Overview
There are a few builders out there with Osprey-like models that kinda transition between vertical and horizontal flight but they tend to use heli heads (unlike the real thing) and are very expensive.
The reason they do this is they don't have the stability control system that can handle BOTH horizontal and vertical flight modes and transition the whole shebang (mix, PID rates, everything) in-between.
But as the developer of OpenAero2 V1.3... I do
However I'm more a programmer than a builder.
As you may know there are no off-the-shelf kits to try out V1.3...so I'm building my own.
When it is done and demonstrated it will be a bit like the holy grail of Osprey development.
For just $29 worth of flight controller and your model you can have your own V22 Osprey that ACTUALLY transitions properly and all you need are two brushless motors with controllable swivelling motor mounts.
All the tricky stuff is done by OpenAero2 V1.3.
Anyway, while *I* know it works, the only way to demo it is to build the dang thing.
So this is the build log of the "Hover-Cub".
I'll let the picture speak for themselves.
The model
This "Osprey" started off its life as a 680mm Mini J3 Cub model from HobbyKing.
This is the wing prior to resizing. It will hold the CF frame that supports the engine nacelles.
To make it remotely scale-ish this is how much you need to remove from the Cub's wing.
And here it is so far... looks exactly like an Osprey yeah?... no?..
Well it's a tech demo model so the only important thing is dimensions
This is what I plan to use as the nacelle hinges.
They are rotor holders bought from HobbyKing.
By some fluke 8mm CF tubing fits into them exactly.
Next I have to make strong but compact engine pods that connect up to those rotor holders.
There are a few builders out there with Osprey-like models that kinda transition between vertical and horizontal flight but they tend to use heli heads (unlike the real thing) and are very expensive.
The reason they do this is they don't have the stability control system that can handle BOTH horizontal and vertical flight modes and transition the whole shebang (mix, PID rates, everything) in-between.
But as the developer of OpenAero2 V1.3... I do
However I'm more a programmer than a builder.
As you may know there are no off-the-shelf kits to try out V1.3...so I'm building my own.
When it is done and demonstrated it will be a bit like the holy grail of Osprey development.
For just $29 worth of flight controller and your model you can have your own V22 Osprey that ACTUALLY transitions properly and all you need are two brushless motors with controllable swivelling motor mounts.
All the tricky stuff is done by OpenAero2 V1.3.
Anyway, while *I* know it works, the only way to demo it is to build the dang thing.
So this is the build log of the "Hover-Cub".
I'll let the picture speak for themselves.
The model
This "Osprey" started off its life as a 680mm Mini J3 Cub model from HobbyKing.
This is the wing prior to resizing. It will hold the CF frame that supports the engine nacelles.
To make it remotely scale-ish this is how much you need to remove from the Cub's wing.
And here it is so far... looks exactly like an Osprey yeah?... no?..
Well it's a tech demo model so the only important thing is dimensions
This is what I plan to use as the nacelle hinges.
They are rotor holders bought from HobbyKing.
By some fluke 8mm CF tubing fits into them exactly.
Next I have to make strong but compact engine pods that connect up to those rotor holders.
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I'm porting OpenAero to the N6/i86 board as many will enjoy the smaller form factor. I've made a schematic diagram for the board which you can find below.
Update:
I have successfully ported OpenAero to the HobbyKing i86 / Eagle N6 board.
Video below
Code is available in the repo now here.
Files can be downloaded from the project page here.
Connection diagram - N6 CPPM Aeroplane V1.13
Connection diagram - N6 Aeroplane V1.13
Connection diagram - N6 Flaperon V1.13
...Continue Reading
Update:
I have successfully ported OpenAero to the HobbyKing i86 / Eagle N6 board.
Video below
Code is available in the repo now here.
Files can be downloaded from the project page here.
| OpenAero V1.13 Beta 5 on HobbyKing i86 / Eagle N6 (0 min 40 sec) |
Connection diagram - N6 CPPM Aeroplane V1.13
Connection diagram - N6 Aeroplane V1.13
Connection diagram - N6 Flaperon V1.13
...Continue Reading
Following on from my big write-up of how to attach an accelerometer board to a Blackboard, here is the very simple guide on how to do it to a KK+ board
Step 1. Connect your ACC board as shown. The signal names are written on the underside of the KK+ board.
Step 2. Remove the two upper-most pot resistors (Pitch and Roll pots)
Step 3. Adjust Vref to 2.4V
The ACC board orientation is the same as in the following blog entry.
Step 1. Connect your ACC board as shown. The signal names are written on the underside of the KK+ board.
Step 2. Remove the two upper-most pot resistors (Pitch and Roll pots)
Step 3. Adjust Vref to 2.4V
The ACC board orientation is the same as in the following blog entry.
As promised, here is a step by step guide to adding a 3rd-party accelerometer board to your KK board. Adding the board to a KK+ board is very easy, so I'm going to start with the Blackboard, which is much more complex.
Warning: This modification is complex and only to be done by experienced hobbyists. You could easily and permanently damage your KK board by incorrectly following this build log.
Step 1: The accelerometer - What to buy
You need an analog accelerometer on a breakout board. I have used both the Freescale 6331 and also the ADXL335 chip successfully. This build log will ssume an ADXL335 board. The board I used was bought from eBay but just about any will do.
Step 2: The accelerometer - Wiring it up
We only use the Gnd, 3V, X and Y outputs of the board. Solder wires to these points and it should look like this...
Step 3: The accelerometer - Mounting the board
Correct orientation of the board is critical. If you use another board you will have to make sure the axis are the same as the photo below.
I have attached the board to the KK with hot glue at as close to 45 degrees as I can. Pin 1 of the ADXL335 must be as shown if imagined from below.
...Continue Reading
Warning: This modification is complex and only to be done by experienced hobbyists. You could easily and permanently damage your KK board by incorrectly following this build log.
Step 1: The accelerometer - What to buy
You need an analog accelerometer on a breakout board. I have used both the Freescale 6331 and also the ADXL335 chip successfully. This build log will ssume an ADXL335 board. The board I used was bought from eBay but just about any will do.
Step 2: The accelerometer - Wiring it up
We only use the Gnd, 3V, X and Y outputs of the board. Solder wires to these points and it should look like this...
Step 3: The accelerometer - Mounting the board
Correct orientation of the board is critical. If you use another board you will have to make sure the axis are the same as the photo below.
I have attached the board to the KK with hot glue at as close to 45 degrees as I can. Pin 1 of the ADXL335 must be as shown if imagined from below.
...Continue Reading
Introduction
------------
The NeXtcopter open source code for the KK boards was just a starting point for my ultimate goal: bringing the much-requested auto-level feature to KK-level boards.
Doing so was a long journey! Over the last few months I have been working on bringing the most current open-sourced KK software up to date. Along the way a number of great new features, some unique to NeXtcopter Plus, have been added.
These include:
- PID loop control on all axis (PI for auto-level)
- Support for accelerometers and auto-level functions
- Custom MultiWii GUI interface for use with serial adapters or potentially bluetooth
- Simple LCD menu system for on-field adjustments without a laptop
- Low Voltage Alarm support for LEDs or piezo buzzer
- Support for PPM receivers with up to 8 channels
A number of changes have been made to the way the code runs:
- Motor control no longer dictates how much processing time is available
- ESC rate varies depending on the flight mode
- RC inputs were originally compressed into 8 bits but now are processed without loss of resolution
Here is a picture of my hand-made acc board add-on. The final version will use Dan's module and be much neater.
And here is Dan's MEMS module on my copter.
Here is a picture of the GUI showing the gyro and accelerometer outputs being graphed on screen.
...Continue Reading
------------
The NeXtcopter open source code for the KK boards was just a starting point for my ultimate goal: bringing the much-requested auto-level feature to KK-level boards.
Doing so was a long journey! Over the last few months I have been working on bringing the most current open-sourced KK software up to date. Along the way a number of great new features, some unique to NeXtcopter Plus, have been added.
These include:
- PID loop control on all axis (PI for auto-level)
- Support for accelerometers and auto-level functions
- Custom MultiWii GUI interface for use with serial adapters or potentially bluetooth
- Simple LCD menu system for on-field adjustments without a laptop
- Low Voltage Alarm support for LEDs or piezo buzzer
- Support for PPM receivers with up to 8 channels
A number of changes have been made to the way the code runs:
- Motor control no longer dictates how much processing time is available
- ESC rate varies depending on the flight mode
- RC inputs were originally compressed into 8 bits but now are processed without loss of resolution
Here is a picture of my hand-made acc board add-on. The final version will use Dan's module and be much neater.
And here is Dan's MEMS module on my copter.
Here is a picture of the GUI showing the gyro and accelerometer outputs being graphed on screen.
...Continue Reading
