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Archive for October, 2018
Posted by VicT | Oct 25, 2018 @ 03:34 PM | 2,676 Views
Here are the steps and pics showing you how I installed the prop bands. You dont have to have them but they help reduce drag and when you start up there is no single blade hanging low to cause an imbalance....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 25, 2018 @ 03:24 PM | 2,270 Views
I like to have the blades folded up against the fuselage to reduce drag and to minimize start up imbalance loads on the prop shaft and motor. Airspeed will not do this for all the times but the bands will.

The FT prop shaft has a flat that should be moved forward using a file or Dremel tool. Then two bands are put behind the adaptor and the blades and yoke is mounted. See the video for how it works. In the multiple start ups and folding the blades fold up against the fuselage.

FT Radian gets Goody Bands (0 min 14 sec)

Posted by VicT | Oct 25, 2018 @ 02:13 PM | 2,321 Views
Got about 10 hand launches and 8 minutes on a new 1300 3S that was VERY tight in the foam fuse. I may remove some foam to get some flow thru cooling. The LED connector on the bottom of the stabilizer (see pic 3 on page 5 of manual) was hanging outside and looking ugly. So I recesssed it and taped over it. See pics below.

Binding went fast as there are no special settings for the DX radios. Rudder is on the right aileron stick but I like to have rudder ALSO on the left rudder stick so I added a mix that is always on. Its at 50 percent. On the maiden I had SAFE Self Level Off so I could trim her out. The rudder and elevator were aligned with their surfaces but added -64 units of up elevator trim to slow her down. At full power she wanted to go vertical and then inverted just like the original design but with Self Level On and full up elevator she climbs at 45 degrees max and this is what I will be using. Full down gives 45 degree dive and speed picks up just a little to maybe 20 mph. Radian is still a slow poke and picks up lift very well.

Today we had a direct crosswind with a little gust to maybe 10 mph. Nothing that the Radian and experienced pilot could not handle. When the crosswind gets under the upwind wing and lifts it the rudder tries to maintain heading. This sets up a little wobble just like the original Radian. If this design had automatic wing leveling with ailerons then I dont think there would be any wobble. For future...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 18, 2018 @ 12:42 PM | 3,235 Views
The remaining Modes are Thermal and Land. The Cirruss trailing edge camber can be set to about 3-5 degrees down to increase the camber and lower the thermal speed. Since the speed will be lower I would set 100 percent on the D/R menu. The elevator setting could be set on the TX and it will be remembered. I am usually in a turn when in a thermal so I put in a little more up elevator trim. When I roll out and go straight I may see pre stall porpoising so I take the trim out. Of course you can cheat and put SAFE Self Level ON when thermaling (or searching for a thermal). Purists will get upset but Cirrus is your model. When both ailerons and flaps are cambered down you are at greater risk for stall because there is no washout on the wing (like you will get in Landing Mode). So stalls can be dangerous unless you have about 100 feet or 10 seconds to recover. Here is my stall recovery procedure:

Go full power as this will put you into the Launch mode. Flaps and ailerons will retract intoa minimum wing drag configuration. The prop blast over the elevator will allow more pitch control. If Self Level is On the nose may be down and so up elevator will be applied automatically. If the stall has not been broken then apply down elevator and opposite rudder (if a spin or spiral is seen). Down elevator with prop thrust over the elevator will cause a dive and increase in airspeed where recovery is possible. Now this is theory and will be flight tested...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 18, 2018 @ 11:36 AM | 3,208 Views
Other reasons for Flight Modes is to deploy flaps or spoilerons or flaperons. For example in the Speed FM you could reflex both ailerons and flaps to streamline the airfoil to go faster with power off glide. Of course you would most likely put in down elevator trim to achieve a 10 degree nose down attitude. This would be with SAFE On or Off. In SAFE ON the flight control movements are much less than when Self Level is On. This is OK and is to be expected. In the D/R & Expo menu you could scroll the Switch position and select Flight Mode. Then you would most likely set a rate and expo value at high speed that would not be too much but comfortable and not pitch sensitive. There will be more on this when I go into flight testing and adjustment. More on the FM Table:

Spee is the FM for power off and best dive speed. If you like to dive at a vertical 90 degree descent or a 10 degree glide angle this is your Speed Mode. You will go faster if your prop is feathered and not turning (or windmilling). Thats why I will be using the 60 amp ESC with a programable prop brake. Later I may try a folding prop. Lets say your full throttle dive speed is measured (or estimated) at 60 mph. If your brake is strong enough and you can stop the prop your power off dive speed will be greater. How much? I had a motor glider that doubled the speed. Full throttle gave me 60 mph and power off folded prop gave me 120 mph. Of course the Cirrus is a different...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 18, 2018 @ 10:50 AM | 2,750 Views
These settings are for my DX9 TX with the stock SR22 AR636A receiver:
1. Throttle
2. Right Aileron
3. Elevator
4. Rudder
5. 2 Flaps on a Y cable
6. Left Aileron
8. SAFE Self Level On/Off on switch B (You can use channel 7 if you have a 7 or 8 channel TX.

If you have not used Flight Modes you are in for a treat. Ever go full power and the model pitches up and over (like the original Radian). Just when you get both hands on the TX its too late. In Flight Modes you use the Throttle stick for 3 different Elevator trim settings. So for high throttle you would use down trim.
Posted by VicT | Oct 17, 2018 @ 10:34 PM | 2,585 Views
I made a copy of the DX 9 program that was used for 5 flights just in case I wanted to go back to a working program. The copy was reset when I went to the Sailplane Type Model. Why not use Airplane type? Because the Sailplane program has Camber Presets and more Flight Modes.
Posted by VicT | Oct 17, 2018 @ 01:17 AM | 2,606 Views
The purpose of separating the Cirrus ailerons is for spoilerons and flaperons. Inboard flaps can be lowered 4-5 degrees and each aileron can be lowered 4-5 degrees so the whole trailing edge can be cambered into a thermal airfoil section. Moving the D switch from this position 1 to 2 will put the inboard flaps max down and both ailerons reflex max up for spoilerons. The 0 position has matching ailerons and flaps in the neutral camber position.

The stock ailerons are connected to ch 2 with a Y cable. The left aileron Y is connected to the left white fuselage fixture (lff). This middle plug in the fixture must be removed and replaced with a single cable that will be connected to ch 6/left aileron channel or LAL. Use a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the lff to the fuselage. Then remove the 3 screws securing the 3 black male connectors but before doing this put Sharpie pen marks on the forward and aft plugs since they are the flap and light connectors. The middle connector will be removed and taped over to prevent it from being accidentally used.
Posted by VicT | Oct 16, 2018 @ 10:29 AM | 2,697 Views
On my last flight I found the throttle setting where level flight (SAFE On) exists with full landing flaps. You read on the top line of your DX TX display. My setting is 46 percent. After landing I opened up the throttle curve program and turned it On and set point 3 at 46 percent. Then I set point 2 a little below at 41 and point 4 at 54 percent. This gives a flatter throttle slope to allow fine tuning when I turn onto base and final approach. Now I can reduce throttle to a nice glide slope setting and just use rudder to maintain localizer/azimuth/runway centerline. Its no Cat 3 but much better than prehistoric RC flying.
Posted by VicT | Oct 15, 2018 @ 10:04 PM | 2,070 Views
I like to stop the prop while gliding especially if I use a folding prop. Here is a link to the ESC Instructions.

I was able to get to the two fast tones programming step but no further. I called Horizon Tech and they said the Cirrus ESC can not be programmed. I could get a Maule 40 amp ESC for $30 or a V900 60 amp ESC for $60. Both are programmable.
I ordered an Aerostar 60 amp RVS ESC. I use it on my Maule with floats that has flaps on channel 6 and reverse on channel 5 using the 3 position E switch. The Aerostar is easy to program for prop brake. You have to have the prop stopped in order to have the ESC reverse the motor/prop direction. Reverse should be fun on the Cirrus for stopping and backing up on the runway.
Posted by VicT | Oct 15, 2018 @ 09:24 PM | 2,010 Views
I have many places where I fly RC and I have to carry the model and TX out to the runway or takeoff spot. For models like the high wing Apprentice, Valiant, Beaver, or Maule I use a retractable wire handle to lift and carry the model. The handle can be used to hang the model from a ceiling. The low wing Cirrus is different and so I use 65 b Spiderwire fishing line attached to the fuselage. I wrap the line with a clove hitch, put a drop of CA on the knot/toothpick and sink the tooth pick into the foam fuselage. When dry I test the pull strength of the string and joint. See...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 14, 2018 @ 10:51 PM | 2,084 Views
Tyvek hinges work very well as they can be used with regular CA and most foam airframes. Applied like Monocote hinges (but with CA rather than an iron) they are very strong and they dont stretch. I try and use them on ailerons, flaps, elevator and rudder. Here I use them on the canopy and receiver belly door for the Cirrus.

Get a Postal or Fedex envelope that is Tyvek. Sand both sides with 100-220 grit paper lightl to rough up the surface for CA. Use an accelerator on one side either the foam or Tyvek. Cut Tyvek into 1/8 wide strips. When applying CA use a very small amount and press down using clear Monocote backing as CA will not stick to this type of plastic.

The Cirrus canopy has 4 magnets and a foam tongue. Over time the magnets will either lose their magnetism or fall away due to heat expansion and contraction compared to the glue. Lose a canopy in flight? Good luck getting a replacement! Using the existing magnets and a hinge with a clasp increases the reliabilty of the latching design. You will never forget your canopy at home and no more canopys flying off the table at the flying field.

Start by applying a simple two strip hinge for the servo belly door. See pics. Then move on to the more complicated
Canopy....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 07, 2018 @ 09:44 PM | 6,617 Views
To improve air flow through the battery and ESC area I removed the RX and ESC. Using hemostats and a box cutter I enlarged the area from the ESC area to the receiver area. I added two intake vents and two exhaust vents aft of the canopy.

As a side modification I cut the bottom skeg area and installed a Dubro 1.25 inch Lite wheel. The axle is supported by two holes drilled into the white plastic belly pan. The wheel well area was opened up to aid in exhaust vents. I added a popsicle stick to support the battery holder and strap. It was moved aft an up just a little so cooling air can go under and around the 1050 4S ZOP lipo pack. Low temp glue gun was used to secure the battery holder and ESC. A poplsicle stick was glued between the fuse sides and the ESC....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 04, 2018 @ 09:30 PM | 2,449 Views
My first prototype wheel works but I feel a better placement will improve ground handling during landing roll out on grass and especially hard surface runways made from asphalt, concrete, or hard dirt/sand.

From past experience with my Calypso motor glider pictured below I think this is the ideal placement. The axle is directly under the leading edge of the wing. For the Conscendo a wheel housing would be required. I have some 1/32 inch ply that can be laminated to retain the axle bolt. Fiberglass cloth and epoxy will be used form the shape of the belly. Imbedding the wheel as much as possible in the fuselage will be attempted.
Posted by VicT | Oct 02, 2018 @ 09:12 AM | 2,469 Views
The approximate dihedral angle was measured as 21 degrees for Conscendo Advanced. Any angle between 18-22 will do. A greater angle will provide more turning performance with rudder only.

An alternative method is to cut the stock tube at the halfway point and insert a 4-6 inch long music wire bent slightly to create more dihedral. A straight 4-6 music wire can be put in to bring the stock dihedral back. The wire should be a tight fit and need not be glued in.

I taped the tips in place so they can be removed and replaced with tip plates made from 1/32-1/16 ply or plastic. A 4-5 inch long spar could be used to join the tip and wing. This will be a future project mod.

Here is a sketch of the dihedral angle: