https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ry-Siem-Aimery

Possible Motors Lentus

Robbe 3546 910kv plus accessory pack for 3646

Axi 2814-20 with the same Aeronaut 12X6

AXI 2820/12 GOLD LINE V3 LONG
https://www.modelmotors.cz/product/detail/418/

BadAss 2826-1030Kv Brushless Motor
https://innov8tivedesigns.com/badass...ess-motor.html

Emax GT2826 860KV:
https://alofthobbies.com/products/emax-gt2826-860kv

Wing harness 1.5m (get the two-piece harness; don't buy the 1-piece wing harness)
https://alofthobbies.com/products/wing-harness-1-5m

Fuselage harness 30cm:
https://alofthobbies.com/products/fuselage-harness-30cm

Emax ES09MD Servos:
https://alofthobbies.com/products/em...sec-14-8-grams

Aeronaut Cam 11"X8" :
https://alofthobbies.com/products/ae...-11x8-28x20-cm

spinner from Espirit Model.


https://youtu.be/2gDs610BY00?si=jybyeaF7V_34eT_C

https://youtu.be/-iii-LNMnHE?si=ekf9_1mhuAhABNjE

https://youtu.be/PIj5q_sjQ2A?si=BYXZ-ufKYEheL-Mj

https://youtu.be/XuYbD56tyek?si=wLunB9I7DHBPIEWC

Snap flaps
thermal
speed
butterfly/crow
full span ailerons

I am attaching pictures of just some of the things I have to trade. There is lots more.
I am looking for a modern spektrum dx6 or similar.
The catch is I have to trade for it.
Located in Henryetta Oklahoma.
Also open to selling these items and more....Continue Reading

I started a plane called the jump racer . I do not remember how i found it but it is part of a program from the German version of AMA.
Plans are available here: https://www.jump-dmfv.aero/downloads/

A thread about this plane is here ( google can be used to translate the entire web site) : https://www.rc-network.de/threads/dm...deos.11984736/

The information about the plans construction and plans can also be found in Midell Flieger Magazine , issues 07-2023, 10-2023 and 01-2024. There are preview pages where you can browse for free part of the articles. https://www.modellflieger-magazin.de...3c7f9/editions

The leading idea for fixing the radio is moving it entirely to 433Mhz. In past experience with 2.4Ghz, it outright died in downtown. There might be hope in 5.8Ghz. The very latest hobby radios from Horizon Hobby & DJI are still using 2.4Ghz for control.

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The gopro situation is a more difficult problem. Most 1920x1440 files recorded on the 128 gigs had a failure. The older 64 gig never failed at either 4k or 1920x1440. It definitely looked like a card failure because frames started flashing as if the shutter was getting stuck before finally freezing as if it wasn't writing any more data. The audio was still getting written, as if the low bitrate of audio was getting through.

Noted after many recordings, it said "repairing file". Corruption wasn't limited to just when the batteries died in the field, but in testing to battery failure, every single recording which was stopped by battery failure was corrupted. Verified the files are corrupted no matter how many files are on the card.

Recording until battery failure was the standard procedure with the 64 gig, but verified this is now causing data corruption on the 64 gig card with the very same stuttering & flashing right before the crash. During these full discharge tests, it no longer shut down properly when the battery died. It could be a power management IC has perished. The pro is...Continue Reading

I'm making a blog about this for my reference at a later date. This original post was in the Xfly B-1B Lancer thread, discussing how to slow down the elevator compensation transition when the wings of the bomber sweep back.

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I have been trying to find a solution with my iX12 to have the elevator trim change slow down so it transitioned smoothly as the wings swept. I think I finally found a way to do it. You can read about it here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-iX12/page1228

Just so everyone knows, the newest line of Spektrum transmitters has a flight mode transition speed option, which would be the go-to solution for the problem listed above. But, radios like the iX12 (and I assume any of the Dx transmitters) don't have this feature, so we have to get more creative.

While I won't go into the nitty-gritty details, here is the gist of it;

• Go into sequencer and create a simple sequence.
• Define what switch activates the sequence (I used the switch that controls my wing sweep).
• Set a time for forward and reverse (click "NORMAL" and select 6 seconds)
• Then, where it shows the value graph, set the numbers so the line goes smoothly from -100% to +100%
• You'll note that the graph has a label, mine was S3A.
• Next, go into the Mixing menu and create a new Mix.
• Select the input as S3A and the output as Elevator.
• The settings you need to use here will

...Continue Reading

Maiden flight performed
who else is flying this Trojan
spec: Planet Hobby Joker 6350-8 V3 with 6S 6200 mAh battery
weight 10420 g

I got the Spinnn from clubmember Jim who could not complete the installation of servos and a receiver in the very tight plastic fuselage. The hollow molded wing with flaperon servos is a high performance motorglider that is fast but can slow down with camber from a DX or NX TX.

Rc groups has reported that the ESC can over heat and cause loss of power to the receiver. To prevent this the recommendation is to not use full power. This can be done by programming the TX throttle limit.

I used a wattmeter to measure the 11 A ESC and stock motor and prop that was installed.
With a charged 2S 300 JST lipo used in the UMX Conscendo: The NX10 Spinnn program was partially set up using a Spektrum AR410 RX with no telemetry or SAFE. With the case removed it fits in the elevator and rudder servo area of the fuselage.
8.8 A, 6.1 V, 54 Watts

The thrust seems enough for vertical acceleration.


IN Comparison……

Wattmeter tests on UMX Conscendo 2
There are no specs on the motor and prop with any lipos. So here are mine using a wattmeter

With a fully charged 3S 300 30c SMART lipo:
6.4 amps, 11.1 volts, 72 watts

With a fully charged 4S 300 30c lipo
9 amps, 16.2 volts, 134 watts.

Servo loads before and after full throw:
Elevator: .17 to .23 amps
Ailerons: .17 to .26 amps

So the brick ESC could power the Spinn motor and prop on 2S at 8.8 amps which theoretically could be reliable on short 5 second climbs

Note ; the spin 11 A ESC got slightly warm but the black plastic spinner got slightly warmer from the motor that is attached to it.

Episode 195: "The Godfather" is now live!
https://rcroundtable.com/podcasts/mp...pisode_195.mp3

In this episode, the gang chats with the man who brought electric RC flight to the masses, Dr. Keith Shaw.
-Cleveland (2:30)
-Early electrics (18:00)
-Resistance (31:00)
-The yaw problem (49:45)
-Favorite model (1:00:00)
-Low-power aerobatics (1:13:15)
-Practical electrics (1:23:00)
-A123 (1:34:25)
-Airshow! (1:48:00)

You can visit our website at RCRoundtable.com to listen over the web or download an MP3 of the show. Or, you can subscribe to RC Roundtable on iTunes.

We would love to read your comments and ideas. Please drop us an email: contact@rcroundtable.com

My first attempt at a 2 piece wing

1m dlg 2-piece wing (3 min 51 sec)

...Continue Reading

I had a couple of model stands that I'd used for years. They had various duties, but mostly holding models while I worked them and transporting fuselages to the field where I wanted them to be more stable. I had and Ernst and a Robart. The Ernst is a trooper and is pretty much in the same condition as when I first got it, only needing a wrap duct tape over the foam pads (that were leaving black marks on airplanes from too much sun exposure). The Robart, on the other hand was just worn out from use, the uprights didn't fit tight any more and the Styrofoam was just breaking off in places. The need for a new stand came apparent while I was repairing my Sig Kougar. I swear, I seemed to spend as much time getting it stay together as I did repairing the plane.

Time for a new stand. I knew Robard had a new generation of foam stands (as seen on RCG) but based on experience, I wanted to get another Ernst. My Ernst dates back to when we had actual model airplane oriented hobby shops, so I wondered if they were still available. So, of course, I asked Amazon. Yes, Ernst it still in business and stands are available. It showed me a picture of the ubiquitous blue/gray stands, gave me a price and told me I could have it in a couple of days. I was about to put one in my cart, when I noticed there appeared to be options beyond blue/gray. There were! In fact you could choose from several colors and, surprisingly, the alternate colors were less expensive than the traditional blue/gray...Continue Reading

Here's a flight video from the Watervliet Dome. I passed the transmitter around so people could give it a try.

This is a challenge to many companies to begin providing an electric option. There are scads of plans, kits, and short-kits all aimed at fuel-based IC engines. Even though guys like me are mastering the electric conversions, it's a scratchbuild experiment every time.

1. My first build-from-plans took a year to complete largely because I was trying to figure out a viable electronic system within the balsa and ply framework. It was only when I figured out the hatch that the electronics version came together. (1/5 scale Ford Flivver)
2. My first conversion from an already built plane to electric ended up having to cut the nose off and making a cowl held on by magnets.Only when I figured out the motor mount did the project get completed. (Direct Connect F-18 converted to F-15b)
3. Building three models that were designed expressly for electrics was a revelation. I learned a great deal from those model designers, including how to build a sturdier fuselage that wasn't tail-heavy. (Dancing Wings Albatros D3, for instance.)

Companies like Horizon Hobby hasve churned out many foam-built ARF's that are in the electronic genre, so companies have mastered how to do this in foam. Now, I think there needs to be a balsa-building renaissance in which an extra plan sheet should show how the motor>ESC>lipo>servo system fits in a well-designed plane.

Forgot to post these on my blog:

Pedro (1 min 56 sec)

Little Plank (3 min 24 sec)

...Continue Reading

OpenLSRng Configurator tested on DTFUHF ,OrangeRX, Flytron,ChipLRS, Wolf......Very stable version

To run the Configurator you need to Download NW.js the old version v0.36.2 (https://dl.nwjs.io/v0.36.2/)
then place the configurator folder inside the NW.js directory,
then drag and drop the 0.57 folder onto the NW.exe file

Good Luck.....

The floats work fine on water and on land. There is plenty of power on the stock power plant and prop with 6S for grass and Geotech runway operations. The plastic float bottoms allow sliding like an airboat but reverse thrust tilts the aft end of the floats into the surface and prevents reverse taxi. So I am adding wheels to solve this problem and to protect the plastic when concrete or asphalt operations are used. The main wheels will be placed on the floats so as to prevent tilting but still allow take off rotation. The final design will be either taped or bolted to the float hull for quick installation and removal. The nose wheels will be removable by removing the wheel collars. A separate steering servo and tiller will steer the left nose gear and the right nose wheel is a castor type design.

This is my Maiden Flight Review off Rough Grass of the Brand New FMS Integral 80mm EDF Jet.

Rough Field Maiden Flight Review | FMS Integral 80mm EDF Jet (4 min 54 sec)

I have an O. S. 46 that recently started kicking backwards when trying to start it via a stick. Anyone have any experience w/this problem? Could a bent connecting rod cause this? Any input is greatly appreciated. Jim M.

I modified the UMX Radian with landing gear when operating inside a gym. Instead of hand launching and belly landing the gear allowed me to taxi out to a take off area and back into the pits with out getting out of my seat. I’ve made similar gear for the UMX Conscendo.

The wire came from a foam model that had a pushrod tube. The diameter is 1.2 mm or 3/64”. I used a Dremel cut off tool to make a drill bit from the wire and drilled next to the plastic belly skid. I angled the drill so as to penetrate the plastic battery holder. I then bent the wire about 90 degrees forward to nose 33 mm. This portion acts as torque rod. I then bent the wire 90 degrees to form the gear leg. I then bent the wire 13 mm to support the skid. The skid can be made from a discarded credit card. I used plastic from a milk bottle that is .68 mm or .027” thick. Ideally material that is the thickness of the wire will work better. The teardrop shaped skid is 85x27 mm. After bending the wire into shape I drilled a hole for a small screw to secure the wire next to the belly skid. Final bending of the wire was done with two sets of needle nose pliers. After final shaping I used a Sharpie pen to mark the skid for drilling out a slot to support the wire. I used a drill bit a little larger than the wire. The wire is laminated with tape of your choice. I used Teflon PTFE glass cloth tape. A #11 blade or small box cutter is used to trim the tape. The gear can be unsnapped and stored in the cardboard box when needed for hard surface use such as concrete, asphalt, Geotech fabric or gym floors. There is no tailwheel and the aft tailskid protects the foam fuselage. When the fuselage is level there is about 9 mm of prop clearance. The model now weighs 115 grams with out a battery. This includes added plastic paper that is used to enlarge the rudder area. Flight and ground testing will be next.

If anyone has articles or any other info on the building of indoor props Please feel free to leave a link. I've consumed a lot of info so far, But you never know if you missed anything.