
35cc Padded Wing Bags -

Extreme Flight RC Padded Wing Bags - Unbox and Review - 50cc and 30cc (6 min 1 sec)

Posted by Jack Crossfire | Sep 16, 2021 @ 11:00 PM | 5,395 Views
So the lion kingdom finally got a set of retaining rings & the tool for ending the motors slipping off. It should now be possible to use wide offroad tires. 1 fell swipe of the full faith & credit ended a year of problems. Full faith & credit is sometimes worth a lot more than being creative.

The tool is too big to fit in the 6mm retaining rings, but is necessary to put them on. Once on, the tool can easily fit to take them off. There is a choice between angled tips & straight tips, but they're all different sizes. The smallest tip is only straight. What helps is using a metal shaft to twist apart the retaining ring just enough for the tool to get in.
Posted by aero nishi | Sep 16, 2021 @ 05:35 PM | 6,380 Views
RC Factory Step One BABY with Whoop FC - automated flight (0 min 40 sec)

Whoop FC was installed to RC Factory Step One BABY. Since it flies with brushed motors, I used brushed FC, Happymodel BeecoreX FR F4.

○Betaflight Setting
The setting is very simple because it uses only two motors. The right wing motor was connected to the motor 1 connector of the FC and the left one was to motor 2 connecter. The differential thrust was set to control yaw by rudder. The betaflight cli commands were as follows:

# mixer
mmix reset
mmix 0 1.000 0.000 0.000 -1.0 #Motor1
mmix 1 1.000 0.000 0.000 1.0 #Motor2
set small_angle=180

PID Setting
Since the yaw axis control was used to control the motor speeds, only yaw PID settings were necessary. I used P 15 I 0 D 0.

Board Alignment
FC was placed inside the fuselage as shown in the photo. The board alignment was roll -90 pitch -135 yaw 0. Since FC gets very hot, it is recommended to remove the canopy and cool down after each flight.

GWS 25mm wheels were installed for takeoff and landing in the gym.

This is optional but BeecoreX has OSD and VTX, so you can turn it into an FPV plane by simply connecting a camera (Runcam Nano 3, weighs only 1.1g!). Be careful of cooling FC. It may be necessary to place the FC outside the fuselage.

○Like an Indoor Rubber-Powered Airplane
You can fly Step One BABY with the above settings. I attached a hex file I used to make it fly like an...Continue Reading
Posted by simages | Sep 16, 2021 @ 02:42 PM | 6,699 Views
Never got into "correctly" programming of a 6 servo Sailplane, but started to program a few Acro models with Crow/Butterfly and implementing spoilers on a couple....... That's when I knew it was time to get serious about actually programing my Stealth DX18 to create models for a better experience and of course for flying success!

So, I started to search for help on the configuration and setups for my two 6 servo sailplanes and that's when I came across Sherman Knight, aka Duworm and Red Sailplane where his work is available.
Total of 250 pages, Holy C***, worth every dollar!
Posted by mojowoykin | Sep 16, 2021 @ 11:28 AM | 6,930 Views
Hey All,...

If anyone is interested...
I can post these in the classifieds,..
shoot me a PM .
I can also meet up locally in San Diego county.

We Plan on some caps and warmer stuff in a bit.

you can also email me from


Pre-washed cotton
Black and white
$15 plus ship

Individual Requests will be considered

Posted by C5000052 | Sep 16, 2021 @ 10:21 AM | 7,105 Views
Hi, I’ve just completed this kit I bought. I originally had one that my father built for me in 1967. I’ve tried to use the original colour scheme. I hope you like it. Thanks Keith
Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 16, 2021 @ 01:39 AM | 8,506 Views
For Part-2 then, go to:


Work got in the way, as usual and some family obligations so, for two (2) nights I have made some slow progress to finish up that Top Hatch and ways to secure it.

First, I had to make planking frame around the Top Hatch cover itself to provide some rigid strength and so the same with the FUSE side.

Just a lesson learn here that you would want to glue in the End-Cap formers at the FUSE end (both sides) before you proceed in cutting the underlying Ply platform which is right underneath the Top Hatch Cover. Why? Because the factory only provided a thin and weak end-cap plywood formers and when you start sawing these just come unglued but, not to the point of any damage but, still just a heads UP.

At time of this write-up I have finally figured out a way to secure the Top Hatch cover to the FUSE by using some lose magnets from a Park Zone 480 Brushless motor and at the FUSE end a machine bolt with a large metal washer. I have not tried it yet because the glue that will hold the magnets is presently curing.

Okay, I am tired so, here's some pictures of my rather slow progress less the magnets.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Sep 15, 2021 @ 09:25 PM | 9,258 Views
Pressing down on the board in just the right way got the servo to glitch reproducibly. Only after thoroughly cleaning the PWM trace, the problem finally appeared.

There was a micrometer scale break in the trace, completely invisible when it was dirty. It's believed to have been there since the board was made. The board was made with a dedicated buck converter for the servo. An xacto nicked it while cutting a wire to the buck converter. The oldest photo is too small & dark, but some grotesque unsharping reveals 3 slightly brighter pixels in a row where the break was spotted later.

The break only cost $35 in unnecessary new servos. The previous $150 of servos were bought during the lunchbox days to solve common wear. Fixing it required soldering a jumper wire, despite such a small break. Merely tinning it wouldn't do the job.

With the electronicals working again, it became clear that the steering is still loose. This PID controller might need a highpass filter.
Posted by NELICOPTER | Sep 15, 2021 @ 08:52 PM | 9,381 Views
Over the last couple years I've had a Sailfly-X, Mobula 7, and Crux3.
While seeking performance improvements and a replacement frame for the Crux 3 I started mucking around with 3d printing Aerodynamic motor pods strung together with carbon fibre rods.

Currently I am using ABS and 1mm solid carbon rods. The designs are my own and I used tinkercad. They hold the motors captive so in the 3 inch frame for example, they allow for only one screw to be used rather than 2 or 4 screws, saving 1-2 grams of AUW on top of the 1.8g of the crux.

The durability of the frames is yet to be fully determined but I crashed the smaller frame and broke the camera but not the frame.

My 65mm prop size frame is only 1.8 grams (compared to a mobula 7 frame which weighs 4.4 grams) and uses Mobula components. The AUW is currently 18.5g with a trashy 1.7g camera. Soon I will have the EX0802 motors which will shave off another 0.5 of a gram, and if I get a diamond fc then I will shave off about another gram, a runcam nano 3 will reduce it by 0.6

The 3 inch frame weighs 3.8 grams compared to the stock 5.6 grams.

I have more parts coming

This project is very much a work in progress, more is to come.