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Views: 8
Two pony tail bungees around the prop shaft and CA’d to the blades ensure prop folding against the fuselage. A swivel latch from credit card plastic is a back up to the canopy clips. -
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A 2200 3S Admiral 45C is secured for the maiden -
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The wing joiner gets a lanyard from dental floss. Keeps it from getting lost. -
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Bottom hatch taped back in place. -
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130 watts per pound should be adequate. -
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Wing cavity in the fuselage. Notice the 6 ch AR 636 is flush with fuselage. -
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Bottom hatch about to be taped in place.
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Door is hinged on copilot's side. A magnetic or latch keeps the door closed on the pilots side. A yellow battery connector is seen above the balsa floor. The ESC is under the floor. -
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The sides of the foam door can be reinforced with thin 1/64 or 1/32 ply. -
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Here a 2200 4S pack is being loaded at an angle. -
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The different sizes that will fit thru the top door. -
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Their dimensions and weights -
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This 1500 4S 100C China Hobby lipo pack has the least capacity but is the lightest and has the greatest watts/weight ratio. -
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This is my favorite because she talks to me! The Bluetooth wireless app to my smart phone is so easy and convenient. I charge my Lipo packs using the Lion so capacity stops at 90 percent. I stop flying at 15 percent remaining. Less stress/swelling!
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These are the Robert Hinges that can be obtained from many distributors. They work very good on the canopy and can be used for the flight controls when the foam hinges become loose. -
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The hinges are dry fitted after drilling 1/8 inch holes vertically down thru the fuselage “sill”. -
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Here the hinges have been hot glued into place. -
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Here the hinges are seen at the aft section of the canopy. -
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Notice that I sliced off the front foam “tongue” that usually keeps the canopy in place. I’ve hot glued it out of the way in case I need to revert it to the stock location. A mechanical latch on top keeps the canopy from opening along with magn -
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A King Hawaiian box is cut down as a carrying “stooge” and parts bin. The wing panels are on either side of the fuselage. -
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Put the steel hinge axle along the canopy “ledge”. Dry fit before applying just a little drop of hot glue into the foam hole. Then insert the hinge. Make sure the hinge is perpindicular .
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The plywood is dry fitted into the sliced fuselage and marked to trim away the excess. -
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A close up of the wide end. -
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This is the 11 mm wide area just beyond the pushrod housing tail end. -
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This is the other end of the 39 CM long (16 inch) end. It is about 25 mm wide. Epoxy has been smeared on both sides of the plywood. -
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Here the ply is inserted dry and marked for trimming away.
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A Dremmel or round file is used to make grooves in the wire so a hook or string loop will not slip. -
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Close up of the grooves. -
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This 3.3 pound model hangs from a light fixture securely fastened to a drywall ceiling. A wire with a bottom hook is connected to the handle and is positioned to be fuselage and wings level. -
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Here the handle is bent into a U shape. Mark holes for the legs. Insert legs into the holes and secure the legs with wheel collars. -
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Handle is flush for inflight drag reduction. -
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Handle is pulled up to carry, hoist or hang from the ceiling. Using matching paint to minimize corrosion and to blend in with the area.
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Full size Maule at Sun n Fun 2018. Note how far forward the float extend. -
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Nicely painted model floats but do not extend forward compared to the full scale floats. -
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Another excellent scale upgrade with better looking struts but not extension. -
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My land floats with wheels showing profile view. Even though there is minimum ground clearance I have had no damage to float bottoms. The aft mains and forward nose wheel provide better tracking and ground handling compared to conventional or trike. -
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Another view showing stearable left nose wheel and castoring right nose wheel. This “quad” style is great for hard or grass runways. I’ve installed a 60 amp Aerostar RVS reversing speed control for braking and reverse back up operation. -
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A Maule float has been sliced away using a small box cutter at the step. This seemed to be the best area to add a plug because the sides are most parallel. A 3.25 inch space is shown but the final plug will most likely be 6 inches long. -
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View looking forward . A balsa scrap is temporarily CA glued to the inner float sides. -
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View looking aft.
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Peel the LED strip away from the foam starting at the aft area and moving forward. The strip will be stuck back when the black electronic component device is wedged between the left fuse wall and the receiver. -
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Cut two parallel slots in the foam starting just above the red trim piece. Slot should be the height of the LED controller or 11 mm. Note the green box cutter has plunged all the way through the fuselage side. -
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Placing a metric ruler along the lower cut line and butting it up against the white plastic firewall make a vertical slot about 27 and 79 mm or the width of the LED controller and wire ends. -
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Push the foam piece from the inside out. Save it for repair foam or for testing glue and paint to see if it melts. -
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Dry fit the LED controller into the cut out area. Trim if needed. Lightly sand the top and bottom edge of the controller rubber and lightly spray with accelerator. Note that the switch will be aft and the electronic component will be forward. -
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After the controller is secured to the top and bottom cut out area cut another “plug” for the on/off switch. Here it is off to the left side. -
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Lightly sand the top and bottom of the switch and bolt holes for accelerator and CA. The plug can be trimmed down to glue back down onto the top of the switch. Sliding the switch aft turns the LEDs off. -
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The remaining electronic heat shrink board is wedged against the foam and then the LED strip is pushed back in place. Here the LEDs are verified On then Off. The three buttons are hard to see so mark with a Sharpie Silver Permanent Marker.
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Nylon female plug is sanded then CA’d to ply wood that is CA’d to fuselage foam. White nylon wing lock was never used as painters masking tape was layered on to wing tube. Just enough to make wings slide in and out but not risk pin contact. -
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White tape added to black canopy for different motor glider look. -
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Black pen line shows where wing joins fuselage. Plywood bonded to foam with CA. Wires and plug bonded to ply with low temp hot glue. Red and black wires supply power to aileron and flap servos. Remains wires supply signal to flap and aileron servo.
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Views: 62
The seam between the fuselage and firewall will open up after certain types of damage. -
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Clear plastic “firewall” shows 4 holes that secure the aluminum back plate that is bolted to the motor. Yellow tape shows some of the areas that could be reinforced with tape or CA and cloth/paper. Paint can easily be removed for a better bond.
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Flaperon showing a 90 degree deployment angle. -
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Left wing panel of old Radian wing with the flap segment location and the wing tip cutaway. -
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Top view of the flap deployed 90 degrees down. -
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Flaperon deployedup for a left turn. -
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Neutral camber. -
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Flap segment is flush during up deployment. -
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Trailing edge is coupled using an inner pushrod houseing and a short piece of music wire. Gap is shown when flaps are deployed down in a 90 degree angle.. -
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Removable wing tip for sport flying. Wingspan is 62.5 inches.