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Posted by paulbw | Oct 28, 2010 @ 04:02 PM | 8,586 Views
Having seen glimpses of this aircraft in various reference books, in mock-up form and under construction, I came across it again in an RAF Year Book, loaned to me after a chance meeting with a retired RAF pilot. A Mach 2.5 capable design, in this publication an artist’s impression pictured it at low level, in camouflage scheme, in company with a TSR2.

The TSR2 got to fly before being cancelled, whereas Hawker’s P.1121 was cancelled whilst partly constructed. The part-built airframe is in storage at RAF Cosford. Intrigued by the design - not to mention its cancellation - I decided to try and research it fully enough to build an RC flying model. Born in the 1950’s, this likely ‘Hurricane II’ was a typical piece of Hawker thoroughbred design – and well ahead of its time.

My internet search turned up Steve Bage's beautiful little free-flight Jetex model and Steve, despite my being a stranger to him, very generously made-available a GA to go with my Barrie Hygate drawing and his design (very many thanks Steve). I had hopes that this would mean a shortcut to a fast build, but my need to base the design around the edf and ducting installation ultimately meant starting again with a ‘clean-sheet’, or should that be ‘clear-screen’?!

Having got the basic tracing done in Corel (all known information then available on screen) I got down to some design decisions on size, power-plant and build-methodology. I wanted a design that would fly on its wing which would mean...Continue Reading
Posted by paulbw | Jun 11, 2010 @ 08:14 AM | 12,509 Views
I haven't seen this discussed or in use hereabouts, so it may be of use to other electric flyers.
This is a method of increasing the surface area of the heat-sink on ESC’s - those that have a flat alloy-plate heat-sink that is encapsulated within heat-shrink. It involves through-mounting the ESC on an external skin; or in the case of an EDF, a slot in the ducting is also a possibility.

This method works for me. If you decide to try it, you will most certainly void any warranty. You also do this modification entirely at your own risk, just as I did!!
Obtain the extrusion identified in the photos: I got mine from a local well-known DIY shop – yes UK readers, ‘you can do it, if you …!’
Next, you’ll need an epoxy called ‘Thermal Bonding System’ (RS sells this stuff in the UK) and a dense foam pad and ply plate, this to temporarily protect the circuit side of the ESC.

Identify the heat-sink side of the ESC; (flat-side, maybe it’s the one with the label attached!) Mark a rectangle that accurately leaves a little heat-shrink remaining as a ‘frame’ around the edge and front-face of the plate. This is important as it provides a second line of defence in keeping the plate securely attached to the ESC itself.
Cut away the heat-shrink to expose the factory-fitted heat-sink (Peter Piper picked a piece of..!!) Lightly roughen the surface.

Cut a section of extrusion that will fully cover the exposed heat-sink, whilst just avoiding the remaining plastic heat-shrink.
...Continue Reading
Posted by paulbw | Jun 09, 2009 @ 04:39 PM | 7,402 Views
This is a discussion on the noticeable change to the hull forms of Short Bros flying boats. It starts with me in a position of blissful ignorance of such matters and charts progress towards a partial enlightenment. It is certainly a large thank you to a group of people who have joined in and spent time looking for elusive information – and to new friends. It is also a narrative of how information came to light. It might interest anyone else who likes to know why things are the way they are... If it does, please do add a message here!

This all came about when I reached the point of building the hull of my Sealand, but then noticed that the plan showed no ‘step’ – that is a ‘normal’ step with a vertical displacement, as traditionally fitted to previous flying boats. This formed an obvious question or two: was the full size designed that way? It took only a couple of days to establish that it certainly was..! But then, why was it designed that way?

My request for information on the Sealand thread got me some interesting responses and lots of emails behind the scenes. As soon as I started reading around the subject, it became apparent that the hull-forms of Short Sunderland flying boats changed quite noticeably during their service development. The MK I & II had a traditional step; the Mk III and onwards being faired (or ‘blended’ as we had been referring to it.) The later Sealand was also designed with this ‘blended’ or faired step. Thanks to everyone for...Continue Reading
Posted by paulbw | Mar 27, 2009 @ 12:37 PM | 7,973 Views
'00' and '000' self-tap screws.
These csk screws are 1.6mm diameter by 6mm and 1.00mm diameter by 4mm respectively. The subject of cockpit canopy fixing has come up several times lately and as I have finally managed to persuade my computer to handle images again I thought I'd treat myself to a new blog entry which, with any luck, will include pictures - hooray!

Finding such sub-miniature self-tappers was a revelation to me as there is nothing worse than a servo-sized screw employed to hold glazing on to a model, but nothing more scale like than these tiny fixings, which provide a great fitting system and also give the option of canopy removal without struggling with a glued joint and the risk of ruining the paintwork!

They will hold effectively in balsa that is pre-drilled undersize and then hardened with a spot of cyano or can be seriously tenacious if a tiny 1/64" circular ply button is epoxied behind the balsa skin as a load-spreader - I've done this to secure a catapult hook without problems.

These screws are counter-sink head and can be obtained from:
Choose the 'Accessories' section 8 and scroll down until a picture of them appears. Not many folks reading this will fail to recognise the name of Mick Reeves and his site is well worth a good browse. It is worth saying that I rang Mick Reeves on a Thursday afternoon - "...what's your last three..?!" - and was unwrapping the goodies on the very next morning!

Another good model-fixings source is:
They do NOT stock the '00' or '000' sizes but they DO stock a lot of other useful stuff!
I have no connection with either of these sites other than as a customer. It would be good to hear from anyone that finds this entry to be useful and also from anyone who can add to the list! A source of '000' pan-head screws anyone, or how about some 12ba machine screws?!
Paul W.
Posted by paulbw | Jan 22, 2009 @ 06:54 AM | 10,034 Views
Some time ago I came across Roy Tassell’s web site
and my interest in this unusual aircraft caused me to purchase a set of his GA drawings – I was especially pleased to note that it included sections. Soon after, I mentioned this aircraft whilst in conversation with a well known modeller and he gave me some pertinent advice based upon how he would tackle such a build. This then joined the list of definite candidates for a build - but one that would have to await its turn.

Then, last year, a Corel Draw tutorial was offered by Roly - ‘Milhafre’ - as part of his Percival Gull thread;
I immediately thought of all those Saro curves and chose to use this aircraft as the learning vehicle. I think I posted a shot of a successful GA tracing on his thread. What follows is a part ‘thank you’ to Roly and a part ‘what was the result?’ sort of a thing!

Actually drawing an electronic line, converting it to a curve and then manipulating that curve was a first-time pleasure of great significance! The choice of the SRA1 was not as savvy as it could have been however. The GA that I had to hand included something like seven hull/fuselage sections: surely that was plenty? It soon became obvious that, because of the complex hull/fuselage shape, I was going to need more if I was to achieve any useful accuracy (read possible model or even cut-files!). I then found another drawing for internet...Continue Reading