KristofferR's blog View Details
Posted by KristofferR | Dec 03, 2019 @ 04:09 PM | 4,388 Views
Slope soaring “the dump”. Top Model CZ Swish, Hobbyking Coyote / Ridge Runt & Multiplex Funglider.

Slope soaring the dump. Swish, Coyote & Funglider (4 min 0 sec)

Posted by KristofferR | Nov 30, 2019 @ 03:31 PM | 1,893 Views
My fb Dan has a Swish glider for the slope. It flies great. When one with a motor on surfaced on a local auction site I bid, won and drove a 3 hour roundtrip to pick it up. It was in very good condition.

The seller had a lot of common interests and some very nice RC airplanes. A nice detail was his own 3D-printed air inlets on the Swish.

At home, I put it on the bench to go through everything and found it well built and needing no particular attention. Per my usual habit I put the servos on a servo tester and let everything run for some time to ensure things were working fine. I de-soldered the T-connector and put an XT60 in - mainly because it's what I decided to use all around.

The prop seemed to be a bit big for the motor though. I looked at the motor, counted the poles, measured the outer dimensions and the unloaded kV - the motor it is really well encased and being screwed on from the inside it appears very hard to remove. After some Google work I concluded it was a Turnigy D2822 14 1450kV (or a rebrand).

The prop was unmarked but measured up to about 9x6 or 9x5 which is way too much. A quick test confirmed it with 20A through my current measuring clamp. That means about 220-230W through a motor limited to 160W. It got very very hot in just half minute.

I put a 7.5x4 CAM Carbon on (19/10 cm), the best I could find rummaging through my boxes. Got 12500 rpm and 11,8A with a big 3s (chosen for measurement to avoid potential voltage drop). This turned...Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Aug 27, 2019 @ 08:10 AM | 2,601 Views
Video from the second outing with the FunRay at Vallda Sandö.

I do love the ease of assembly with the connectors fixed in the wings.

Launch is extremely stable and the general feel is solid. It flies really well and retains energy in the headwind with ease.

The effect of the camber setting is very impressive, it climbs nicely with my hands off the sticks. So far I have been less successful getting a nice behavior with the reflex - speed is up but lift is compromised too much. Inverted looks promising, and roll rate is very good.

Messing up close to the slope from inverted and recovering way down low shows it is capable of flight right on the edge of stall as well. This is also indicated in the landings which have been easy on the slope. I find it challenging to land in dead air, even with full butterfly, it keeps the speed up anyway and glides for a long time.

Funray second slope flight, Vallda Sandö WSW 12m/s (3 min 23 sec)

Posted by KristofferR | Aug 17, 2019 @ 10:25 PM | 1,567 Views
Finally, my FunRay on the slope!

Multiplex Funray, slope maiden at Vallda Sandö Kalven. 11 m/s WSW (2 min 7 sec)

Posted by KristofferR | Jul 25, 2019 @ 02:27 AM | 4,292 Views
Short recap:

FunRay bought 2017. Spent years on a shelf. Build start. Leading edges wrong in kit, fixed swiftly by Swedish distributors Autopartner.
One minor hitch, wings would not seat perfect, wing joiner bottomed out. 2mm foam removed. All good.
Otherwise easily assembled.
I taped all edges for aerodynamic efficiency.

Turnigy SK3 3640 1050
ZTE Mantis 65A
2000 mAh 3s (needs bigger batt)
EMax servos
MPX RX-9 and Cockpit SX

Weight 1772 g
Static 45A measured (battery limits this)
2600g thrust calculated

It climbs vertical.
It is glides quite fast and retains energy well.
Roll rate is very good ( ailerons and mixed flaps)
CG 3-4mm behind the dots still give very faint positive stability, but touchy elevator. I will go to the dots.
Responsive! I could not handle high dual rates.
Excellent glide, in reflex and camber too.
Stall, drops a wing and recovers after ... perhaps 6-8 m.
Despite butterfly, surprisingly reluctant to come down.
No foam feeling. Just sort of solid.

I think it will be great on the slope.
Posted by KristofferR | Jul 25, 2019 @ 02:06 AM | 3,882 Views
It turned out pretty well. The Tamiya TS-19 metallic blue is really good looking.

I put matte clear paint on the big square logo, polished the aluminum panels and then put matte clear on them too and wrote some text on them.

I still would have wanted to do the text for the aluminum panels better, but since I’m not keeping this TX it is better to let the new owner do it.

My personal setup would be using the throttle cut free mixer trick and I might swap the flap/spoiler cables like Ville. Also an extended neck strap arm to get the balance right.

A pro approach would be to use some stickers or print out something nice.
Posted by KristofferR | Jul 20, 2019 @ 04:37 PM | 3,663 Views
A few weeks ago, I absent-mindedly bid on a Cockpit SX on a local auction site.
What I really wanted was the receiver, but I thought my bid would be too low and forgot about it.

To my surprise I won the auction and got the receiver and transmitter in the mail.

The transmitter was truly hideous. The pics did show it, but I had not been looking at them close enough. The gray surface was worn down, the whole thing dirty and gross.

Hmm. I decided to dismantle and to my disappointment, almost all the plastic pins were broken inside. I threw the parts in a box.

A week later I decided to look at it again and figured there was little to lose by trying to repair it.

After serious cleaning a I painted the front with Tamiya TS-19 metallic blue (white primer underneath) glued the little pins back as best as I could and put the thing back together.

The glue has no chance holding the screws so I had to glue some parts in place and use two pieces of balsa to support the switch board for the toggle wheel and trim buttons.

I also realise how much better my new Cockpit is. So this will be sold when I’m done!
Posted by KristofferR | Jul 08, 2019 @ 02:43 AM | 4,495 Views
Normally, I tend to modify the stock decals on my kits, but I really like the looks of the FunRay decals.

Also, I hope the design is thought out and will be good for visibility.

The sheet is of xcellent quality and easy to apply, even the big ones on the wings went on smoothly.

Soon ready for maiden flight
Posted by KristofferR | Jul 07, 2019 @ 12:30 AM | 4,536 Views
The FunRay build continues.

I hit a stop when the kit contained two sets of left (or right?) leading edges for the wing. The seller RCFlight and main importer Autopartner solved it quickly. (My kit is an early batch and it spent over a year on a shelf in my closet!)

Most of the assembly is straightforward and aided by the excellent instructions.
I noticed one exception and that was when assembling the plane. The wings would not go all the way in. Apparently the protruding wing joiners bottomed out in the EPP foam. I measured three times and then removed 3-4 mm of foam and that was it.

The most time was spent on the cabling, the wings are designed for MPX M6 connectors and I made my own cables which required 24 soldering points...

Tip: Make sure the connectors to the tail servos are secured somehow. I accidentally pulled my rudder cable out while programming the TX and it took about 45 minutes to sort it!
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 21, 2019 @ 01:53 AM | 4,482 Views
During the last slope visit with the Fox I had some serious problems seeing the planes attitude. In the sun there was no problem but again a grey overcast sky it was tricky.

The paint job is very striking but not optimal for visibility. In particular the small chess square pattern on the wings underside looks great up close but from a distance it becomes just a slight red/pink colour. The wingtips are orange and red on the upper side and they look the same when the distance increases.

Almost any pattern that’s not extremely clear becomes a camouflage when the distance increases and I decided to simplify the graphics.

The chess pattern stickers was removed from the bottom and I added two large black stripes. On the top I took away the black letters and increased the orange area on the wingtips and elevator.

Finally I glued some medium grit sandpaper to the fuselage sides to help with the launching. It’s really difficult to hold the big fuselage in one hand on the slope!

Also, some improvised servo covers and some tidying up of the canopy.
Posted by KristofferR | Jun 21, 2019 @ 01:38 AM | 4,475 Views
I always had a soft spot for the Ridge Runt, it’s a cute plane. And now a used Coyote ended up on my building board!

There was a 380 brush motor installed , I removed it and embarked on making a new nose cone and fitting a canopy from a Graupner Terry.

Before starting the finish work I threw it a few times and it flew well. To balance CG I had to put a 1200 NiMH pack up front!

The remedy is on - moving the elevator servo forward of the CG to avoid heavy ballasting and also cutting every gram off the tail, currently removed 5-6 grams in total.

I hope it will be fun on the slopes but my expectations are not high with the flat bottom wind profile.
Posted by KristofferR | Apr 09, 2019 @ 02:52 PM | 2,363 Views
The kit has been warming a shelf for many months. I got started a few days ago,

Initial impressions of the build is slightly daunting, partly due to the very informative manual detailing every step and the somewhat unique rear servo installation. My Emax ES08MA servos required some slight cutting of both the plastic and fuse Elapor to fit.

Progress went fine otherwise.

Sorting the wing connectors took a while, I made my own from M6 connectors, cables and servo connectors. There is a kit available from MPX, 1-00112 and it’s pretty decent value at €20-ish.

Most difficult part was putting the fuse halves together. I used Zacki CA and UHU Por. With Por there is some time to adjust everything.

There is one mistake you could avoid: The square carbon bar is supposed to go 18mm into the motor mount and fixed with CA. Pushing it in, the glue set instantly and I tried to adjust but overcoming the glue grip I had the bar sliding in and out until it ended att 22mm and refused to move.

A trick I always use building MPX is to scratch up the surfaces that are glued; be it Elapor or plastic. A knife and a coarse file does it. In particular I do this to the control horns. They have fallen off on MPX RR models but never from any of my builds.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 30, 2019 @ 07:01 PM | 2,525 Views
It took a while to get there, it has been wind and rain or sun and doldrums or just plain storm level winds.

We had five planes between us; FMS Mimimoa, MPXFunglider, Vladimir Elf, Hacked Vagabond XL and a TopModel Swish.

The damp air, 7 deg C and the wind was brutal and somewhat choppy.

The Vagabond was definitely the star of today, loving it up close and appeared less agitated by the choppy wind.

The Elf did good and is crazy fast when necessary but it was very hard sometimes to ascertain its direction. See- through wings looks really good but I had several spinning ballerina moments....
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 25, 2019 @ 05:55 AM | 2,438 Views
Overhaul time!

Complete dismantle. Plastics went in a bucket and then boiling water and green soap. After a few repeats, a hot cycle in the dishwasher.

Screws, bearings and shafts have been “swimming” in WD40 for cleaning.

With everything clean and nice it’s time
to print the exploded views from the Traxxas website and start reassembling.

I intend to use a metal gear servo so I took apart the stock 2055 servos, cleaned and greased them up and let them sit with the servo tester for an hour before putting them on local eBay.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 19, 2019 @ 02:17 AM | 2,849 Views
Progress has been somewhat erratic.

After a lot of googling and eBay searching I found a local store, and they had ONE motor mount left. Since I already realised that a bent aluminium plate would not be sufficient - the Revo chassis tab can easily be flexed by hand and any motor mount that does not use the “arms” connected to the central part will move and vary the mesh - I decided to buy one.

Now I have embarked on a motor/ESC combo search. A Hobbywing EZRun combo is currently on top, but the $150 is slightly hard to stomach for this budget ride. But it is also an LHS option which IMHO could be more valuable than cutting $20 off the price. Until I press buy what remains is just classic overhaul action.

Picture show diffs being torn down.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 09, 2019 @ 09:34 AM | 4,499 Views
The Revo is getting an electric powertrain.

After looking at various motor mounts for inspiration I put that to rest and decided to open the gearbox.

It is a two speed + reverse with freewheel.

First gear has a tiny freewheel with cams that tighten on the shaft. The second gear uses a freewheel with a spring-loaded arm that pops out due to centrifugal force and grips the cog.

The first gear is no longer necessary, as the low speed torque from the intended electric motor should be way more than anything the 2.5 nitro can put out.

Therefore I removed first gear entirely, and bolted up the freewheel to the second gear. Three notches were cut with a hacksaw and Dremel.

The reverse gear was removed too. I drilled out and bolted the drum to the primary gear - forward gear always. Then removed everything else. There is a notable lash in the stock solution, probably to allow reverse to engage without a synchronised drum.

With everything tight, the electric motor should be able to both accelerate and brake the car. The mechanical brake was removed too....Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 04, 2019 @ 11:56 PM | 3,317 Views
Like the previous HBX, I was given this old nitro Revo.

After several cleanups of the car, I tried to wake the electronics. Two servos were stuck, so I took them all apart and cleaned and greased them up, then did a light overhaul of the rest of the car but I never got around to actually running the engine and the car has been warming the shelf.

I even tried to sell it but offers in the $50 region just made me tired. Eventually I realised I did not want to run nitro. I left that on my RC aircraft 20 years ago.

This weekend I decided to rip out the glow engine parts and embark on an electric conversion.
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 13, 2019 @ 11:59 AM | 7,727 Views
Car time again!

This was given to me by a relative of my ex wife. It spent time collecting dust on the shelf, since I did not know what to do with it and did not have the Super Motivation (pun) to use it myself. Eventually, it turned out that my cousin wanted an RC for his young kid. YAY! Good reason to go ahead.

As usual, I went over the car, cleaned it, checked for damage, adjusted things and then tried it. With some fresh batteries and some cleaning, it worked, but pretty badly. I though the batteries were the problem but after lots of experimenting including some LiPO attempts it turned out that the LM-406FB ESC just did not want to work - sometimes it would, but it would just drop and stutter during load. I tried different motor, servo, RX, batteries and another ESC and it was always the original ESC that refused to work. I took it apart to look for broken solders or faults but did not find anything and then it died completely on me. In went a Tamiya TBLE-02 and suddenly the car went muuuuch better.

Among other things I did was to adjust the servo saver which had a horrible slop in the neutral position, which made it impossible to drive straight. After that just general work like tightening screws, cleaning etc. The original plate that held the ESC was cut and glued to make a splash-proof ESC room in the chassis.

And, the chassis. The car is surprisingly nice to drive - it is after all a close (carbon?) copy of a Tamiya TL01. The only thing giving away the cheap...Continue Reading
Posted by KristofferR | Dec 30, 2018 @ 01:44 AM | 6,827 Views
Not really RC, this. Still fun and very mechanical. It’s a bit like working on old servos ...

After restoring my cousins little Märklin locomotive with good success another FOUR landed on my desk.

There is not much to these little items - knocking out the pins holding the wheels gears and then the usual stuff like cleaning gears (filing the teeth, rubbing etc to get them perfectly smooth) polishing the commutator, soldering up the cables etc.

The electromechanical direction switch relay is probably the most intricate part.
I used some LiPO batteries in series to set it up....

The old track built in 1958 still works fine. Looking forward to locomotion in 2019.
Posted by KristofferR | Aug 25, 2018 @ 02:04 PM | 7,639 Views
This is me driving and filming my 1:10 Traxxas Summit up a local clifftop. It is very steep, perilous to walk up when wet and plain difficult in the dry. The Summit is a peculiar car. The individual suspension, lockable diffs and the hi/lo gears gives a range of use that is matched by few other RC:s. It is basically good at most things but not really the best at anything. The fantastic suspension articulation sometimes makes it difficult to find terrain that really challenges the car. I run my completely stock and use it as a trail truck and hiking companion. The only negative thing is that it is heavy to carry when the batteries are depleted. Bring an extra set to make it all the way!

Camera, driving, editing: Kristoffer
Location: Billdal, Sweden
Equipment: Traxxas Summit, Turnigy2000
Edited in Wondershare Filmora

Traxxas Summit 1:10 crawling and climbing (3 min 58 sec)