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Posted by Quad808 | Jul 03, 2017 @ 01:59 PM | 391,406 Views
last edit 7/25/2020
Well...if you are here, you might be thinking....geez...does this guy ever update this info? Don't worry...it's still all relevant, so read on!

I will attempt to keep this up to date (time permitting) with the latest how to's and links for you to get the most out of your DJI craft. Tips and parameter settings will be added to the end of this blog entry.

Ok, before you dive deep down the DJI rabbit hole, go here: https://drone-hacks.com/ I have joined a great team that strives to automate this process and is constantly bringing new hacks to the drone community!! Our long term goals are not only to support all DJI models, but also to support other manufactures of drones as well, such as Autel, and Fimi drones! This app is easy to use, easy to understand what it can and can't do, and even has a WIZARD MODE!! This wizard mode will guide you in what we recommend is best for your drone. Drone-Hacks can do much more than what I have written in this blog. Currently Drone-Hacks can downgrade your firmware without having to unlock it, if it has been downgrade locked by DJI. (all except for the Mavic Pro 2 for now...that one is locked down pretty tightly), with Drone-Hacks you can disable NFZ enforcement and disable height limits with Custom Flight Controller on the most recent firmware for many drones. This is the way to go if you ask me. Don't take the chance to do this manually....it takes a lot of time and effort, and Drone-Hacks can do this...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Jan 17, 2017 @ 11:01 PM | 230,188 Views
This is just a hex to play around with, will try to put some retracts on it, but won't be putting a video camera, will do FPV though.
Its a H500 frame, (remember the HK $1 frame sale? I picked up 2) I changed out the arms to these:

I already had them from a previous 550 that I crashed. Two green in front, two blue on the sides and red on back. The arms are excellent, and are slightly longer than standard 450-550 arms, and are up-swept. And they are extremely rigid. There is an aluminum tube in the middle of the plastic. I highly recommend these arms for replacements. With the up-swept arms the motors tilt into the middle of the hex, allowing you to come straight down extremely fast, without fear of VRS. After manually tuning today, I basically took it up about 100', and dropped the throttle in PosHold to almost nothing to watch the stability and it came down like a rock, but didn't wobble. I set the Speed Dn setting to 200 and it didn't flinch in an RTL, with breezy conditions.

The Pix 2.4.8 sits on Zeal on top of an anti-vibration plate, and the vibrations are super low because of it. I am using the Air Gear set of motors, (T-Motor Air2213 920KV) on 4S. I tried using the props that came with the Air Gear 350 set, but they are a bear to tune with, so I swapped them out for Dji props, and this turned into a different Hex. Quieter than with the T-Motor props, and much more stable. It was easy to tune and this thing screams with speed, hover amps is around 22A. I stopped flying at around 3.6v per cell, and that was close to 30 minutes of not just hover in place flying. I will do a hover test later to see how long this can hover on a MS 5200 4S batt.
Posted by Quad808 | Oct 05, 2016 @ 11:07 PM | 231,030 Views
Once I decided to get a bluetooth module for APM/Pix I connected it up, and spent the next several hours trying to get it to work. This will save you all the hassle that I went through. It's actually quite easy to do, IF you follow the advice below...

I have a bluetooth module on all my UAVs so far, 4 and counting..
In order to connect to MP, you must pair with Windows first, find out the port# and change the speed to 57600, then change MP to that port#, change the speed to 57600 and hope it connects. (I bet it won't on first try...read on)

Here is what you do:
Make sure it is paired to Windows. Here's how.
Check to make sure Bluetooth is enabled in Windows.
Power up the UAV with the Lipo, NOT usb
Check to see if the module has power, and it is connected correctly. I am going to assume it is - if you got this far. (Tx and Rx - however if you are backwards, windows doesn't care, only on Pix and APM it will matter.)
Check the bluetooth devices in Windows, it will show up as autopilot. Pair it. Usually 1234 is the code.
Go to Devices and Printers. Find the paired autopilot and go to properties and look what port it is using. (Hardware tab) You must also go to the Services tab and make sure Serial port (SPP) 'Dev B' is checked. This will also have the port #.
Go to Device manager-->Ports and go to the properties of the port# above that autopilot is using. There will be two ports, but you only need to be concerned with the port that shows under the...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 24, 2016 @ 06:22 PM | 234,689 Views
This is sort of a rant, but sort of not. I have been through a load of props. Maybe I should say loads. Lets just say...lots, and lots.
Carbon mix
Cheap and pricey.
8" all the way to 18".
HK Quanum
HQ Prop
no-name, generic (cheap)
no-name, generic CF
My favorite prop has been (up to now) the HQ Prop, carbon mix 1045's in the non-self-tightening category. Excellent all around prop. Great lift, and a little more give in flying than CF props. Very well balanced, right out of the package. Along with the Tarot CF 13" props - also very well balanced out of the package.
Well...I think there is a new winner in town.
Lets just say that I don't like DJI, since they are sort of like Apple in the way they try and control their customers, and lock them into their business. Brilliant really, but costly to the consumer of their products - since it is, for the most part, proprietary.
I tried to hold off as long as I could from purchasing any DJI products. Yah, I read about the DJI Phantom 3 Part no.9, 9450 props. Then I read about them some more, and more, and read about how great they were on the CX-20, but I continued to purchase other props - and was completely happy. Or so I thought. (ignorance is bliss, as they say)
Until I did two things...bought a Nova Pro, and built the HK X666 with t-motor 2213-920kv motors. (Air-gear 350 set...great set btw) They are in a set of 4 and include self-tightening props, along with ESC'...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 13, 2016 @ 10:18 PM | 231,184 Views
I had my HK650X6 hex out over the weekend...was doing some battery/PM calibration and after several short flights during testing, just about to bring it in, it all of the sudden gained a bit in altitude, then veered to the left into the cement from about 10feet up. Smacked right on the left motor, dented the bell pretty good, ruining it, broke the motor mount etc. All the props were fine, but it's time to change out this frame. Its too small. This is the one with the Tiny2 that I posted videos from on my youtube channel. Super steady video.
Z1 Tiny2 Solid as a ROCK!! AMAZING!! (6 min 48 sec)

This new frame is an 850, so it's pretty big. My other new Hex is an 680UC frame from HK, and that frame is super nice. All CF, retracts - extended camera mount and it flies great. I changed the configuration to Hexa x instead of Hexa +. Changing it to the X configuration, I lost the umbrella folding, and this new one has it, so it should save a whole lotta space when stored. It's on the way. RC_Danny is doing the same, so I know he will help me with building if I need it. He is great at designing 3D printed parts if we need them. Can't wait. I have 2 motor types I want to try, both can use up to 6S, so they leave room for that if need be...I will be flying at 4S.
1. 5008 335kv with 18" CF props(hope they fit) or 15" CF Props
2. 4108 700kv with 15" CF props or 13" CF props

AUW on my 680UC with 10k battery is 3463g fully loaded, bare on HK site is 851g with retracts, and the 850 frame is 1210g, so theoretically the AUW on this new frame would be 3823g and it should be just fine with load capacity to spare. On another note...it is easier for me to ship from HK 5200 4s Multistars than 10k batteries, so I will be running some in parallel for 10.4k. Just a tad heavier than a single 10k battery.
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 09, 2016 @ 03:25 PM | 230,484 Views
Now this can’t be any easier. Remember how hard it was to program the Taranis in the beginning? Well…all that is done. Let’s say you are building a new Quad, and already have a quad programmed into the Taranis. Just copy the existing model, rename it for the new quad, bind the new Rx to the Taranis, and as long as you have setup it up like the existing model you copied – all done! – Setup meaning, same extra channels used, same flight modes in Mission Planner etc. Just make sure to calibrate your Taranis when doing calibrations in Mission Planner since you are bound to a new Rx.
Let’s say that you are building a Hex and you only have a Quad programmed into the Taranis. Guess what. Same thing as above. The Taranis doesn’t know what kind of frame you have or how many motors. The programming in the FC takes care of that. As long as you are using Arducopter firmware for your models, the Taranis makes it simple to add new craft. I keep all my flight modes the same on all my craft…it just makes it easier, as well as any extra channels I use for lights, or gimbal controls. All the switches are assigned the same as well, so for my setups it’s extremely easy to add models. Even if you copy a decked out model like my 680UC…landing gear on a channel, lights, gimbal controls all on extra channels…you could copy this model to a new one and use it right away without making any changes. The extra switches programmed in the Taranis, just won’t do anything, since you don’t have anything connected to them. You may get voice prompts tied to a switch that does nothing, but if you are in a hurry to get to testing, this works without any tweaking.
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 09, 2016 @ 02:45 PM | 231,435 Views
I have now moved to all PixHawk 2.4.8 FC’s on all my craft, except for the Nova Pro. I think I will probably leave that one stock on APM. My latest project was to move my 650X6 to PixHawk and I did that last night. It is much easier than you might think. Along with the Taranis, it’s actually a piece of cake. Here is what you do:

1. Change the connector to Pix from APM for the GPS
2. Change the connector to Pix from APM for the telem port (Scotty Board)
3. Check the PM power connector – it uses the same connector
4. Swap out the SBUS to CPPM connector for a servo cable to go from SBUS on the X8R to RC on the Pix. It uses SBUS natively
5. Swap the motor connections to the Pix, pay attention to the wiring…its opposite on the Pix. From top to bottom Neg-Pos-Signal

For #3 I had removed the + and – wires from the PM connection, so that it was only monitoring voltage data. On the APM I had wired in a UBEC to the input side of the APM to provide power instead of the PM output. I then wired in the + and – of the UBEC into the PM connection so that the Pix would get power from the UBEC using the PM connector. See picture.

Ok, all that is done. Easy so far and shouldn’t take long. I had saved the APM params before the swap, and also took a screen shot of the APM PID settings. After flashing the Pix with 3.3 Hexa, I checked the APM PID settings, flight modes and various common settings and changed them to match what was previously on the APM. I also added a...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 06, 2016 @ 06:22 PM | 230,889 Views
During the last HK flash sale, they had frames for $1, so I picked up a couple. One of them was the Z700 V2 - pretty big frame for a Quad, nylon arms. There was some discussion on too much arm flex, so I ordered some carbon tubes to stiffen the arms some to stop the flexing. My idea was to use Quanum MT 5008 335KV motors, with large CF props, 15" to make a long flying-time Quad. The motors were way too big, and there was flex(twist) in the motor mounts when flying. Changed motors to Quanum MT 4108 700kv's which were better but way too much twisting on the motor mounts, causing massive vibration. So much vibration that 2x a motor disconnected a bullet connector while I was testing, and 2 crashes. The 2nd crash chipped a CF prop, and broke 2 landing gear legs. (F550 style landing legs) Needless to say...that frame is in the trash. What a colossal waste of time. Way too much flex with the arms made out of the nylon type 450/550 material. Do not buy this frame. Maybe it would work with much smaller motors, but with a span of 700mm, it should be able to swing large props with big motors.

Now on to the EXCELLENT frame, the X666 quad frame. This frame is the most stable quad frame I have ever put together. Super light, super rigid (metal arms, and it folds length ways. Downside? Stupid landing gear...(if you can call it that) and tiny middle plate to fit all the electronics. Here is what I have on it:
Pixhawk 2.4.8
X8R + Scotty Board
These...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Sep 02, 2016 @ 07:45 PM | 233,001 Views
I now have 3 of these gimbals - 2 from HobbyKing on a flash sale early on, when not too many of these were sold, so not a lot was known about them at the time. $79ea. Now that was a great deal.
Here are links to 2 videos I have done with them:
Z1-Tiny2 3-axis gimbal testing on HK 650X6 Hex Frame (7 min 29 sec)
Z1 Tiny2 Solid as a ROCK!! AMAZING!! (6 min 48 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | Aug 25, 2016 @ 02:46 PM | 235,017 Views
VCC - what is that?? It is just about the most critical, or the most critical thing on your multi-rotor. This is the voltage that feeds your flight controller, and it needs to be within a certain margin of fluctuation. <.03v with a maximum of 5.7v. http://ardupilot.org/copter/docs/com...e-pixhawk.html
Optimum would be a steady 5v supply. Anything more than a .03 fluctuation will lead to trouble. You can find out your VCC a couple of ways...in MP you can do an Auto Analysis and look at the results for the VCC...if MP comes back with Good...no worries. You can get more detail by loading a log into APM log file Analiser, which I use all the time. Go here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2151318

I was flying my latest build...HobbyKing 680UC Hex copter and was testing a new 16k Multistar battery for flight times. At about 20 minutes in, the Hex all of the sudden lost power from about 4 feet up, and hit the ground, landing on the Gimbal and camera. No damage to the frame, or props, but bent the gimbal. In checking the logs, it showed greater fluctuation than .03v in the VCC input. This was using the installed PM, so I went in and clipped the + and #5 ground wire of the PM and connected them to the output of a HobbyWing UBEC, so no power is being supplied by the crappy PM, only voltage data. I have found the HobbyWing UBEC's incredibly reliable for constant 5v power, and they are on all my other craft. Flew another 16k battery for testing and this is the results. Before and after screen shots. After installing the UBEC, the hex preformed flawlessly.
Watch your VCC and take heed if it is out of spec. On all my Pixhawks I power with redundant power...from the PM and from another UBEC to the servo rail. If the PM power dips, the Pix picks up volts from the servo rail.
Posted by Quad808 | Jun 19, 2016 @ 05:07 PM | 230,781 Views
It really is very, very difficult.

OK, no it isn't at ALL!! This is so easy to do, its dumb not to do this. It requires removing 1 already connected wire and then getting a new wire and connecting both ends...one goes to the FC, the other goes to the RX....basically you are connecting a wire from #-3 on the RX to 8 Aux4 on the FC. (left picture)(currently #-3 RX goes to the bottom of the quad for Aux2 connection, #8 Aux4 FC is not connected to anything)
Here is a quick and easy guide to using autotune with the stock TX:

1) Fabricate a 1 pin servo wire. You can do one of the following:
A) Buy a JR plug, in the bag you get a JR plastic plug housing, and some metal pin
connectors. Take a wire and crimp + heatshrink one of the connectors to each
end of the wire. (I grabbed one from a PC case that I had)
B) Take a 3-wire servo connector (female to female), carefully crack open the
plugs at both ends of the wire with some pliers and extract one of the wires with the metal connectors still attached to it.

2) Open up your Nova / Cx-20

3) Disconnect the 3 wire servo plug from the channel labelled "-1-2-3" on the stock RX (this is the one for the gimbal controls). Remove the #-3 wire from the 3 wire connector.

4) Connect your 1 pin servo wire to the signal pin of channel "-3" on the RX, or slide it into the 3 wire connector. Put the 3 wire connector back on the RX pins.

5) Connect the other end of the 1 pin servo wire to the free Signal pin...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 25, 2016 @ 06:47 PM | 231,391 Views
Do you use one of these on your quad? What do you have it set to alarm at? Did you ever wonder why it goes off so early, when you put the battery on the charger and find out that there is lots more flying time left on the battery??

Have you ever checked them for accuracy??

I never did, until today. I checked about 5 of them against my volt meter and against the lipo battery charger itself. The volt meter and charger read them the same....EVERY SINGLE ALARM I CHECKED WAS WRONG!! They all read the first cell low by .03 and others had the 3rd or 4th cell high. Since these alarms only go off on the lowest cell, I am more concerned about the lowest cell reading. Normally I set these alarms on all my craft at 3.5v, but realized that I am constantly coming in early with mAh to spare (could be a couple of minutes of flying time!!) I also monitor the total mAh via the scottyboard on my taranis, and usually trust this more than the alarm.

I now have set all my alarms to 3.4, and I think that will be fine. Once it goes off, I will know for sure to stop flying ASAP.
Posted by Quad808 | May 23, 2016 @ 03:00 PM | 231,060 Views
You know how you really want to fly, but something tells you not to?
well...listen to that voice of reason, I didn't and crashed, but luckily no damage.

On my HK650X6 hex frame -

I swapped out the motors from SS 2212-980's with 1045 props to the SS 3508-700's and put on 1245 HQprops. 4S.
Did a very short flight before this weekend and it flew fine, but I didn't have time to fully test it out, or tune it properly. (1245 props)
Carbon Fiber Tarot 1355 props for my new 680UC hex build arrived from banggood, and they just fit on the HK650X6, (I thought only 12" would fit) so I just had to put them on. *just a note, the Tarot props came almost perfectly balanced out of the package, but I digress*
Super windy this past Saturday, but I figured I would try them out and just do a low hover. (I didn't listen to myself telling me this was a bad idea due to the windy conditions) Lifted off very, very easily - was doing fine, then gusty wind started the Hex swinging(in close quarters)...I am not used to the performance of the motors, and it isn't tuned properly yet, so the controls were lazy...hex rolls violently to the left, gusty wind hits it again and it starts coming at me. All I could see was the carbon fiber spinning knives coming at my face. Jammed the controls to pitch forward, tried to save it...(total chaos...very scary) couldn't - side ways into the ground where two props dug in up to the hub and held the hex solid.

That could have been my skin.

No damage to the props, or the frame. Lucky. I didn't fly the rest of the weekend since it is still gusty windy. This could have gone very badly.
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:36 PM | 231,347 Views
Calibrating for level is very, very critical to the FC. You need to show the FC what level is really in the air. The only way to do this is to level the motors in relation to each other using a level and a level surface. Do not trust that having your quad on the landing gear means your motors are actually level to each other. I do this procedure on all my craft.


Originally Posted by WhiffleX View Post
I see, so it's basically a method for leveling the flight controller during calibration. I might want to try something like that because I fairly crudely calibrated mine. Is the reason for the bottles the fact that the legs may not be entirely the same length?
LOL...beer bottles. Me. It was something I had on hand that made sense to use. They fit directly under the motors...I used this for both my F450 and CX-20. It works wonders. No more Auto Trims needed, if you do this correctly/accurately. Make sure you use a level, and the bottles are easy to shim up if needed.

I only take credit for using beer bottles. Empty I may add...
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:31 PM | 231,073 Views
Originally Posted by UltiFix View Post
THR_MID set at 600 for all of these flights, also using 9444 DJI self tigthening props form valuehobby.
1. THR_ACCEL_IMAX set at 500, originally was 1000
Details: Amazing. But when I swung my controller it moved, must have been from the sticks moving or something? But this was a HUGE improvemt from before

2. Changed INS_MPU6K_FILTER from 0 to 20 (Changed THR_ACCEL_IMAX back to 1000)
Details:SUPER AMAZING, did do some moving but corrected itself. Tried swinging my controller around again and it moved the throttle stick, must be what happend in flight 1?

3. THR_ACCEL_IMAX at 500 was 1000 and INS_MPU6K_FILTER at 20 was 0
Details:Wow, my quad in gps mode is COMPLETELY different now. It's great.

Quad808, THANK YOU
Between this and moving and shielding my gps its alot better.

When I originally got my quad the gps was great! Then I updated the firmware... Lost the original stuff and its never been the same since... But now its great!
Thanks again!

EDIT: On flight 3 I should say it also did a bit of moving but it was still a lot better than before, checking logs to see what my Nsats were and my HDOP. Will upload log in a minute
Glad to help because this will help others as well. So to sum it up...do you think it was the #1 - change from 1000 to 500? Or combination of #1 and #2?
If you change both...500 and 20 and leave it...best combination?? I am really interested in #2...the INS_MPU6K_FILTER. I have read that that from the 2 version of the code to 3, this value was defaulted to 0, but should be at 20. This change to 20 seems to improve the hold of the quad. If you look at MP it says right there that it should be 20, but if anyone upgrades it defaults to 0. I am leaving mine on 20 and 500 unless I am told or shown otherwise.
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:24 PM | 230,934 Views

They arrived this morning from Banggood, who guarentees that they only sell originals. Currently on the quad are counterfeits. What arrived from Banggood are genuine originals. Here are some pictures and ways to tell for sure, so that you don't get taken. I will say that the counterfeits do work well, but will see once I swap them out, how well they were actually working.
1. The boxes are a little different. Printing is a little different, but pretty close and hard to tell, unless you have them side by side like I did.
2. Fakes come packaged in ziplock bags. Originals come in sealed bags. I figured that the originals "could" arrive in ziplock bags, if the shipper tested them. NOPE.
3. Fakes come with all black hardware, again in ziplock bags. No silver screws. Originals come with silver screws.
4. Printing on motors...originals are more vibrant.
5. Machining on bottom of motor. Originals are well machined, no circular marks - clip on shaft is different.
6. Windings. HUGE difference. Originals are very well done. Fakes, not so much.
Be careful where you purchase them and at what cost. Make sure you can return them if they are fakes. Here are some pictures to check out for reference: (last 2 pictures are fakes for comparison.)
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:21 PM | 230,876 Views
replace Capacitors on the CX/Nova ESC's:

Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:19 PM | 233,356 Views
Guys...I need to vent.
I must like doing things the very hard way, so I hope this will help anyone else, and stop them from doing the same thing.

TUNING YOUR PIDS (revisited)

Ok, so I like Autotune. It makes the process painless, and you can avoid the manual tuning. (or so I thought...read on)

Ran autotune on my Hex with 3S, then once I shifted to 4S, ran it again, which changed the PIDS dramatically lower. I ran Autotune about 4 times, but the Hex did not seem to be "locked" in.
So....I have spent HOURS on PIDS. adjust this...then fly, re-adjust then fly and so on, and so on. NEVER GOT IT CORRECT.
I was doing this to avoid having to manually tune with my tx on chnl 6. I have a Taranis, but I am pretty sure you can do the same thing on the CX/Quanum Tx.

I tuned the Hex the best it has ever flow in about 1 hour, using chnl 6!

Ok, so what did I do you say, and how did I do it?

Well, Autotune works well - and will get your craft flying better than accepting Arducopter defaults. Here is what I did:
Ran Autotune several times to get a baseline. (I had done that already)

In MP you can assign a PID setting to chnl 6, so you can make changes in the air. I was avoiding this, for fear of crashing. It is easy to do. Assign chnl 6 in MP to a pot and calibrate your controller. Make sure chnl 6 moves correctly in MP.

1. take a screen shot of your current PIDS.
2. set the I and D values to 0. Yes...0. Zero, nada...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:16 PM | 231,498 Views
*I continue to add more content to the end*
latest addition 2/4/17

if you have never tuned your quad, you are missing out. You may think is is flying the best it ever has, but you are flying with defaults. It's not that hard, but just takes some time.

Autotune - before running autotune, the quad MUST be VERY STABLE in AltHold. If your quad is "wobbly" don't run Autotune, you risk it flipping. This has happened to some here. I can't stress this enough. Autotune will stress your quad to limits in pitch and roll, then "tune" it to what the program thinks is the best settings for your setup. AUTOTUNE WILL NOT FIX A CRAFT THAT IS NOT STABLE IN THE FIRST PLACE. That is not what it is for. It is for fine tuning your PIDS to your setup. The autotune process saves you loads of time in manual tuning. It just automates the process to give you a good baseline to continue with manual tuning, or if you are happy with the results, you can keep them.

For a successful autotune make sure all your screws are tight and nothing is loose on the Quad.
1. You must have done ALL CALIBRATIONS, including the beer bottle calibration for perfect level. You want to give your quad the best calibrated settings you can for a successful autotune.
2. Must be completely stable in AltHold. No wobbling, and no drifting vertically at all.
3. No loose parts on the Quad. The craft will shake a lot and loose parts will throw off the autotune. The programmers recommend doing an...Continue Reading
Posted by Quad808 | May 11, 2016 @ 04:14 PM | 231,277 Views

Originally Posted by Quad808 View Post
It really is very, very difficult.

OK, no it isn't at ALL!! This is so easy to do, its dumb not to do this. It requires removing 1 already connected wire and then getting a new wire and connecting both ends...one goes to the FC, the other goes to the RX....basically you are connecting a wire from #-3 on the RX to 8 Aux4 on the FC. (left picture)(currently #-3 RX goes to the bottom of the quad for Aux2 connection, #8 Aux4 FC is not connected to anything)
Here is a quick and easy guide to using autotune with the stock TX:

1) Fabricate a 1 pin servo wire. You can do one of the following:
A) Buy a JR plug, in the bag you get a JR plastic plug housing, and some metal pin
connectors. Take a wire and crimp + heatshrink one of the connectors to each
end of the wire. (I grabbed one from a PC case that I had)
B) Take a 3-wire servo connector (female to female), carefully crack open the
plugs at both ends of the wire with some pliers and extract one of the wires with the metal connectors still attached to it.

2) Open up your Nova / Cx-20

3) Disconnect the 3 wire servo plug from the channel labelled "-1-2-3" on the stock RX (this is the one for the gimbal controls). Remove the #-3 wire from the 3 wire connector.

4) Connect your 1 pin servo wire to the signal pin of channel "-3" on the RX, or slide it into the 3 wire connector. Put the 3 wire...Continue Reading