hi ,dear friend

here is C-RTK review for you , thanks for checking

C RTK new products FROM CUAV (1 min 49 sec)

here is you can check more details :

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...39f3c846NMvmxW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=jG-FfqbHZHk

My Flynano.https://photos.app.goo.gl/7f6qkXAZNuKdnhWy1

My review of this cheap ($28) rock crawler that's actually quite good especially for kids.

YYPLAY YY300 Cheap 1:18 4WD Rock Crawler Review (14 min 21 sec)

power system: jet fan 90 +het 2100 kv
battery 6s : DINOGY 2.0 6S 5000 MAH
exhaust dia reduced to 76 mm
intake cleaned and plywood splitter added.

Stinger 90 EDF on JETFAN90 (3 min 26 sec)

3D TD (4 min 42 sec)

Listen Here

Episode 53: "You Gotta Fight" is now live!

In this episode, our buddy Keith Sparks is back! We talk about:
-The hobby is at risk...again
-Hobby Express lives on
-Keith's new tool
-Keith's Lockheed Costellation
-Keith's B-52 update
-Keith's Byron F-16
-Lee's Cessna update
-Terry's project updates
-Fitz's project updates
-Warbirds over JSC

You can visit our website at RCRoundtable.com to listen over the web or download an MP3 of the show. Or, you can subscribe to RC Roundtable on iTunes.

We would love to read your comments and ideas. Please drop us a line here, our facebook page, or email: contact@rcroundtable.com.

XHOVER WIN5 Gemfan 5152 Tri Huck #5 2018 0402 (2 min 56 sec)

Snow?! Again?! FPV Freestyle (4 min 57 sec)

Another successful maiden to report. Two flights of about 3:30 each on one 6s 4000mAh bat. Both landings seem smooth from my perspective, but from the 3rd person view atop v. stab. , seemed more harsh.

The good:
1. really robust and handsome CNC retracts, rolls true with no play.
2. digital metal gear servos are strong and center very well, already centered out of the box
3. ESC, motor, fan adequate for sport flying and sounds pretty good.
4. many thoughtful details like flexible nose, plastic LEX and intake lip, small parts count that are evident in unboxing/build videos.


Need improvement (the bad - though this could be my personal preference for neutral feel):

1. Recommended CG of 95-105mm is way nose heavy. I balanced mine at 95mm and almost could not rotate before the end of my runway. Just doing a finger push at tail in the pits to test how much force is required to rotate felt excessively nose heavy relative to main gear location. Basically impossible to hold a wheelie like the real one does.

2. Inflight behavior also felt nose heavy as pitch trim varies a lot depending on speed. A well balanced sport plane should require little trim change for vast speed ranges, only pitching down slightly for approach speed; not the case for this FMS F-16. Also inverted nose drop is fast, needing a lot of elevator push to hold level inverted flight.

3. Airplane is super stable, which also results from nose heaviness and the large negative incidence...Continue Reading

Part of the fun this hobby provides is the opportunity to tinker with our aircraft to get the most out of them. For those of us who get restless after a build ends and we've flown it successfully for a while, it only seems natural to start looking for ways to make improvements here or there, or maybe fix those minor problems that catch our attention during a flight. There is, however, that little voice that sounds an alarm: "Don't fix what isn't broken."

After flying my trusted 87" Extra 300 in a number of IMAC contests and racking up over 250 successful flights using my FrSky Taranis Plus transmitter, I wanted to upgrade my gimbals and sticks. I had been using the same transmitter for more than a year and half for all of my planes, and even though I hadn't noticed any wear in the gimbals, I wanted to be sure it was not contributing any slop to my input for precision aerobatics. Also, there were a couple heart thumping moments when I was pulling out of a vertical dive and the right stick (Mode 2) slipped out from my thumb. As a thumb pilot (vs. pinching the sticks with thumb and forefinger) this creates a potentially disastrous situation when pulling out close to the ground, and at best a loss of points in competition. It also causes a loss of confidence that you can maintain control of the aircraft, especially when it is needed most.

With that in mind I removed the stock gimbals that use a potentiometer with small contact brushes that can...Continue Reading

I fly alone 90% of the time, and at least half of that flying is done in my backyard, over, and around a lake. Flying near the water makes me very nervous when wearing goggles, so I decided I needed another option that would give me the benefits of both LOS, and FPV flight. So began my research for putting together an FPV ground station that would be relatively inexpensive, and quick, and easy to set up.

After some web browsing, and a few Google searches, I managed put this little GS together for $40 using items from Amazon, and eBay. So far it has worked flawlessly for me. I'll be taking it to the park with me in the next day or so to see what kind of range I can get out of it. For my yard, and the ball fields across the street it's been great.

Amazon $14 Monitor

Amazon $12 Tripod

$10 eBay 5.8ghz RX

$6 Amazon LCD Voltmeter

I power the unit with an Infinity 1300mah 11.1v LiPo battery that I already had, but any cheap 3s LiPo will do the trick.

The only soldering necessary for this build was to make a pig tail with an XT60 for the battery, and a couple JST connectors for the monitor, voltmeter, and receiver. Everything else is plug and play.

I plan on upgrading the antenna with an Aomway clover leaf in the near future, but as of right now I'm pretty pleased with the way this thing performs for what I have invested.

I will post a few more pics of how I have it all hooked together ASAP. For now here is a pic of the completed build. Feel free to ask any questions you might have if you're looking to build something similar.

Happy Flying!!

I wanted to do something similar to the old Estes USS Atlantis, which was a long star trek themed rocket, I needed to keep weight in the rear at a minimum for a rocket glider so used one warp pod instead of two, and then did shapes as star-trekkie as I could, modified the nose to have the deflector dish inset.

35" long, 22" wingspan, 2.6" diameter, uses MPF for wings and depron for the vertical support with a carbon rod for strength. Weight is 12 oz rtf , glide tests were good.

Halloa boys & girls

so yeah.. HobbyKing released their Tomahawk about a month ago or so? At first I thought: well yes, but I build my own wings.. So I'll just skip it & stuff..
But then I just couldn't resist trying it.. so here we are.. Trying it :P

Link to this plane: Durafly 670mm Tomahawk BNF

And.. here is part one of my review of it..

DutchRC - The New Durafly 670mm Tomahawk mini FPV Wing from Hobbyking :D (15 min 25 sec)

Specifications:
Wingspan: 670mm
Length: 360mm
ESC: AeroStar 20A w/XT60 connector
Motor: Multistar 2206 2150KV Brushless Outrunner
Propeller: 5045BN CCW
Servos: 2 x 9g
Weight: 220g (without battery or FPV gear)

Hi there,

The little Pusher prop Bronco is officialy converted as an experimental plane

I will experiment a 3D printed landing gear system i designed for her and see if it's something that can be used...

Answer... as soon as possible !

I finally built the B2 model I picked up at the GWS moving sale and successfully flew it yesterday. Here's the build thread with how I did it
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...avily-modified

And here's the second flight

GWS B2 highly modified (3 min 41 sec)

Forgot to post this snippet .... atop Lady Sliper .... corro Pilatus .... slopie!

Pilatus in the mist. (0 min 19 sec)

Can kk2.1.5 support ws2812 b led strip .

For review : Nitecore EC22

Product Page @ Nitecore

Nitecore EC22 provided for review by Nitecore



I was looking at flashlights one night ( as I some times do ) and I spied the Nitecore EC22 . Two things grabbed my attention right away , the first being the infinitely variable output and the second was the rotary dial . Never mind the 1000 lumen output or the fact that it it's all put in a very handy package powered by a 18650 or two CR123 . The very first thing I did on receiving the EC22 for review was to take it for a walk . Nope ! , I did not measure current or put it in the light box or anything else . I wanted to experience the EC22 first and then see what the numbers were . When I went for my walk I swung past a friends place and let him and his wife have a play with the EC22 . Now my friend took to the EC22 like a duck takes to water , without any prompts from me he had turned on the light and was adjusting the output . For a non flashaholic to simply use the light so easily tells me that the user interface is universally simple , kind of reminds me of a transistor radio with its rotary dial for on and of and volume control .

After visiting my friend I swung past the local park ( its a big park ) and the great thing is that the road / foot path is raised several meters above the park allowing some one with a flashlight a nice elevated position for shinning a light . For a light with small head and short reflector the EC22 did not...Continue Reading

At first I was getting a flashing red LED on Tx. I sent it to Mike(Dragonlink). It came back & now I get the solid green on Tx. I am now trying to bind to V2 Rx. I hold the bind button & power on the Tx. Yellow/orange light comes on, I release the bind button...rapid flashing yellow/orange LED. I power on the Rx and I get a solid red LED & a flashing green LED. I let sit like this for about a minute(Tx...flashing yellow. Rx....1 solid red LED & 1 flashing green). I power off the Tx. No changes to Rx LEDs. I cycle the Tx and Rx power. Still I have 1 solid red and 1 flashing green on Rx with NO blue light. Solid green LED on the Tx.

Is there a problem with the DL system or am I doing something wrong? Someone please help!!!🙏🙏🙏