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Posted by rchrist | Sep 30, 2020 @ 08:49 PM | 3,095 Views
I've converted my 4f200 belt driven tail setup to direct drive setup. Still haven't decided what pitch for the blades to lock the slider at. Excited to get it completed and tested on my 4F200 with direct drive main.
Posted by rchrist | Sep 27, 2020 @ 02:22 PM | 4,225 Views
Due to the lack of spare gears and the awful sound that the gear to gear makes, I've gone direct drive. I'm using a sunnysky R23-5 motor on the main and turnigy 1811 motor on the tail making my 4f200 with 3 blades gear-less. I installed the R23-5 on the stock main shaft and I'm using the walkera FC and walkera main esc for now. It's got a fvt littlebee pro esc driving the tail with blheli tail firmware. CF tail boom without the belt drive setup and got a mastercp rudder blade on the tail motor. it's running on 2s or 3s and almost 55g lighter than the stock 4f200 on 2s.
Posted by rchrist | Sep 03, 2020 @ 05:47 PM | 5,800 Views
Iíve added a direct main drive motor to my MasterCP with cc3d FC. Itís had the cc3d for several years to date and the dmd brought new life to it. Itís been flying nice on 2s and better on 3s. I will be replacing the two blades setup to my 4f200 three blades setup using MCP rotors. Much more quieter without the gears. Also, I need to shorten the power cable.
Posted by rchrist | Jul 17, 2020 @ 09:45 PM | 6,278 Views
I was playing with the screenshot function in my Radiomaster t16s, and took some screenshot of my K130 setup for scaling around. The setup allows on the fly changes using all the trim buttons and the settings are displayed on the homescreen Iíve setup. I adjust the AIL rate, ELE rate, Collective, Rudder rate, expo for ail and ele, and Ö. Each flight modes all with their own settings adjusted from the trim buttons when in that flight mode.

Edited 6-18-2020: I neglected to mention this setup is with the k110 rx gyro and ch 7 gyro don't apply. I duplicated from my hcp100s to save time and ch 7 was for the hcp100s - forgot to remove it.

...Continue Reading
Posted by rchrist | Jul 09, 2020 @ 07:43 PM | 8,561 Views
Like many, I just received a RadioMaster T16s a day ago - Second or Third batch, IDK. After having a first gen. Jumper T16 for awhile there's no real learning curve for me. Two or three of the buttons function are different and it only took a few minutes to grasp the changes. In less than a half hour, I had a model setup for the XK boards. The same model was duplicated for all with little changes made after assigning each model to a xk heli. I did it without opentx software - haven't connected via usb as yet. Got the amber sound pack and images to put on it and yet to back up the files on the micro card.

I had to open the RM t16s twice to mod the gimbals from left throttle to right throttle - so easy, I just smile. Then, I open it again to en-large the holes in the grid over the speaker that increased the sound output, again easy to do. I'm using the lipo from my jumper t16 for now and will try/use the 18650 li-ion later. I don't like the charging port at the bottom and looking to relocate it to the back. The side grips are different, so, will have to get use to a different grip.

I played around with both my modded k110s and my modded k130. Didn't felt much different than the jumper t16 and i'm not jumping up and down with excitement as it's not to much different than the jumper t16. My jumper t16 is the first gen and started having ribbon issues with a switch and the speaker sound. After fixing the sound three times, I left it without voice. So good to have voice again with the RM T16s. Already got a model for my fx070cp and will play with that soon.

Was it worth the 2 months wait and 130 usd. Yep...
Posted by rchrist | Jun 18, 2020 @ 05:21 PM | 8,241 Views
Finished converting my fp fx070c to cp. Couple more things to tweak. Awesome results.

Edited 06-25-20: I started this project with the cc3d flight controller - had a few ups a downs and decided to try a k-bar unit I had for years and never used nor tried in a heli. All the axises are clicking on the bench getting ready to air test. Didn't take long to figure out how to setup the brushless tail and that's going to need some tweaking once airborne. Meanwhile, I got a k124 flight controller on order for it as the easiest setup. Also got a micro brain 2 as another option. The cc3d is the hardest of them all to tweak for great flight and I was close before now trying the k-bar. The cp function is awesome in it and it scaled flied nicely with the cc3d. I also had to take it from 4s to 3s - to much power with the oversized motor. I now have a footprint of how to convert fx070c to cp. Transplanting another unit into the shell seems much harder than converting. Oh, and it sounds awesome also - no more gear to gear noise.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 15, 2020 @ 11:02 AM | 6,229 Views
The Tail for my FX070cp have a emax 1804 ccw motor with 5" tri blade powered by a favorite littlebee pro opto 20A esc. Same as when it was fix pitch. The motor is rated 3s, but, I've ran it on 4s many times - no issues there.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 12, 2020 @ 11:19 PM | 11,969 Views
I had to change location of the third servo for the fp 2 cp conversion, because I realized I wouldn't be able to unscrew the servo if I needed to replace it or even unscrew the horn with the previous setup. The new position is much better. Need to tweak the alignment and good to go.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 10, 2020 @ 08:56 PM | 18,157 Views
I'm converting my FX070c from fixed pitch to collective pitch with direct main drive motor running on 4s. I'm still tweaking the fitment and will fab a new tray for the lipo, esc, and rx (cc3d or k110). Got to lock the third servo in place and setup the linkage to the proper length. Got to trim the main shaft, hookup the electronics and more. Got to adjust the swash anti rotation guide. Got to mount the tail esc for the DD brushless motor. Sounds like a lot more to do, but it won't take long to do it all. Can't wait to complete it.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 10, 2020 @ 07:32 PM | 18,391 Views
Got the new gaui x3 tail assembly - already installed and been flying real nice. No feathering shaft and dampen rubbers. No vibration issues.






...Continue Reading
Posted by rchrist | May 16, 2020 @ 09:54 PM | 12,154 Views
The charger is the ISDT Q6 pro 300w 14A


Posted by rchrist | May 15, 2020 @ 05:38 PM | 7,727 Views
I bent two feathering shaft on my K130 in as much days and decided it's time for this modification. I hacked the head by removing the portion for the feathering shaft / blade grips. Had to make my own dog bones as the stocks became to short.




EDITED 5-17-20: I don't like this tarot tail assembly. Not enough clearance in the grips for the k130 rotors. Had to sand off lots of the back end of the rotors root and I don't like that. Ordered the gaui x3 tail assembly that I'm using on one of my k110. I wanted to test it today, but will put it on hold until the gaui tail assembly arrives. Can't wait. Meanwhile, I've stripped my k130 down to single parts and will refurbish it.
Posted by rchrist | May 02, 2020 @ 11:53 PM | 9,889 Views
Posted by rchrist | May 02, 2020 @ 10:16 PM | 9,478 Views
Posted by rchrist | Apr 22, 2020 @ 10:00 PM | 9,194 Views
The plug on the k110 rx board with the ppm signal / +5 / gnd wires goes like this:

The K130 esc PPM signal wire goes to the k110 PPM signal.
The K130 esc +5.5v wire goes to the K110 +5v.
The K130 esc GND wire goes to the k110 GND.

Next, the resistor removal mod need to be done on the K110 rx. This allows 8.4v for the brushed tail motor.



The K130 esc GND need to connect to K110 rx BATT - terminal
The K130 esc 8.4v need to connect to K110 rx BATT + terminal

If using brushless tail, then the resistor mod and 8.4v to the k110 board are not needed. I got rid of my brushed tail from day 2 and never to do the 0 resistor removal mod nor connect 8.4v to my board. But, that's how to run 2s tail from the k110 board. Good Luck.....



I mounted the k110 board in normal orientation with antenna to the front. Then I flipped over the elevator or back servo. Next I connected the k130 back servo to the k110 front servo socket. Then I connected k130 left servo to the k110 right servo socket. Next I connected k130 right servo to the k110 left servo socket. Last I invert the pitch channel (channel 6), aileron channel (channel 1), and the rudder channel (channel 4) in the transmitter. I also adjusted the rate on the servos for less travel with the k130 swash plate. On my setup about 40% - 45% rate is max before swashplate binds to the shaft.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 28, 2020 @ 10:25 PM | 8,318 Views
Need to make little adjustments and should be good to test when I finish the build. Don't want to un-settle my other K110.

It have the k123 swashplate converted to 3mm from 2.5mm and the washout arms from the k130 - a bit long, but ok I guess.

K110 3 blade tail assembly rotor head testing (0 min 38 sec)


Ric...

Update:

My 3 blades build have been a blast. It requires a bit more motor power on the main verses the 2 blades and I also upgraded the tail motor from a 8000 kv to a 10000kv with the k123 full size prop and new wiring to the esc. In comparison to the 2 blades setup, I had to raise the cyclic, throttle, and pitch higher. Iím still fine tuning the 3 blades setup. Although I have it good, Iím designing a 3d print gizmo to sit on top the shaft and keep the grips at 0 degrees with the servos at 90 degrees. Plus a added design to keep the connecting arms at -2 to -3 degrees offset angle. Because the connecting arms are fixed to the grips, it gets a little tedious keeping the arm and grip in position and then locking the arm to the grip. So the gizmo should make it easier to get all 3 arms and grips at the needed degrees of angle. Thereís a little drift to the right and thatís because the grips are not perfectly in sync yet, but you wouldnít notice it when itís moving. Because it needs more power which the sunnysky 2302 have plenty of, Iíll try the bigger sunnysky 2305 motor like I use in my k130 with dmd for comparison. Big bird on a little frame. I could almost see it in scale fuselage.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 17, 2020 @ 02:49 PM | 12,903 Views
Pondering which resources to use, I came across a metal swashplate for a v911 while looking for matching size swash balls to use in a hcp100s project. The balls were perfect and then I noticed the v911 swashplate holds a 3mm shaft verses the k110/k120 using a 2.5mm shaft. My pondering was over and now to make it work for my DMD k110 driveline.

K130 3mm main bearing fits the k110 frame perfect. Now, the v911 swashplate is fixpitch and the k110 is collective pitch. So, I popped out both swashplate center portions with the swiveling ball and put the v911 portion into the k110 portion and created a k110 hybrid swashplate for 3mm shafts. Next, I removed the balls from the k110 discarded portion and put hem on the v911 portion being used. After all that, it seemed I could of just changed the swiveling ball, but the v911 is a littler wider.

Big difference in the blade grips travel as the V911 inner portion have longer arms for the balls connecting the dogbones. Little tx tweaking to soften the travel and it’s all nice in conjunction with the tail assembly being used.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 05, 2020 @ 11:47 AM | 10,028 Views
Almost ready to test my project with a tail assembly installed on the main shaft for main rotors. More fitment continues before I loctite and ca three little parts in place. It's not as huge as it looks in the photos and have more than enough power to swing them easily. The rotors didn't needed any washers as they fitted in the grips nicely. Also, I have the frame braced some, so the extra weight wouldn't flex the frame when rotating. I love it so far and once all is tighten and tested, I'll be able to say more.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 04, 2020 @ 02:43 PM | 11,310 Views
I'm finished with the layout and fitment of all parts to use the tail hub/grips on the the K110 main shaft. Everything fits and move nice and smooth. I just need to file/sand and shape the ruff ends then loctite and ca some parts. I will try to set it up for 12 - 14 degrees max travel using the dog bone guide as the bottom stop and the cap on top as the top stop.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 03, 2020 @ 10:45 PM | 11,321 Views
I've prep a tail hub and grips assembly for Gaui X3 to replace the head, feathering shaft, and blade grips with it. The balls I took from the metal grips for k110/k120 and did a little filing to the part that's inserted into the grips. So, the k110 dog bones are a perfect fit and I've got to sleeve the 2.5mm shaft for a 3mm fit. It have thrust bearings in the grip and might need a washer to hold the blades. I few members have done this to their k130 and I'm also preparing one for my K130.