Archive for November, 2018
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Jumper T12 Part 3
I have been using the Jumper T12 as much as possible in the last week or so in an attempt to not just evaluate the Tx but also run down my AA batteries till a problem arises . Now the general consensus is that the module requires 5v to operate within parameters or problems may arise , problems like brown outs or complete loss of contact with the Rx and possibly range issues .
I was out flying my DIY micro DLG and all was going OK till the rudder refused to work at all . At the time I did not think to check the voltage , but the Tx was running in the 4.6v range . So it does not look like you have a lot of voltage to play with if you decide to go the AA route . I have ordered a 2s lipo as I am really starting to like the T12 a lot and plan to use the Tx on a very regular basis .
The T12 is a small Tx and feels small in the hand . But the only real issue for me is the soft gimbals . I especially don’t care for a soft throttle stick and I want some tension on it so I can use my rudder without inadvertently adjusting my throttle . Opening the T12 is relatively straight forward , you just need to remove the 6 screws that hold the case together . Then you need to open the battery cover and remove some tabs / inserts that sit on the shoulders of the transmitter . To remove these you need something like a butter knife to gently pry the tabs up and pop them lose . Thankfully Jumper has decided not to connect anything to the...Continue Reading
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Sent for review by fasttech.com >Product page
With the module in the T12 I was not able to bind to my JJRC H36 or to my Eachine E010 micro quads . Now did I read somewhere that this was due to some sort of frequency crystal variable Bla Bla …
Now I just happen to own a few transmitters as you would expect from anyone who has been in the RC hobby for any length of time . My Turnigy 9XR pro has been running Open Tx for a while now with a iRangeX multi protocol module and I have been rather happy with the combo . So obviously I had to try the jumper module in the 9XR pro and the very first model to bind to ? It just had to be the Eachine E010 micro quad . You can understand my surprise when I got an instant bind with the Jumper module in the 9XR pro . The next micro quad had to be the JJRC H36 which had also failed to bind to the T12 . And once again I got an instant bind .
Since the protocols come from the module and not the transmitter ? , I have to wonder about the discrepancy . My suspicions are it might be a Tx Firmware issue . I have this quad , the WL Toys Q333 that simply refuses to bind to any Tx other than the IR8M which has serious range issues . I just had to try for a bind with the 9XR pro Jumper module combo and colour me purple , if I did not get a instant bind .
To test my theory on the firmware , I installed my iRangeX module in the T12 and tried to bind to the Eachine E010 . No bind . This module has never failed to bind before to the...Continue Reading
Sent for review by fasttech.com , current price @ fasttech = $91.35 USD
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Jumper T12
Working voltage: DC 5-DC9V (factory with 4*AA battery box, 2s Lipo recommended, batteries not included)
• Firmware: OpenTX
• Channels: up to 12 channels (depending on the receiver)
• Display: 1.7-inch LCD display, 128* 64 resolution
• Gimbal Type: Potentiometer
• JR/FrSKY compatible module bay on rear side
• Upgrade method: USB online upgrade
• Simulator mode: 3.5mm standard ppm output or USB HID
All I can say is what an interesting transmitter . To get started one has to install batteries and to do that all you do is gently pull at the top of the tab on the battery cover . Just a gentle pull outward and down and it should pop open . A lot of folk are going with 2s lipo packs but I have decided to stick with AA for now and see how things go .
If you go the AA route you may find the transmitter beeping a voltage warning at you . So the first thing you need to do is go into the menu and change to voltage range for the low voltage warning . I changed mine to 4.6v .
Voltage warning range .
Press and hold the power ( on – off ) button till the...Continue Reading
This is not a review !
Came this morning , @ 64mm EDF .
A) There were no screws for mounting the motor to the EDF ??? ( Whats going on Hobbyking )
B) Tightening the blades to the motor shaft , nope .. Really hard to achieve ..
C) EDF body is a little flimsy , you really need the induction lip glued in place ..
D) Vibration ! , traced back to the nose cone ..
3s -
Using my Predator 40A ESC I saw a full 40A and then some at full power ..
It really has some thrust at this power level ..
Thrust starts at about 5A and by the time you get to 10A there is decent thrust .
At 15A the thrust is getting serious .. At 40A the thrust is very impressive to this EDF noob .
At 40A there was no cooking , but there was some warmth ..
2s -
At maximum power I saw some 26A and the thrust was impressive . I honestly dont see why this combo could not work on 2s .. Ok you wont break any speed records but you will most likely not cook anything either and still have decent flight performance . Obviously model weight will dictate performance .
Wow , my first EDF ..
Mail call !
I kidd you not , my order of control horns arrived Sunday Morning
So I had no choice , it was time to make some moves on the Ripit .
Ground some holes in the carbon boom , installed some control horns and made up some control rods .
Everything seems to be working fine ..
Two things need doing , some sort of nose cone / pod and attaching the wing .
I guess I dont desperately need a nose cone ?
Still , will give it a go .
I kidd you not , my order of control horns arrived Sunday Morning
So I had no choice , it was time to make some moves on the Ripit .
Ground some holes in the carbon boom , installed some control horns and made up some control rods .
Everything seems to be working fine ..
Two things need doing , some sort of nose cone / pod and attaching the wing .
I guess I dont desperately need a nose cone ?
Still , will give it a go .
Last time I took the whip out , I damaged the rudder .. Don't know how / when or where , but it happened - so a bit of repair needed .
At the moment playing with the angle of attack on the wing ..
DIY DLG build ( The Ripit )
Come to a screaming halt , got my control rods . I have 0.4 / 0.5 and 0.6 to chose from and I am going with the 0.5mm
But the hold up is HK int ware house , waiting on my control horns . Cant make holes in the carbon boom till I know where to make holes and for that I need my control horns ..
Came in the Mail , one Phoenix 1600 motor glider ..
And as everyone knows ( perhaps ) the included motor bites the big one .
Recommended Batt is a 2s 1800 , but that wont get the CG done .
To get CG on the money a 3s 2200 is needed , and that battery will fry your motor .
The included motor begins to cook really well @ around 150watt ( 2s or 3s ) as the motor appears to be seriously over propped .
| Phoenix 1600 Motor Glider Motor Test (1 min 42 sec) |
A new motor has been purchased , 270W 1000kv ..
I think 200W will fly the Phoenix 1600 and the extra cant hurt .
Also been playing with the Jumper T12 , lots of binding , some flying and some testing .
Hopefully get started on the review soon . ( So many tests to run ) .
Lots of waiting .. I need those control horns ..
Update Sat afternoon ...
I was sure I had a motor somewhere ..
A Aeolian motor that was purchased by accident ...
After a search I found it ..
Aeolian 2826 KV1000
A quick 3s test with a 10x4.5 gave 7200 RPM @ 12.5A
ok So I threw it into the Phoenix 1600 and with a 3s
6450 RPM @ 15A .. around 170Watt region . Full Throttle .
At full power the motor did get hot , but not as bad as the factory motor .
Still have a new motor on the way ,
Sent for testing / review by Fasttech.com
I have wanted to put the Redcon CM261 6ch DSM2 Rx through some tests for some time now and thanks to Fasttech.com I have one to play with . First I will be using my variable voltage / current power supply to see how the CM261 handles lower voltages ( suitability for 1s use ) . I started at 4 volts and 0.5A as the current limit . With a single 6g servo there were no issues , but as soon as I added a 9g servo the Rx began to brown out . I increased current capability to 1A and dropped the voltage to 3.5v and the Rx once again began to brown out . Increasing current capability ( max current ) to 1.5 amp the Rx held steady . Dropping the voltage to 3.3v the Rx once again browned out .
Starting again from 3.5v I was far more vigorous with the servos trying to get the current draw as high as possible and I was able to get the Rx to brown out . Increasing the voltage to 3.6v saw an improvement and I was not able to brown out the Rx . These tests were conducted with a single 6g and a single 9g servo connected to the Rx . The 6g servos look to draw about half the current of the 9g servo in the test .
1x6g servo - 0.029A @ 3.6v static current draw
2x6g servo - 0.034A @ 3.6v static current draw
2x6g servo - 180mAh current draw utilizing both servos continuously . ( This is about equal to one 9g servo )
So the variables are - current draw and the number of servos as well load .
Range testing with a...Continue Reading
EF D2 sent for review by Fasttech.com
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2. Point the mouse to the trolley at the top bar and click view cart
3. Click have a coupon code and type – map
Blade Hardness 58-59 HRC
Blade Material D2 Steel
Blade Type Drop Point
Handle Material G10
Blade Length 83 mm
Blade Width 3.3 cm
Open Length 200 mm
Product Weight 180 g
Blade Thickness 4mm
Lets get right to it shall we . The blade is bank vault tight all the way , there is literally no slop to speak off at all . The blade opens smoothly and locks tight . The edge on the blade was razor sharp as supplied , it literally shaved the hair on my arm . I ran the blade across my arm and when I looked there was a nice bundle of shaved hair sitting neatly on the blade . ( It is sharp )
I always like to do some cutting to see if the blade will hold it's edge , it's nice that a blade will take an edge . But even nicer is when the blade holds the edge . A box of stuff came this morning so I took the EF and cut the box up into lots and lots of little strips . I did as much cutting on that box as I could without cutting off one of my fingers . When I was done the blade had lost some of it's sharpness , but it still took hair off my arm .
At this point I am very impressed by the blade . At some 4mm thick , the blade does have some mass and you can feel it in...Continue Reading
Still waiting on stuff ..
Fasttech.com has sent a Jumper T12 for me to play with .
Really looking forward to that , especially as the module itself should be capable of being used in other transmitters .
All this waiting is getting hard !
So I started a DIY Micro DLG (?) or HLG build .
Looks like I need to order more parts , just dont have the right DIA control rod .
Rudder is glued in , just need to do a post for the elevator , as well a foam pod to cover the Rx / battery / servos
And lets not forget the wing .
This practice DLG is being made from the packing material that my 1.5meter DLG was wrapped in .
Practice ! - I have not scratch built anything in maybe 25 years , so I need to practice .
So this is a rough build , just to get an idea of how to do things .
I call this the " Ripit " , as it is dimensionally very close to the Whipit . ( Why re-invent the wheel )
Fasttech.com has sent a Jumper T12 for me to play with .
Really looking forward to that , especially as the module itself should be capable of being used in other transmitters .
All this waiting is getting hard !
So I started a DIY Micro DLG (?) or HLG build .
Looks like I need to order more parts , just dont have the right DIA control rod .
Rudder is glued in , just need to do a post for the elevator , as well a foam pod to cover the Rx / battery / servos
And lets not forget the wing .
This practice DLG is being made from the packing material that my 1.5meter DLG was wrapped in .
Practice ! - I have not scratch built anything in maybe 25 years , so I need to practice .
So this is a rough build , just to get an idea of how to do things .
I call this the " Ripit " , as it is dimensionally very close to the Whipit .
( Why re-invent the wheel )
