Posted by PittSpecial | Today @ 02:05 AM | 70 Views

As reported a few pages back, I have noticed that the Left wing had what appeared to be Hangar Rash but, WAIT a Second...................a closer look yield an UGLY thing known as Retract Almost Punch Through syndrome Certainly, we all know that I am the 3rd owner so, who knows what happened before my ownership. ALL I KNOW "IS" I have been pretty gentle with this model and it lands like a docile Trainer but, yes these Retracts / Struts don't give so, the landings have to be picture perfect. Otherwise, the motor end of the Retract tends to bend into a THIN PIECE of foam and you will see it protrude on the top side of the wing!

Okay, finally had some time to do this and the only way was coming home from work and taking a lap for 2 hours and now I am refreshed and doing an ALL NIGHT-ER of sorts and I feel like a Freight Train and going to town with this model. I am pretty happy with my results and the ONLY MOD was to insert a 1/16th Basswood inside where the Left Retract goes and insert this piece at the deep end of the wing where there's sufficient foam (Strength) and using WHITE Glue to keep it stay! Additionally, using two small washers, I was able to lift the Motor End of the Retract some so, it will have a higher sitting and not tend to go directly and punch through so easily. I am hoping that the Basswood would keep it from punching through during a hard landing.

What I am amazed "IS" the rather THIN PIECE of FOAM in this area...Continue Reading
Posted by GroundControlRC | Today @ 12:16 AM | 89 Views
Tutorial - Repairing a Mistake with your Foam Board

Here is a link to the Video:

Well, it happens to all of us, sooner or later your going to make a mistake in your plans or you just cut in the wrong place.
I made a mistake in my plans with my servo placement and was faced with either losing my wing plate and starting over or repairing my wing plate.
I chose the latter, let's repair this wing plate and not lose all the work we have already put into it.

Build, Fly, Crash, Repair, Rinse & Repeat!

Happy Flying!

See Us On Youtube | Patreon | RCGroups | Facebook
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 11:46 PM | 95 Views
To make the miles more interesting, the decision was made. Originally wanted to discard the ears & just use the antlers, but didn't have the stomach to tear it all apart, despite being $1. The intact antlers are easier to break down. The nose was an LED light bulb with a red LED replacing the white LEDs. The red LED needed a diffusing cover in the form of translucent heat shrink which is no longer made.
Posted by dsquad | Yesterday @ 10:36 PM | 119 Views
This video is a review for the H108 boat, it's a great boat for the price, excellent build quality... check the review and videos in action here:
H108 High Speed Racing Boat Review (9 min 39 sec)

Posted by julinator04 | Yesterday @ 07:23 PM | 190 Views
Ok I got it. You ordered the wrong cable. And you just realized it and now you are mad.

That's exactly what happened to me.

But dont worry. I got you. There's a way you're flying tonight and you don't have to wait for the next delivery

The difference between the Data and Simulator Cable is that the Simulator Cable got only two cables for Ground and PPM output and the Data cable got 3 cables for Ground TX and RX port.

So what you want to do is cut your USB side of the data cable and solder it up to a 3.5mm headphone jack. You will probably have to check yourself which cable goes where but these pictures of the PINs will probably help you.

Solder the grounds together (s-video ground is the ring around)
Solder one of each remaining cables of the S video to your 3.5mm jack left or right canal cable doesnt matter which.

Now we have working flysky data cable with headphone jack instead of usb.
Our right and left channel of the 3.5mm jack is going to the "TX" and "RX" output (see in the picture) of the Transmitter
But that's not what we wanted. To gain access to the "PPM" output of the TX we will have to short circuit two pins.

I did this by just putting a stiff cable into the "PPM" and "TX" ouput of the Transmitter. Now the S-video cable goes a little bit harder into the Transmitter but it's fine. I attached a picture showing how it looks now

Done !

How to get the Transmitter working in your Simulator (with SmartPropoPlus etc.) is shown in other Blogposts. Check these out for more information. This topic is more than saturated.

I couldnt find this help anywhere so I hope I could help you.
I'm happy to help if you got any questions.

Happy Flying !
Posted by JohnVH | Yesterday @ 06:44 PM | 237 Views
Having a blast with the trusty ol Tundra!
Durafly Tundra on Wiser Lake Washington (7 min 6 sec)

Get one here at HobbyKing!
Posted by Johnjules | Yesterday @ 06:34 PM | 190 Views
Hi everyone,
I have taken up my RC plane flying hobby again and need some help with this. (Have 5 incomplete planes and two ready to fly)
Some advise about all sorts.

I am in need of a Futaba FB-RFYM2-FM Charger + power pack.
Engine ungumming advice.
Glowplug Battery and charger.
Repair materials to repair wing and fuselage coverage.
Lots of little repair materials.
I have many spare servo's I could trade or sell.
Please message or even better call me at 07791853932
Posted by Border Lord | Yesterday @ 12:21 PM | 364 Views
Hi All

This will be an occasional (probably very) series on a build of a Blade 300CFX purchased as a bare airframe off e-bay.
Have to admit most of my fleet is either Align or clone. Got into E-Flite because a mate asked me to repair a couple of his models which turned out to be a Blade 400 fb and a 450X fbl.
Both of these are now fixed and flying well, but two things became apparent. First was I liked the layout and lightness of the models, second was the silly parts prices.
Anyway, searching for a main gear for a reasonable price someone pointed out that the 450X and the 300CFX shared the same gear. Even offered to lend me one of his spares to get me out of trouble, generous guy. Turned out I didn't need it, but I did a google search for the CFX and it turned out it had a couple of interesting features.
E-Bay search came up with a bare airframe for a reasonable price (£45) so the die was cast.
This was bought from an E-bay seller in this country, so the parcel arrived pretty quickly. In fact the day before it was expected.
Good news was, in addition to the airframe he also included a big bag of spares. Enough, in fact, to build another complete frame if I needed it:

Decided not to get into it until all my other projects were finished, but you know how these things suck you in.
So, first couple of items.
Model came without a canopy. Quick search revealed new canopies could cost £27 or so. That's more than half the complete airframe, so not for me.
Root...Continue Reading
Posted by TinkleWid | Yesterday @ 10:40 AM | 383 Views

Initial Review from flying with the TopSky Prime S1 Goggles after using a set of Eachine Goggles for 10 months.

Overall, a frustrating day but there is hope in sight once TopSky release a production version!

I have written to TopSky and am awaiting a response!!

TopSky Prime 1S FPV Goggles WARNING 🐢 Caddx Turtle V2 🕶️ VTX Issue 🕶️ Box Goggles Comparison (4 min 39 sec)

Equipment Used:
TopSky Prime S1 🕶️
Flying the Kwad Karl (Bando Racer 3) BR3 Frame
XJB 145 build and motors
Caddx Turtle v2
VRD2 Pro Goggle
Jumper T8SG
Gemfan 3052

Caddx Turtle Settings: 1080p 60FPS
Wide FoV
7 saturation
1 Sharpness
5 Contrast
5 Brightness
EV -0.3
WDR on

Go Pro Lens (if you have space in the frame)
caddx turtle v2 vs runcam split mini 2
Posted by Logan3Messi10 | Yesterday @ 09:40 AM | 422 Views
I'm looking for a good first tenth scale car, budget is 150 US Dollars. I keep looking and can't find anything that's actually a good price while being pretty good quality. I just can't pay over 200 for one really.
Posted by navigator2011 | Dec 13, 2018 @ 08:32 PM | 684 Views
I absolutely love my Trex 150X for flying around my front yard, practicing maneuvers. I've been putting 6-7 packs through the 150X every morning for nearly a year, now, and I love it! Perfect size for my front yard, and super quiet too! All I really hear is the blades ripping through the air. There's a lot of negativity about this heli, so I thought I'd post about my positive experience with my 150X and a few tips that may be helpful.

Although I have a few bigger helicopters, I like to use micro helicopters to migrate new skills from my simulator to the real world. Like many pilots, I have a mental barrier to trying something completely new with a larger, more expensive helicopter. And then there's the intimidation factor--it's enough to just freeze my hands! My solution to this gestalt was to buy a Blade Nano CPS and then convince myself that it's disposable and thus crash-able.

I made a lot of progress flipping and flying inverted with the Nano CPS, but I became increasingly frustrated with the behavior of the brushed motors, the twitches, and the tail blow-outs. I have arrived at a skill level where more crashes are caused by the helicopter's anemic power and tail authority than my dumb thumbs. So I pulled the trigger on the Trex 150X.

The 150X's performance is so much better than the Nano CPS, and also my Blade mCPS, particularly in the tail area. Continual tail blow-outs had been just killing my Blade helis! The 150X, on the other hand, has enough power and...Continue Reading
Posted by old4570 | Dec 13, 2018 @ 07:46 PM | 666 Views
11 Days till Christmas ( Xmas to some )

Ripit Update .

Replaced the music wire for the rudder .
I put in originally a U bend in the wire for tweaking alignment , but turns out it was a spot for flexing . So the rudder was soft .
Replaced and now I have rudder .

I also put a decent sized nut on the front of the model to move the CG forward .
The Rip flies so much better for it . Chalk and cheese .

Raven Update .

Went to the park to peg it . ( peg launch )
Oh boy , launches really nice I have to say .
CG is too far back , I went for the factory recommendation and No ( no no no ) .
Going to try and move the CG forward at least 10mm .

Broke the Raven again .
This time the vertical fin broke along the bottom of the carbon boom .
Its been given a injection of cyno , so hopefully fixed ( even the carbon in the fin broke )

Flying weight , mine comes in right at about 150 grams wet .
And so far :

A) The tail area seems very fragile .
B) Launches so nicely
C) Factory CG recommendation = ??????????
D) Retail Price = I think it's too high for what you get ( Sorry )
E) Maybe a ARF version for $100
F) The raven has serious potential I think . ( Butt ) Are they going to develop it and address issues ?

EDF update !

My 30mm ED came ...
And I have started a new EDF project ..

30mm EDF from Banggood (1 min 33 sec)

Posted by Pierre_de’ Loop | Dec 13, 2018 @ 07:25 PM | 664 Views
I stumbled on these pictures in an old photo album. They show a rocket glider I built in middle school sitting on the launch pad plus a shot of it taking off. I put a few flights on it and then hung it from my bedroom ceiling. I recall using a plastic nose cone to taper the back and placing the bottom of that nose cone at the front. I used plastic straws for launch lugs and launched it at an modest angle. It flew on a mini A motor, climbed out at a shallow angle, and then found its wings in time to glide back at a surprisingly gentle speed. The canopy and pilot were from a 1/48 scale Testors plastic model kit of the F-19 Stealth fighter.
Posted by burkefj | Dec 13, 2018 @ 06:50 PM | 657 Views
Here's another I decided to kit. I figured my Iron Cross (Das Ugly stik) themed rocket glider needed a good guy to keep him in check. So I was inspired by the P-26 peashooter and inter-war us army air corps color schemes and here is the final product. 2.6" diameter, 34" long, 23" winspan and 11 oz rtf using a 24mm E-6 long burn motor.

Dynasoar Rocketry Peashooter RC Rocket glider flights (5 min 43 sec)

Posted by Mike_eee | Dec 13, 2018 @ 04:30 PM | 702 Views
stock motor

YEP 100 A esc : drop fit cutting, no shaving, no modification LinK:

castle 10 A BEC

Aeronaut 7x7 prop

battery: nanotech 2.2 70-150C 4s

watts : 1046 at 74 A

upgraded set up :

Cobra CP-2814-2000 Brushless Motor, Kv=2000: link:

YEP 100 A esc : drop fit cutting, no shaving, no modification LinK:

castle 10 A BEC

Aeronaut 7x7 prop

battery: nanotech 2.2 70-150C 4s

watts : 1621 at 110-115 A
Posted by J Morgan | Dec 13, 2018 @ 04:26 PM | 792 Views
With the Me-263 finished, I've started the Ziroli A-1H build here:
Posted by Mike_eee | Dec 13, 2018 @ 04:13 PM | 714 Views
Project T-28

Carbon z t-28
Aspire sound system
MrRc. Machine guns and lights
Castle. Esc. 2x BEC”s
Custom cockpit
Callie graphics
Dubro. Control rods / Clevis
MAS prop
Home Depot paint 😜

T-28 Trojan RC Plane (Carbon Z) (4 min 8 sec)