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Archive for December, 2014
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 26, 2014 @ 09:55 AM | 3,695 Views
I was taking some comparison pictures of my FA-45S and the new 56 I just got. Seeing as they are the same size crank case, I wanted to see what all physical differences there were between the two.

I also figured since it was out I would put it on the stand and run a tank through it. It started on the 3rd flip. I had a MA 11x6 propeller and Omega 10% fuel.

I recorded 10,500RPM @WOT and a nice 2400RPM steady idle. This is one sweet running engine and the one Saito that I have the most run time on. Although I am not sure how much it really is. It is also the engine I have had the longest; I think I bought it around 2000.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 23, 2014 @ 01:20 PM | 4,839 Views
I strapped my newly acquired 91S to the test stand today for its inital few runs. Normally I am a stickler about adhering to the manufacturers break-in instructions; however I do not necessarily agree with what Saito states.

First they state for a 91 open the needle valve 2 1/2 full turns from closed. I open it 3 full turns. Then they state do not run the engine above 4000 RPM for the first 10 minutes of operation, but they do not state whether or not this 4K is acheived @WOT with the needle valve or the intial needle settings and only run 4K using the throttle setting. Most manufacturers state to run at WOT and achieve the RPM range with the needle valve.

Either way this is what I did: Open 3 full turns and run the engine at various throttle settings througout the fuel tank(s). I assure you 3 turns open is a VERY rich setting. I did not allow the RPM to go above 8000 max on the first tank. I was using a Master Airscrew 14x6 propeller.

I have been breaking in Saito engines since 1991 and I have never had a premature failure, or any failure of any kind on one. So I am quite sure my procedure will yield a favorable result again.

This engine started on the first flip and ran like it had already been run before. Sure it will benefit from a bit of leaning in a few tanks, but it ran quite well. It would hold a steady 3300 RPM idle on this initial tank too. I ran 2 tanks in total today. There was a nice cloud of white exhaust drifting through the neighborhood...

I was comparing this engine to my 65 a few days ago. I took the carbs off of each and compared them side by side. You can see how different they are, and the throat size of the 91 is enormous.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 22, 2014 @ 10:12 AM | 4,326 Views
It had to happen some time; I could not let this engine sit around forever. I just put 2 tanks of Omega 10% through the engine. I strapped an APC 10x6 on it , swapped out the glowplug that was in it. It was not a standard Enya plug, in fact it looked like a Fox plug with a big idle bar. I typically do not run plugs with idle bars in ANY engine unless absolutely necessary. It was not in this case.

Following the instructions for starting and break-in, I put about 5 drops of fuel into the carb and flipped the prop several times. It took exactly 1 flip for this engine to start!! I had the needle valve set to 3 turns out which was a bit much.

Using my tach I leaned the mixture until I had 8500 RPM @ WOT. This may sound like a lot but it was still blubbering rich, although it would run without the ignitor on.

Tank 2 I leaned it to 9000 RPM. I will run sesequent tanks leaning slightly each time until I get to about 11K-12K RPM. The listed RPM range for this engine is 8K-16K RPM. I do not fly pylon racers or anything like that so I will not lean this above 12K PRM on the ground for general flying.

I had the air bleed screw set to the mid way closed setting, a good setting for any air bleed carb to begin with, and the engine would hold a very nice 3000 RPM idle. Transistion was not ideal as yet but it is just the first few tanks. At no time did the engine stall or hesitate at all through the runs. I would hold WOT for 10-12 seconds and then drop to mid to low for 10-12 seconds.

All and all just another high quality Enya engine!
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 10, 2014 @ 05:58 PM | 3,729 Views
I have just recieved the second Enya SS 40BB I have owned. I sold the first after it had been broken in on the bench. This one will never be sold. There is just something about the Enya engines that screams quality and this engine is an example of that.

No longer made this late 80's design, I believe, features a cast iron hand lapped piston which when broken in properly broken in will last an indefinite period of time. Dual ball bearing supported crankshaft easily accessed with the front end removed. There is no removeable backplate on this engine, just the front end. The machining is second to none and the simple yet tried and true air bleed carb makes tuning a piece of cake. This is certainly not the strongest 40 sized engine out there but the quality and simplicity of design make it a classic.

As soon as I sold my first I regretted it, I won't be making that mistake again.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 06, 2014 @ 03:23 PM | 3,911 Views
So I had sold several other engines and an airplane to purchase my Christmas gifts to myself. I also recieved in the mail today a NIB Saito FA-91S that a wonderful member on this forum parted with. It is about 98% complete, but for the price I cannot complain. The few items missing are the prop washer, proper prop nuts and the 12mm x 14mm box head wrench. The wrench I have plenty of and the prop washer and nuts can be obtained from my LHS, so no problem at all.

I can tell this engine has never had a drop of fuel through it by the look, feel, and smell of it. I actually sold a well used no box FA-91S to help fund the NIB one I was looking for.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 06, 2014 @ 03:05 PM | 3,867 Views
So I picked up another nice deal here from a fellow member on this forum. A very WELL used Enya 60-4C, for $50. It was engine only no box, tools, or exhaust. There are very high resolution pictures in the ad so I knew what I was getting.

I immediately began the normal tear down. It seemed to have decent compression. Numerous dings and clear signs of good solid use.

With the front end off I immediately could tell this was not the original set of bearings in this engine. The front was a sealed kind, sealed on both sides which is usually not done. The rear looked good and both felt ok. Although the front had a bit of damage; the front seal was pressed in a bit. The crank shaft, amazingly, tapped right out of the front end leaving both bearings in place. I quickly and easily tapped the front bearing out to better inspect it. It will do for now. I also saw some damage inside the front end from when the rear bearing had been removed. A pretty nice chunk of the bearing shoulder was taken out. We will see how this affects operation, but it should be alright. That can be seen in the last picture.

I did not remove the valves as they felt nice and smooth with no sticking at all. When I removed the rocker arm holder I found the head screw beneath it was not torqued at all.

The piston came right out and had no dark areas on it at all. The view of the valves showed some running but no hot spots or excessive carbon build up. It looked pretty darn good really.
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