Jay B. Scott's blog View Details
Archive for November, 2016
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 17, 2016 @ 10:47 PM | 19,840 Views
(To the sound of fanfare) Here it is! All the wood is out of the box and on the plane now. At present, I'm at the same place that Zeke was when he started the Bamboo Bomber thread on the Scale kit/scratch build forum. I started with my build on page 20 of that thread last July.

Next is doing a rough balance, to see the fate of that 9 gram servo in the tail.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 15, 2016 @ 04:52 PM | 19,444 Views
"Next is to build the starboard wing and nacelle. I'm slow, so give me a couple weeks."--Entry 13, Wednesday, November 2nd. Not bad on the time at all!

Below is a few pix I owe you guys. Thank you, Jason Cole, for telling me how to put text in my pictures. You're the one who also taught me how to hand launch my small models with your Alfa warbird videos at what was then (the real) Hobby Lobby.

The 3rd pic is of the wood glue I use. I get mine two blocks away at the downtown Ace hardware store. But I've also seen it sold by Hobby Town USA in Redmond, which is my closest LHS. Depending on the application, sometimes the best glue is not the most high-tech stuff. For me, the downside of waiting 24 hours to cure is more than compensating for how soothing it is on my nerves when I need time to position my piece.

Next entry will be my milestone of having all the wood from the kit on my plane.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 10, 2016 @ 08:40 PM | 20,296 Views
I took a needed break from building my Bamboo Bomber, and went to our club's weekly Float Fly. I'll tell you all the story in these 11 pictures.

1: Lake Sawyer Hawks' panoramic Float Fly Site, looking east across a small bay of Lake Washington, to the tip of Seward Park peninsula.

2: Dick Weaver, Lake Sawyer Hawks Float Fly Site Coordinator, and his masterfully scale Grumman Albatross. Dick made major modifications to the Ivan Pettigrew plans he started out with.

3: Steve Black, Lake Sawyer Hawks Webmaster, likes to walk on the edge.

4: Steve Ashmore getting ready to zoom-zoom.

5: Ted, third member of Tenacious D.

6: Ruel Vicente with one of his signature florescent paint jobs.

7: Bruce and his Flying W, a fully 3-D water plane. The kit has been produced by Dick Weaver for many years.

8: Steve B., Dick, Ted, and Ruel have an epiphany.

9: Incoming!

10: Is The Apprentice a tip o' th' hat to our new President-elect?

11: " . . . and if I could, you know that I would fly away with you....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 07, 2016 @ 06:48 PM | 19,392 Views
Here's an evolution of thought from Part 2. Just extend the logic of my solution, and you'll find that you don't even need the inner pushrod tube to go through the stab. Just screw your 2-56 metal pushrod into the inner tube, back off the tube about an inch in front of F10, and simply run the 2-56 metal pushrod through the stab. Now the hole is really small! Easy, no?
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 07, 2016 @ 05:33 PM | 19,506 Views
"The real disaster happens when you try to drill a tunnel that size through the 3/8" thick [actually, 5/16" thick] horizontal stab, right where all of its strength used to be."

After I posted that "news flash," I realized that I made a remarkably un-smart building decision with my rudder pushrod. The outer sleeve does not need to go through the horizontal stab (what I did--duh!). It gets cut off flush with the back side of fuse former F10. Now the hole drilled through the stab is smaller and much more manageable--that is, for you guys who have yet to do it.

As for me, I had to repair that gaping tunnel that ate up all the strength in that area of the stab. I home-rolled a paper tube, and coated it with thin CA to waterproof it. The 5/32" dia. plastic tube (or 4 mm music wire section, etc.) that I used to roll the paper tube on was then coated with petroleum jelly, and put back through the paper tube to keep the glue out. I then blobbed wood glue (aliphatic resin) in the gaping tunnel and on the paper tube, and slid it into the tunnel, wiping the excess glue off. After 24 hours of curing, I trimmed it all up for a bind-free operation. Now I feel 100% confident of its strength.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 03, 2016 @ 09:55 PM | 19,356 Views
Whee! I get to play pretend here.
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 03, 2016 @ 03:36 PM | 5,776 Views
Due to an informative tip-off from someone who probably wishes to remain anonymous because of my enigmatic reputation , I've discovered (upon purchasing a set yesterday) that the Dubro Lazer Rod has an O.D. 1/32" larger than the laser-cut pushrod holes in the Bobcat kit. The real disaster happens when you drill a tunnel that size through the 3/8" thick horizontal stab, right where all of its strength used to be.

On the Bamboo Bomber thread, on page 24, post 348, I show the Dubro Lazer Rods and the Sullivan Golden Rods as the recommended pushrods for this plane. Please forgive me for that error. Only the Sullivan product should be used (the one I used, having no experience with the Dubro product). So, hopefully, this message comes "better late than never."
Posted by Jay B. Scott | Nov 01, 2016 @ 10:48 PM | 5,756 Views
Here's a couple pix that I owe you guys. I initially built the bottom of my wing center section wrong by having the skin grain run wingtip to wingtip. It bowed tremendously upon drying, giving it a roller-coaster look from the profile view. But instead of going through the pain of taking off the whole skin, I cut out sections around the glued areas, glued in 1/16th" square balsa stringer braces, and over that glued the new skin running fore and aft.

By the way, the skin grain on top does run wingtip to wingtip.

Don't know yet exactly what I'm going to put in my electronics tray, but it's nice to have the extra room to play!

Next is to build the starboard wing and nacelle. I'm slow, so give me a couple weeks. It may go surprisingly faster since I don't have to stop and take pictures.