Posted by Blaze0021 | Today @ 01:07 PM | 724 Views
This is the flight of my FlightLine 1.2m Hawker Sea Fury FB.11, jamming to All Along The Watchtower (Cover) by Playing For Change.

The FlightLine 1.2m Hawker Sea Fury FB.11 (5 min 1 sec)

I used the following parts to make my own "Hawker Sea Fury Sport Power Set FLW20113" that is being sold by Motion RC and installed it:

1) FlightLine 3648-880KV Brushless Motor
2) APC 12x8E Propeller (Dynamically Balanced)
3) Dubro 3" Spinner (Dynamically Balanced)

Using a Roaring Top 4S 3300mAh 70C Lipo (358 grams), I also added 2.25 ounces of flat self-stick ballast weights hidden in the nose section to balance to the recommended CG.

What was already a great warbird is now even better!

Pilot: Me
Cameraman: Brad Lupher

Thanks for Watching!
Posted by mutski | Today @ 01:19 AM | 2,439 Views
After much shortening of wires and rearranging, my Dart 250 is now a hair's breadth under 250 grams AUW. The first flight was 14:43.

Matek F411-WSE
Stock motor, ESC and 2-blade prop
Emax 9051 servos
TBS Unify Pro V3
TrueRC Sidefeed (short) antenna
Runcam Split 3 Micro
TBS Crossfire Nano rx
Battery -3S, 1200mah Efest 18350 pack
Battery and ESC wiring - 20 ga.

I could cut another gram or two by removing the electrical tape that covers the vent holes in the back and using lighter heat shrink to cover the vtx and rx. I could also save by switching to the Runcam Split 3 Nano.
Posted by Mr Tim | Yesterday @ 08:17 PM | 2,999 Views
picture of the RCM plan guide
Posted by GBLynden | Yesterday @ 08:01 PM | 3,068 Views
Enjoy this E-flite UMX Night Vapor First Indoor Shop Flight With E-flite 150mAH 45C Lipo Battery:

E-flite UMX Night Vapor First Indoor Shop Flight With E-flite 150mAH 45C Lipo Battery (4 min 54 sec)

Links to this E-flite Night Vapor: Hobbyzone: & Amain:
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 07:41 PM | 3,149 Views
10.3 miles burned 217mAh/mile. The last mile was with a heavy payload. This exposed a serious lack of torque, compared to the lunchbox. Integrals tend to wind up & send it flying on level ground. It can't get up any hills. The motors didn't obviously get hot. There's definitely a power band as evidenced by the integral windup.

The lion kingdom is undecided on what to do about the paw controller. Making just a mockup with those intricate controls takes forever. There's some debate about getting rid of proportional steering when it's stopped & even more, getting rid of proportional throttle. The hall effect throttle would just be for detecting reverse.
Posted by old4570 | Yesterday @ 07:30 PM | 3,153 Views
BG has some really nice deals for those in the USA .. - OMP S720 $83 USD - Dragonfly 700mm $30 USD - WL Toys F949 $52.50 USD - FMS 800 V tail $69 USD - Dancing Wings 1200mm T12 Balsa Trainer $61.50 USD

Oh man , ..... That T12 look interesting .
Posted by marblekit | Yesterday @ 01:08 PM | 4,056 Views
Posted by unboxingexp | Yesterday @ 12:35 PM | 4,169 Views
How to cover a wing with packing tape (3 min 1 sec)

This is a easy and cheap way to cover your foam wing. Make sure you use simple packing tape. It's way lighter than duct tape but strong enough.
Posted by flightengr | Yesterday @ 11:21 AM | 4,586 Views
Here's a Windows-based program I wrote that lets you manage the sound categories on your Spektrum NX or DX Gen2 transmitter. While you can add and edit categories on the transmitter itself (System Menu > Sound Utilities), I thought it was easier to do it on a bigger screen with a keyboard and mouse.

To use this program, simply unzip the contents of the ZIP file below. You just run the EXE file to run the program - there is nothing to install. The ZIP file includes the default categories for sound file version 1.09 in an SPM file (also below), which I made before I started the development process.

The program requires .NET Framework version 4.7.1 on your computer. That shouldn't be an issue at all on Windows 10, as the most current version is 4.8 and has been for a while. Windows 7 users might be challenged by that if you haven't updated for a couple of years. Here's a link to download .NET 4.7.2 from Microsoft if you need to. (The download begins immediately from that page.)

The EXE file is not digitally signed, so your anti-virus software will question it the first time you run it. I'm very paranoid about security myself, so I understand you're taking a leap of faith using it. It's not a virus, and it doesn't work with any data it's not supposed to. It's written with Visual Studio for .NET 4.7. I don't know what .NET does by default for any program Visual Studio creates, but my code doesn't access the registry, the network, or any files you don't tell it to open or save.

As I created it, here's the SHA-1 Checksum for the ZIP File (version 1.1): 0eac758b7d6970e5bcf65b494d522c834d524994

Documentation with screen shots is provided in the PDF file below.

DISCLAIMER: This program and the process of editing SPM model files exported from the transmitter is not supported by Horizon Hobby. Use this at your own risk.

Version History
Original Version 1.0 - January 16, 2021

Version 1.1 - January 17, 2021
Added a clipboard feature that allows you to copy your custom categories within the same file or from one file to another.
Posted by bidule | Yesterday @ 10:43 AM | 4,524 Views
Winter ...Confinement ...not much fun ...building a Mosquito from an 10 years old french Magazine ...always good for the spirit and I love balsa
normally was for gaz , mine he's electric , two JP Hobby retract and 2 out runner brushless motor
I modify the fuse , on the plan the bottom was square , I foam for a better shape .. not an easy build the nacelle are not that easy to build
I will post pictures following the build
Posted by GroundControlRC | Yesterday @ 10:12 AM | 4,587 Views

Eachine Mini Mustang P51D Warbird - Expert Mode TX16S - High Wind Terror Fun! DustOff Flights 7 & 8

Get One Here: Eachine Mini Mustang P51D Warbird RTF

RadioMaster TX16S Transmitter

Eachine Mini F4U Corsair

Eachine Mini T-28 Trojan

Volantex Sport Cub 500

Banggood GCRC

Here is a link to the Video:

Here's a Link to the Playlist for the Eachine Mini P51D Mustang:

Spare Parts:

Lipo Battery 1S 360mAh for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Brushed Motor 10mm Hollow Cup for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Prop 130X70mm Propeller Set for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Gearbox for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Receiver Board Original 4 CH Onboard Servo for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Front Landing Gear Set for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane
...Continue Reading
Posted by TMacFPV | Yesterday @ 08:49 AM | 4,704 Views
I fly micro FPV drones (those that spin 4" props or less) and I'm constantly looking to improve upon the "components" for my builds.

One such "component" is the LiPo battery which actually is normally the heaviest "component" on your quad.
Now, I've been flying GNB and RDQ LiPos for quite some time and have been very happy with them.

Recently I came across a relatively new brand of LiPos, Auline. Noticed Auline has a 4S 1000 mah LiPo (60C) which is advertised as:
"a very powerful battery that is suited for micro long-range builds that utilize an XT30 connector."

I have been using the GNB 4S 1100 mah (50C) LiPo for this purpose, however, this "new" Auline is 8 grams lighter for about the same capacity (1000 mah vs 1100 mah). I have been getting at least 17 minutes of flight time with the GNB so I thought "Wow, I wonder what I can get out of this new Auline at about the same capacity but 8 grams lighter!"

Here's what I found out
Micro FPV Drone Battery (AULINE 4S 1000 mah LiPo) (9 min 35 sec)

Posted by PittSpecial | Yesterday @ 07:32 AM | 4,922 Views
My original "Park Zone" T-28 Trojan (NAVY) survived almost one solid week (December 1st, through December 6, 2020) day and night exposure to a Brackish water Lake adjacent to our RC Club field. This model came from someone here in Orlando, Florida who modified it with Servo-less Retracts and has now endured two (2) crashes. One to solid Mother Earth Ground (Nose In) and now to a Man Made lake with all kinds of creatures lurking and nibbling at it.

The Tail feathers did NOT delaminate nor decals after all this exposure from the Sun and Water.

Perhaps the Original "Park Zone" NAVY Trojan was made better?

Oh, the servos are still original! (Less of course the Power System).

Here's my Video and pay attention to the pictures after post re-maiden flight and repairs! (Eye Candy)

Park Zone T 28 NAVY 44 inch wing span Trojan retracts post crash repairs 01 16 2021 (2 min 26 sec)

Posted by Tazkiller85 | Yesterday @ 06:01 AM | 5,095 Views
Yep Les Amis,
Pas le meilleur de la marque mais fiable ! J'ai en test aujourd'hui le nouveau MotoWhoop 90HD de chez HGLRC. Un petit appareil toujours bien conçu et très bien équipé ! Pas de mauvaise surprise au déballage ou à la mise en route et une très bonne surprise en vol indoor. La carte AIO ZEUS en F722 apporte un plus à son prédécesseur en matière de précision de pilotage. Parfait pour s'initier au FPV ou au vol à vue, ce petit Whoop de 90mm est résistant aux chocs et assez agile. On note cependant un léger manque de puissance ou portance soit du à son poids soit aux hélices pas tout à fait adaptées peut être. Il est donc plus à l'aise en cruising et ballades qu'en freestyle. La Caddx Nébula est suffisante sur ce type d'engin mais reste en dessous de la Vista. En bref, un investissement qui reste honorable en HD si vous ne recherchez pas de grosses perfs ! ... Bon Film et merci à tous pour votre soutien .

HGLRC MotoWhoop 90 HD - Review Test Démo - Pas mal ce petit Tank, mais pas ouf ... (31 min 54 sec)

Débutants et confirmés
Les + : Bien réglé en sortie de boite, Très résistant, Bonne conception, Bien équipé , Agréable à piloter pour la ballade.
Les - : Autonomie moyenne, Nébula moins précise que Vista, Un peu lourdaud pour du freestyle.

Chez HGLRC :
- HGLRC Motowhoop 90 HD :

Chez Banggood :
- HGLRC Motowhoop 90 HD ( coupon BGAFF10OFF ) :
- Lipo 3S 550mAh : ou ...Continue Reading
Posted by Mucksmear | Jan 15, 2021 @ 10:26 PM | 5,786 Views
Background: In the early 90's I started my first 1/4 scale build, an A&A Industries Citabria by Bud Nosen. It took me about 15 years on and off to just frame the left and right sides of the fuselage. When my kids were born, I picked up the pace and managed to finish her by 2007. After a successful test flight and just a few flying sessios, I mistimed a flight, ran out of battery and got too low to dive for speed and too slow to flare, so it mushed into the rough terrain slightly nose down. There was significant damage to the LG mounting plate and the fuselage bottom in that area. The motor mount also came loose and there was some minor wing strut damage too. Then we lost our field (BARCS) and the airframe just sat in the shop for the next 13 years until now.

The original build threads are here:

The LG was mounted with steel screws - if I had used nylon bolts, the damage would probably have been constrained to the area below the LG plate instead of including the longerons and some of the fuselage sides. The LG plate has been re-attached and the bottom longerons on each side have been re-spliced with new stock. You can also see the irregular patch on the fuselage side, surrounding the strut attachement slot. This whole area was crunched on both sides of the fuse. The original fuse bottom covered the LG in a continuous slab. I had to remove one wheel to slide the LG out. This time I'm making the whole section a hatch so the LG drop straight in.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Jan 15, 2021 @ 07:19 PM | 6,178 Views
Version 3 finally managed to go 6.4 miles with no payload, over hills & bumps, with minimal stops. Power consumption was a whopping 175mAh/mile. It could go over 20 miles without a payload, on a single battery. It could also go 10 miles on a much lighter battery. The motors might benefit from a hotter winding, pending speed tests & payload tests. The motors weren't obviously hot after the drive.

Despite the bumps, the encoders stayed in place. The PID controllers were soft. The hard tires made it squirly. The mane limitation was now the paw controller. The controls need to be spaced out 10mm in every direction & it needs to be bigger. The lion kingdom has been leaning towards getting rid of the isogrids & the dual thickness in favor of simplifying it.

The battery compartment needs foam. The bolts need lock nuts. The tires held up well. Despite the hall effect joysticks, binary steering proved much easier than analog steering.

The low power consumption was manely from the hard tires & very little contact patch. Less benefit was from being direct drive, lions believe.

The encoders still required printing spacers to tweek the alignment. They're not as stable as hoped, but at least they just need 1 magnet & 2 sensors. Having the sensors too close to the magnet causes bigger constant regions of voltage. Moving the sensors farther from the magnet axially creates more changing regions. There still might be a way to make the software use past encoder readings to deglitch the current reading.

The steering PID controller needs to reverse direction when driving in reverse. The lion kingdom only realized it after 7 years of failing to hold a straight line in reverse. The trick is transitioning between fwd & rev.
Posted by William A | Jan 15, 2021 @ 05:18 PM | 6,223 Views
Posted by UpNup | Jan 15, 2021 @ 04:07 PM | 6,471 Views
No manual exists. I saw an ancient blurry photo online that held the key.

1. Epoxy ply rails in place, buttress them, and drill holes. It is easy to do this if the fuselage is not fully in place. Otherwise you’ll have to cut. Use a micro-saw against the grain of balsa and a hobby knife with the grain.

2. Connect the steering mechanism first. Run a stiff line from rudder servo to the clevis at the swivel point. I’d recommend a braided cable if a wire rod isn’t available. I ran mine inside a flex tube that was epoxied to the fuse every two inches. The steering mechanism must swing parallel to the motion of the retract. The nose wheel strut must be firmly held into place by an Allen screw.

3. Open the control rod metal clevis and put the outermost swing arm inside the clevis pin. Make sure the clevis pin goes to the outside away from the strut. Put a metal clip in the brass pin of the clevis. Do not use any other method to secure the clevis such as a 1/16” portion of fuel line.

4. Make sure the nose retract locks both down and up. The control rod clevis for the retract must match the distance. I recommend doing this in the down position.

5. Screw the retract in place making sure the blind nuts seat or bite firmly into the ply rail.

6. A mechanical retract typically uses one strong servo and bends wires into a round servo control piece. Make sure the servo is the the down position when hooking up the clevis arms on the retracts.

Note. The photos were taken when replacing broken retracts that had been epoxied into place. The Hobbico mechanical retracts from 1995 did not match the holes of their 1999 version. All the innards did match, so I swapped out the sides. For whatever reason both old and new nose wheel retracts had rail screws glued into place. Two of the four screws in EACH retract had to be sawed off.