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Posted by frieslander | Nov 24, 2010 @ 11:53 AM | 16,712 Views
With the winter again coming up I was reminded of some fun I had a few years ago. A member just reminded me of this thread:

Have fun reading it!
Posted by frieslander | Nov 07, 2010 @ 03:22 PM | 17,683 Views
Adapting a Nine Eagles Carger to Charge E-flite Style Batteries

The adaption is with the wall charger for the Nine Eacles Solo etc. batteries. Take the back off and solder the connectors to the bottom side of the board. Notch the case to let the wires through, tie a knot in the leads to prevent them from pulling out. Here's the link to the connectors:

And here's the pictures:
Posted by frieslander | Apr 09, 2010 @ 06:16 PM | 18,559 Views
Some of you know that I scratch build a tugboat quite a few years ago, I did some updates to the inner workings of the boat. Here is a link to the Tugboat thread:
Posted by frieslander | Apr 07, 2010 @ 05:46 PM | 18,467 Views
I was asked about my Shell motif V3 skids. Those skids are Walkera skids - HM-53-1-Z-07 found here among other places:

I simply took the supports and drilled new mounting holes to line up with the V3 frame. Then I drilled them once more to a size slightly larger than the mounting screw heads. I then cut a couple of pieces of vinyl 7.50mm by 43mm. These were first glued to the top of the struts centered over the holes already drilled using CA or Crazy Glue. Then I drilled a couple of holes on the outside of the mounting holes from the top through the vinyl and the struts and screwed a couple of screws in place for added strength to keep the strips in place. I then drilled holes in the vinyl strips in the center of the holes already drilled into the struts.

Next was the velcro mod explained below in this blog.
Posted by frieslander | Mar 29, 2010 @ 07:53 PM | 20,475 Views
There have been several posts in the past where the Nine Eagles TX shown in the picture below showed 3 bars and would no longer work.

Finally a solution for this problem thanks to our Italian member marconos. He posted the solution but it was lost somewhat in the translation. He then posted a video and a fellow member shin (Hank) tried it to confirm the method.

These are Hank's words:

I pushed in and held the right stick heard the beep pushed down on the left stick and while holding both down moved both sticks in a few clockwise rotations and the tx went back to a normal display and works just fine.

Thanks marconos and Hank

Here is how site sponsor jasonjetski corrected the same problem:

Hi Durk,
First I removed the screws from the antenna mount to put my TX into Mode 2 as in the video. I don't know if I needed to do it,but I did.
While pushing the sticks both in,I turned the TX on and then move both TX sticks in a full circular motion a few times.
I noticed the "---" three lines were then scrolling up and down.
I then stopped moving the sticks and the screen came back to life again.
This is a very valuable lesson which Iam very grateful for the solution.It is sure to help others at a later time.
Regards Jason

And here is a new translation from marconos who first posted the solution to the problem:
step 1 - the radio is locked
step 2 - turn on the radio
Step 3 - press and hold simultaneously two stik crushed. (will display)
If the maneuver is done in mode 2 - the dashboard will appear soon
If the maneuver is done in mode 1 - 3 will see the lines moving (binding)
just turn off and on the radio.

And the video link to his video:

The video is dark and is here for reference.

Here is another post on this procedure:
Posted by frieslander | Feb 19, 2010 @ 12:38 PM | 20,357 Views
I was trying to bind a new Solo to my older Solo TX. I tried to follow the instructions in the Solo Instructions Manual, no luck. I then tried the Proto instructions manual, still no luck. The Chinglese was making no sense. The Chinese try hard but it is not the same unless the Chinese person is extremely fluent in the English language.

However from the two manuals I was able to pick up enough hints to be able to get the binding procedure figured out.

Read the instructions completely before attempting this to make sure you are familiar with the procedure.

1.) Turn the TX on and make sure the Throttle handle is all the way down and the display reads 000. The throttle trim tab must be centered also. Turn the TX off.

2.) Install the battery in the heli.

3.) Pick up the TX in both hands, and with the Throttle stick all the way down, press the stick towards the TX in a downward push until you hear a "click".

4.) Keep the stick in that position while sliding the power switch to the on position,this is VERY important!. Wait untill the red light on the RX stops blinking, for the Solo Pro the light is blue, the binding has now occured. You can now release the Throttle stick.

5.) Remove the battery from the heli and then shut the TX off. The procedure is complete.
Posted by frieslander | Feb 12, 2010 @ 05:57 PM | 20,318 Views
Here is the Nine Eagles Solo diagram and parts list. These are helpful for the Proto and the Mini-Stinger also.
Posted by frieslander | Feb 09, 2010 @ 07:12 PM | 19,310 Views
The Bravo III skids looked heavier than the Solo skids so I ordered a set to try out.

The Bravo III skids will fit into the holes but it is a squeeze fit. The Solo skids are spaced at 35 mm outside to outside of the pins. The Bravo III are spaced 33.4 mm outside to outside of the pins.

Also the battery holder is about 6.5 mm further forward on the Bravo skids preventing the Solo canopy to fit on unless trimmed.

The skid supports are wider thus will be stronger, the width goes all the way accross the top too. The runners however are the same thickness as the stock Solo skids.

Another strange thing is a slide switch on the front of the skid and 3 wires coming from it, yellow, black and red.

I cut a piece of white vinyl for a new modified mount set up. I drilled out 2 holes for the new pin location and a large hole in the middle for the lower gear flange clearance. I cut the pins off the skid and glued them into the holes of the white vinyl piece.

I removed the switch and then carefully took the black battery terminals out. I soldered new heavier wire in place and replaced the terminal strip. A couple of drops of CA fastened it in place.

I sanded the top of the skid until it would fit flat against the white vinyl and carefully CA'd it in place.
Posted by frieslander | Feb 09, 2010 @ 06:42 PM | 22,735 Views
1.) Turn the Transmitter on and install the Solo battery in the usual way.

2.) Press the black button on the back, in the antenna through between the 2 bracket mounting holes, 3 times in a row, you will hear a single short beep.

3.) The Transmitter trims on the screen will all be centered at this point and will not move again until after step 6 is performed.

4.) Proceed to fly the Solo and use the trim buttons until you achieve a stable and smooth flight, the indicators on the screen will not change when you do this. Also be warned that the Rudder stick will not work, the rudder trim however will work. It may take a few pushes of the rudder trim button to trim it out.

5.) Once you have achieved a stable smooth fight and a relatively hands free hover, land the Solo.

6.) Press the same black button you pressed in step 2 and you should hear a long beep.

7.) Turn the Transmitter off and then remove the battery from your Solo. Your Solo and Transmitter are now set up.
Posted by frieslander | Feb 03, 2010 @ 11:00 AM | 20,302 Views
I did not like the first skid mod on the Solo. the CA would not hold on the flexible skids and would come loose. So I decided to stiffen up the center of the skid with a piece of vinyl stock. The new setup looks and works much better.
Posted by frieslander | Feb 03, 2010 @ 10:44 AM | 19,631 Views
I was having a problem getting my ball linkages off the swash on my Solo and then trying to get them back on. I reamed them out a little, the one was fine after but the other one was too loose for my liking.

I got out one of my round toothpicks and used it to put a coating of CA on the inside of the hole and let it dry. Now it feels great, comes off when I want it off but stays snug in place when it snaps on. If needed a second coat could be applied.

This trick will work with worn linkages also.
Posted by frieslander | Jan 30, 2010 @ 10:05 PM | 20,289 Views
The Nine Eagles Solo is a great little heli, very easy to fly. The drawback is the skids, they break easy in a crash. When my skids broke I decided to come up with an alternative, Copter V max 6020 skids.

The first picture shows where I cut the supports and left the upper part intact. I used CA glue to glue the Solo skid part underneat the 6020 skids. The mounting pins on the Solo skids are long enough to reach into the mounting holes and stay secured.
Posted by frieslander | Nov 13, 2009 @ 07:56 PM | 20,884 Views
I always get frustrated in that when I make a Velcro battery conversion I never seem to get the measurements exactly correct. I decided to make a Template I can print off and glue to the plastic on order to drill the holes in the propper place. I mount my plastic Velcro mount on the battery tray covering the mounting holes. I drill big holes in the plastic so the mounting screws can be screwed in the original holes, making it easy to remove everything in one pice. This also fits the Eflite models with the same landing gear as the V4. Since I am not familiar with the Eflite helis someone can post the ones that are the same.

When printing out the template check the dimensions against the dimensions under the picture.

For those of you that do not know how to copy a picture here, click on the picture to open it in full view. Then right click on the picture and select Copy. Then right click in a folder or on the desktop and select Paste
Posted by frieslander | Oct 27, 2009 @ 11:04 AM | 19,588 Views
Here are some tips to installing a KOB body on a V4.

The front mounting holes line up but the rear holes do not. A couple of shoring pins must be glued to the frame just forward of the Servo slots. Take one of the long shoring pins and cut it in half each half will be about one inch long. The pins can be cut with a cutting disc or use the edge of a file. Use Crazy Glue to glue it just in fron tof the slot as shown in the picture.

The front shoring pin should be installed with some fuel line tubing on it between the inside of the frames. Also put a little piece of fuel line tubing on the outside so that the grommets on the canopy are flush with the pin ends. The canopy is narrow and will stay in place without comming off. To help removal and installation of the canopy I recommend coating the ends of the pins with Vaseline. This makes it much easier to install and remove the canopy.
Posted by frieslander | Oct 24, 2009 @ 02:25 PM | 31,534 Views
Hi All:

I am writing this in order to give some tips to some of you out there who are having problems with stripped threads in plastic parts. I have gathered a lot of wisdom over the years as I worked with a lot of delicate instruments and tiny parts.

I had some stripped holes in my V3 frame recently and although I do have several frames around, I do not like wasting money and spending unnecessary time moving parts from one frame to another.

First stripped holes that go through the plastic:

Put a drop of crazy glue in the hole and spread it around quickly with a cocktail toothpick. The round ones with a point at each end.

Be very careful here, do not hold the toothpick in your mouth at any time, it needs to be dry or it will stick in the hole. Also if you put it in your mouth with crazy glue on it I guarantee you will go CRAZY.

Do not put too much in there, you only want to put a film on it. Let it dry for about 20 minutes and then thread the screw through the hole. ALWAYS thread the screw in before attempting to assemble anything. You may have to put a LITTLE pressure on the screw driverwhen doing this.

NOTE: I have noticed that the long screws that come with the Extreme skids work the best here, the threads seem to be sharper.

Be patient and you will succeed with this one.

Stripped holes in plastic that do not go all the way through:

Here you do the same as above BUT be very careful how much Crazy Glue you put in there, you do not want to...Continue Reading
Posted by frieslander | Oct 24, 2009 @ 12:11 PM | 19,540 Views
With the batteries disconnected and the TX off, reset both pots to their middle position, rotate them fully both ways and calculate the middle setting.

Make sure your TX sticks and trims are centered except the throttle, the throttle stick and trim must be fully down.

Leaving your TX off but close by so you reach it.

Plug your battery in when holding the V4 down on a level surface by its skids. keep your hands and face away from the spinning blades should they start to spin.

Wait for the light to alternate from red to green and then turn your TX on.

Then when everything is on for a minute and the light stays green, unplug the battery and turn off your TX. This resets the RX to the TX.

Now start normally and try to fly and adjust again if needed. You may find that at this point no further adjustments are required.
Posted by frieslander | Oct 16, 2009 @ 11:34 AM | 19,681 Views
I have a Esky Hunter body coming and a Dauphin body, so there may be at least 2 others coming out of my spare parts.

The one heli on the bottom combo picture is an V3 with Xtreme skids and a flex tail. I have an Xtreme canopy to paint for that one and a Velcro Mod to perform on it.

There is also a couple of KOB bodies coming. They will go on the frame in the picture with the Walkera skid.

The KOB, The Predator, is now here.