kiwi_craig's blog View Details
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 22, 2016 @ 02:34 AM | 7,816 Views
Feiyue FY 03 upgrade part 4. Steering geometry

Fitting up the billet steering arms etc on the brushless car i noticed an improvement to the geometry - less toe in than stock. Transpires the billet arms have an offset sperical bearing, the extra height improved the geometry relative to the bottom arm which sets the steering geometry basically.

Most of you have noticed that the steering toes in as it compresses. Looking at the reason is pretty simple and the cure equally easy. Basically the steering arm needs to be parrellel to the bottom arm over the majority of the suspension arc, if you look front on the steering arm is steeper and as the suspension compresses it pushes the steering arm at the wheel end outwards and creates toe in.

The fix is dead simple, space the steering arm end point upwards at the wheel end and downwards on the steering rack.

The magic number, 2.35mm......... Which was the width of some prop spacers i had ! I think going to 2.5mm sure wouldnt hurt longer cap head bolts needed.
Posted by kiwi_craig | Sep 11, 2016 @ 01:50 AM | 5,722 Views
perfect afternoon so took a box of helis to the park - the V930 huey flew beautifully, the XK X110 tail motor and blade worked a treat for the tail hold. HP05C main motor works nice and you can hear the RPM in. overall I calling this a success.

WL V930 chassis, HP05C main motor , XK X110 tail motor / blade and the HK white servos.

So far have found the V930 main rotors to be way nicer than the 966 or 988 blades ? the 966 blades where distorted, different pitch one blade to the other, that took some figuring out....... and very brittle.

next job is to connect the neat LED lights that came in the helimax body.

V930 Huey (3 min 3 sec)

Posted by kiwi_craig | Aug 06, 2016 @ 04:30 AM | 5,378 Views
V930 is a powerful brushless FP brother to the popular v977. Had the helimax huey shell for awhile and all but done bar final fit up.

Everything has been a tight fit and allot of lateral thinking to get everything into the front of the huey is an understatement. Lifting the pcb and moving back and cantilevering over the motor and front servo was the defining moment that i knew it would work.

All together today and initially Flying very nicely then all sorts of problems, erratic behavior to say the least, hand holding the unit and wow was there some buzz vibration going on. Long story short pulled the stock motor and in with an hp05c, no more vibes and smooth as....... Was running a 9t on the stock motor but went back to the 8t on the hp05c and let it rev.

Was running the v966 blades, black with green trim but it flew terrible, transpires the pitch is a fraction different one blade to the other, god it was a handfull, so back to the stock blades for now, and smooth as.... will look at the walkera blades in black and green.

Getting 5 minutex on the 520 mah goo, will swap the plug and go for the turnigys.

Job done !

Next job will be plugging up the leds and adding a jst plug for the turnigy batteries. And might see if i can replace the stock Motors bearings....Continue Reading
Posted by kiwi_craig | Aug 05, 2016 @ 05:59 PM | 8,232 Views
Since the WL version has turned out to be a dog, have decided to jump in and go brushless on the FY.

the popular 2845 motor and esc kit. Got three motor to test 3100kv / 2800kv and the 2600kv. The 2600 will be 3S

going to start with the 3100 and regear to suit, a massive increase in top speed is not what I'm after, more toque and acceleration = the plan!

Also went with the robertson race 48P - 6 pack of pinion gears, they are nice

opened up the ESC, two boards, going to seal all that up as any water getting in there will then short things out. Heat sink ? has a rubber protection layer on top of the FETs- gotta question how much heat will get transferred like that, I can see heat silicone going in. Also see plenty of silicone around all the wiring soldered joints etc to try and waterproof this.
Posted by kiwi_craig | Aug 05, 2016 @ 05:48 PM | 6,666 Views
The front end of the FY has lets us say a bit of float in it....... turns out the front hexs don't sit correctly onto the bearing, the drive pin bottoms in the hex and as a result the hex does not press onto the side of the bearing like it is supposed to = floppy wheels.

the bearings themselves are nothing great, allot of slop as well.

swapped in new bearings and went with a set of HSP pinch mounted hex nuts, this work PERFECT. the HSP drive pin is a fraction larger, I stayed with the FY pins, with the way this hex nut works its not a problem

Use the stock wheel nut and pull the hex down snug, then the pinch bolt locks the hex to the drive shaft, float is all gone. Hex is 1mm wider than stock. the wheels are also a nicer snugger fit onto the hex nut, the outer wheel nut is now just holding the wheel on instead of trying to tension the entire assembly - I'm calling this GOOD to GO
Posted by kiwi_craig | Mar 23, 2016 @ 03:51 AM | 10,985 Views
Simple maximum rpm test in a stock v977 heli

Stock battery 450 /25c. 4728 rpm

Goo 520 / 30c. 4863 rpm. Straight off the charger !

Turnigy nanotech 600 35c 4822 rpm

Turnigy Graphene 600 65c 4905 rpm

The v977 head is heavily loaded with pitch at maximum throttle, back down the rpm range i was seeing over 5300 rpm from the graphene the motor is absolutely screaming ! The extra c rate is noticable

Graphene is noticably shorter, same length as stock where as the nanotech is the same length as the Goo battery.


Stock. 12.12g
Goo. 13.52g
Nanotech. 16.13g
Graphene. 15.04g

1/2mm thicker than the nanotechs, trim the raised sections in the battery holder and its a snug fit through the remainder of the battery housing.
Posted by kiwi_craig | Feb 28, 2016 @ 01:59 PM | 7,319 Views
FX 071 - Jet ranger, going to be straight forward. Tail boom aligns nicely with the rangers body shell

Eflite jet ranger body for thier coaxials. two versions white blue blue and white blue red

EFLH 1263. Red & blue
EFLH 1264. Blue on blue

078 tail gearbox for blade straight out the back, similiar to v912

Trim front off lower chassis plate and slide battery in from the bottom into the front of the canopy. More room forward than stock to get it nose weighted.

intend to use plastic hex bolts for stand off body mounts

Skids, body kit comes with white skids see if they can be plugged in some how other wise reset stock skids and white plasticoat.

Should look good flying ! Just need to find time to get her done !

Would like to do a tri blade tail rotor Any suggestions ? Needs to fit a v912 style tail gear hub though, so maybe the popular walkera 180 tri blade wont fit ?...Continue Reading
Posted by kiwi_craig | Feb 06, 2016 @ 05:36 PM | 6,773 Views
The FF200 is a stunning little motor for use in a variety of 200 - 300 size helis

Whilst the vast majority have been great out of the box i struck one with a dud bearing, it buzzed like crazy....... Enough to totally confuse the pcb - gyro

After much hunting i found a suitable replacement bearing set at hobbyking, comes in pack of four, enough for two motors.

Bearing is a 3x7x3. 3mm ID. 7mm OD. 3mm depth. Bearing is listed for a HK550GT heli.

Works perfect and no more buzz bomb vibes
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 21, 2016 @ 04:31 AM | 11,951 Views
Finally, decent flying weather, FX067 - AS355 maiden

Flies like a gem, smooth, fast and composed, well pleased. minor tweaks only

FX067 chassis
Brushless main hobbymate HB2626 4200 kv 10 t pinion
2200 35C battery, giant power, big and powerful. did two 7 1/2 minute flights !
trimmed to heck 070 main blades
071 step up tail with V913 tail blade.
CF boom
LED lights
servo slower (dial back the feedback from the pcb in 6g) and aftermarket servos

i do need to weigh it, feels solid when flying, but power off on banked turns and it noses in some. cut 070 main rotor is the secret to getting 067's to fly nice

LOTS of work to get here.....

FX AS355 (8 min 33 sec)

Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 05, 2016 @ 10:19 PM | 9,922 Views
Good buddy windy heap sent me a 9115 monster trick for xmas, cheers mate. dave really rates these as allot of bang for ya buck so keen to get a look over it and do some basic setup before running it up.

I did note that the motor does not have a built in cooling fan like some of the other 390 motors ive seen, decide a big heat sink would be beneficial. I had a spare Feiyue FY motor heat sink in the spares pile, so on it went. I trimmed two of the fins on the front edge rather than cut the front of the motor cover, which acts as a stiffener for the lower chassis tray. I trimmed out an opening in the top to suit.

The good thing about this heat sink is the fins increase in height across the unit, i had the short fins to the front and the taller fins to the rear, this exposed all the fin tips to the cooling airflow under the body shell running over the top of the chassis

Initial running indicated plenty of heat being pulled out through the cooling fins thats for sure.

Greased all the gearbox gears whilst i was in there, let the fun begin !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 05, 2016 @ 09:41 PM | 12,382 Views
I have two FY03s this is really good for side by side comparisons on setups. Have noticed the green units motor seems to lack power and acceleration compared to the "red rocket".

Whilst i do have a spare stock motor to hand i also have a "400" walkera heli motor, bench testing indicated a no load 28,000 rpm vs 21,000 for the stocker. The walkera's internal fan unit pushes allot more cooling air, and the FY cooling fins fit, with a bit of trimming to clear the cooling holes on the slightly shorter walwera motor can.

Reviews elsewhere have reported the walkera motor to be a very good performer in brushed off road rc cars typically running 380 sized can motors, So in it goes !

Given the higher rpm capability i fitted the smaller 22t pinion that comes with the FY . Stock is 26t and a 24 and 22 come in the spares bag. The teeth number is actually stamped on the end of the cog if you look closely.

When i crunched the gear numbers 22/26 x 28,000 = 23,692 rpm

23,692/21,000 = 12.8% speed gain. Nice lets see how it pulls ?

Good news is the walkera has a bucket load of power and smokes the tires way better than the red rocket and the speed is there as well. Will try the 24t as well !

Good news, this motor is cheaper than the FY replacement from Banggood

The wires are reverse on the walkera to the FY, i swapped at the FY power plug rather than resolder...... Opps.....

Motor shaft is the same size, 2mm. The motor shaft is a fraction shorter, i run the FY gear spun around so the grub screw is on the motor side. I also use loctite gear bearing retainer to hold the gear then set the grub screw. Walkera motor mounting holes are a perfect line up. Pretty easy so far.

In the helis this motor runs on 3S so it should be reliable as under the 2S in the truggy; it should provide a long service life.

More crash testing to follow ! But looking good !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 02, 2016 @ 04:01 AM | 9,982 Views
Been noticing the differentials being notchy and rough.

Initial strip down there is only minimal grease in the diff housing, pulled the drive shafts and diff head,

pulled the bearings, all dry, and soaked these in CRC Tac-2, this penetrates into the bearings and leaves a tacky lubricant.

Pulled the three cap screws holding the crown wheel on, need a 2.5mm hex head, and opened up the differential, minimal to bugger all grease, using a grease gun i pressurised the entire assembly, it took a bucket load of grease to fill it flush. Refitted the pinion gear.

Pressure grease into all the bearings as well as the Tac-2, bearings where an odd mix of open and closed bearing races.

Filled the diff housings full with grease to overflowing, it was squishing out on finally assembly, basically you cant have to much in there ! It needs to be swimming in it for it to work well.

Buttoned up again, boy what a differeence, the entire assembly runs smooth now. After 5 minutes running the entire assemblies are butter smooth - big improvement to how it drives as well

Basically the same process for the front diff, front housing unbolts with the main housing still in the chassis, drop the half shafts and the diff comes on out. Same setup and same bugger all grease...... Pack the spiders full and then the main housing, job done.

Start at the last photo and work up !...Continue Reading
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 17, 2015 @ 11:39 PM | 7,544 Views
On the 930! The tail fair screams in FFF and on the V977 lacks hold on sudden pitch changes.

Bit of research, and a rat through the spare parts and ive located two alternative tail blades.

First is off the Blade MSRx. This has more pitch and i'd suggest a better aerodynamic profile

Second is an optional blade offered by Banggood



I ordered a green to check it out. Interesting comparisons, going to try the MSRX on the 930 and the super cp "paddle " on the v977

Flight tests to follow !

Note the stock blades seem very prone to cracking, closer inspection there is a step on the bore at the outer edge, of you push them past flush on the motor shaft you are stressing the plastic at the reduced dia on the edge of the blade and that is why they crack !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 17, 2015 @ 11:04 PM | 9,150 Views
The v977 seems pretty demanding on the stock 450 / 25c battery with noticably reduced performance around the 3 1/2 to 4 minute mark and are sucked dry by 5 minutes. 930 is easier as the motor speed is less for the majority of the flight envelope on the FP head

The bigger 520 mah / 30c units on offer seem to offer stronger performance and seem to work really well in the V930 with flight times into the 6 to 7!minute range easy and strong on the 977 to around 5 minutes.

Looking around there are three other aftermarket batteries, these are for the blade 120sr and or the WL v959 and related quads.

Common in the quads are the lectron pro 600 mah/30c, I've been using these in my v959 and they run strong driving 4 brushed motors for 6 to 7 minutes no sweat.

A top rated battery is the turnigy nano-tech 600 mah with a stonking 35 - 70 c rating this battery has the V 977 written all over it !

Other unit is the hyperion 550 / 25c. Price is allot higher and other online tests suggest the nanotech is well superior....... Park that one for now then

Both the turnigy and lectron are thicker than the stocker and 520. If you trim the plastic retainer lugs off the battery mount both will fit but the lectron is very tight and bulges the battery mounts straps , it will likely break these with vibration in use. Relaxing the plastic with an electric heat gun or maybe even soaking and stretching in hot water would be a good idea.

Turnigy is snug but okay once the...Continue Reading
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 15, 2015 @ 07:42 PM | 6,751 Views
Finally - Air under rotors

Lots of setup tuning on the head linkages but now got a nice stable hover...... On my pod n boom 071 - 067 brushless i find it to be way more stable with a slug of nose weight, 40 grams, without it tends to rock on the elevator, this was the same..... one of the things about 6G......... will look at a bigger battery to add the weight and gain power as a bonus rather than dead weight.........

Im running the trimmed 070 main blades these are way better than the 067 blades. 070 blade is allot thicker on the leading edge and retains stiffness when trimmed, stock 067 blade has allot more rolled camber shape and flexi when trimmed Aerodynamically the 070 blade is the better of the two.

Trying to fly inside and take photos was not a smart idea smacked it into the ceiling at full throttle...... Ops....... No damage.....

anyways pretty well setup now tirm wise , need to come up with an alternative weight (thin - flat) and it will be ready for initial outdoor flights to explore handling and final tune of the head setup and weight n balance tune.

Hobbymate 2626 has a bucket load of power it seems, cant wait to try it out and give it it's legs
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 13, 2015 @ 03:26 AM | 7,242 Views
After a long break finally back into it. Running a hobbymate 2626, 4200 kv, big pinion, lots of torque in these.

Normally i hard solder all the lighting LEDs in place, this time went for several plugs, what a pain getting those plugs to work fault free..... Hard wire and solder next time.....

Final body fit up, now its detailing time, expect air under the rotors this coming weekend.......
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 12, 2015 @ 05:03 AM | 8,093 Views
Been finding a really annoying wobble on initial spin up, after reading remlens posts on the main V977 thread and translating his russian web posts decided to give the 977 a bit of an upgrade

Added the heli factor swash, silicone O-rings and the banggood CF drive shaft along with the hisky drive gear.

The hisky gear is the way to go, stiffer and with a wider tooth set allows allot better mesh.

The CF drive shaft removes shock load and the CF grips the drive gear way better than the steel shaft it seems. CF drive shaft comes with two shorter screws for the top tee fitted from each side rather than forcing the stock screw right through the CF drive shaft

Swash was a nice fit no dramas. Several of the smaller silicone O-rings split on instal lucky i ordered two sets.....

Initial spin up, no more wobble!!, smooth as silk, you beauty. Clearly the stock swash walks around on the drive shaft ?? tried the 930 with stock swash and sure enough the annoying wobble on spin up is still there........

Once mechanically trimmed then a fine tune on the tx, hover was dead smooth, noticably better than the stocker. Whole bird has less buzz vibration going on thats for sure.

Looking foward to out door test flights - if the damn wind ever stops blowing !

Bigger / higher C rating batteries are the next mod, and the 931 blades and uprated tail !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 12, 2015 @ 04:42 AM | 12,815 Views
With the rear dialed its time to sort the front

Went with a 65mm large dia set of rebuildable shocks from hobby-ease. This guy has a big range of shock stuff and these are fully rebuildable and tunable.

Shocks come with a range of pistons, one, two and three holes and two sets of springs. The lighter red spings would be good for crawling.

Shocks need filling with oil, pretty easy. With the very high leverge ratio a really heavy oil is needed it seems. The single hole pistons feel the best on the bench but will test both single and dual hole versions. Shock has a flexible neoprene bladder in the removable cap head.

Added a plastic shim (3mm plastic stand off nut, drilled to suit the 3mm shock shaft) under the piston to shorten the shock back to match the stock length. At full compression the shock is close to bottoming unlike the stockers so dont be worried that it looks like it has less travel. Works perfect

Had to trim down the alloy offset mount slightly to get the rear of the shock under the body work, few minutes with the dremel - job done. longer 20 mm ss cap screws work perfect along with my shrink wrap spacer to get the 3mm shock bush snug.

the black plastic end section of the shock needs a circular notch trimmed into it to clear the rocker arm unit. small bit in a dremel and easy does it, that way the suspension can go to full droop as designed. plenty of beef on the shock end section to handle this clearancing.

Feels good, good to have decent shock action instead of the overly stiff boing sticks.......... testing to follow.

UPDATE - world fantastic, using 1000cst oil and the single hole pistons

Posted by kiwi_craig | Dec 12, 2015 @ 04:25 AM | 11,965 Views
The hobby king rear shocks where a huge improvement, the springs are perfect for low speed crawwling as they are quite soft and really allow it to articulate nicely.

Aluminium Front Shock Complete - 1/10 Quanum Vandal 4WD Racing Buggy (2pcs)
PRODUCT ID: 382000151

At higher speeds there was alot of body roll, the front wheel does rolled over nose up wheelies under max power which is cool fun but really the spring rate is to soft. Had to crank in allot of preload in the rear and the front to stop it rolling over under hard turns at speed. After allot of net searching it turns out the HSP 1/8 buggy fronts are an exact match for spring size so decided to give them a go

Added The 1/8 hsp front springs, exact right size, and allot firmer, no need for allot of preload, sits firm now with significantly reduced body roll. Possibly needs a heavier shock oil just to slow it fraction in the damping.

Front springs HSP 94885 Buggy 94886 Truggy
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 27, 2015 @ 08:25 PM | 6,770 Views
decided tav the V977 needs more speed, following Remlen's advise i've decided on the following;

there is a big tail motor which mates nicely with the v931 tail blade. good match to the longer 931 main rotor blades. trim to 42mm - 45mm to suit

remain suggested a heavier wire gauge so going to try this

can probably fit the stock tail motor holder but these look way better

and get the blink CF fin to match or miracle mart has the blue 911 tail fines for 99c, looks like it w=should have been on there from the get go........

going with the extreme swash

got CF drive shaft, they grip the drive gears way better.... but do eventually fatigue out, grab 2.....

and the 9t gear (need loctite retainer compound as its a loose fit

good looking set of mods, bits on the way !......

Remlen's Russian site is well worth translating, lots of good information there.