Posted by Tarmakin | May 11, 2016 @ 06:53 PM | 2,831 Views
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RC Night Flying Action (3 min 12 sec)

Posted by Tarmakin | May 11, 2016 @ 06:52 PM | 2,870 Views
Looking to try and get my subscriber numbers up so please subscribe to my page.

RC Take Offs, Landings and OH S*&t !!! Moments (7 min 56 sec)

Posted by Steve_ | May 11, 2016 @ 06:28 PM | 6,396 Views
This is a Blade Nano CPS slowed down 8x.

Nano CPS Smooth Departure Slow Motion (4 min 51 sec)


Pretty smooth for a 5 inch long helicopter.
Posted by r39o | May 11, 2016 @ 06:10 PM | 10,228 Views
My Easy Star has flaperons added.

Experience tells me the wing has been weakened.

Here is my start to adding an extra carbon fiber spar
Posted by aben71 | May 11, 2016 @ 05:14 PM | 2,802 Views
Perfect afternoon to take the KAIDENG K70 out for a flight
Posted by aben71 | May 11, 2016 @ 05:06 PM | 3,070 Views
Trying out my FPV setup on my WlToys A979 truckA979+RunCam paired up with a 5.8ghz transmitter+Eachine VR007 goggles - fun ride
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:36 PM | 211,003 Views
Calibrating for level is very, very critical to the FC. You need to show the FC what level is really in the air. The only way to do this is to level the motors in relation to each other using a level and a level surface. Do not trust that having your quad on the landing gear means your motors are actually level to each other. I do this procedure on all my craft.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...n#post32447039

Originally Posted by WhiffleX View Post
I see, so it's basically a method for leveling the flight controller during calibration. I might want to try something like that because I fairly crudely calibrated mine. Is the reason for the bottles the fact that the legs may not be entirely the same length?
LOL...beer bottles. Me. It was something I had on hand that made sense to use. They fit directly under the motors...I used this for both my F450 and CX-20. It works wonders. No more Auto Trims needed, if you do this correctly/accurately. Make sure you use a level, and the bottles are easy to shim up if needed.

I only take credit for using beer bottles. Empty I may add...
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:31 PM | 210,843 Views
Quote:
Originally Posted by UltiFix View Post
THR_MID set at 600 for all of these flights, also using 9444 DJI self tigthening props form valuehobby.
Flights:
1. THR_ACCEL_IMAX set at 500, originally was 1000
Details: Amazing. But when I swung my controller it moved, must have been from the sticks moving or something? But this was a HUGE improvemt from before

2. Changed INS_MPU6K_FILTER from 0 to 20 (Changed THR_ACCEL_IMAX back to 1000)
Details:SUPER AMAZING, did do some moving but corrected itself. Tried swinging my controller around again and it moved the throttle stick, must be what happend in flight 1?

3. THR_ACCEL_IMAX at 500 was 1000 and INS_MPU6K_FILTER at 20 was 0
Details:Wow, my quad in gps mode is COMPLETELY different now. It's great.

Quad808, THANK YOU
Between this and moving and shielding my gps its alot better.

When I originally got my quad the gps was great! Then I updated the firmware... Lost the original stuff and its never been the same since... But now its great!
Thanks again!

EDIT: On flight 3 I should say it also did a bit of moving but it was still a lot better than before, checking logs to see what my Nsats were and my HDOP. Will upload log in a minute
Glad to help because this will help others as well. So to sum it up...do you think it was the #1 - change from 1000 to 500? Or combination of #1 and #2?
If you change both...500 and 20 and leave it...best combination?? I am really interested in #2...the INS_MPU6K_FILTER. I have read that that from the 2 version of the code to 3, this value was defaulted to 0, but should be at 20. This change to 20 seems to improve the hold of the quad. If you look at MP it says right there that it should be 20, but if anyone upgrades it defaults to 0. I am leaving mine on 20 and 500 unless I am told or shown otherwise.
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:24 PM | 210,686 Views
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1#post31762658

They arrived this morning from Banggood, who guarentees that they only sell originals. Currently on the quad are counterfeits. What arrived from Banggood are genuine originals. Here are some pictures and ways to tell for sure, so that you don't get taken. I will say that the counterfeits do work well, but will see once I swap them out, how well they were actually working.
1. The boxes are a little different. Printing is a little different, but pretty close and hard to tell, unless you have them side by side like I did.
2. Fakes come packaged in ziplock bags. Originals come in sealed bags. I figured that the originals "could" arrive in ziplock bags, if the shipper tested them. NOPE.
3. Fakes come with all black hardware, again in ziplock bags. No silver screws. Originals come with silver screws.
4. Printing on motors...originals are more vibrant.
5. Machining on bottom of motor. Originals are well machined, no circular marks - clip on shaft is different.
6. Windings. HUGE difference. Originals are very well done. Fakes, not so much.
Be careful where you purchase them and at what cost. Make sure you can return them if they are fakes. Here are some pictures to check out for reference: (last 2 pictures are fakes for comparison.)
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:21 PM | 210,669 Views
replace Capacitors on the CX/Nova ESC's:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9#post31957036
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:19 PM | 212,666 Views
Guys...I need to vent.
I must like doing things the very hard way, so I hope this will help anyone else, and stop them from doing the same thing.

TUNING YOUR PIDS (revisited)
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post33082145

Ok, so I like Autotune. It makes the process painless, and you can avoid the manual tuning. (or so I thought...read on)

Ran autotune on my Hex with 3S, then once I shifted to 4S, ran it again, which changed the PIDS dramatically lower. I ran Autotune about 4 times, but the Hex did not seem to be "locked" in.
So....I have spent HOURS on PIDS. adjust this...then fly, re-adjust then fly and so on, and so on. NEVER GOT IT CORRECT.
I was doing this to avoid having to manually tune with my tx on chnl 6. I have a Taranis, but I am pretty sure you can do the same thing on the CX/Quanum Tx.

I tuned the Hex the best it has ever flow in about 1 hour, using chnl 6!

Ok, so what did I do you say, and how did I do it?

Well, Autotune works well - and will get your craft flying better than accepting Arducopter defaults. Here is what I did:
Ran Autotune several times to get a baseline. (I had done that already)

In MP you can assign a PID setting to chnl 6, so you can make changes in the air. I was avoiding this, for fear of crashing. It is easy to do. Assign chnl 6 in MP to a pot and calibrate your controller. Make sure chnl 6 moves correctly in MP.

1. take a screen shot of your current PIDS.
2. set the I and D values to 0. Yes...0. Zero, nada...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:16 PM | 211,193 Views
*I continue to add more content to the end*
latest addition 2/4/17

Gang,
if you have never tuned your quad, you are missing out. You may think is is flying the best it ever has, but you are flying with defaults. It's not that hard, but just takes some time.

Autotune - before running autotune, the quad MUST be VERY STABLE in AltHold. If your quad is "wobbly" don't run Autotune, you risk it flipping. This has happened to some here. I can't stress this enough. Autotune will stress your quad to limits in pitch and roll, then "tune" it to what the program thinks is the best settings for your setup. AUTOTUNE WILL NOT FIX A CRAFT THAT IS NOT STABLE IN THE FIRST PLACE. That is not what it is for. It is for fine tuning your PIDS to your setup. The autotune process saves you loads of time in manual tuning. It just automates the process to give you a good baseline to continue with manual tuning, or if you are happy with the results, you can keep them.

For a successful autotune make sure all your screws are tight and nothing is loose on the Quad.
1. You must have done ALL CALIBRATIONS, including the beer bottle calibration for perfect level. You want to give your quad the best calibrated settings you can for a successful autotune.
2. Must be completely stable in AltHold. No wobbling, and no drifting vertically at all.
3. No loose parts on the Quad. The craft will shake a lot and loose parts will throw off the autotune. The programmers recommend doing an...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:14 PM | 211,015 Views
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9#post31886786

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quad808 View Post
It really is very, very difficult.

OK, no it isn't at ALL!! This is so easy to do, its dumb not to do this. It requires removing 1 already connected wire and then getting a new wire and connecting both ends...one goes to the FC, the other goes to the RX....basically you are connecting a wire from #-3 on the RX to 8 Aux4 on the FC. (left picture)(currently #-3 RX goes to the bottom of the quad for Aux2 connection, #8 Aux4 FC is not connected to anything)
Here is a quick and easy guide to using autotune with the stock TX:

1) Fabricate a 1 pin servo wire. You can do one of the following:
A) Buy a JR plug, in the bag you get a JR plastic plug housing, and some metal pin
connectors. Take a wire and crimp + heatshrink one of the connectors to each
end of the wire. (I grabbed one from a PC case that I had)
B) Take a 3-wire servo connector (female to female), carefully crack open the
plugs at both ends of the wire with some pliers and extract one of the wires with the metal connectors still attached to it.

2) Open up your Nova / Cx-20

3) Disconnect the 3 wire servo plug from the channel labelled "-1-2-3" on the stock RX (this is the one for the gimbal controls). Remove the #-3 wire from the 3 wire connector.

4) Connect your 1 pin servo wire to the signal pin of channel "-3" on the RX, or slide it into the 3 wire connector. Put the 3 wire...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:11 PM | 3,981 Views
Crappy HK retracts, or are they??
If you have been thinking about using your hard earned $$ for a pair of retracts from HK and read about the failure rate, read on.

Sorry, I don't have pics...but basically - the retracts may appear to be "dead", but actually aren't. They are jammed. This took me over 3 hours of my life last night to figure out. Don't do it the way I did.

Basically the retracts work on a simple system...brushed motor attached to a worm drive(sort of) with a bar in the middle that travels on the worm drive forward and backward (spins) as the motor changes direction and the worm drive spins. (like a nut on a bolt moves as you spin the bolt and hold onto the nut. You get the idea. The retracts rest on the bar and have a U shape to them. The bar moves, the legs either go up or go down as the bar travels.

Why they appear to be broken. What happens is the bar gets moved down the worm drive to far, the retract U goes flat and rests against the bar, not permitting it to move at all. Think of the U on its side with the open side pointing to the right and the bar against the bottom U leg. The brushless motor can't turn at all, so you get nothing, nada, zilch movement. It appears dead.

Those of you with these retracts, I bet every retract that appears to not work is stuck in the UP position, right?? (as long as this is the problem)

How to fix it. DON'T TAKE THE SCREWS OUT OF THE BACK WHERE THE SHRINK WRAPPED MOTOR IS ATTACHED!! Of course I did this, and...Continue Reading
Posted by JetMang | May 11, 2016 @ 03:50 PM | 2,497 Views
2nd in my Gilman Springs RC Flyers US Scale Master's Qualifier coverage. This Sopwith Pup was gorgeous!

I'll have full coverage on my blog in the coming weeks: http://thercgeek.com


RC Sopwith Pup Biplane Flight at Gilman Springs USSM Qualifier RC Airshow (3 min 26 sec)

Posted by Alias_Hendrik | May 11, 2016 @ 03:41 PM | 15,207 Views
Driving on a normal road in a straight line is not easy, at least for me i already gave the front wheels some "toe in" instead of out which seems better in keeping the line. The steering on the FY03 is always a little twitchy meaning it reacts a little too fast around center of the steering knob and some relief would not hurt. So i opened the tx and stared at it lol.

The Feiyue FY03 seems to have 2 steering pot. meters, one for the right hand steering and one for the left hand steering wheel. Anyway, by adding two 2K2 resistors (2200 ohm) the steering wheel is a little less twitchy around center position and you still have the full steering capacity at the end points of the steering wheel.

The 2 resistors in the first picture are soldered on (for) acting on the steering wheel for right hand steering. So now i could test if it made any difference between the right and left hand steering and indeed by adding the 2 resistors there is now a little expo which make driving more easy. I'm left handed so i added another 2 resistors on the board for the left hand steering position. (The second picture the 2 resistors on the right are for left hand steering).

I lifted the antenna cable a little so it was more easy to solder the resistors but be carefull so the soldering from the antenna cable will not break otherwise you need to resolder the antenna cable. On mine only the antenna cable center conductor was soldered. ( i did some tests with other antennas for the tx...Continue Reading
Posted by ljakob | May 11, 2016 @ 03:18 PM | 1,522 Views
Hi,

I've just finished soldering my first "Ultimate LRS Mini" PCB but I could't test it yet. Some people asked me if I could sell the PCBs. Here is some info:

The final product looks like the attached picture. I've simplified the schematic:
* no RSSI output
* the TRX is powered with 5V - same as the arduino (I didn't want to waste so much power from my 4S Lipos in that voltage regulator to get 6V)
* the group of vias on the PCB was meant to solder to the ground area of the trx for better heat conductivity, but I didn't get it to bond.

You can order my untested prototype from here:

http://dirtypcbs.com/view.php?share=...4dfe112ebdd4ac

10 PCBs cost 14 USD if you can wait 3 weeks, you can't beat that price

All other parts come from aliexpress, the TRX come from here:

http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/RNBQVfMzV

If you find a bug or need the eagle files just let me know.

Please be warned: this stuff does not work yet, it's all prototype

I'll keep you updated with my progress.
Posted by JulianGoesPro | May 11, 2016 @ 03:02 PM | 29,172 Views
This is kind of an coward situation... I love Spektrum but now I have to talke about an Orange Receiver... well... it's just too good not to

This is the R620X V2 telemetry, SBus and DSMX (and DSM2) Receiver from HobbyKing



...Continue Reading
Posted by r39o | May 11, 2016 @ 01:14 PM | 9,843 Views
I am done with the repair and new motor mount!

I used mainly white transparent Gorilla Glue to hold the mount and to fill in voids.

It IS solid now!
Posted by papadwight | May 11, 2016 @ 12:44 PM | 9,974 Views
When Came home with less than I was planning to get . I had the money just a old cheap son of gun may still get others later but not today That was 208.00 with tax today. Going to order more night vapor batterys they did not have any today. Still looking at j3 cub and radain glider. So I called back and ordered a radain and some night vapor batterys be here next week.
getting windy 05 10 2016 (2 min 42 sec)