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Archive for February, 2019
Posted by VicT | Feb 26, 2019 @ 11:05 PM | 2,669 Views
The Turbo Timber comes stock with a Cirrus 3 bladed 11/7 prop. I wanted to see how my 1.5 Timber would like with a 5 bladed 10/8 prop from the Spitfire. I reamed the prop out to fit the prop adapter and with a longer 3 mm bolt fitted the stock 2 bladed spinner to the prop adapter. Ill have to measure the amp draw so not to exceed the ESC limit.
Turbines can have many blades and here is the Pilatus PC21 5 bladed version
Posted by VicT | Feb 23, 2019 @ 08:40 AM | 2,457 Views
Just measured my Cirrus 22T 1300 KV motor (not the TT 800 KV motor) and on an Aerostar 60 amp RVS ESC and CHNL 4S 1500 100C measured 55 amps and 717 watts static. Looking forward to measuring a 13 prop for amps and watts on the TT. I know prop will unload in the air and should be below the 50 amp ESC spec.
Posted by VicT | Feb 20, 2019 @ 04:00 PM | 2,613 Views
Swapping out the Timber RX for the V900 RX solved the problem of wing rocking at full throttle with SAFE on or off. This is because the V900 was designed to go much faster than the Timber. There is proper pitch and roll with SAFE on at full speed and at slow speeds.
I recommend the V900 RX instead of the Timber RX for the AVISTAR ELITE.

Specs:
Rimfire 46
(Max constant amps 60, max surge 100 amps) max constant watts 1100, max surge watts 1850
With a 13x4 APC 72 amps and 1400 watts measured

Castle Edge 100 amp ESC
Turnigy Graphene 5S 5000 lipos
Posted by VicT | Feb 18, 2019 @ 01:06 AM | 2,711 Views
I purchased a used Heron and installed an AR 636 programmed for the EFlite Spitfire. Ive flown both and so I purchased an open stock AR636 but had Horizon put the program in for me. I installed the RX so the long coaxial antenna would go forward and all the wires would be tucked away aft. I had to install inline reversers on rudder, elevator, and aileron to get proper Self Level servo movement. Later I can program the receiver to reverse those RX channels and remove the inline reversers. The RX is very close to the CG and a 2200 3S Admiral Lipo can fit under the RX if an aft CG is desired. I flew the maiden with the pack forward so the restrainer strap would keep the pack from sliding.

The maiden was at sunset and was only 3 minutes long but it was enough to put down elevator trim in to fly hands
off. Then I turned on Self Level to verify proper correction. Flaps were lowered and confirmed that down elevator trim will be needed to pitch down with Self Level On. She will fly very similar to my Multiplex Cularis with its AR 636 SAFE Select Receiver....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Feb 10, 2019 @ 02:27 AM | 2,951 Views
A top battery door and compartment for any model offers a more convenient method to load and remove your battery pack because you don't have to pick the model up and hold it inverted. With a belly door there is greater risk of the door opening because of G loading from inside loop and landing G forces. I've seen many planes flying around with the battery hanging down being held only by the connectors! Those are the lucky ones as battery separation means a loss of control and crash damage. Battery back up methods are highly recommended but won't be discussed here. Converting the stock belly battery door to a top door can be done with a little effort and time. TheTimber 1.5 and 1.2 meter wingspan designs are discussed here.
The battery door is cut just forward of the Timber windscreen. The thinnest part of the pack gets loaded first at an angle. Once the pack is inside there is plenty of room for fore/aft CG adjustment using foam blocks as spacers. Inside the former battery compartment is the larger 60 amp Turnigy Aerostar RVS (reversible) ESC but the stock ESC will fit as well. A balsa plywood floor/ceiling separated the top battery compartment from the bottom ESC compartment and offers increased structural strength between the fuselage sides and the motor mount area and the landing gear area.

As of Feb 2019 the following pics show the different packs that can be loaded thru the top hatch. Refer to Horizon Hobby Airplane Technical people to find the largest 3 or 4 cell pack that will fit in the stock Timbet belly door. Any of those should fit the thru the modified top door and top battery compartment.
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Posted by VicT | Feb 07, 2019 @ 11:56 PM | 3,729 Views
Why hinge the canopy? Even though there are 4 magnets holding the canopy to the fuselage you know that eventually they will lose their strength or the glue will fail and the canopy will depart when you are flying. The hinge and latch are a redundant method of keeping the canopy attached to the fuselage in case one or all magnets fail. Having the canopy attached to the fuselage eliminates the canopy being blown off the table or onto the ground with a gust of wind.

Previously I usedTyvek paper hinges glued with CA as a hinge and they worked fine for about 30 or 40 opening and closings. However my plane holder overstressed the rear hinge and rather than replace the torn hinge I replaced the front and aft paper hinges with Robart hinge pins. The plastic is ribbed and a steel axle is rugged. I used a 1/8 drill to make the holes in the fuselage and canopy and low temp hot glue to keep them from coming out. See pics
Posted by VicT | Jan 31, 2019 @ 09:51 PM | 3,677 Views
The Night Radian fuselage twists left and right and is OK. But if you are used to stiffer foamy motorglider fuselages like the Multiplex or Flyzone designs then here is an alternative to clear or fiberglass tape. Materials needed are 1/64 thick plywood and Loctite Plastic Mender epoxy. Midwest Products sells 1/64 x 12 x 24 via Amazon for $24.61 and can last a long time for strong lightweight reinforcement projects. A 16 long x 25 mm wide piece is all you need for reinforcement. A box cutter slices the fuselage about 11 mm deep at the tail end and 25 mm deep at the thick fuselage end.

Place a straight edge on one side of the fuselage (see pic) and use a box cutter to make multiple cuts or slices deep into the fuselage. You dont have to go all the way through to the other side. Measure the cut to 11 and 25 mm deep. Fit the ply into the slot and push in as far as you can go. Mark the excess sticking out and cut just inside the marked line. This will ensure the ply is not outside the soft foam but insides. Any mark or slot can be filled with lightweight modeling sparkling putty. Since CA needs air to dry and there will be very little air at this joint use Loctite Plastic Epoxy as this will harden without any air to the joint. The epoxy will also give you plenty of time to position the plywood unlike CA that can harden in a few seconds. I weighed the plywood before epoxy and it was 1 gram. I smeared epoxy on both sides of the ply but did not weigh it. I estimate the epoxy at 1 gram for a total of about 2 grams weight. I usually use 3M 20 or 40 X clear packing tape know that this would weigh more if wrapped around the fuselage area. My fuselage had a slight left twist that required right rudder trim. After the plywood was inserted into the sliced fuselage I used the clear tape to pull the fuselage into an opposite twist to counter the warped fuselage.