Posted by Ivy long | Aug 06, 2019 @ 03:06 AM | 942 Views
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Posted by Deserteagle | Aug 05, 2019 @ 10:53 PM | 2,351 Views
Posted by UnknownForces RC | Aug 05, 2019 @ 10:21 PM | 977 Views
GX1 electric buggy 4wd version (0 min 26 sec)

Receiver box harness adapter,it has five interfaces. Waterproof in one step,No need to open the receiver box frequently,Easy to connect to all kinds of electronic devices.
Posted by Ling08 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 10:02 PM | 992 Views
Get a new product.

16*16mm esc use for mini rc drone.

It's powerful
Posted by greynation | Aug 05, 2019 @ 08:21 PM | 1,136 Views
I have tried designing an RC airplane before and my designs usually were drawn to scale on a piece of paper and then measured and cut out of foamboard. I got lucky a couple of times and the thing actually flew pretty well. But the process was tedious and I couldn't really share my plans with anyone without lengthy explanations of the details I kept in my mind. It was discouraging. So I decided I wanted to do some CAD style drawings like the guys at Flite Test.

When I saw the Nano Drak from RitewingRC I knew it was time to give it a shot. From the pictures I found it looked pretty small and basically like a plank flying wing. That's when I put 2 and 2 together and I knew exactly how I was going to do it. The FT Goblin!

I downloaded a copy of the full page plans and started wondering how I was going to make the necessary edits to get the shapes I wanted. I needed some software. I had heard of people using Inkscape to draw plans before so I downloaded a free copy and when it was installed I started playing around with it. Pretty soon I had figured out how to import PDFs, make new layers, measure correct distances, and all those good things that you have to know to use the software. I dove in head first.

Here is how I did it:

Download the plans from FT.
Download and install Inkscape.
Open the PDF of the plans in Inkscape.
Create a new layer over the one the plans are on.
Set the transparency of the layer to 50%
Use the panel on the left to select the “Draw...Continue Reading
Posted by old4570 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 07:37 PM | 1,768 Views

I have taken the FMS 800mm V-tail apart for some pictures .

A) There are a lot of similarities to the Ezio 800 , HK may have taken liberties . Especially as the prop is exactly the same .
B) Servo leads are SHORT !
D) I think this model is intended as 2s around 350/450mAh
E) 2 servos take care of everything
F) V tail control rods were - WAY - Way - way out ( pre formed ) .. Not sure who was on the job that day - but I had to re do it , and it is tricky .
G) V tail is in 2 parts and needs gluing in place
H) Wing is held in place with a single screw . ( Philips head ) A hex screw would be better .
I) That prop !!!!! = Same as on the EZIO 800 , which was useless !

First thing I will do is check how much thrust the motor prop combo produces ( check current as well )
If thats ok , I will move onto soldering up a 4ch FS2A Rx .. and then assembling the FMS 800 V-tail trying for a decent CG ..
I have a small assortment of batteries to try ..


Current draw on a 2s = 4.7/4.8A to a peak of almost 5A
Thrust seems to be ok , looks like this motor might turn higher RPM on 2s
CG = No way ..
CG is sweet less Rx and battery ..
Will need weight in the tail or it will be nose heavy .
Just about to solder up a Rx now .


Rx is soldered and in place
Everything has been trimmed ready for CG Games ..

Seriously , the CG is perfect without a battery ...
Flying weight ATM with a Nonotech 370mAh 2s is 154 grams , but the CG is 25mm from the L/E
Power to weight . might be around 80%
There will be required weight in the tail for CG , which should probably be around 40 to 50mm from the L/E
Hmmm , what does the FMS manual say ? ( FMS say's 35mm from the L/E )

Posted by Jameshall842003 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 06:54 PM | 1,116 Views
Okay so here it is the past couple drones I have built I decided to use metal stand-off screws that run through my pdb and flight controller. I've never used PDB's before so this is completely new to me and I've never used full length standoff screws of stainless steel or metal. I noticed after I fly my drone in land or after a couple minutes of it being plugged in my screws are very hot and will burn an imprint to my hand. Now the first time this happened to me I figured out it was my VTX because my VTX heat shrink started to smolder so I changed my VTX and it would only happen after a couple of minutes. On one of my builds I use nylon standoffs and I'm other build I'm using a full metal bolt that runs through for my standoffs and both of them are getting hot. I have absolutely no idea why I figure something is grounding out and I cannot figure it out please help me
Posted by basslord1124 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 02:41 PM | 2,031 Views
Finally ventured out to give the profile plane a try. It flew for a few seconds but came down shortly. The results don't surprise me as this was a design I sort of modified to fit foamboard. I believe the problem was getting the CG/balance right. It crumpled the nose up, so I'll have to recut the fuselage. Luckily that's only just a single sheet of foamboard. Here's video of the event:

Profile Plane maiden and crash.... (3 min 42 sec)

Posted by decreale | Aug 05, 2019 @ 02:25 PM | 1,849 Views
Purchased this plane from AirBorne Models— World Models.Made a big mistake and it’s on me. This plane is setup for gas only not electric. I had to convert this to electric, don’t fly gas planes. I somehow figured out how to create the battery tray, modify the canopy and most important create vents to allow the air flow . I would not suggest doing this too much trouble. I do believe I have the correct center of gravity, had to add weight to nose of the plane. This plane will be flying this week, hope everything goes well. I may need to change the engine from a 5055-650 to a 5065-650. I’m just at my limit with that engine and weight. One other item the monocote on this plane is horrible constantly ironing it.
9/8/2019 Finally finished the modifications on the plane converted it to electric. Changed the engine to Leopard 5065- 650kv running 5-6s. Took the plane out today and to my surprise it flew perfect. The CG was spot on, I did not have to trim the plane.

I will say this again the monocote on this plane is HORRIBLE its coming off everywhere except the elevator and rudder. It looks like I will eventually have to redo the entire plane in new monocote. I did get my iron out but the glue is all dried up and it will not stick.
Really sad nice plane flies great monocote SUCKS. I would not suggest this plane because of the monocote issue. I have 10 planes and store them in the same place no problems with those planes.
Posted by Dasfischeman | Aug 05, 2019 @ 12:39 PM | 1,686 Views
I have a big birdy kit that was given to me.
I have the plans
But need the instruction manual
Any help?
[email protected]
Posted by lawrence4 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 07:28 AM | 2,120 Views
With a little luck. (0 min 53 sec)

Posted by RADIOLINKRC | Aug 05, 2019 @ 05:49 AM | 1,969 Views
If you have the RadioLInk old products (RC3S/RC4G/RC4GS produced before 2018/RC6GS two-way switch version/T4EU/T4EU-6/T6EHP-E/T6EHP-S/T7F/T8FB without USB port, you are very welcome to join this #OLDTONEW.
That is, you can get a new replacement in a SUPER LOW price WITHOUT shipping the old ones back to us.
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Period: Till August 31

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Posted by lawrence4 | Aug 05, 2019 @ 12:54 AM | 2,250 Views
TITOLETTA spin Landing.