Posted by ilipin | Jun 06, 2016 @ 12:47 AM | 6,451 Views
Verhnyaya (means Upper) Gubaha - small industrial town in middle of Russia, in Urals Mountains. 30 years ago it was abandoned. Citizens moved to new town nearby. Why all of the thousands inhabitants left the town?
Coke plant was built near the town. And in windless days air over place is not very useful for people.

Only the ruins of most tough buildings is remaining here. Most interesting construction - town palace.

Now some people still live here. Town officially is part of "live" Gubaha town. They have a electricity, roads is cleaning (we have a 6 month winter with 2meter snow), and water supplies. Some windless days thee have now very quality air, but they can left place on some hours.

Заброшенный поселок Верхняя Губаха с выс&#108 (7 min 43 sec)


Video and photo taken from multirotor.
Frame Tarrot T960
DJI A2 onboard

3axis gimbal with Sony RX100 m1 camera....Continue Reading
Posted by mfwilliams | Jun 06, 2016 @ 12:35 AM | 7,199 Views
Day 2 Sunday
Wow, it was a tough day. The temps reached 104deg! The winds gods did not cooperate. We still flew though. First stop of the day was Rowena Crest Viewpoint since the wind appeared to come out of the East. We had a little difficulty accessing the site due to the recent train derailment (the Mosier exit was closed). Since Larry was only with us for one day of flying, he took the first and only flight. After a few passes his Gulp promptly descended onto the winding road below the face. Luckily for Larry he was able to place it on soft grass just between the roadways. This was definitely the “highlight” of today’s flying.
After Larry’s lucky flight we decided to move on to Klickitat and see if we could find some alpine thermals. We caught some luck here. Lift was light, but flyable. Everyone got a chance to fly. Eddie, our NW noob got his first flight in. He was all smiles afterwards.
To cap off the day, we headed to our favorite Mexican restaurant for some Dos Equis’s and ice cream.

Mike

PS Larry just sent me two videos from our day at "Klick".

Amadeo fun (2 min 16 sec)


Day 1 Tom @ Klick (1 min 7 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Alaza12 Ziku | Jun 06, 2016 @ 12:09 AM | 1,953 Views
RC HELI EXTRIM HARD 3D (4 min 43 sec)

Posted by billyc4026 | Jun 06, 2016 @ 12:04 AM | 1,840 Views
I first decided to get the b5m because the track thats around is clay and mid motor is been better on clay and dirt rear motor because theirs more weight on the rear end thus giving it better traction on either lose loamy are hard pacjed dirt and these days their not like the 80's when their were more burms and straight aways. Nowadays with lipo batteries no more nicad or nihm even though they still sell them but your not gonna win races with the old tech. Now we have gone from wiper type speed controllers which was a pain because you seemed to be working on your buggy then driving it. I spent many hours in my best friends basement always soldering new wires on the speed controllers and charging a battery took 15 minutes if you didn't trikle charge it and you got to drive for about 8 minutes and because we both worked as paperboys we bought what we could afford and we drove with the same tires even if they were completely bald which work out well vecause we mostly drove either on tge street whichvwe did alot of to driving on the trails by his house. Back then their wasnt a track ariund during those years so we used our imaginations. We used the curbs as jumps and thats about it in 87. Then every year I got a new Rc for Christmas which were much cheapercand easier to put together than today's buggies. Our stick controllers had a 2 feet antenna well they were big telescopic until they came out with the pistol type Tx's which were much heavier than today but when you bought a new one they came with your controller ur receivers and 2 crystals plus ur fiur packnof battery holder tonturn on your electronics and most people I knew bought a 540 Trinity motor. My last buggies was the Frog which their digbones always stripped so if you had one you had to go leastv4 days acweek tobuy it. Until next week.
Posted by Jimbo Sailor | Jun 05, 2016 @ 10:46 PM | 4,105 Views
Ahoy all you Schooner Irene builders!
I have made leaps and bounds with the building of my own 'E Irene'!
The hull is all assembled, the deck is fit, rudder post installed, cabin and (converted) cargo hatch are installed and ready for the coach roof!

Some of the differences you will notice are that I have cut in more portholes and portlights.
What with living in the Pacific Northwest, and all the gloomy days come fall and winter, the extra light down belowdecks will be a welcome sight...not to mention the abundance of fresh air available when one uses the head!
I have also done away with the cargo hatch and am putting on a cambered coachroof complete with skylight.
Fishing days are a thing of the past, so watch for some crab and lobster traps to clutter up the decks!
As for the dinghy...I may just make up some davits and hang it from the stern, although I may still go with one on the cabin top.

I have been in contact with Gary and he has provided me with the plans-order-number and my number is '31'....which just so happens to be the exact sail number of a Contessa 26 that we used to have! Well, I guess this build was just meant to be!
I am going to incorporate this number onto a deck beam as you will see.

I asked Gary if I could use his initials as part of the 'registration' number. Not only did he say yes, but that I can share the idea with all of you!

Here is how I approached him with pictures of the completed deck beam, complete with a Newfie accent! .

...Continue Reading
Posted by Lycan Animal | Jun 05, 2016 @ 10:34 PM | 37,693 Views
Posted by Red Baron 1358 | Jun 05, 2016 @ 10:17 PM | 9,740 Views
The "Official" slideshow/video for the Red Baron's Turkey Shoot, held on June 4th, 2016 at the club field in Shelley, Idaho.

2016-06-04 Red Baron's Turkey Shoot (7 min 31 sec)

Posted by Paleomanjim | Jun 05, 2016 @ 09:48 PM | 4,054 Views
Posted by carguy1994ca | Jun 05, 2016 @ 09:34 PM | 29,452 Views
Here is a short clip showing the set up and flying of my mini swift. This set up is quiet for park flying but I wish for more speed. Will upgrade to a more powerfull power system later this summer.

MS composit Mini Swift - FPV set up (3 min 5 sec)

Posted by Jack Crossfire | Jun 05, 2016 @ 09:26 PM | 4,233 Views
So driving the motors on The Feiyu with standard stepper motor waveforms didn't work. The motors moved unevenly & appeared to cog, but no amount of current made any difference & the torque was way above cogging. After swapping in a bunch of alternative motors & manually stepping through phases, 1 problem was keeping the pulse register always above 0. When enabling deadband, the 0 value jumps across the deadband. The deadband itself doesn't cut away any other pulse values or change the pulse frequency. It merely compresses all pulse durations except 0 to fit in a shorter time.

The proper way to adjust current is not adjusting the deadband but changing the maximum value of the pulse register.

That made stepper motor unevenness behave more like cogging. There were 2 ways to smooth out the motion: slow down the frequency until the motor made an annoying whine or increase the current until the MOSFETs got too hot. Helas, the MOSFETs got too hot to solve the problem by always increasing current.

An example waveform from the original Feiyu would solve everything, but the original firmware is gone. What is known is the Feiyu dynamically increases current as the motor strays farther from its intended position. It uses the lowest possible current when the motor is in position.

Someone in China was pragmatic about motor cogging not being solvable by higher current or mechanics, so they set about solving it through a complicated orchestration of the hall effect sensor, current sense resistors, IMU, & PWM, all in the name of eliminating cogging using the smallest possible size.
Posted by butter | Jun 05, 2016 @ 08:59 PM | 5,084 Views
Battery Review for GensAce Lipo (4 min 7 sec)


Proffessional data to test Gens ace lipo battery,to share this video with you.
Posted by Joe Zip | Jun 05, 2016 @ 07:36 PM | 5,267 Views
The classic Radio Shack 'Project Box" provides just enough
room to house all the cord that comes with 7" TFT Banglillywang Monitor. Using a set of carbon fiber landing gear for a standing mount to hold the RC832-5.8G AVRcvr . Powered with a Puffy 2200 11.1 v., and using the balance plug Powers: Rcvr - 12v., Screen -12v., and aux. - 6v. (7,2) for Tx etc. . . a switch kills the power and requires no indicator (the screen is the 'on' light). With external access to the battery plug for charging or 12v. power (balancing can be done by opening up the box - but with minimal power draw it shouldn't be necessary, too often. I just don't have a lipo cut-off provision.
Posted by GBLynden | Jun 05, 2016 @ 06:24 PM | 3,102 Views
Here are my review notes for this WWII RC Warbird:

Pros
- It looks really good
- Faster than I expected for a 1S plane
- Landing gear stays on in the box
- Semi symmetrical airfoil
- Reinforced wing and control surfaces

Cons
- Pre-order issues
- Landing gear held up fine on the rough landing but I may upgrade the gear anyway
- Elevator asymmetry and too much upflection out of the box
- Slightly tail heavy out of the box

Here is the complete Unboxing, Maiden Flight, and Review:

Complete E-flite UMX B-25 Mitchell BNF Basic WWII Bomber Unboxing, Maiden Flight, and Review (17 min 13 sec)

Posted by Remotecontrolkid | Jun 05, 2016 @ 05:57 PM | 3,704 Views
I have an old 21.2cc leaf blower that I don't need. I was thinking of putting the engine on a 20cc airframe. Would this engine work? Thanks!
Posted by goebish | Jun 05, 2016 @ 04:31 PM | 65,904 Views
How to upgrade Flysky / Turnigy iA6B RX to firmware 1.6 with a ST-Link (Windows):

Use this procedure at your own risk

  • Download and install ST-Link driver:
    http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/...oftware-scroll
  • Download ST-Link Utility:
    http://www.st.com/content/st_com/en/...oftware-scroll
  • Connect the iA6B to the ST-Link:
    - connect a gnd pin of the receiver to gnd on the ST-Link
    - solder wires to CLK & DAT pads inside the RX then connect them to the ST-Link SWCLK & SWDIO pins:
  • Power the RX with 5V though a servo output pins then connect the ST-Link to USB
  • Launch ST-Link Utility
  • Set the Address field to 0x08000000 and Size to 0x8000
  • Click Connect to the target ()
  • Click Save (
...Continue Reading