KristofferR's blog View Details
Posted by KristofferR | Apr 09, 2019 @ 02:52 PM | 746 Views
The kit has been warming a shelf for many months. I got started a few days ago,

Initial impressions of the build is slightly daunting, partly due to the very informative manual detailing every step and the somewhat unique rear servo installation. My Emax ES08MA servos required some slight cutting of both the plastic and fuse Elapor to fit.

Progress went fine otherwise.

Sorting the wing connectors took a while, I made my own from M6 connectors, cables and servo connectors. There is a kit available from MPX, 1-00112 and it’s pretty decent value at €20-ish.

Most difficult part was putting the fuse halves together. I used Zacki CA and UHU Por. With Por there is some time to adjust everything.

There is one mistake you could avoid: The square carbon bar is supposed to go 18mm into the motor mount and fixed with CA. Pushing it in, the glue set instantly and I tried to adjust but overcoming the glue grip I had the bar sliding in and out until it ended att 22mm and refused to move.

A trick I always use building MPX is to scratch up the surfaces that are glued; be it Elapor or plastic. A knife and a coarse file does it. In particular I do this to the control horns. They have fallen off on MPX RR models but never from any of my builds.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 30, 2019 @ 07:01 PM | 1,052 Views
It took a while to get there, it has been wind and rain or sun and doldrums or just plain storm level winds.

We had five planes between us; FMS Mimimoa, MPXFunglider, Vladimir Elf, Hacked Vagabond XL and a TopModel Swish.

The damp air, 7 deg C and the wind was brutal and somewhat choppy.

The Vagabond was definitely the star of today, loving it up close and appeared less agitated by the choppy wind.

The Elf did good and is crazy fast when necessary but it was very hard sometimes to ascertain its direction. See- through wings looks really good but I had several spinning ballerina moments....
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 25, 2019 @ 05:55 AM | 973 Views
Overhaul time!

Complete dismantle. Plastics went in a bucket and then boiling water and green soap. After a few repeats, a hot cycle in the dishwasher.

Screws, bearings and shafts have been “swimming” in WD40 for cleaning.

With everything clean and nice it’s time
to print the exploded views from the Traxxas website and start reassembling.

I intend to use a metal gear servo so I took apart the stock 2055 servos, cleaned and greased them up and let them sit with the servo tester for an hour before putting them on local eBay.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 19, 2019 @ 02:17 AM | 1,401 Views
Progress has been somewhat erratic.

After a lot of googling and eBay searching I found a local store, and they had ONE motor mount left. Since I already realised that a bent aluminium plate would not be sufficient - the Revo chassis tab can easily be flexed by hand and any motor mount that does not use the “arms” connected to the central part will move and vary the mesh - I decided to buy one.

Now I have embarked on a motor/ESC combo search. A Hobbywing EZRun combo is currently on top, but the $150 is slightly hard to stomach for this budget ride. But it is also an LHS option which IMHO could be more valuable than cutting $20 off the price. Until I press buy what remains is just classic overhaul action.

Picture show diffs being torn down.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 09, 2019 @ 09:34 AM | 2,995 Views
The Revo is getting an electric powertrain.

After looking at various motor mounts for inspiration I put that to rest and decided to open the gearbox.

It is a two speed + reverse with freewheel.

First gear has a tiny freewheel with cams that tighten on the shaft. The second gear uses a freewheel with a spring-loaded arm that pops out due to centrifugal force and grips the cog.

The first gear is no longer necessary, as the low speed torque from the intended electric motor should be way more than anything the 2.5 nitro can put out.

Therefore I removed first gear entirely, and bolted up the freewheel to the second gear. Three notches were cut with a hacksaw and Dremel.

The reverse gear was removed too. I drilled out and bolted the drum to the primary gear - forward gear always. Then removed everything else. There is a notable lash in the stock solution, probably to allow reverse to engage without a synchronised drum.

With everything tight, the electric motor should be able to both accelerate and brake the car. The mechanical brake was removed too....Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 04, 2019 @ 11:56 PM | 1,868 Views
Like the previous HBX, I was given this old nitro Revo.

After several cleanups of the car, I tried to wake the electronics. Two servos were stuck, so I took them all apart and cleaned and greased them up, then did a light overhaul of the rest of the car but I never got around to actually running the engine and the car has been warming the shelf.

I even tried to sell it but offers in the $50 region just made me tired. Eventually I realised I did not want to run nitro. I left that on my RC aircraft 20 years ago.

This weekend I decided to rip out the glow engine parts and embark on an electric conversion.
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 13, 2019 @ 11:59 AM | 5,874 Views
Car time again!

This was given to me by a relative of my ex wife. It spent time collecting dust on the shelf, since I did not know what to do with it and did not have the Super Motivation (pun) to use it myself. Eventually, it turned out that my cousin wanted an RC for his young kid. YAY! Good reason to go ahead.

As usual, I went over the car, cleaned it, checked for damage, adjusted things and then tried it. With some fresh batteries and some cleaning, it worked, but pretty badly. I though the batteries were the problem but after lots of experimenting including some LiPO attempts it turned out that the LM-406FB ESC just did not want to work - sometimes it would, but it would just drop and stutter during load. I tried different motor, servo, RX, batteries and another ESC and it was always the original ESC that refused to work. I took it apart to look for broken solders or faults but did not find anything and then it died completely on me. In went a Tamiya TBLE-02 and suddenly the car went muuuuch better.

Among other things I did was to adjust the servo saver which had a horrible slop in the neutral position, which made it impossible to drive straight. After that just general work like tightening screws, cleaning etc. The original plate that held the ESC was cut and glued to make a splash-proof ESC room in the chassis.

And, the chassis. The car is surprisingly nice to drive - it is after all a close (carbon?) copy of a Tamiya TL01. The only thing giving away the cheap...Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Dec 30, 2018 @ 01:44 AM | 5,369 Views
Not really RC, this. Still fun and very mechanical. It’s a bit like working on old servos ...

After restoring my cousins little Märklin locomotive with good success another FOUR landed on my desk.

There is not much to these little items - knocking out the pins holding the wheels gears and then the usual stuff like cleaning gears (filing the teeth, rubbing etc to get them perfectly smooth) polishing the commutator, soldering up the cables etc.

The electromechanical direction switch relay is probably the most intricate part.
I used some LiPO batteries in series to set it up....

The old track built in 1958 still works fine. Looking forward to locomotion in 2019.
Posted by KristofferR | Aug 25, 2018 @ 02:04 PM | 6,192 Views
This is me driving and filming my 1:10 Traxxas Summit up a local clifftop. It is very steep, perilous to walk up when wet and plain difficult in the dry. The Summit is a peculiar car. The individual suspension, lockable diffs and the hi/lo gears gives a range of use that is matched by few other RC:s. It is basically good at most things but not really the best at anything. The fantastic suspension articulation sometimes makes it difficult to find terrain that really challenges the car. I run my completely stock and use it as a trail truck and hiking companion. The only negative thing is that it is heavy to carry when the batteries are depleted. Bring an extra set to make it all the way!

Camera, driving, editing: Kristoffer
Location: Billdal, Sweden
Equipment: Traxxas Summit, Turnigy2000
Edited in Wondershare Filmora

Traxxas Summit 1:10 crawling and climbing (3 min 58 sec)

Posted by KristofferR | Aug 22, 2018 @ 02:46 PM | 5,627 Views
I am fortunate enough to be able to walk to a suitable field. Yesterday I took the tx in one hand and the FunCub in the other and enjoyed a late evening flight in still air. As dark replaced light I ended up lower and closer, finally getting some moonlight flight. It is a joy to fly the Cub, and the big wheels are perfect for grass landings.
Posted by KristofferR | Aug 10, 2018 @ 01:10 PM | 6,483 Views
Wow, just wow. I got into DLG with the Alula and managed once to throw it hard enough to watch it fall apart in the air. But I enjoyed it a lot.

The ELF, well it is something else. On paper it should be, the price, the carbon fiber, the competition breeding. And it is. Even on my first exploratory throws, late evening in still air, I got the thing to thermal. Seven supertight circles, staying up at three meters. Addictive.

This ELF is used - I’m the third owner. The fuse is repaired which added 15% to the AUW. My RX-5 from Multiplex was a press fit and I used some screws from a Traxxas to fit the wing cleanly. I still don’t have the guts to really launch it but I’m building up to it. I also expect it to slope great in light winds.
Posted by KristofferR | Jul 14, 2018 @ 02:23 AM | 6,218 Views
The sun was beaming down and the temperature about 28 degrees. We’re used to icy damp winds and this was a relief.

Seppo brought his new Ahi, his Alula and a modified ST Salto. He was extraordinary with the Salto. Seppo has a reputation for being one of the best pilots in the area but this was the first time I have seen him letting loose and it was a joy.

I had my Funglider out, and there was immense thermals on top of the slope winds. Twice I had to dive out to avoid specking out.

Dan flew a mash-up RE balsa glider but when we launched his glass Tabasco it crashed, luckily with no damage.

In all, an awesome slope day.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 11, 2018 @ 02:56 PM | 6,093 Views
The Funcub needed some colour.

I used the included kit stickers, cut and moved them around to get a little more strict look than stock. Result in the pictures.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 09, 2018 @ 11:37 AM | 6,901 Views
Tech Toys V24 RC Boat, brushless conversion.

The V24 is a toygrade boat. A friend gave it to me, it had dead electronics. I have since bought a stock V24 but it is very boring. The brushless is faster, more quiet and smoother to steer Most of the gear is leftovers from cars and planes. The servo is not a noname, I swapped it for a leftover Dymond wing servo.

Hull: Tech Toys V24
Rudder: Banggood "blue anodized"
Propeller: 35 mm plastic
Shaft: Banggood, Stainless
Motor/ESC: Racerstar 540 combo, Banggood
Servo: Dymond
LiPO: 2s Zippy Flightmax 2200mAh
Radio: Radiolink RC4GS

Tech Toys V24 RC Boat, brushless conversion (2 min 56 sec)

I have added a simple watercooling since this test.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 09, 2018 @ 02:25 AM | 7,008 Views
Months ago I finished a Tech Toys V24 boat given to me as a hull - electronics no longer working. I put leftover parts from a car into it and this week I tried it in the sea. During the time my modded V24 sat on the shelf, a used one popped up locally and was mine for €18.

The power in the mod one is a 2s 2200mAh Lipo and a Racerstar 540 brushless motor/esc combo from a car. A 12g servo does helmsman duty. Propeller, propeller shaft, rudder are new items from Banggood. I looked at pics of similar boats and selected sizes and put the parts where it looked right.

In the bathroom sink the modded boat felt about as strong as the stock one, splashing surprising amounts of water everywhere.

The stock V24 I tested with a stock 6-cell NiMH setup. It was not particularly fast, and the sound was dreadful too, but it looked nice in the water.

The modded one was fast. Very fast. It struggled at first gurgling around at slow speed and not turning well and after some exploratory turns I opened up full throttle. Once up on the step it took off like a shot, with little more than the propeller in the water. Whoo! Being new to boats, I turned too hard and the boat flipped and rolled a complete lap. It jumped on the waves too and after some passes the top lid fell off.

So, the lid needs securing, a better battery tray, more steering throw for low speed handling and ... that should do it. Back to the building board!

The stock v24 I gave one more chance with the lightest 6-cell I had but it is just slow, way too toy-grade and crude to control. Despite some attempts to silence it the sound is unpleasant. I might keep it as a spare hull, perhaps.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 07, 2018 @ 10:44 AM | 6,698 Views
Premiere flight!

Wind has died out, sun is down and mosquitoes had me for dinner.

The FunCub has become one of the all time classics and it’s easy to understand why: Excellent flight characteristics and control harmony, goes insanely slow, easy to fly but fully aerobatic.

Usually on a first flights it’s jitters and controls tuning. This time I did spins, inverted flight, stall turns and just enjoyed the flight and forgot it was the maiden! Both touchdowns at my feet. >400W ensures spectacular climbs too.

Also it was my first proper flight with the Multiplex Cockpit SX9. Very happy with this radio and for me, the rollers felt very natural.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 06, 2018 @ 05:34 AM | 6,531 Views

In my ever-growing hangar of Multiplex models is now the Funcub. I got the kit version from my fb who originally bought it for spares.

The build was pretty straightforward, instructions clear and precise, though I actually stumbled on some things - in particular the rear wheel install requires some thought. A pro tip is to just remove the center spread with the instruction figures to be able to read in your preferred language and look at the figures at the same time!

I would recommend waiting to install the elevator and rudder snakes until after the tail is done. The ”cut to length” instruction only made sense after I had them installed.

Servo choice were Emax ES08MA all around. They are not identical to Multiplex recommended items, so the crevices in the fuselage for the rudder and elevator were a bit too large. I took the opportunity to glue some hard balsa to create a tight fit and finished it with screws for good measure.

I also did the removable tail mod I found here at RCGroups, inserting a threaded wood block in the fin and a nylon screw from underneath.

Just for good measure I put some carbon strips in the fuse before gluing it together. I have done this to several of my Elapor models and they become very stiff, almost balsa-like.

The only receiver I had available was a Multiplex DR-6 so the dual flap servos use a Y-cable. Rather than buying an electronic-servo-reversing-gadget I cut out the wing to fit one flap servo the other way...Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Apr 29, 2018 @ 02:28 AM | 7,782 Views
The first mod on my TRX4 Bronco:

Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear on the hardtop. Masking tape, newspaper, spray.

I cleaned the body with dishsoap and water and then used a (synthetic) deerskin to wipe it off. Rattle can heated in a small bucket of warm water. Two layers. Let it sit for a day before spraying the second one.

Pleased with the result! The ”tinted” rear windows appears a lot better now.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 16, 2018 @ 02:08 PM | 6,296 Views
A used Summit for sale appeared temptingly on a local site. It has long been on my wishlist and I decided to go for it. Completely stock and in good condition, save for two of the four LiPO:s that had, according to my voltmeter, been stored fully charged and were quite swollen. NiMH:s were fine.

Driving the Summit was interesting. The appearance was familiar as I have had two 1/16 Summit VXL:s before. The increase in scale and the low/hi gears and lockable diffs were unfamiliar though. The big Summit has a better CG for its width and length than the small one and it really showed - it almost clung to steep cliffs.

With locked diffs and low gear it was tremendously capable and easily mastered one of my favourite difficult trails. Walking back on the wide gravel road, the high gear and open diff setting allowed me to slide around and send jumps of different obstacles.

I got about 40 minutes of driving on the stock NiMH batteries which is very impressive too.

The first drive - well lets say this drives exactly like the videos show. As a trail companion it is probably perfect, mixing a bit of crawl, a bit of trail and a bit of bash equally well.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 07, 2018 @ 03:07 PM | 6,640 Views
The Stampede is a good truck but one of several things I wish Traxxas would adress is the rear body post design. I have three of these bodies and they all crack, quickly and in the same place.

A bit of google work led me to an excellent test at rctech by MailManX.

1-2 layers of drywall tape and a liberal smearing of Shoe-Goo (ventilate, ventilate!!) and the crack propagation should stop.

I got my drywall tape at ClasOhlson, the ShoeGoo at CDON (Gå ClasOhlson is a hardware store and CDON is a portal like Amazon. Now just have to find an equivalent to ”rubberized undercoating” in Sweden....