Lob0426's blog View Details
Posted by Lob0426 | May 10, 2017 @ 06:56 PM | 3,622 Views
This will be my place to document my progress.

Items I have right now.
1. 2 sets 2212/1000Kv motors with ESC's props and prop adapters.
2. 5200ma turning graphing 10C battery
3. 1 KK2.15 board and 3 KK2.15
4. All kinds and sizes of servo's.
5. Dollar Tree Foam Board (DTFB)
6. A Flitetest model that might be used for the project, FT Spear.
7. All kinds of hardware pieces like linkages, horns and such.

I need to get weights on each of these for a guesstimate of finished weight. I think it will come in just over 2 pounds. The thrust from the motors is about 3.5 pounds. So it will not be snappy in hover. It appears it will average about 45MPH in Fast Forward Flight. Max Speed in hover will be about half that. Remember these are estimates. They do not take into account for the motors unloading during flight. I am projecting about 15A during hover.

I am looking at a flying "plank" wing with two motors. I am debating about motor tilt for hover control. I want all equipment to be mounted internal for streamlining. The wing will be built out of DTFB. I am looking at about a 30" span. The motors will be about 16" to 18" apart and 8" to 9" from centerline. Controls planes will be Elevons.

I will post pictures pretty soon

Some points;
1. Brushless motors have a "no load" current, just as all electric motors do. Not all manufacturers post what this minimum current is. So I have had to guesstimate it for my build. Most...Continue Reading
Posted by Lob0426 | Mar 10, 2016 @ 11:05 PM | 8,489 Views
A couple of motors that I think would be great on a light weight 450mm to 500mm Quad or Hex. The have the ESC built in with BLHeli firmware.

ZTW Black widow 2212 1000Kv
With 10 X 4.5 it would have the same performance as the cheap motors I am currently using on the Cheap Lightweight Autonomous build. There would be a weight savings due to the reduction in "WIRE" weight. You only have Power wires out to the motor plus the sensor wires. These are opto ESC's so you will have to have a BEC circuit in your wiring harness or a PDB.

ZTW Black widow 2216 900Kv
With these you would have to find a higher pitch 10" or 11" prop. Something like a 10 X 6 or an 11 X 5. Either would be a match for a larger build. I could, hopefully, run all the wires through the CF tubes. That would make a very clean professional looking build.

Price is the real holdup on these. They are on the expensive side for 221X motors with ESC's (I bought some with ESC's, motors, props and adapters for $66) , Also the 18A ESC might be a little light for the 221X's if you plan to lift weight on the quad.
Posted by Lob0426 | Feb 18, 2016 @ 11:13 PM | 5,007 Views
I am building a 450mm size Quad for autonomous flight. I wanted light So I chose a very light frame. The Turnigy Talon Carbon Fiber Quadcopter frame (not V2) is about as light as I have found. It is only about 9oz when assembled with no electronics. Not perfect as the frame is more of a + (plus) design than a X (EX) design. The battery will be canted across the frame.

I bought this frame more than 2 years ago, along with a couple of KK2.0 boards. All of these have just been gathering dust waiting for a project. So it was time to dust them off and get to work. The KK2.0 of course cannot work autonomously. I really only looked at the APM series and the CC3D Revolution. In the end I chose the Revolution. Price, size and weight were all considerations for the build. Found a set including Oplink, GPS, GPS mount and PDB on Banggood.

Motors/ESC, in keeping with cheap I went in search for some cheap motors swinging 10X4.7 props. I found some at Banggood, but they turned out to be permanently out of stock. Finally came up with some on Amazon. I also ended up with a set of props (one each CW/CCW) each to boot.

I already had a 200mw FPV system from RCTimer. That should be good enough for testing. I will probably move up to a 600mw system later. I also already have a Taranis X9D TX and LiPo chargers.

The specs on the motors/props show about 6.6lbs (3Kg) of thrust and the calculator shows the ready to fly frame at or under 32oz. So looks like a better than 3 to 1 power to weight ratio. Should have good flight performance and endurance!

Motor Cost $65.90

Flight Controller with GPS and Oplink cost $96.89

R/C Receiver cost $26.42

Carbon Fiber Frame cost $29.99

Possible Battery for project Cost $28.64

FPV TX and camera cost $26.55

Cost so far $275.53
Posted by Lob0426 | Jan 24, 2016 @ 09:50 PM | 6,286 Views
Ok, so we have built a Super Duet (Hobbyzone, Parkzone) We swapped out the 7x16mm stock motors for 8.5x20mm Hubsan 107D motors. We then installed Green Hubsan props.

We used a Friends Duet that has had a few major repairs. He had broke a wire loose from the rear of the left motor. No way to repair it.

I new PLA mount was printed;
The original motor mount was carefully cut loose with an exacto knife. The new motors were glued in the new mounts with a dab of Hot Glue. The new mount was Hot glued into the foam. The motors were soldered to the original motor wires.

All of the pins were cut out of the nacelles. The Nacelles were reattached with clear tape. We did not replace the foam spinners as one was missing. The foam spinners should not be hard to attach to the Hubsan props to make it look stock.

The Battery was pushed as far back as we could get it. The test was carried out with no landing gear. It was windy during the test. A stock 150ma Battery was used. At 50% throttle the plane almost hovered. We only tried full throttle for a few seconds. It is faster and has more yaw authority than the stock motors. Glide was much better than stock. It needs more flight testing in less wind to get a real handle on what the new motors do for it!

The stock MOSFET's seem to be holding up. The smaller wires from the control board may be throttling the motors out some. higher rated MOSFET's and better wiring out to the motors will probably improve motor performance.

The goal was to carry out the mod with as much staying stock or stock looking as possible.

Looking at upgrading battery to 180ma to 200ma with stock connector. there some other mods here in the forum for the Duet.
Posted by Lob0426 | Oct 02, 2015 @ 01:03 PM | 5,584 Views
I have been working on one of my 3D printers lately.

I was using a Raspberry Pi to remotely print with OctoPi, Octoprint server. I found that I spend most of my time at he printer, especially when starting a print job.

So I started looking for a small Windows Tablet. On Amazon I found a refurbished Hipstreet 8" 32GB Tablet for $56. It has a 1280 x 800 display that is very clear. It has an Atom Z3537F Quad core with 2GB memory. It came with Win8.1. I upgraded it to Win10. I also added a 32GB micro SD card. I set up a 3D printer profile, storage for this profile was pointed to the SD card.

I used the tablet to print out a mount to hold the tablet on the printer. Then I made a couple more pieces to make the tablet removable.

That's the good:

The charge port is a micro USB. It is also the only USB port. The USB micro to A adapter will not allow charging. I bought a micro to micro OTG cable. This allows the Tablet to talk to the printer. I cut midline into the OTG cable and added a connector into the power lines. I now have a power injector.

Because there is only the one USB it limits peripherals like mice and keyboards. The stables does have Bluetooth, but I was unable to find a Bluetooth mouse locally.

I had already modified the printer with a LM2596 set to 5V2. Plugging in the printer powers the Tablet.

Now everything is connected and working.

So how does it all work;
Cura 15.04 works real well. Large objects may need to be sliced on my desktop.

Repetier...Continue Reading
Posted by Lob0426 | Aug 04, 2015 @ 09:37 PM | 5,007 Views
I am starting to have parts piling up. 2 Micro MWC boards from Hobby king. 8mm motors for Hubsanx4 x3, 20 clear X4 props, 20 Green and Black X4 props, 10 NXP PMV31XN,215 6.3A MOSFETS, some Solder Paste.

Still waiting for the 3 in 1 Soldering station and a FTDI to programmer for the Micro MWC. I tried to program it with a Arduino nano. I could connect but without the DTR I could not get any Data.

I have also printed out a Flying Squirrel frame EDIT; it broke while I was trying to insert a motor. I need to find out why it is only 7.7mm inside the motor areas. I need to print it out at 100% infill. But what I really need to do is print it out of ABS instead of PLA.

I have a Micro FPV setup using a 8ch Boscam TX5823 (200mw supposedly) chip (6g) 5V version but it runs Fine on 3v7. I ordered some 5V pololu boards to use as filters, so I can run from the main battery. If I do not burn out the 5823. (EDIT: the 5823 is a 5V version so it should be good)

I am waiting on 1.25mm JST 2 pin connectors and wires sets to plug in the motors. I have decided to use JST for the power connectors. I have not decided on a battery yet. I need to see what the weight without battery is before I decide.

So I am well on my way into this project. I do not have much experience with the FTDI board necessary to setup and program the Micro MWC. So I will have to learn as I go.

Next steps.
1. Setup the MWC, make sure it is working.
2. Switch out the 2A MOSFETS for the new ones.
3. Print out the "...Continue Reading
Posted by Lob0426 | Jul 04, 2015 @ 01:46 AM | 4,566 Views
Well here is some advice to Multi-copter beginners.

I have worked with electrics for a couple of decades now. I started with a Goldberg Mirage 550electric plane. So I am used to working with electric motor/ESC and "midlin" soldering work.

The difference between a plane and a quad is 3 extra motors, but about ten times the headaches. To solder up a plane you usually need only to solder some power connectors and connectors between the ESC and motor. That equals about 7 solder joins unless you need to ad a BEC which is two more.

To build the Tarot 200 I have had to solder 48+ connections. That was the first set of ESC's I soldered on. Then I did not think those were working so I soldered in new ones. That was 8 more for each ESC. Not including de-soldering the first ESC's.

Now I find that the first set of ESC's may not have been at fault at all. When I shortened the motor wires I had loads of trouble with some of them "tinning", taking solder. After hours of playing around it appears it is "dry solder" joints, incomplete soldering, that is the real culprit.

Well and the dummy that did the soldering of course!

Contaminated wires are the problem. I am going to try a vinegar and salt (acid) solution to clean the offending wires. Then sodium bicarbonate is used to kill the acid. Then hopefully I will be able to tin the wires properly and get the Tarot flying.

If just one wire is bad you will not get tones from the motor. This makes it impossible to program the ESC unless you have a programming card.

So if your ESC's are not all making noise, then track down the bad wires and fix them!

So keep it simple and pay attention to detail, resist hurrying to get it into the air!
Posted by Lob0426 | Jun 14, 2015 @ 09:32 PM | 4,993 Views
Indy250 PLUS Quad-Copter from RCTimer.com


Completed quad-copter with FPV cameraCompleted quad-copter with FPV camera
The Indy250 PLUS and the ELGAE FOV127 FPV200-set with LT200, V700 and FPV RTU cable(32CH) RP-SMA were $204 to the door. I already had a Radio (Taranis), Receiver (FrSky D6FR6) and Battery (2200ma 3S).

This is a Tarot frame Clone. Carbon Fiber and PCB design. It has LED lights built under the PCB and they are very bright. There is a connector for 12V and 4 connectors for 5V on the PCB. It has been designed for FPV and gives you the connectors to make FPV easy to install. The Flight Controller is the CC3D and the ESC pins are soldered inverted under the board. These plug into connectors soldered onto the PCB. It is really clean. The Skids are robust but not pretty.

I Attempted to follow the Ground Control Wizard as Suggested by the RC Timer assembly Video. Most of the changes would not save. I ended up setting each item up manually (under each tab) then things started cooperating. The CC3D seems to fly pretty well. I increased the stability some by decreasing the settings sliders under stabilization. I have the ability to change this setting by a three position switch on my Radio. Most of this was setup in the Ground Control Software. My Radio is a Taranis 9X which was covered in the video. I used the OpenTX model wizard to setup for a quad copter. It just does not get much easier than this!

...Continue Reading