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Posted by PeterVRC | Apr 23, 2013 @ 10:40 PM | 9,589 Views
This is a really great plane! Typical Dynam "Make it cheap, but don't cut any corners" adequacy. But also as per all Dynams, needs a bit of tender loving care to bring it up to its full potential! You can fly them as they come... but can create something much better from the base they gave you!
It is a very typical Dynam kit.... so if you have seen the Meteor, Spitfire, Mustang, Me-109 etc, you will have the basic idea of how it is all done.

Twin 70mm Dynam EDF's (as per used in all their jets) running on 4S.
Firstly.... 5 blade, yuk! Secondly..... high current 4S, yuk!
So out with the fans, in with CS10's on 5S. L2855-2300kv based, which give close to the same as stock power, but tons better sound!
It would be a bit better to go to 6S even, and I might do that in the near future - but the L2855-2300kv CS10 combos are VERY CHEAP to use in jets, and adequate power for this. Motor, fan, ESC = $73 each set.

The construction/design is the typical well thought out manner of Dynam.
The paint is the usual 'very basic' of Dynam..... so that is an area that can use some improving!

There is a lot of battery space, so I headed to dual 4000mAH batteries!! To get longer flights, with a very easy time for the batteries too!
Later on I added a sound system to give it a realistic jet/turbine sound, and that was a very good result!
Posted by PeterVRC | Apr 15, 2013 @ 09:59 AM | 8,145 Views
I actually bought and started assembling this model a LONG time ago....
November 2011 ! And it is still not completed.....

It looks nice, from a bit of a distance, but it is an 'old generation' model, in EPS and enamel paint, and it just didn't compare to the more recent generation of aircraft I had. So I lost interest.
But over the last weeks I have resumed construction, with the aim to complete it and fly it finally!

I had done some things back in late 2011, but some of those 'ideas' were pretty lack lustre to newer ideas on better way to do things now! So a few mods had to be 'reversed' or changed.

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Posted by PeterVRC | Apr 14, 2013 @ 05:33 AM | 13,798 Views
A bit out of character for my usual aircraft type that I like - mainly military jets, or warbirds - I had seen a few Cubs around and always liked their docile flight behaviour, so it was an aircraft up near the top of my list to get one version of.

I had three main choices, when I finally decided to get one.
A 1000mm one ($70), this 1400mm one ($126), and a balsa 1800mm one ($130 ARF). I couldn't bring myself to pay $70 for a "small" one, when $50 more gave a much bigger and more detailed version. Whether the Starmax or the Balsa (unknown version) one - but the ARF would need about another $50 spent on it, which is fair enough to have that total cost for its larger size, but it is a bit big for what I want. Thus the PNF Starmax won out.

I had also read up a lot about it, and it had tons of positive stuff commented about it, and no negatives. So add in that I think Starmax make great stuff generally, that also made it the clear winner.

Having it now... even at checking over the parts from the box it was looking a "100/100" plane!! Assembled, then flown.... it is still "100/100". Excellent value for its cost.... everything well designed and implemented! You could just build it and fly it as it comes and it would be fantastic still.
But there are always little things you can do to improve aircraft......

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Posted by PeterVRC | Mar 18, 2013 @ 04:44 PM | 8,272 Views
After writing off my Mini Mig-15 many weeks ago, I was missing my 'cold war era fighter' so I decided to get another one. At $69 it is a great little plane, but for $74 I could get its slightly bigger brother that is 64mm..... so I grabbed one of those instead.

Hmmmm, not sure about that idea now.....

The Mig's never have much equipment room, seeing they have their 'barrel fuselage of ducting' design, so all stuff needs to stay up above that - and there is not much room above that! The Mini Mig squeezed in everything just perfectly right! This 800mm Mig is also probably 'just right' for a 3S setup, of low capacity battery though - but not suited to doing almost anything else, unless you set off on a major project!

It is about a 2006 era design.... the early days of electric EDF foamies, where things were lack lustre and not as well designed or made as today. It is still quite a good plane, though a bit rough around the edges - mouldings, foam type, tailplane and pushrod flimsiness (0.5mm wire pushrods!).
After a first looking over it seemed unlikely to be much use trying to make it anything other than a 64mm 3S based jet, hand-launched.
After some more thinking about it, I might be able to get it to use 4S and a 70mm CS10/12.... for decent flight speed, and great sound then! So that will be the aim....

Another option is a 4S based 64mm alloy 10 blade, which Cyclone Power and Lander make (same units). But that is fairly costly versus a CS10/12 and L2855-2800kv outrunner combo - which run well and keeps costs way down!

Next I will look over the Mig-15 with pics.....

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Posted by PeterVRC | Mar 12, 2013 @ 04:40 PM | 7,987 Views
This large P-51 has been awaiting completion for quite a while now! For the moment I can't say how this particular one will fly, but all P-51's fly fantastically so this should be totally fine too.
Looking over the plane and its parts and design ideas, it all looks very well done. As always, some things can be done better, but the base of it all has everything important covered - no major flaws that will need a lot of effort. Though some areas I do make a lot of effort for changes that I want.

At US$208 PNF in Australia, that is a very cheap and large P-51 ! And great value for a plane that could be flown almost just as it comes anyway.
Starmax are not quite up there with FMS in finer details, but at a fair bit under half the price of the FMS 1700mm it is a very cost effective way to get a large P-51 ! If you really wanted all the finer details that the FMS come with, you would be better off just paying more for that instead of a LOT of TIME yourself, and also likely to be costing towards the same total as the FMS in the end.
(Though the FMS still needs things fixed here and there - as per all foamies do really).

It was a LONG time coming, to complete(!!!) but it finally is 99% done and ready to fly!!

I gave it a rating of 9.5/10 because it is a great base to work from, but COULD be flown just as it comes too! The landing gear is a weakness, but all else is fine/good. This is quite a good bargain large P-51 really!!

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Posted by PeterVRC | Mar 09, 2013 @ 10:10 PM | 9,388 Views
First of all, the Turnigy 9X is already a very low priced but high capability computer radio/TX. For about $60.
The RF system that comes with is it very medicore, so you don't want to be using that at all really. The best choice is to replace it with FRsky modules, which are proven to be extremely high quality and reliability, also at very good prices. Frequency hopping (better than DSMX), and a very low voltage RX that will as good as never 'brownout' ever, it gives you an RF system WITH telemetry capability, for $50 approx. including one 8ch RX.
So far $110 for the main parts of a very reliable and great quality TX/RX system!

The shortfall of the T9X is its PROGRAMMING. The firmware it comes with. It can do a fair bit of stuff, but nowhere near as much as the hardware is capable of!! AND, you need to be a rocket scientist to work out the 'Chinglish" based, extremely bad counter-intuitive programming layout!
BUT luckily some ingenious guys, and a community effort, saw the potential of the T9X hardware and made completely NEW firmware for it!
Firmware that unleashes everything you could possibly want a TX to do... as much as any priced high end one can do.... and MORE.... for free too! (Donations welcome!)
Open9X is the main group, and then there are sub-sets of variation of that Open Source coding to tailor the T9X in various ways.
I think the best of these is ER9X. So I highly recommend you use that as the firmware for your T9X!!

To be able to flash program a T9X...Continue Reading
Posted by PeterVRC | Jan 01, 2013 @ 12:54 AM | 10,198 Views
I am not sure why/when I ever decided I really liked the red/white T-45 look! I think it was due to seeing so many foam model versions around! But they are a nice looking jet... even if it is a bit of a quirky looking thing really.

Many people had bought, and posted, about this 64mm T-45... how great it flew etc. There is also a 70mm version around that is just a little bit larger, but it seemed there was more mentioned about this 64mm one so I got that....
MISTAKE!!!!!

Not that I have seen the 70mm version - which is bound to be made by some other manufacturer - but this 64mm is one of the worst 'budget, flimsy' foam planes I have seen! Worse than my 64mm Starmax F-18, which is ok really. And worse than my 64mm EDO F-15, which is also an ok plane really.
Even though this T-45 is EPO it seems the molds were made in the early days of foam aircraft, so none of the more modern 'better design and strength' features are in it.
I almost didn't want to even build it!! So it sat aside for many weeks. Luckily it was "only" $57 for the kit version, but I think it is 'worth' about $30 really.

The wing is flimsy and has no spar.
The tailplanes a flat THIN foam with plastic wrap that hardly helps them be anything but the same thin flimsy foam things they are! The fin is the same.
The whole fuselage/build is like they tried to use the least foam possible... at the expense of any strength!
So to make it a truly 'decent' foam aircraft it would need a lot of work. Though a...Continue Reading
Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 18, 2012 @ 05:01 AM | 10,597 Views
Seeing I was ordering some stuff from HobbyKing, I decided to also grab the "Fighter R/C jet white EPO (KIT)", seeing was only $29 ! Though the shipping addition is almost as much as the plane itself! Offset by other items it worked out to about AU$45 cost.
I had read lots of things here and there about this plane, some places I was not sure if it was this one, or the "Phase 3", which might all be the same anyway - I don't know. But it looked the same....

I had recently bought the 64mm T-45 Hawk kit, for about AU$57, and it is rubbish!! So when I got this kit it was chalk and cheese! This thing is well designed, everything well thought out and adequate! So it was a great base to work from.

I pondered over it and made a list of things to do, and how to do them.... then I was off and at it!

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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 08, 2012 @ 07:33 PM | 15,932 Views
This blog will cover mods and setup that I have done to the Freewing Su-35.
It is a very nice plane just as it comes, though as with all PNF's there are some shortfalls. But not many in this case. It probably could be flown just as it comes, with a pretty high chance of success/reliability... though it is really safer/smarter to always go over PNF's to make sure it is really airworthy/safe/ reliable, or else there will be a big bang at some stage!! And confetti foam everywhere.....

Because this plane was actually done many months ago, the order of mods etc could be amiss. For most of them that is not important anyway. And maybe I will forget some that I did.... but even if so, I will try to add them later when I do remember!

So for a start, if you like Sukhoi's or Migs, then this is a great option!! I think it looks awesome (like a Mig-29 does too) and Freewing has used some of the latest innovations of making modelling easier for users.
I think it is a 10/10 plane!! But none ever some truly perfect, and thus why there are always things to do that can improve them, and make them more reliable and last longer!

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My list of 'good to do' mods: Start with the ARF !!!
1) Plywood sub-frame - full length from nose gear bay to rear end
2) Heavier Alloy main gear struts - alloy hub wheels (stock can split hubs)
3) Lander alloy retracts - slower operation and 'all metal'
4) Wemo EVO, DrMad 2200kv, on 7S with 60/70Amp HK SS Series ESC (otherwise 100A HV to enable 8S 4000Watts)
5) All servos digital MG (HK15178B and HK17148B)
6) Larger battery hatch - side wings and lengthwise
7) Elevator fuselage mount plates/bolts for strength
8) Vertical Fin carbon fiber rods and fuselage mounting system for strength

Options:
Nose gear fuselage shock absorber.
Leading Edge Flaps (more academic than a necessity).
Backbone AirBrake - this actual Su model did not really have that.

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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 03, 2012 @ 03:52 AM | 10,163 Views
If you have ever used Pull-Pull wire steering on a model, you will have encountered its major flaw. SLOP. No matter how well you set that up initially, the wires will not remain taught for too long! Any slight landing gear leg bend (or retract pin) means there will then be slop.
A second issue is that there is nothing to keep the leg in the straight position once the leg begins to retract and the wires go slack. So the wheel can turn off to a side and then bind/hit the wheel bay side etc.. Some people have added 'spring' ideas to assist this issue, but that has small issues too, plus is quite hard to set up well.

Meanwhile Pushrod steering gives a 100% solid, permanent, solution. So there is no contest...... "100% reliable", versus "Messy and fraught with issues". Pushrod versus Pull-Pull.

One main problem I see around is that very few people seem to be able to work out WHAT is required in a Pushrod system. and how to implement and set it up correctly, so as to arrive at that 100% working system!
So this Blog entry is to outline what I do for mine.....

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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 07:57 AM | 6,911 Views
Just a first "pretty poor", but still useful, video of my Durafly DH-100 Vampire.
I will replace it with better videos when I get one! (soon hopefully).

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Vampire01 (2 min 16 sec)

Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 07:55 AM | 22,171 Views
Durafly (all but surely made by FMS) have a whole range of great aircraft. The Vampire DH-100 is not only one of the nicest - they are all very nice - but a great flying, and awesome sounding EDF jet!! As close as you can get to having a real jet sound from an EDF jet!! Well, more so if you use a CS10 or CS12 fan unit in it!!

I have used my favourite "Mid Power, LOW cost" EDF setup in this plane:
The CS10 with Turnigy L2855-2300kv motor, running from 5S 3000mAH 20C batteries (mostly). The whole motor, fan and one battery cost is just $50 !!
And it flies, and sounds AWESOME.... I don't think I would recommended any other EDF jet as highly! Quite cheap, and just a full modellers delight in result!
I don't mean ONLY get one of these... just make sure you HAVE one of these!! LOL

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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 07:50 AM | 7,263 Views
A few videos of the Dynam 1200mm Spitfire, fitted with the MrRCsound Pro_A sound system.
Pretty lousy flight video! But I will change that to a better one eventually.
I guess the installation video is pretty poor and dark too!

My Spitfire has had a hard life!! Two big crashes in its early days - one from an unknown spiral/spin to the ground from the top of a lowish loop, and one from a failed battery and loss of power which was at a very inopportune time! Both cases snapped a wing, and more.
But after its repairs it still looks quite good all in all, and flies totally fine still!! A very nice scale plane to see and HEAR flying around!!

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Spitfire with MrRCSound demo (2 min 43 sec)


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Spitfire01 (1 min 28 sec)
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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 06:16 AM | 9,128 Views
The Starmax 90mm F-16 PNF is a beautiful model!! More so if you like F-16's!!
I think they just have this almost classic look to them - a bit of this or that in them, but also a unique end result.

The paint finish of the kit is fantastic - whether in the all-grey camo version, or the blue-grey camo version. I chose the blue-grey, but I like either really!

It comes with AIR retracts, and with so many electric retract options these days, that is a far nicer system to have. Slower operation - not a "SNAP" and they are in, or out!
But as it turned out, setting up a good retract/oleo system was a pretty big task!! (more later of course).

I did a number of "improvements" to the base design - as I always do. To ensure proper operation, flying, and reliability of the plane. I try to cover ALL possibilities BEFORE they are ever going to happen! So I am yet to have a "Oh dear, this thing broke (or whatever) and it crashed.....". LOL

I also had about ZERO faith in the Starmax EDF unit, so even before I bought it I had intentions of going to a CS12 90mm fan unit. Though along the way some issues with those units have turned up (they can EXPLODE! LOL) so I am yet to finalise exactly what will be in the first test flight version! It will be a CS12, but I had a Turnigy 3025-1500kv motor installed in a 'early' CS12 unit, which may, or may not, be safe to use!
I also have a 1600kv 'new stronger' CS12 unit allocated for this F-16.... but I am tossing up on the odds of my 'early' CS12 being fine, because the flawed ones are beleived to have been from later batches than that one.
Eeeny, meeeny, miny, mo !!!

So next I will look at the F-16 and what it 'needs' done to it.....
Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 06:06 AM | 9,981 Views
Well this is certainly an "old" kit..... first out in 2007 ?
And although there are numerous videos around, not many people talk about it or own up to having one! LOL

I didn't read up on it before buying it and whilst I was waiting for it to arrive I did come across the one lonely thread about it. And that made it seem it had not been such a great idea to get one - versus the many other choices of aircraft (even any other HTG ones alone).

But anyway.... I have it now. And after a bit of checking it over, and the info from the Jepe kit build log, I will press on. With fair belief it will end up quite a nice looking F-22... that should even fly well.
Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 06:04 AM | 6,051 Views
The MrRCsound Pro_A sound system...
This is an AWESOME addition to a plane! This transforms RC aircraft 'modelling' massively!! You are now flying a model that not only LOOKS like the real aircraft, but can SOUND very much like it too!!!
Once you have used one, you almost wince when flying electric aircraft that don't have one!!
I even wince at Internal Combustion models!! LOL. Because that little screaming motor is nothing like a real one either!! The electric motor powered aircraft, with a sound system, is a clear scale model winner!!

More to come.....
Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 02, 2012 @ 06:02 AM | 8,044 Views
This is a very nice CHEAP kit. Typical of pretty well all Dynam's very nice balance of "Nicely done, cost effective, but keep things basic". At $117 in Australia, it is a great value plane... even if you just built it and flew it as it comes!
But as usual, I go over everything... and do 'improvements' to make sure it is properly airworthy and going to operate and fly PROPERLY and ONGOING!

I also added the MrRCsound Pro_A sound system... and this is an AWESOME addition to a plane! This transforms RC aircraft 'modelling' massively!! You are now flying a model that not only LOOKS like the real aircraft, but can SOUND very much like it too!!!
Once you have used one, you almost wince when flying electric aircraft that don't have one!!
I even wince at IC (Internal Combustion) models!! LOL. Because that little screaming motor is nothing like a real one either!! The electric motor powered aircraft, with a sound system, is a clear scale model winner!!

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Posted by PeterVRC | Dec 01, 2012 @ 05:07 AM | 7,014 Views
The Lander 10-Blade 70mm Alloy 6S 2200kv EDF unit seems to be using the CS10 rotor. It is a very nice and well made unit. Maybe a bit overly robust, and thus heavy, but this is a powerful and 'up to the task' unit.
They quote 1900W and I have only pushed mine to 1700W approx, which it can do but even at that level it gets very hot if you run it for very long at that level of power. I don't think it is 'fatally hot', but it is getting close to being detrimental for its long term lifespan. You would probably (and maybe I did) hit 1900W in peak bursts of a high C battery (65C) coming off fresh, or a lower power 'rest' period.

It comes with a screw off inlet ring, so you can use that, or not, as required. (required for bench testing). It also has two mounting flanges that are screwed on, so they can be left off if you want. Presonally I always use mounting flanges for all 70mm and upwards EDF's, partly to ensure they are 100% rigidly held always - especially for higher powers - but also so they can easily be removed, maintained, tested etc. It is easy to put plywood mounting rails into any foam aircraft.

HobbyKing currently sells this unit at $71.99, which is very good value for what you get really. But if you can dig up a BuddyCode it then drops it to $66, which a a real BARGAIN then! A 2960 motor alone would cost you in the area of $40 at least, if not more like $50 top $60.... and then $75+ for a HET. For no better result really. Then a CS10 for $15..... plus it is all...Continue Reading
Posted by PeterVRC | Sep 24, 2012 @ 09:25 AM | 6,971 Views
Here is just a bit of bits and pieces about the A-10 Warthog from HobbyKing.
It is a twin 75mm EDF powered, 1017mm Wingspan EPS foam jet.
I have heard there are EPO versions? Maybe a more recent batch from the same moulds? But I am not sure.

Twin 75mm sounds powerful!!! But really, they are just "numbers". 75mm alone doesn't mean anything really... it could be driven by weak motors, low voltage, the blade pitch could be low.... so that it really has far less power than you might have thought.
And that is what they have done in this case - under a lame excuse of it having large fans to get more low end thrust. Which I guess is actually technically possible. And it might even be that it ends up as a more efficient way to do things - that is one thing that it seems to do from my assessment of that. It gets very good flight times for an EDF... but it is also a very weak, under-powered, plane!
And is at the cost of having huge nacelles, way bigger than scale. Looking a bit silly really.

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Posted by PeterVRC | Sep 19, 2012 @ 07:40 AM | 7,054 Views
Just a quick throw together of a Turnigy 2836-3200kv outrunner, into a CS10.

I always drill an access hole into the housing to allow an allen head drvier to get into the shaft adaptor grub screws.

I also always file two opposing flats onto the shaft adaptor to allow the use of two shifters (spanners), so you can do up the rotor nut properly. No force on the fan or motor, just on the shaft and nut like you technically should only do!

Most aircraft don't have the inlet lip on the fan when it is installed, but some do. And for bench testing you need it ON, so that the fan can 'grab' its full load of airflow - wthout it results will be WAY lower than they can do with ducting. I just use 4 pieces of fibre tape to affix the inlet ring for testing, each placed at 90deg around the fan.

BALANCE the rotor!! I static balance it first. Sometimes dynamic balance them.... but really SHOULD do that to them all. (Note: this post is 'old' now)
The balancer is a Turnigy carbon fibre heli blades balancer, disassembled and placed up an a wooden frame so I can do any rotor size, and also propellers up to about 14" or so.
For rotors I have mounted rare earth magnets so the balance shaft is suspended in mid air at one end, for zero friction, and the shaft has points ground on each end, so even the end that does sit against a magnet has near zero friction.
In a way that is TOO LITTLE friction, as the rotor can roll to a stop for the weeniest imbalance - which means less imbalance than even needed to care about. But you really gauge imbalance by how far it swings per 'rock' and how fast it 'rocks'.
Stuff small pieces of tape into the hub 'holes' between the strengthening ribs. And check again.....

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