R/C Blogs - RC Groups
Posted by wizzard363 | Today @ 03:46 AM | 102 Views
Not the dearest model out there but at just over $2K for air frame and electrics I want to get things right.
Started withe the rudder servo just to get a feel of how things will go on this build .
The Pulsar is a very well built air frame and the quality of the electrics installation should reflect that .
I made the control rod to the exact length and used ply from a spare servo frame to make the servo mount .
Used the horns that were supplied with the kit .
Very happy with the hardware package that was supplied with this model .
Posted by Hawksky Motor | Today @ 03:26 AM | 107 Views
N52SH Curved magnets
Japan 0.15mm silicone steel sheet, Japan NMB bearing,
Durable motor with best materials. 7.7g
The material can change depend on your requirment,also if you give us design we can make for you too. your logo ,your color.(300PCS)
Any more questions please feel free to contact Sara.
skype:UAVmotor email: sales.hawksky@gmail.com whatapp/mobile;+86-13647439909
Posted by Gimbal Guy | Today @ 02:26 AM | 134 Views
Please checkout the latest Spec Review... watch, subscribe, and support...
Thanks from Gimbal Guy
Gotta have macro shots on the micro quad 😎🤣😁😎

#lizard #microfun #fpv #drone #eachine #gimbalguy
Posted by K3VDOG77 | Today @ 12:59 AM | 171 Views
Hey guys I'm new to the multirotor world. I have 2 naze32 boards. One, which is a 6d, took the firmware no problem. The other ,10dof, will not connect. Ive shorted the bootloader pads, updated drivers, but still getting failed to open serial port. Is it possible that the problem lies in the board? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Posted by TINGW | Yesterday @ 10:12 PM | 253 Views
Welcome to the hobby shop: Bonroy
The newest DYS 32 bit esc Aria 35A is on sale : http://www.bonroytech.com/views.asp?hw_id=419
The most popular products F4 pro flight controller: http://www.bonroytech.com/views.asp?hw_id=416
The most popular products 4 in 1 esc F20A/F30A : http://www.bonroytech.com/sort.asp?sort_id=6
You can find many FPV products what you need in this shop
Posted by Jonnybgood3 | Yesterday @ 09:57 PM | 256 Views
Built this flying wing over the past two days it didn't cost much, but it doesn't fly well I am thinking it is tail heavy the power is equivalent to an e flight power 15, flight one hand launches great plenty of power but it deals like the control throws are double what's nesicary, resolution program in 70% Alston rates and 50% elivator, 2nd flight I am flying along on my second pass and it seems like it is horribly unstable, still too much control i tone them down 10% each try again, 3rd flight I don't have enough elevator I bring it in and clip a winglet on a bush, solution must be tail heavy? I have rocks I add 3 to the compartment and bring the rates back up 10%, flight 4 the rates are good I am not running out of elevator but the over controlling rendancy is back, solution tape a bunch of rocks to the nose if it is tail heavy this should work all of my stuff is at home the cg moved forward 1/2-3/4 of an inch in seems stable then it rolls i throttle back and it pulls a loop, broke the prop on the last rough landing,

What could the problem be?
I programmed in expo
I would really like to get this flying if at all possible it is built according to Divinity 2 plans here on rcg
Could the size motor I have be causing this? It is overpowered
I thought it could be controll rod flex but they are fairly stiff
The stall type tendencies at higher speeds are what worries me the slow speed handling is ok
Posted by UpNup | Yesterday @ 07:14 PM | 308 Views
The Ford Flivver calls for three large music wires soldered together. I found on the FB store, a $10 huge, hot soldering iron that heats to 800 watts.

To get wire, I had to strip some small gauge solid copper wire. I bought flux and lead-free silver solder. To get stability, I held down the largest wire (1/8") with a clamp. The other two music wires (3/32") were Gorilla-taped into place. (You go with what ya got.) When rigid, I wrapped the three wires with close-wound copper wire and clipped spare threads top and bottom, mashing the loose ends into the wrap.

I tried this two weeks ago and didn't clean the joint after a failed low-temp 60 watt iron attempt and got oxidation (aka rust) on the wires. I sanded off the wire down to a sheen and started from scratch.

The chisel tip was screaming hot in 10 minutes. I placed it under the copper wire cluster. The solder melted thru from the top. I was glad to have a tim pan to catch the splashing solder.

To avoid rusting, I spray painted Rust-oleum black the wire nearest the axle. The parts going up near the wing were painted Testors steel.

Note that through all of this I've had to dodge and consider those wooden faux rubber stacked doughnuts. I imagined them bursting into flame. However, just by sliding them up and down, they stayed unscathed.

The final product is an extremely wide and strong landing gear to be mounted below the 50" wingspan.
Posted by askman | Yesterday @ 06:58 PM | 327 Views
After living in Oregon for larger part of my life, we have moved to sunny and much warmer arizona and finally settling in. it has been crazy move, but thing went quite smooth since selling my old house and making the large change in my life. I do want to apologize to those in Oregon where I just didn't have time for proper farewell, but I do hate goodbyes and I hope my abrupt departure didn't cause too much problems. Still We are settling in nicely and loving the warm weather. I think we made the right move and are happy at our new place.

As part of my move, I finally picked up a Spark recently and been doing some light flight testing. What I am most impressed about, is its capability to produce very good 12mp still images. While video is pretty impressive considering its size, i do find it bit soft due to its use of center part of sensor not to mention it is only 30fps. While I don't mind having 1080only, I do wish I had 60fps, but combined with tripod mode, you can get decent video even doing pan.

One of the test that I like to run, is creating a simple pano manually. I just run timed shutter and do a slow pan. I stitch this using microsoft ICE software and I am quite happy with how it came out. not bad for single pass 15 image stitch pano. I have pretty nice backyard now . Overall, I am pretty impressed with the unit and would make good backup and pocket drone.

here is link to the full image as well

Posted by PittSpecial | Yesterday @ 06:12 PM | 414 Views
Greetings good People!

This was a General Fitness Ride around Kennedy Space Center's Launch Pad-A and Pad-B, what a ride!

I have not taken my Trek 2100 (2007 vintage) for a long time and most especially this sort of wide open distance!

For a over-weight fat guy and 57 years old, I did very well and I have not lost any strength in my legs as I always had powerful legs.

We started at the South-West Parking lot of the Vertical Assembly Building (VAB) and we rode along Saturn Causeway to Launch Pad-A which is exactly 3.5 miles. We continued and past the KSC LC-39 Observatory Gantry (Tourist Out Post) and then, turned North on Cape Road after passing Launch Pad-A where SPACE-X continues to press-on with their work at this Launch Pad.

Along Cape Road we witness some of the most beautiful sky with strong Thunderstorm approaching from the South and so, we increased our pace to Launch Pad-B which is a few more miles North. After passing Launch Pad-B, we continued back South passing Gator Hole and Broadaxe Creek and turned back (returned) to the Saturn Causeway for the long stretch back to the Launch Control Center and thereby our vehicles parked in front of the Vertical Assembly Building (VAB).

I was amazed that the conditions were perfect for this General Fitness ride to start our new Cycling Club.

A BIG thank you goes to Charles and most especially to Jessica who was a trouper on her hybrid mountain bike.

A few pictures!

Posted by GTOGreg | Yesterday @ 05:50 PM | 353 Views
I had played with a few "Air Hog" Hellies over the years, but they were a hassle to fly, and they did not last for more than a week or so before they broke, or I just lost interest. It wasn't until Christmas of 2016 that I really started to take a serious interest in this hobby, when my wife ordered me a "toy" drone off of QVC. The drone was a "Sky Rider", which was a cheap "Ready to Fly" (RTF) camera drone that did not even offer "First Person View" (FPV). It has a flimsy plastic frame, and a tiny camera for video and still shots,. It came with a set of spare props, which was sort of a waste because the brushed motors failed before I could get to use them. It was less than $ 50.00, and lasted about a month, but it was just enough fun to get the ball rolling.

My brother started flying drones a couple months earlier, and just when the Sky Rider flew its last flight, he gave me his old Blade Nano QX2, which was a great quad, but I did not have FPV goggles, so I could only fly "Line of Sight" (LOS). Wanting more, I bought a second hand Blade Nano QX FPV kit for $ 150.00, which came with a decent quad, and set of "Fat Shark' FPV goggles. The QX was fun to fly, but it seemed to break alot. First, the QX needed props, then it needed motors, or a new antenna, or new camera, or new flight controller, or new frame, etc. It seemed like I was spending as much time working on it as I did flying it.

I...Continue Reading
Posted by Flying Saucer RC | Yesterday @ 05:25 PM | 377 Views
I have recently purchased a new charger for all my battery needs. My choice and research has lead me to buying the rc6-vsr from Overlander as they have a good reputation in the battery world.
It cost me around 42 from Leeds model shop, which is a pretty good deal for what you get.

So, what do you get?
Well you get a nice charger that can supply a nifty 80W of power and 7A current to a battery.

It'll do all the standards: LIPO, LIFE, LIION, NIMH, NICAD and PB. The lithium's are 1-6s and the NIMH/NICAD will do 1-5s then the On has 1-10s.

There is a relatively simple UI with four buttons labeled for ease of navigation, this means charging is incredibly simple (although the included manual doesn't really help, search "how to use Overlander rc6-vsr" and a download manual will be on the links).

Finally (one of the great strong points) the charger has an input of either 100-240V AC or 11-18V DC and it comes with an AC power cord so that's simple.

Oh yeah, and you can buy a temp sensor and it'll failsafe if the battery gets too hot (also may and time fail-safes set).

I'm not sure how to adjust all the settings like fail-safes yet but so far it has been a really great and friendly charger that I would recommend to anyone as I have had no issues.
Posted by Peter Phillipps | Yesterday @ 04:09 PM | 414 Views
I am a absolute self confessed Warbird nut, this started in 1967 when as a young
lad my late father took me to the premier of the all time classic British film the
Battle of Britain. I have had a go at most things RC, tanks, cars, helis and drones.

I do have other interests outside RC stuff, photography, surfing and kite boarding
bicycles, motorcycles and any old machinery. Following some Warbirds I have
tracked down in Australia.

The only airworthy Hurricane in the southern Hemisphere in the care of the Pay
organisation at a small town Scone north west of Sydney, Australia.

Mk IX Spitfire under restoration at Pays
...Continue Reading
Posted by flyinghedgehogs | Yesterday @ 03:44 PM | 426 Views
Recently I have been helping my brother fix his ELF after an unexpected tail detachment on launch. As we were rebuilding it, we observed that the v-mount that holds and hinges the elevator was gone. Looking at Kennedy Composites, we observed that not only the cost of shipping was greater than the cost of the part, but the part would arrive one day after our deadline to get the ELF flying. Considering our options, we realized that we had all the materials and know-how to make our own v-mount. We dug up several scraps of balsa , a broken ELF boom, and retrieved our stock of packing tape, thin CA, Textreme unidirectional carbon, and Carboweave CW 20. Measuring the inside dimension of the v-mount off of the v-mount affixed to my ELF, we determined the angle of the balsa scraps relative to the boom. We then filled the cracks and low spots in the mold with baking soda and thin CA, as seen in the first picture. We then put a piece of packing tape over the mold, making a "mold releasing" surface. The lay up scheme went as follows. 1) Tack down one end of a small strip of Textreme to one ear of the mold with Medium CA and let it set up. 2) Tack the other end to the other ear and let it set up. 3) Dribble thin CA over the whole part. 4) Repeat with alternating lavers of CW 20 and textreme. We used 5 of each. Once all the CA has completely cured, we removed the part from the mold, trimmed it and drilled holes. Then we sealed the edges using thin CA.

We also did strength analysis on a piece of scrap by drilling the hole closer to the edge of the material than we had did on the final part, and could not strip out the hole with both our best efforts.

Feel free to comment below..
Posted by craytech | Yesterday @ 12:40 PM | 530 Views
BoldClash 1s Brushless Parts list (4 min 55 sec)

Hello Everyone Welcome back.

I wanted to put together a video to showcase the parts needed to build a 1s micro brushless quadcopter. A huge thank you to Boldclash for helping me with this build. Their customer service is great and they pointed me in the right direction and helped me source the parts needed for this build.

Parts list.
BoldBlash Fish01 Tower, BLHeli 4amp 4 in 1 ESC DShot 600, Frsky receiver
BoldClash F01 AIO 5.8ghz AIO camera
BoldClash BWhoop B05 frame kit
Boldclash M0703 20,000kv brushless motors

Thank you for watching.

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Fly Safe & Fly Often

Intro music by Ryan Little
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Posted by OrtisFlow | Yesterday @ 11:24 AM | 580 Views
Today I screwed up my tiny wallet for a new RC system...

A Taranis QX7 and some XM+ receivers from banggood...

I've also bought a new kwad(lizard95) for the quietness of my neighborhood...

3 different sets of motors for my 5" kwads from there sunnysky official store

Pictures soon, maybe...
Posted by Flakpak | Yesterday @ 08:28 AM | 902 Views
I need to fit a new insert into the top of a half-inch diameter Centurion undercarriage leg, but cannot extract the old one. I have removed the roll pin and the central peg, but the outer part is stuck in the top of the tubular leg. I am thinking of applying heat but don't want to damage the piston seal; am also mindful of the spring held in compression by the insert. I'd be grateful for any advice from others whose landings are less than perfect and who have successfully carried out this repair.
Posted by Triptykon | Yesterday @ 06:32 AM | 987 Views
I was exposed to the hobby at a very young age by my dad. In the first picture with the Mirage Jet and the Andrews Trainermaster I was about 4 years old.

In the second picture with my dads Aeromaster Bi-plane. I was about 7 years old.