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Posted by yqrninja | Feb 19, 2019 @ 03:18 PM | 1,577 Views
We are in the middle of winter here on the Canadian prairies, coldest February in 130 years, and no real break in site. The Arthobby Odyssey ECL project has been stalled since the fall when I tackled a couple big house hold projects. I am glad that those projects are done, any very happy to stop making daily visits to Home Depot. I need to have this bird ready for warmer weather.

Next step was to cut the control surfaces. I read the instructions and reviewed the process by watching Sorenís video, and it was helpful.
Arthobby wing, aileron/flaps cut (5 min 34 sec)
. In the end itís not difficult, however compared to what I am used to building it is very different. While we are on the subject, I was confused by the drawing and instructions compared to what I saw on other peopleís Odyssey pictures. Pictures of others Odyssey showed no gap between flap and aileron. I was confused because the drawings are different. SoÖ.I posted a question on RCGroups (#4200 Ö https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...thread/page280 ) regarding control surfaces. In the end, I just followed the drawing.

Next is cutting out the servo bays and building the servo boxes, again I was careful not to get carried away with epoxy, reminding myself of the goal of keeping this thing as light as possible. I nearly skipped the step when epoxying a servo bay sized piece of fiberglass in the servo bay. But I did it anyway, using the paper towel method of soaking up excess epoxy, resulting in just a...Continue Reading
Posted by yqrninja | Oct 02, 2018 @ 10:46 AM | 2,743 Views
Over the weekend I completed the Lacquering. . . . I was worried about this step. Worried about how to apply it, worried about ruining the finish, and worried about how much weight it would add to the air-frame. As a complete rookie lacquering for the very first time, how did i do? Pretty good actually, it really is dead simple.
Here in Canada, Deft is not easy to find, I chose Watco brand rattle can (Satin finish). Other builders have had success using it, and it was available from the local Home Depot. The instructions call for a brush on method, spray-on or Brush either is good.

Step 1: Lightly spray wing with 1:1 Ratio of water & Rubbing alcohol to raise the wood grain. let it dry.
Step 2: Lightly sand surface with 400 grit sandpaper
Step 3: Apply coat #1 Lacquer.
Step 4: Lightly sand surface with 400 grit sandpaper
Step 5: Apply coat #2 Lacquer.
Step 6: Lightly sand surface with 400 grit sandpaper
Step 7: Lightly sand surface with 600 grit sandpaper
Step 8: Apply coat #3 Lacquer.
Step 9: Paint
Step 10: light sand with 600, and 4th coat of lacquer over painted wind tips to protect the paint.

As for weight, The wing before lacquer began at 402g ended at 418.5g after 4 coats. 16.5 g added, I wish it was less. It is what it is. Considering the size of this glider its not so bad.. I still have to add paint to ascent markings. Lessons learned. If I where to do it again I would apply any paint after the 2nd coat of lacquer, then finish it all...Continue Reading
Posted by yqrninja | Sep 24, 2018 @ 10:49 PM | 2,805 Views
Sunday: The task for today is to fiberglass the wing center joint at the root. This is a pretty critical step for this glider, because this will provide all the strength when pulling G's. Unlike some old school kits that I have built in the past, there is no dihedral brace. This is where all the pieces literally come together to create a bond greater than the individual parts. Using Painters tape I taped off the border to prevent epoxy from getting to places I don't want epoxy to be. This kit calls for a 35mm strip of fiberglass (Medium), and a 50mm strip of lighter weight 3/4 oz glass cloth covering the heavy glass strip. I have never used this method of adhering both glass strips at the same time. I like it, it worked well.

If you haven't guessed by now that I am obsessed with weight, I am a big believer that a lighter plane flies better. I have made this mistake before when glassing center joints by using fast cure epoxy like a 5 or 15 minute, I won't make it again. Use slow cure epoxy (thin like maple syrup), use as much epoxy to wet out the glass completely. At this stage you are going to think you have put on too much but its OK, use paper towel to soak up the excess epoxy. This will do two things. Push the cloth against the surface, and gets rid of unnecessary and heavy epoxy. Paper towel is the most important tool for this job. Just be patient, soak up epoxy little by little until the excess is gone. You will be able to tell by looking at it, there should be no...Continue Reading
Posted by yqrninja | Sep 23, 2018 @ 11:51 PM | 2,515 Views
Saturday nights job is to carve out the foam at the wing roots to accept the wing bolt blocks and join the wing half's. I think primarily this is to provide some support the wing bolts and prevent crushing. Blocks are less than 5g. Carving the blocks only takes a few minutes on the belt sander. Take it little by little until satisfied. I am happy with the way it all fit together.

Supporting one end of a wing up with a scrap piece of foam, up to the blue print specs to get the right amount of dihedral, and epoxying it together. This time I needed a thicker epoxy, lightened with some micro-balloons. I was careful again not to go crazy with the epoxy when gluing wing half's and blocks. It is tempting to squish in a lot of epoxy and glue it together. However lots of epoxy does not equal more strength. Strength at the wing joint comes from the fiberglass center joints. (Tomorrows job). I measured the before and after weights, the epoxy cost me another 1.6g.

Also.......I found a wonderful beer by Black Bridge Brewers, these guys know how to make an IPA. Outstanding. I can have a beer on a Saturday.
Posted by yqrninja | Sep 23, 2018 @ 11:26 PM | 2,420 Views
Friday evenings job is to glass the wing edges. This is to support the carbon rods to the tip extensions. I will be building the Odyssey in the dihedral configuration. Using as little epoxy as possible. Wet it out then using paper towel to pick up the excess. I am using slow cure epoxy from a company called Raka (raka.com), I had some left over from another project and it is wonder stuff to work with, high viscosity compared to the hobby store stuff. This should allow me to keep the epoxy pretty thin.
Posted by yqrninja | Sep 23, 2018 @ 10:53 PM | 2,190 Views
Fall 2018 Odyssey ECL (the "L" is for Light) build log.

After a couple of years of following the ArtHobby thread, and watching anything I could on YouTube about the ArtHobby gliders I ordered the Odyssey. I struggled with pure glider verses electric assist. I e-mailed Andre, and he advised that the new light weight version was about to be released. The new ECL version was quickly shipped and delivered in less than 7 days.

Electronics:
Castle 25 ESC/Bec
Art1300 (capable of lifting a 1300g air frame),
Rx a Lemon 0052 (Vario Altimeter-Telemetry)
Battery 800MAh 3 Cell Lipo battery.

The projected weight for this version of the Odyssey, according to the website, is estimated at 900g. I am skeptical at hitting that target as everything that I have seen on the web is greater than 1100-1200g.

So how does the ECL measure up so far? Individually the raw parts before assembly weight in at 944.56g, The big unknown, is how much the glue, lacquer and paint is going to weigh? This is known as builders bloat. I am going to do my best to track every little thing and I will keep this blog post up-to date with all the data to save you the trouble of digging through my long winded posts.

The Weigh-In
Battery 80.38g
Esc 23.52g
Servos 69.6g
Rx 12g
Fuselage with motor 184.16g
Carbon Boom 38.79g
Parts bag(s) 39.42g
Control Rods 20g
Servo covers 8.18g
Servo Wire 10g
Micro Deans connectors 9.96g
Fiber glass cloth 10.13g
Vertical Stab and Rudder 42.42g
Horitontal Stab and...Continue Reading