A 3D printed DIY slider upgrade designed for RadioMaster TX16. The solutions has the following advantages (and probably some drawbacks too ;=))

• Adjustable slider traction
• Protected operation
• Increased visibility
• Easy installation

Demo video =>

DIY Slider upgrade for designed for RadioMaster TX16 (0 min 47 sec)

STL files may be found here.

Additional posts containing detailed information about the design and included parts etc will follow

Well, I have replaced my Jumper T16 transmitter with a Radiomaster TX16S transmitter. Consequently, I have modified my stick protector design to work for TX16S. However, the design is no longer compatible and hence this is why I start this separate entry to document applicable design changes.

The basic design is still the same i.e. the T16 demo video and design tips are basically valid.

STL files will be posted here.

Additional posts showing the new design details will be posted soon ...

Hello,

I have been thinking of obtaining TX stick protectors for a long time. Not only for safer transportation but lately also for easier maintenance i.e. they will be handy when occasionally removing the back cover for fixing issues (yes, I am a Jumper T16 owner ).

Due to the ongoing corona ”issue” I have made a (few) design attempts out of pure boredom.

Before going ahead with the design effort I did I quick search and found similar solutions (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3191975) but none with the flexibility I needed.

The resulting stick protector is specifically designed to fit Spektrum DX8/DX9 and Jumper T16 transmitters. This is acomplished by having different diameters at key distances from the gimbal faceplate. The stick protector will probably fit quite a few additional transmitter types (but this has not been confirmed).

Attached is a short demo of the resulting design. I may to do a few follow-up posts just to document the design …

Flexible quick lock and release stick protector (1 min 21 sec)

... but I am having a ball with these micro quads and specifically the racerstar 1103/8000kv motors.

More info about the motors may be found here and here .

Hi,

Just thought I share a high level design of "floating" air gate solution that is both cheap and easy to build. It may take a little effort to set up i.e. it is probably best suitable for a more long term "fixed" installations. The design basically relies on rigid and flexible (rubber) ropes. The attached pictures explains the details.

Below is a video featuring the air gate in action .

Backyard Cheating (Practicing) (0 min 58 sec)

...Continue Reading

Attached is a few pictures of my latest creation. I wanted a compact 250 FPV racing quad with the capability to carry a "cube" shaped HD recorder. I also wanted it to be fairly robust to reasonable mishaps. It is based on a standard ZMR 250 CF frame which I disrespectfully chopped off the "ass", lowered and performed some extensive nose surgery.

Attached is a few pictures of the finished result. More info about details and a short video demonstrating the awesomeness of the Ninjaflex semiflex filament will follow (feel free to ask for specifics )
Cheers





...Continue Reading

Hey Guys,

Here is my first attempt to design a VTX/Antenna saver for the ZMR 250 frame. I have already have great success with the saver for my custom quad (see https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7&postcount=10) but wanted something simpler and lighter for my ZMR 250 backup quad.

The system consist of three parts. The most important one is a holder for the video antenna which "snaps" on to the two rear posts of the ZMR frame. The second part is a 4" coax allowing the antenna to move freely or in other words allowing the antenna to be ripped off from the frame. The last part (which may be realized in different ways depending on the individual build) is a holder for the VTX providing strain relief for the SMA connector.

The current design has been 3D printed and optimized for a quite flexible filament (e.g. bridge). Other more stiffer material will also work but requires a slightly modified design (e.g. ABS).

Below is a demo and a few pictures explaining the basic concept of the design. Please note that the design may need to be adjusted after being "proven in battle". Up until then I will not release the design.

Cheers!

ZMR 250 - VTX/Antenna saver demo (0 min 38 sec)

Hey all,

Finally finished with my second multirotor (well almost).

I call it the "Little Red Devil". It is a scratchbuild quad based on a more or less traditional frame design but with features realized with the aid of 3D printing techniques.

It is a 250 FPV racer with the following sample features:

• Dual servo assisted Pitch Gimbal (both the FPV and HD cam are actuated)
• Integrated "VTX and antenna saver"
• Protective Cage
• Backward swept arms (arrow shape)
• 10 deg angled motor mount
• Addressable RGB leds

Other Equipment =>

• DYS18065
• Afro 12A ESC
• AOMWAY 5.8 GHz VTX
• AOMWAY 5.8G 3dBi Four Lobe RHCP Antenna
• Naze32/Cleanflight
• Mobius HD Cam
• Sony Super HAD CCD 600TVL cam (2.8 mm lens)
• Gimal servo Hitec HS-5035HD
• Lemon diversity RX (8 CH DSMX PPM)

I have not really been able to fully evaluate the dual pitch gimbal as I am still mostly flying LOS trying to tune PIDs (all new to naze32/cleanflight).

Attached is a few pictures and two short demo videos.

More details may be found here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2420195

Custom 250 FPV Racing Quad - Demo of VTX/Antenna Saver (1 min 3 sec)

Custom 250 FPV Racing Quad - Demo of dual cam pitch gimbal (0 min 40 sec)

...Continue Reading

Hi folks,

I am all into 3D planes but figured I should at least try out FPV racing to find out what all the fuss is about. I guess being a “builder” and a tech enthusiast makes the challenges and opportunities to learn new things provided by a FPV 250 racing quad hard to resist .

Anyway, I had a basic idea of combining aluminum beams with CF to address both strength requirements and the need for a compact yet “roomy” design. I have no idea how this will work out in practice but here are a few pictures of the prototype design.

Equipment:

• 4 x iPower MT1806 2300kv
• GemFan Nylon Props
• 4 x ZTW Spider 12A Opto
• ZTW UBEC 3A
• CC3D Flight Controller
• Turnigy Nano Tech 3S/1500mA lipo
• Spektrum DMSX Satellite RX
• TX Controlled LED Ramps (2 x 3 Xlamp E2/G series LEDs @ 75 mA each)
• ImmersionRC 600mW, 5.8 GHz VTX
• ImmersionRC SpiroNet Antenna V2
• Fatshark 600TVL High Resolution FPV Tuned CMOS Camera
• Mobius ActionCam 1080p

AUW ~ 503 gram

PS If anyone is interested I can post a few details later DS

Details now added

Hi Guys

Last indoor season I bought a really awesome motor for a 32" indoor foamie (Tiger Motor AT1804). The motor weigh merely 12.5g has a Kv of 1800 rpm/V and a performance almost equal to the much bigger AT2204 sibbling which weigh 20g (also with a kv of 1800 rmp/V). However, the motor mount turned out to be very weak and it broke on the very first agressive ground attack. Unfortnately it turned out that motor was a special/limited F3P edition which sold out very quickly.

Anyhow, I concluded that it would be very difficult to repair so I bought another motor and put the AT1804 in a dark drawer and had almost forgot all about it. That is until recently when I bought a RC Factory/Twisted Hobbys EPP 32" SU 29 super lite foamie and realized that the special edition AT1804 probably would be a perfect match.

Thus, I decided to perform some advanced surgery and fix the motor mount. Attached are a few pictures with explanations. Hopefully someone with the same problem may find them useful.

Cheers,
Leif

... I finally cleaned out and re-organized my garage and voila I now have my own indoor flying site .

Flying in the garage (2 min 38 sec)

Hey guys,

I recently had a (too long) streak of stripped tail servos. This all occured with my latest 32" 3D foamie which has a much improved stiffness of the connection between the tails servos and the corresponding control surfaces. This may of course be solved by buying a stronger, larger and more robust servo. A problem is that it may be hard to find a servo which is all of the above and at the same time also leightweigh, accurate (and cheap).

Thus, I wanted a solution which may relax at least some of the above requirements. My most important pre-conditions for any feasible solution are:

• Small
• Easy to install
• Low additional weight
• Maintained stiffness between the servo output and the control surface (i.e. not noticable)

The proposed solution is (hardly surprising) a leightweight servo saver. The RC car guys have been using these devices for decades but I felt a little bit of work was necessary to adapt the concept for service in a light weight 3D foamie.

MIssion: DIY servo saver - For service in a Twisted Hobbys / RC Factory 32" MXS-S (2 min 44 sec)

In order to save weight the "ss" is integrated in a typical servo arm extender (c-c 0.75"). Again, to save weigth the parts are unfortunatlety tailor-made and based on existing servo arms. The "ss" is mainly made of thin CF (0.5 mm, no "SS" specific metallic parts have been used). The additional weight is less than 0.5 g but it may be possible to shave off...Continue Reading

Hey guys,

I know that transmitter trays are not very popular in the US but I thought I would humbly share my solutions/experience anyway. Perhaps someone will be inspired. Please feel free to copy anything you might find useful .

I am originally a "thumb guy" but I have realised that if the precision in those thumbs (mine) are a limiting factor then the "tray guys" (typically located on my side of the pond i.e. Europe) may be on to something.

In theory the palm rest will add stability and the potentially longer sticks will enhance the precision .

The downside is that for a notorious thumb guy like me it is hard to come to terms with the ergonomics of the typical commercially available trays. The transmitter is often buried completely in the tray which makes it a requirement to use very long stick which in turn may make it hard to comfortably cover the necessary envelope of movement (short fingers). I also believe that the above drawback may be especially aggravating for 3D-flying where both large and fast movements are required.

Thus, in order to avoid wasting too much money on something that I perhaps would not use I decided to go ahead and make a tray myself. Another reason was that I thought I could perhaps adapt the design so that the ergonomics would be tailor made for yours truly.

The first attempt (made for a DX8) worked out much better than I dared to hope for. I believe by using the tray the flying is now much more relaxed and the...Continue Reading

Hey,

As per request attached is a description regarding how to build a simple LED light kit for lightweight fomies.

Below is a link to a post demonstrating a first prototype:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1944