Posted by basslord1124 | Today @ 01:44 PM | 92 Views
I had been wanting a transmitter glove for a while so I could do some RC stuff in the winter. Well I finally obtained one here recently and even though I've only used it once, it has proven to be a great investment. I highly recommend it for anyone who wants to do some RCing in the cold temperatures. The one I got was made by a company called SENREAL and can be purchased on Amazon for under $20. Here is a link to the product and my video review:

SENREAL Warm Transmitter Glove Product Review (4 min 57 sec)

Posted by TMacFPV | Today @ 01:42 PM | 91 Views
Best VTX Yet? Third Video Transmitter Review in our Micro FPV Drone Parts-VTX Series. This one is the EWRF e708TM3 Pro (US Version), 800mW Max output Power! Full features review, ouput powers tested, and and side-by-side videos of fights at Min (25 mW) and Max (800 mW) output powers.
MICRO FPV DRONE PARTS-VTX EWRF e708TM3 Pro (12 min 16 sec)

Posted by JohnVH | Today @ 12:49 PM | 94 Views
Super windy flight on my Durafly T-28
WINDY FLIGHT! NEW Durafly T-28 Trojan Flying! Naval Aviation Centennial Edition 1100mm HobbyKing (4 min 51 sec)

Posted by GroundControlRC | Today @ 11:21 AM | 121 Views
Glue & Fly Series - F-22 Mini V3(B) - Maiden Flight!

Here is a link to the Video:

The "Glue & Fly Series" F-22 Mini V3B is Complete!
Now it's time to perform the Maiden Flight!
The Wind is shifting from NW to SW at 4-7mph with gust to 10mph.
The forecast Wind was supposed to be 3-5mph.

See you in the Air!

Build, Fly, Crash, Repair, Rinse & Repeat!

See Us On Youtube | Patreon | RCGroups | Facebook
Posted by sorrifpv | Today @ 06:12 AM | 209 Views
Hey guys!
This is my first vlog, let me know what you think!
I'm mostly using instagram but trying to start with youtube aswell!
Take a look at my IG:


My Mavic Air CRASHED! New FPV Freestyle Spot! VLOG (3 min 52 sec)

Posted by jmxp69 | Today @ 01:51 AM | 357 Views
One of my viewers asked me to put a video together showing my planes and how I store them. So.....I did. This system has worked quite well for me for a couple of years now. Hope it gives you some ideas on how to arrange planes in your hangar.

How To Store Radio Controlled Planes (4 min 31 sec)

Posted by Nobleman | Yesterday @ 08:23 PM | 495 Views
Hello friends! I am here with a whole different set up. I have your posts and have come to find out that they are completely different from mine. I enjoy building and flying rc helicopters. However, all my helicopters were made from materials I could find around me. Over here in Nigeria buying helicopter kits is like somehow not easy and besides I am still a student, but i have passion for building and flying. This made me build from things around me, my helis are all home-made. Here in my blog i will be explaining how I build rc helicopters from scratch. Feel free to ask me any question I will gladly answer them.
Posted by bnrusso | Yesterday @ 08:11 PM | 523 Views
Updated 2/14/2019

This is how to update firmware for 4in1 modules. I own 2 types at this time.
Since there are several modules and a few ways to update I will try to cover what I know and I hope you will help. My goal is to try to add whatever helps to have a step by step approach to do any type.
For reference I followed Pascal Langer's process. HERE:

T-12 4-in-1 V 1.2
Since I was first successful with this one I will start here.
The version should be determined first.
AFAIK there are currently 2 versions of the PC board. V1.1 and V1.2
I had to open the case to determine my PCB version.
If you don't have to remove the PCB coax connector then don't. These types of connectors can give out after a few disconnects and re-connects.
The V1.2 already has an active mini USB port and it can be updated via that port without any jumpers or soldering.
The only tool I used was a miniUSB to my windows 10 PC
Plugging into this port activates the Boot 0 and makes it ready to update.
My 4in1 showed up in my device manager as Silicon Labs CP210x USB to UART Bridge (Com6)
I was able to upload the new firmware with the module out of the TX

I started with the Pascal's Preparation step and followed every step
Install arduino ide, upgrade Java, follow the downloaded the multiprotocol source by clicking on the HERE in step i.........
When I got to the upload step this is whatTools looked like just before UPLOAD.
Name: tools before upload.JPG
Views: 5
Size: 26.6 KB

Upload finished with a...Continue Reading
Posted by Sammy70 | Yesterday @ 06:39 PM | 588 Views
The new Artizan V2 sport plane from Parkzone
Posted by starcad | Yesterday @ 06:17 PM | 2,026 Views
Let’s take a look at the ‘Mounting Type’ Tab, (Picture 1). Maybe this page should be referred to as the Mounting Orientation page. There are four possible ways to position the Receiver, Level, Bottom, Right Up, and Left Up. So far I’ve been lucky and all my planes have the Receiver mounted in the Level position. Pay attention to the receiver image. Note the Heading Direction and the UP and Right Arrows. One disadvantage is the servo headers will face toward the rear of the aircraft which may or may not present an issue in small aircraft. Select the orientation that best fits the need and ease of installation in your aircraft.

The next Tab is the ‘Gain Setting’( Picture 2), for the Gyro and the Accelerometer. This is probably the second most important page in the setup process. There are five sections to this page. Compensation Direction, Gyro Gain: Stabilize Mode, Angle Gain: Auto Level Mode, Angle Gain: Hover Mode and Angle Gain: Knife Edge Mode. Both Hove and Knife Edge are not applicable as this discussion only covers a simple 4-Channel model with Ailerons, Elevator, Throttle, Rudder configuration. Note the Red enclosed area on Picture 2 This will become very important after the Self Check is completed. More will be covered later after the receiver Calibration is completed.

Referring to Picture 3, note the Red enclosed area. This is where the Gyro Gain: Stabilizer Mode and the Angle Gain: Auto Level Mode are adjusted. Reading through all 543...Continue Reading
Posted by mundirman | Yesterday @ 06:47 AM | 811 Views
Late Post... 😊

Terbang Perdana dengan Pesawat Pertama (2 min 8 sec)

Posted by mundirman | Yesterday @ 06:37 AM | 826 Views
Posted by cvlex | Yesterday @ 02:23 AM | 2,454 Views
Yesterday morning I maidened my Opterra 1.2m as an electric sailplane: flying with the combination of power-on climbing and power-off gliding.

-Opterra 1.2m PNP kit with the stock motor and ESC
-Spektrum AR636 AS3X receiver
-Turnigy A-SPEC 3S2200mAh battery (196.5g)

AUW: 932.5g

Short pieces of plastic tube are glued at the C.G. mark of each wing panels (see the picture below). For checking C.G., I attach a piece of fishing line through the tubes and hang the airplane upside-down. This method is precise and makes it easy to check the C.G at flying field.

The AS3X flight stabilization system is activated only during the launching and the landing.

the first flight:
total flying time 5:10, power-on time total 4:23

Test flight. Cloudy, cold, 4 to 5m/s wind, no thermal assistance.

the second flight:
total flying time 16:00, power-on time total 5:02

Cloudy, cold, 4 to 5m/s wind, no thermal assistance.

the third flight:
total flying time 16:10, power-on time total 5:02

Cloudy, cold, 4 to 5m/s wind, no thermal assistance.

the fourth flight:
total flying time 31:10, power-on time total 5:03

I moved the C.G. slightly aft.

Fair, slightly warm, 3 to 4 m/s wind, with many thermal assistances.

My Opterra 1.2m flies so well. With some thermal assistances, over 20 minutes flight might be easy, IMHO.

Posted by --Oz-- | Feb 13, 2019 @ 10:40 PM | 1,029 Views
I bought the M9-R on sale for $34 a pair 6 months ago, I just couldn't pass them up. Even though I did self modded hall gimbals in Jul 2016 and still work perfect, around 20K flights on them.

I wanted to use the short throw on the thro and modify the other gimbal back to normal 60 degree throw, also they will match color. After collecting dust for 6 months, in a couple of minutes looking at it, bingo, simply add four 1.5mm washers under the red ALU plate (see picture), now it has the stock ~60 degree travel like the stock gimbal has.

I took some OTX raw data and photos to compare travel degrees of all four axis. Looks like the raw travel numbers are within reason of the other axis (AIL and YAW) movements (+/-~100). These numbers have a lot to do with how close the sensor is to the magnet (closer gives larger range).

I took some pictures to compare my 1.5mm washer mod to see how close it is to 60 degrees. Roughly its ~1.5 degrees less than the other two axis (AIL & YAW). Of course there is some error in my measurements. I am pretty happy with a first try with 1.5mm thick washer guess.

I did the heat shrink tubing over the thro drag bar and a dab of rc car diff grease, this thro gimbal now feel as smooth as anything I have felt. So far pretty happy with them.