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Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 04, 2019 @ 07:00 AM | 6,576 Views
Hey guys, trying to gauge interest in old WL Toys V212-V262 parts such as props and other repair parts. (no circuit boards). I'm guessing those who are would be interested in bulk buying and not onesies\twosies? Let me know. Thanks.

Well all the WL Toys parts have gone to the recycling bin

In addition, I noticed images weren't working. For some silly reason, the image tags need to be modified so if you need to see images for an old post, let me know (link me the post) and I'll update the image tags.
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Sep 24, 2016 @ 01:24 PM | 50,023 Views
MassiveRC has decided to close its doors. I would like to thank all of our customers, friends, family, associates, our lone employee, team pilots, and especially my loving wife for their staunch support. Last year my family decided to make the move to South Dakota and leave the business in Florida. I knew the risks and consequences of doing so.

My focus in life has admittedly shifted from FPV racing, which I was once very passionate about, but being in South Dakota has shifted my passion and priorities and while I've tried to make a last-ditch effort to revive MassiveRC, it just wasn't in God's plan. I'm very thankful for the experience and early success and even with some of the failed ventures, don't hold any grudges and sincerely wish the best to those involved.

While MassiveRC will be closing its doors, my family is doing fine and will survive, which I'm very grateful for as there are many who can't say the same in today's economy. The closing of MassiveRC is quite frankly worth the trade-off as my quality in life living in South Dakota has never been better, so I have no regrets.

We will be liquidating all inventory, most at below cost so you'll be able to jump on some good deals. Please be patient though as orders may take a couple days vs going out the same day as we wind down.

Thank you again for your support and may God bless,

Romeo Barrera, aka MassiveOverkill
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Aug 02, 2015 @ 06:04 PM | 143,130 Views
MassiveRC ZMR 250 PDB Instructions

These instructions are written with the premise that you have some basic soldering and electro-mechanical skills. It isn’t too difficult to install but you should plan out the installation of your components and check clearances before trying to install anything. It’s important to use flux (not just rosin core solder but a have a tub of low corrosion flux) on all your connections. Higher heat may be required for some connections such as the ESC power leads and especially the LiPo battery connector. It's also very important after each soldering step to check your work for shorts. As with any instructions you use, ALWAYS read them from beginning to end before attempting any work.

Thanks to Michael for also doing a pictorial:

The benefits of our ZMR PDB is that it comes with 5V and 12V regulators already included as well as buzzer and headers so they're no need to purchase additional Pololu regulators. Each regulator can handle 3A load. If you have ESCs with BEC circuits you could use them instead of the provided regulator, but the provides ones will produce cleaner power in addition to a 12V tap so you should use them instead. It's very important you don't try to use both your ESC BEC and the included regulators at the same time. If for some reason you don't want to use the regulators, then leave the solder bridges intact.

This diagram shows the locations of the solder bridges that must...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | May 11, 2015 @ 10:04 AM | 59,810 Views
In our effort to stop the senseless killing of inanimate objects , we continue our series of saving more innocent victims of our precious hobby.

Many motors come with multiple sets of motor mounting bolts. Most of you who've never done this before will gravitate towards the longest bolt sets because as many of us are males, we will cater to our machismo. Some will select the longest bolts simply because our mechanical experience tells us it will give a better anchor.

Arm widths can vary in thickness so that's why multiple bolts are supplied to accomodate. You should ALWAYS check to make sure when your bolts are tightened all the way down they're not trying to impale the hard-working and very innocent motor coil.

Here you can see a bolt that's too long installed:

And the resulting damage and slaughter of the innocents:

If you're lucky, and you didn't actually sever the coils like in the above photo, you can possibly still salvage the motor by making sure that the short only existed when the bolt was touching and you didn't damage the stator tooth, reapply some nail polish or shellac to the coils to re-insulate them and apologize profusely for your transgression.
Posted by MassiveOverkill | May 01, 2015 @ 12:42 PM | 60,591 Views
I'm writing his tutorial because our new Emax bundle now includes OneShot ESCs capable of doing 4S. As a result, we've chosen to go with ESCs without BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuits), due to most BEC circuits being of the linear type, which are inefficient and generate heat vs switching circuits which are more expensive and not commonly found in ESCs with an integrated BEC circuit. I've received many questions on how to wire up a dedicated BEC so I thought I'd show a tutorial on how I do it as well as showing how to wire up the other components we sell.

Below we have a layout of one of my typical installs. Please note the 5V BEC regulator isn't actually soldered to the PDB but I've placed the wires in the appropriate positions of where you would solder them. Also note that I don't have the ESC power wires soldered to the PDB as this is a mockup. I may replace this picture with something more accurate at a later date.

Essentially in the above picture we have:

1) PDB which has been tapped for directly voltage from the LiPo as well as our BEC module attached. As previously mentioned our ESCs would also be soldered
2) Going clockwise we have our dedicated BEC\Voltage regulator which then feeds our FCB via any of the spare servo\motor output channels
3) From the FCB we feed our wide voltage FPV camera (HS1177) through the other open servo motor channel. Note that you should only plug low amp draw devices into your FCB for power such as your receiver or...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Apr 29, 2015 @ 04:29 PM | 59,195 Views
Please stop the senseless and needless slaughter of Mobius wide lens cameras. I see new victims being targeted: RuncamHD. Who or what is the evil villain killing innocent Mobius Wide Lens cameras?


Many Charpu wannabes have fallen for THE WEDGE, choosing to mount their wide lens Mobius cameras on top these purveyors of death, not realizing that in an upside side or frontal crash, they're most likely to kill their wide lens. The lens module, not wanting to die alone often takes out the PCB with it, because as we all know: misery loves company.

The solution:

Even toy-grade multirotor companies realize 'Wouldn't it be nice if the lens could be rotated within the housing?' Why can't we have this feature built into our expensive HD cameras?

Eletoponline, Runcam, you two listening?

Until either of the above implement this much-sought feature you have a couple of options:

Buy a 3Dprinted housing that allows for the lens module to be repositioned:

or you can mod your existing housing. I took a mini hacksaw and cut out the top of my Mobius case and also removed the mounting ribs on the bottom of the case, slapped it back together and held the lens in place with hot glue. I intended to use Sugru but the damn stuff has a shelf life of ludicrous. The results:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Apr 23, 2015 @ 07:55 AM | 59,291 Views
Thanks to 2bluesc work and creating the CleanHawk custom PDB for the Emax 250 / Storm Drone frames, you can really clean up your wiring and show some love for these frames that formerly only the ZMR 250 could enjoy. Please check out the CleanHawk PDB and my Emax 250 threads for additional info:


In this pictorial I install my CleanHawk PDB upside down and backwards. Upside down because I want to use the PDB's FCB mounting holes to mount my flight controller (you can't do it right-side up if you're mounting your micro ESCs directly to the board) and backwards for crash protection as I'm not using the Emax main plates.

Finally, those of you who want to get in on the 2nd run of the CleanHawk PDB, there won't be one unless we can get 200 pre-orders, so please pre-order. If we don't get enough pre-orders we'll refund your money without issue.

Before we go onto the pictorial I want to warn you that if you don't have good soldering skills (which means having good soldering equipment as well) and take into consideration that many of the solder points are in very close proximity and if you're not comfortable soldering pin headers, you should find someone who is. In this how-to, I'm covering the critical points and not generic ones like how to solder on pin headers.

Onto the pictorial:

It's important to have...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Apr 06, 2015 @ 07:06 AM | 58,315 Views
We've launched the Massive Acro Blackbox FCB with 2MB (16mb) NOW WITH 8MB (64Mbit) of onboard SPI flash. Thanks to TheNickDude and the rest of the Cleanflight crew, this feature will allow you to record flight data to memory which you can play back for tuning or troubleshooting. If you record video at the same time you can sync the two and see data playback overlaid ontop of your video playback.

Check out F1FPV's video on Blackbox:

F1FPV Now Episode 3 Cleanflight Blackbox (15 min 7 sec)

Examples of Dominic's, TheNickDude's, and Boris B's Blackbox\flight recordings:

Cleanflight - Mountain top LoS flying with Blackbox Logging (3 min 39 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 29, 2014 @ 09:51 PM | 71,988 Views
Another short but sweet blog.

This is a simple pitch-only gimbal for the Mobius that could also be applied to the 808 using an 8" extension cable.

I used the micro servo out of my Joysway Super Mono X.......bracket and all and zip tied it to the servo arm using some foam tape to help keep it secure:

The holes of the bracket line up pretty well with the Emax 250 Pro camera mount so I just zip tied it in place. I did have to add 5mm standoffs to the existing ones for extra clearance:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 19, 2014 @ 08:54 PM | 262,989 Views
If you've come here via this link: I want to clear up any confusion. The Nighthawk 250 Pro is an FPV racer and while it's possible to do acro flying with it, it's not going to defy physics like the quad in that video, which is purpose-built for extreme LOS acro, similar to the Warpquad or BPQ Acro. If you want to do LOS (Line Of Sight) flying with extreme acrobatic maneuvers like that video, the Emax 250 is not going to give you that. What the Emax 250 Pro is going to give you is this:

Official MassiveRC Team Pilot Joel flying the MassiveRC Emax kit. Only addition are the canted motor mounts. We cannot wait to get him on OneShot and 4S:

practice with friends (4 min 8 sec)

Time trial practice (3 min 8 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 14, 2014 @ 08:30 AM | 69,013 Views
This going to be a short but sweet one.

Dying Dyeing nylon parts is nothing new and there are plenty of YT vids out there on how to do this but some of you new to the RC hobby may not have heard of it before. An added benefit of boiling your nylon parts to dye them is that it makes them stronger\more flexible as Nylon can dry out.

The only drawback is that the nylon may swell a little bit, which could be good in some cases as the thread tapping job on some of these standoffs leaves them with loose clearances. In addition you don't want to use too much heat as you can warp the nylon. Finally be ready to clean up any overspill as the dye can do its job too well and dye your hands, white sink, clothes, etc.

To dye your Nylon parts you can use RIT, food coloring, or my cheapest solution: a $.29 pack of Kool Aid (I used sugar free as it should be less messy\sticky):

Green Apple is what I used but you can probably find flourescent green if you look hard enough and may have better success of finding whatever color you want as a food color dye.

I brought a pot of water up to boil, dumped the KoolAid in and then removed the pan from the burner and waited a minute for the water to cool down a little bit to prevent warping while stirring the mixture.

I then put the nylon parts into a strainer and the dunked the strainer into the pot agitating it every so often. I left the parts in there and let the batch cool naturally to room temperature and then pulled the strainer and rinsed the parts.

The results:

You can buy nylon standoffs in black and other places sell other various colors and those probably will come out looking deeper\richer in color. We'll probably sell them too but if you like the results you see in my attempt you can DIY on the cheap.
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Sep 03, 2014 @ 05:49 PM | 82,350 Views
Many of us have struggled trying to make our own anti-vibration mounts from foam, zip ties, surgical tubing, ear plugs, etc. A lot of these solutions are either bulky and require a lot of clearance above and\or below as well as take a lot of time to glue and engineer them. That's not to say they aren't good and this isn't meant to put down the ingenuity of those solutions.

The 'professional' mounts all use damping balls so why not use those? How do you mount them and what to? Well you have those old credit cards or spam advertising cards you get in the mail, why not put them to good use?

You'll need a standard 1/4" hand hole punch available at any office supply or crafts store and 2 credit cards. While you're there an 1/8" hole punch also comes in handy.

I suggest using some worn out cards you have laying around so you can experiment with making holes and testing. Once you've settled on pattern and determined if you need more or less dampening balls, you can punch your design into fresh plastic blanks. Here I'm using the mounting bracket off a Diatone frame:

Place your template over the card:

Punch your holes, don't worry if they're a mm or 2 off:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Aug 13, 2014 @ 11:20 AM | 76,777 Views
I haven't posted a blog in awhile so I thought I'd make a compilation of my Eye One Xtreme posts. Please also refer to Jamie's post, which is a collection of information on the EOX:

Also check out RC Loggers FAQ:

Checking Your Motor\Boom alignment

This should be part of your daily checks, especially after a crash. As you can see the left boom is tweaked:

To make sure it's the left boom and not the right, compare the prop tips with the props in front. The left prop should be pointing down when compared to the front left red prop. You should also check that your prop is true by spinning it 180 degrees and you should see the same amount of offset compared to the other prop.

To bring it back into alignment, loosen all four boom screws and GENTLY twist the boom (you obviously just want to twist the boom in the holders and not bend the plastic frame) , in this case, clockwise, which will bring it back in alignment, and then re-tighten your screws.

Here is the same boom after tweaking. As you can see, it's still 1-2mm off but much better than before:

Thanks to LMahesa for the reminder. Also check your motor mount for being twisted at the clamp. By reclamping the motor mount so it clamps straight, you can get some additional straightness in the alignment.

Failsafe check using LemonRX or other PPM receiver

I want to emphasize the importance of...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Feb 02, 2014 @ 12:33 PM | 74,550 Views
Link to discussion thread:

So there's no confusion, these aren't pre-programmed flips but manually-induced.

I think this is a pretty significant find in the V2X2 series quads. You can perform manual flips without haven't to change modes or go to 100% to do the autoflip. It's much more satisfying and I've never done manual flips in acro mode on other quads that have this feature but I wonder if it's the same technique.

I don't know if any other 'toy' grade quad can do a manual flip without having to go to acro mode or use a button, but I'd like to hear of any that can.

The benefit of doing it with full accelerometers is that after the flip you have the safety net of full stabilization without having to do anything.

I've tried it on my V212 and Jefte was able to perform It on his V202, although they're harder to do. The V252 does them best.

This was my first real attempt so I concentrated on forward flips but you can do them in any direction and keep going FFF after doing the flip as shown in Steve O's video:

WLtoys V252 doing indoor manual flips and stable hover using modded Devo 7E radio (2 min 19 sec)

WLtoys V252 Minipet Night Flight doing manual flips and high speed passes (4 min 28 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 03, 2013 @ 02:18 PM | 76,665 Views
FRE (Filipino Redneck Engineering) brings you another great WL Toys-based Frankenquad. This latest monster consists of a V252 Gumby board and upper frame mounted to a lightened V212 chasis. The result is a mini quad that's super accro when you want it to be with plenty of yaw rate and can go back to stable flight like it's bipolar.

Here we cut the booms off just past the LEDs

We secure to the frame with my favorite fastener of late, wire ties.

Indoor flight test:

This is the FrankenYaw: A V252 board on a V212 frame. Indoor test (3 min 30 sec)

Outdoor fight test:

This is the FrankenYaw: A V252 board on a V212 frame. Outdoor test (4 min 16 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Oct 30, 2013 @ 10:24 AM | 76,362 Views
Here's a quick tip to make your micro and mini LiPos slide into your battery bays easier. Simply smooth the folds over by running them against a smooth surface such as your table top. Fold the sides over first and then fold the ends over at the corners:

Left is folded over, right is stock:

Posted by MassiveOverkill | Oct 20, 2013 @ 11:27 AM | 95,429 Views
Theses are the specs of my V262 FPV setup:

Video transmitter: 5.8 Ghz 200 mW 58000 can run off of 3.3\5V
Video receiver: 5.8 Ghz RC 305
Flight Battery: Turnigy 950 mAh 25-50C LiPo

Both are fitted with cloverleaf antennas from Banggood

The VTX is powered by a standard 1S LiPo. I soldered a servo jumper on the VTX so I can transfer it and power it from my Walkera QR X350 and then made a servo-to-micro losi adapter for when I have it mounted on my V262. I took an H36 frame, trimmed it and mounted it upside down to the front of the V262 mainframe using wire ties. The VTX itself is Velcro secured to a cut piece of credit card that I screwed into the mainframe.

I've stripped the Mobius TV out cable of its outer jacket in order to save some weight. The Mobius is held on via wire ties using the holes in the Mobius chasis.


...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Aug 15, 2013 @ 03:22 PM | 85,342 Views
You'd think with a name like MassiveOverkill I would be anal about keeping my props balanced and with them being so cheap and getting scuffed up so quicky\easily you say to yourself "What's the point?". In addition you look at all the techniques and say to yourself "I don't have a prop balancer and it seems like a hassle to set up a CD and laser".

That was with micro quads. Playing more with mini's you don't crash them as much and balancing props the lazy man's way is actually easy to do.

The instructions I'm going to give you is for the RTF mini brushed quads such as the V929\949\959\212\222\262 series and not brushless hobby-grade ones where spinning up the props with the quad in your hand could be more dangerous.

All you need is some transparent tape.

To determine which props need balancing, simply hold your quad FIRMLY in your hand and point the boom with the prop you're checking down so when you apply throttle it spins up (almost exclusively) in response to the self leveling feature (this is important if you don't have a self-leveling quad you can still check for vibrations but not one by one).

Look at the gear guards for vibration. You should also be able to feel the vibrations transmitted to the mainframe as you hold it. Once you've noted which props vibrate badly tear off a 1/2" piece of tape and place it on the prop loosely near the tip on the top side of the blade. It doesn't matter which side you have a 50\50...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jul 25, 2013 @ 03:32 PM | 91,207 Views
Please reference my previous blog for frame lightening documentation:

The 808 and Mobius cameras will run fine off the Turnigy 600 mAh batteries. The micro quad batteries didn't have enough voltage stabilization, especially if you were doing video out, but the larger mini quads larger LiPos seem to have enough juice for at least 6 minutes worth of video.

I soldered on a battery lead in parallel to the main for powering the Mobius:

It runs underneath and extends to the front:

I butchered a V212 landing gear housing, keeping only the mounting bracket. you can see the stock frame\landing gear assembly on the left:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jul 01, 2013 @ 07:50 PM | 85,544 Views
OK here's my V212 FPV setup using an 808#16 camera's video out feature. I stripped the video out cable down so it only weighs 1.5 grams. I'm using a T58000 200mw VTX. I'm pretty happy with the setup but clover leaf antenna is definately in the future.

You can save considerable weight just from removing the landing gear skids as well as the sub-frame used to mount it. Removing those will shave 4.6 grams alone. In addition you can shave .8-1 gram from butchering the frame. I feel by cutting it in strategic places you can still maintain structural integrity:

UPDATE: I'm no longer using 3 LiPos. The 808 will run fine off the Turnigy 600, so now I only run a separate battery for the VTX.

The quad with 808 camera (A lens), VTX, cabling, and 2 808 LiPos weighs about 85 grams. I'm using a Turnigy Nanotech 600 35-70C LiPo for the main battery which weighs an additional 16 grams. For comparison, a fully-outfitted V959 with camera module weighs about 82 grams without LiPo.

...Continue Reading