Posted by Zaitsevsky | Today @ 07:43 AM | 370 Views
This drone is designed to mechanically block light UAVs at a distance of few kilometers. The ratio between the drone's high engine thrust and low mass is its competitive advantage. It can fly fast. Drone rotors are used to spread the net. The high energy and mass of the rotors allows the use of a larger net. The drone is equipped with a parachute and a siren. The interceptor does not contain anything prohibited. It is classified as a racing drone. Several containers with interceptors can be placed on a patrol car.
How the interceptor drone is invented (1 min 15 sec)

Posted by Tazkiller85 | Today @ 06:03 AM | 457 Views
🧐Yep Les Amis,
En toute transparence !!! lol . J'ai en test depuis quelque temps le nouveau fer à souder de chez SEQURE, le S1012. Original et plutôt bien conçu, cet appareil vous permettra non seulement, de souder à domicile ou sur le terrain, mais il est également polyvalent et acceptera des pannes de différentes longueur selon vos besoin. Sécurisé et facile d'utilisation, sa rapidité de chauffe et ses options de programmation, faciliteront certainement vos travaux de soudure. En bref, si dans le temps il est aussi résistant et fiable que le TS100, je valide ... Prenez soin de vous (et des autres) et merci à tous pour votre soutien .

SEQURE S1012 - Review Test Démo - Résultat Concours Permanent ! (19 min 7 sec)


🧐NOTATAZ : 17/20 Bien! A voir dans la durée ...

Chez SEQURE ( Coupon TAZKILLER85 ) :
- S1012 : https://bit.ly/3tUDRcd
- SQ-D60B Fer à souder : https://bit.ly/3bNkCY1
- SQ ES126 Tournevis Elec ( coupon 10% SQES126 ) : https://bit.ly/3aAY3W0
- Fers à souder SEQURE : https://bit.ly/2PgPUyo
- Accessoires soudure : https://bit.ly/3oa2CgT
Chez Banggood :
- Alimentation 4-24V : https://bit.ly/3wCxpnZ
- Panne longues T12 : https://www.banggood.com/custlink/mDvYb9IMkG
- Paille de fer : https://bit.ly/2RNhhkP
- Pompe à dessouder : https://bit.ly/3fEvjgw
- Flux conducteur : https://bit.ly/3hVpa2y
- Accessoires soudure : https://www.banggood.com/custlink/mKmRQZ82zS

Prévisions et Nouveautés, Bientôt en TEST en...Continue Reading
Posted by Alann | Today @ 03:04 AM | 795 Views
Image 1 shows the right wing spar constructed from the 1/2 inch Hobby Lobby foam board. I have left the paper covering to help reduce bending. The top and bottom of the spar has exposed foam so it can glue to the wing skin. The ribs are made from 3/16 inch Hobby Lobby foam board. I have left the paper on the sides of the ribs for strength. The edges of the ribs have exposed foam which will be glued the foam of the top and bottom skin. The spar and the ribs have notches cut into them so that they can be slid together. The ribs are glued to the spar using White Gorilla glue. note: This glue is activated with moisture. To glue the rubs to the spar the spar is first sprayed with water. The glue is then applied to the ribs and then slid into the spar notches.

Image 2 shows the bottom skin attached to the spar and rib structure. The bottom skin uses 3/16 foam board from DollarTree. Dollar Tree foam is more bendable than Hobby Lobby 316 foam board making the DollarTree foam more easily formed to the contour of the ribs. I have removed the paper covering from the bottom skin and sprayed it with water. I then applied White Gorilla glue to the bottom edge of the ribs and spar. I then aligned the two together and used pins to hold the two pieces together while the glue cured.

Image 3 shows the right wing structure showing the 1/4 inch round dowel leading edge. I chose to use a 1/4 inch round dowel as it closely matches the proper leading edge contour of the Clark Y wing profile. It is also possible to see the grooves I made every two tenths of an inch using the edge of a #1 Phillips-head screw driver so I could bend the skin to contour to the profile of the rib between its leading edge and the spar.

Image 4 shows the area of the wing where the aileron will go. Notice the back edge of the wing is slanted backwards so that the aileron will be able to move in a downward direction without hitting the wing edge.
Posted by RCWorks | Today @ 02:52 AM | 811 Views
I finally got some of the key pieces to do the build...

Since it is a purpose built frame that included the steerer and head tube.

I am documenting the parts here in this thread to keep a record of what they are and where they came from.

The 1 inch steerer, 240mm length.
https://cycle-frames.com/collections...rer-tube-240mm

Head tube
1.375" O.D.,
0.095" Wall
1.185" I.D.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/...4130/pid/26421

Headset. Any cheap 1 inch headset will do.
I found this offering for $3
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203750146939

Because I will use clip on handle bars I will cap the steerer with a threadless head set cap. Not required, just for looks...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363633207763


81-83 YAMAHA VIRAGO 750 XV750 O FORKS UPPER TREE AND LOWER TREE CLAMP
I got a whole fork assembly for less than this but this is what you are after. My fork was $50 shipped.
I will be using 4130 1.25" O.D ,.125" walls inch tubing for the fork tubes. I don't know what the factory tubes are made of and how well it likes to be welded. Since I don't like losing a front wheel going down the road I will be using a steel that I know will weld well and not be risky down the road. I guess you could test your medical insurance by using the factory fork tubes...
The length of my forks is dictated by the radius of the wheel and tire.

Before I open the garage I need to go to the milling machine and cut a slot in the steerer for a "lock washer". This will be the first video. I need it done before the steerer is welded in.

Here is a picture of what you need from the virago forks because I know that ebay post will one day be gone.
Posted by charlton29 | Today @ 02:03 AM | 860 Views
So, I took my Milan out for a run in a modest wind. I am still getting used to the idea of flying something that big and how far away it can be, also getting used to using all the flaps, crow, camber control, elevator compensation and whatnot. I did not try to to anything too radical as far as aerobatics goes, but enjoyed a bit of a cruise. The scenery is quite spectacular and looks even better from above, with the various coastal rock formations. Enjoy!

Oh, the video link:
Just Cruising (7 min 21 sec)

Posted by burkefj | Today @ 01:15 AM | 830 Views
I got a chance to maiden my upscale Pegasus XL and Space Transporter America R/C rocket gliders as well as my upscale Avro Vulcan using an onboard Spektrum 6610T receiver with telemetry for altitude...

Highpower Pegasus XL R/C rocket glider (3 min 25 sec)


Large Highpower R/C Space Transporter America rocket glider (3 min 57 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by healthyfatboy | Yesterday @ 09:19 PM | 1,166 Views
Ready to be assembled
Posted by old4570 | Yesterday @ 06:03 PM | 1,281 Views
XK A800 & WL F959 (11 min 0 sec)


Havent flown these in a very long time ..

XK A800 was flown yesterday and the F959 was flown this morning .
When I left home this morning there was a slight breeze ...
Nothing to worry about right ?
By the time I got to the park , it was a wind turning into a Northerly Gale ...
Oh well ! The F959 actually handled that wind reasonably well .. ( Could have gone without the wind ) .
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 03:12 PM | 1,612 Views
Face track run (1 hr 0 min 8 sec)


Complete face tracked run. It does a much better job than a lion manually pointing it. The only downside is not being able to manually point at something else.



Face track bloopers (2 min 49 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Quagga75 | Yesterday @ 01:19 PM | 1,702 Views
A FLZ version of this glider which I started from a WIK design which after finding factory drawings turned out to be very scale.
The original Eppler e195 was compared and replaced with the with the NM 32, a profile intended to improve the performance of the famous HQ profiles which are legion on large flap or non-flap gliders. This profile may be a little thick for this scale especially at the tip where the original had a 9% e174. Scaling the design up to 1-4 should be relatively easy in FLZ-Vortex.
Posted by JohnVH | Yesterday @ 11:05 AM | 1,958 Views
GUYS! Huge sale at Hobbyking! Check it out!

The Albatross is $50 off! https://bit.ly/3D4AtwX
OR AMAZON: https://amzn.to/3JcYO7k

Yak-11 is $70 off! https://bit.ly/3lHQ9zu

Plus LOTS of other massive discounts!!
Posted by Langa_FPV | Yesterday @ 10:14 AM | 1,908 Views
A quick video on my #catalystmachineworks #BanGod #3Inch frame assembly. Auto edited using #GoPro quick software. All I had to do is download and upload to youtube.

How to build a drone frame #BangGod #3inch #CatalystMachineworks (3 min 32 sec)

Posted by Old_Pilot | Yesterday @ 07:49 AM | 2,067 Views
Got the fans mounted and the nacelles assembled yesterday. Filled all the divots with light weight spakling (sp). Spent the morning sanding with 220. Still have more to do. But just for grins I decided to dry fit all the parts. Going to try something new. I usually cover pink foam with brown paper and 4-5 coats of polycrylic. In an effort to save a bit of weight I'm going to try this thick water-based polyurethane. Well see. I'm also going to line the battery compartment with lightweight corrugated cardboard (USPS Flat Rate box board). The nose is a bit wiggly.
Posted by Fridolin1981 | Yesterday @ 04:15 AM | 2,361 Views
After two scratch built planes among one I designed myself (C-152) and a rather unusual Flyingboat (S-39) I was looking for a funflyer easy to build with compact dimensions. The choice fell on the RBC "Viejo" kit which seems to be pretty easy to build and is a lot of fun to fly.

The wingspan is 890mm and the take off weight should be around 650g.

The quality of the kit is very nice and the documentation with a 3D pdf included is very good.

Here's the link to the build log.

Have fun
Posted by Blizzard15 | Jan 20, 2022 @ 11:48 PM | 2,690 Views
I am going to Start a Build on a Great Planes T-craft kit. I think I am going to power it with an O.S 30FS. The covering would be a vintage "Toledo Special" kind of look with Hangar 9 Ultracote "Smoke Purple" and "Cream". I don't know if I want to size up the fuel tank, but I'll decide on that later. Any tips on building this aircraft? Pictures will come.
Posted by Merovech | Jan 20, 2022 @ 11:47 PM | 2,695 Views
Repairs are coming along slowly. I finally decided to start repairing the tail and found the F-16 part (horizontal stabilizer) was no going to fit well. So I ended up using half of a V900's horizontal stabilizer instead.

After fitting the half into the mount, adding a bit of carbon fiber tubing along with a couple of nylon screws and carbon fiber rods, it was time for finishing the canopy attachment: magnets.

Then came the initial electrical trial with the servos and the AR637TA from my Conscendo. After a couple of adjustments, everything seemed good.

Next, I'll add in flaps to slow for landings, after that will be the bottom plate and retracts.
Posted by VicT | Jan 20, 2022 @ 11:01 PM | 2,750 Views
A fellow clubmember stopped flying his Avistar about 4 yrs ago. He was using a Rimfire 46 with 12/6 on 5S 6000 Graphene, YEP 120 amp ESC. Lots of power and speed but heavy at 8.08 lbs. 1387 watts so I wanted to reduce power and weight. She is down to 6.5 lbs and 645 watts using a 2200 4S 50 C pack and an Aerostar 80 Amp Reversing. ESC to reduce landing rollout distance. I’m looking forward to seeing how the 24% weight reduction does for endurance and performance.
Posted by Alan 3D | Jan 20, 2022 @ 08:01 PM | 3,039 Views
Being in the radio communications industry I had to do a lot of testing of radio equipment and often used a dummy load with a RF meter or other equipment.

Another type of dummy load would be for checking a power source. This would be on the idea of like checking a car battery with a load tester for example.

One thing I found very useful in RC planes is to evaluate the reliability of the
Receiver Battery/BEC using a dummy load test.
Unsure if you're receiver power source is up to the job of reliably supplying power to your RC aircraft system? If not it could be a very short flight especially if you're the one who built it. Just because it works on the ground doesn't mean it's going to continue to work in the air reliably. Many of aircraft have crashed because of this situation. When servo's get moving, they put a load and noise into the system and sometimes the receiver reboots in flight causing a crash. You can have the best radio system there is but if your power source isn't up to the job, you may be the one at your field making the Walk of shame.

I have used 4 x 1ohm 10 Watt resistors in series for testing receiver power sources connected to a servo lead. This gives you the option of going from 1 to 4 ohms depending on the kind of load that you want to add to your aircraft. The link below will go into detail and how to do it and what you need. If you don't have Telemetry or Vmeters or watt meters to use, simple math is all you really need to do this test with the resistors and servo lead. If you connect the resistors directly to power source than a servo lead is not needed, just the resistors.

The link below shows a simple way of adding a dummy load to your receiver power source to see if control is lost due to a lack of power to the receiver. The link also goes into many other problems you may run into in RC aircraft.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s#post48002885