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@ Peter!
I have uploaded most of the Videos pertaining to the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Prject Up to Vimeo for a better and slightly larger format, especially when the viewer selects the Full Screen Target: (See Attached)
This allows for several things:
1. It allows the viewer to easily download the video (much easier than Youtube).
2. It allows for a slightly larger viewing format in Normal mode & a much higher resolution in Full Screen view.
3. This additional Video location provides a secondary backup of our work!
Still Pictures Showing 3D Printed Radial Engine Build & Integration on E-Flite AT6 Texan 1.5m
WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE Testing while Using Park Zone 480 Motor and swinging MAS 3-Blade 10 X 7 Propeller
...Continue Reading
I have uploaded most of the Videos pertaining to the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Prject Up to Vimeo for a better and slightly larger format, especially when the viewer selects the Full Screen Target: (See Attached)
This allows for several things:
1. It allows the viewer to easily download the video (much easier than Youtube).
2. It allows for a slightly larger viewing format in Normal mode & a much higher resolution in Full Screen view.
3. This additional Video location provides a secondary backup of our work!
Still Pictures Showing 3D Printed Radial Engine Build & Integration on E-Flite AT6 Texan 1.5m
| 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Bust for the E-Flite AT-6 Texan RC Model Still Pictues 11-24-2019 (5 min 36 sec) |
WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE Testing while Using Park Zone 480 Motor and swinging MAS 3-Blade 10 X 7 Propeller
| E-Flite AT6 Texan 1.5m Watts - AMPs - Voltage Test - Battery had run prior 11-19-2019 (2 min 8 sec) |
Hello good people!
As the title says, this is perhaps the Finalized Summary on the:
3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine & E-Flite AT-6 Texan with PZ 480.
I believe that I did a good job providing the Summary over at RCUniverse and you all can read up on it at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post12565560
For those truly interested then, you can visit Peter's Web Site over at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
Some Teaser Pics:
...Continue Reading
As the title says, this is perhaps the Finalized Summary on the:
3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine & E-Flite AT-6 Texan with PZ 480.
I believe that I did a good job providing the Summary over at RCUniverse and you all can read up on it at:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/arf-...l#post12565560
For those truly interested then, you can visit Peter's Web Site over at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
Some Teaser Pics:
...Continue Reading
Peter,
Here's the measurements and so sorry some are in "INCHES" because we are so used to dealing with that scale!
For those others who are truly interested in Peter's Work then, you can visit his web site over at:
http://motorattrappen.de/...Continue Reading
Here's the measurements and so sorry some are in "INCHES" because we are so used to dealing with that scale!
For those others who are truly interested in Peter's Work then, you can visit his web site over at:
http://motorattrappen.de/...Continue Reading
Guys,
Here's WEIGH-IN Session on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan using the Park Zone 480 and the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Bust.
Previous Post about WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under Load can be found at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
However, I did perform a new WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under load test during the night of Tuesday, November 19th, 2019 and here's the data:
I have performed my 3rd WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE UNDER LOAD test on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan that was configured with the Park Zone 480 motor and Castle Creations 45-AMP ESC and using GEN ACES 3-Cell, 2200mAH, 35C, Lithium Polymer battery pack and fully charged.
During a careful pre-test check, I found something wrong with the propeller adapter so, I changed it and it was a simple fix as I had access to the set screw holding the Propeller Adapter and there was enough space for the HEX Tool.
Here's the Video and Results of tonight's Test: APC 3-Blade 10 X 7 and Park Zone 480 Motor
1/4 Throttle - 39 Watts / 3.23 Amps / 12.22 Volts
1/2 Throttle - 146 Watts / 12.85 Amps / 11.42 Volts
Full Throttle - 219 Watts / 20.44 Amps / 10.74 Volts
===================================...Continue Reading
Here's WEIGH-IN Session on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan using the Park Zone 480 and the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Radial Engine Bust.
Previous Post about WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under Load can be found at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
However, I did perform a new WATTS - AMPS - VOLTS under load test during the night of Tuesday, November 19th, 2019 and here's the data:
I have performed my 3rd WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE UNDER LOAD test on my E-Flite AT-6 Texan that was configured with the Park Zone 480 motor and Castle Creations 45-AMP ESC and using GEN ACES 3-Cell, 2200mAH, 35C, Lithium Polymer battery pack and fully charged.
During a careful pre-test check, I found something wrong with the propeller adapter so, I changed it and it was a simple fix as I had access to the set screw holding the Propeller Adapter and there was enough space for the HEX Tool.
Here's the Video and Results of tonight's Test: APC 3-Blade 10 X 7 and Park Zone 480 Motor
1/4 Throttle - 39 Watts / 3.23 Amps / 12.22 Volts
1/2 Throttle - 146 Watts / 12.85 Amps / 11.42 Volts
Full Throttle - 219 Watts / 20.44 Amps / 10.74 Volts
| WATT - AMP - VOLTAGE LOAD TESTING - Park Zone 480 Motor using APC 3-Blade 10 X 7 (2 min 9 sec) |
===================================...Continue Reading
Guys,
Here's the previous Thread on this Project:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
RE: Accommodating the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Project!
Busy CUTTING that dang Tough and Hard Cowling with my ROTARY TOOL Set. Then, I finished it with some stainless steel toe nail precision scissors and once I was able to get to the FRONTAL EDGE Smooth part of the Cowl it was a HOME RUN! Hey, it is NOT PERFECT but, I almost threw away Cowl so, it was a good recovery!
For those truly interested in the 3D Printed Project then, please visit Peter's Web Site at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
ISSUE WITH AR636 - REPLACED with AR8000 + SAT:
Many times this dang AR636 upon initiation it moves my Servos really hard to their end-points. Yes, I do realize the Software operation behind this but, when I Bound it to my Transmitter, I made sure that I Turned-OFF the AS3X stuff but, you could NEVER TURN-OFF these Features entirely and I should know because I can hear the Ailerons move slightly when I pickup the model after a typical flight and the initial sequence it moves ALL my Flight Control Servos something terrible!
I finally solved this by replacing it with a Spare Spektrum AR8000 + SAT.
It is now working like a Charm!
No more violent movement of my Flight Control servos UPON initial program sequence!
Additionally, I performed a Center-Of-Gravity check (several) by placing the battery at it's recommended location within the model and it balanced perfectly!
Here is the...Continue Reading
Here's the previous Thread on this Project:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
RE: Accommodating the 3D Printed 9-Cylinder Project!
Busy CUTTING that dang Tough and Hard Cowling with my ROTARY TOOL Set.
Then, I finished it with some stainless steel toe nail precision scissors and once I was able to get to the FRONTAL EDGE Smooth part of the Cowl it was a HOME RUN! Hey, it is NOT PERFECT but, I almost threw away Cowl so, it was a good recovery!For those truly interested in the 3D Printed Project then, please visit Peter's Web Site at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
ISSUE WITH AR636 - REPLACED with AR8000 + SAT:
Many times this dang AR636 upon initiation it moves my Servos really hard to their end-points. Yes, I do realize the Software operation behind this but, when I Bound it to my Transmitter, I made sure that I Turned-OFF the AS3X stuff but, you could NEVER TURN-OFF these Features entirely and I should know because I can hear the Ailerons move slightly when I pickup the model after a typical flight and the initial sequence it moves ALL my Flight Control Servos something terrible!
I finally solved this by replacing it with a Spare Spektrum AR8000 + SAT.
It is now working like a Charm!
No more violent movement of my Flight Control servos UPON initial program sequence!
Additionally, I performed a Center-Of-Gravity check (several) by placing the battery at it's recommended location within the model and it balanced perfectly!
Here is the...Continue Reading
The earlier Post is at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...lite-AT6-Texan
For those truly interested in Peter's 3D Printed Work then, you can visit his Web Site at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
1. Took out my Model Motors AXI 2826-10 as it tips the digital scale at over 7+ oz. (10+ oz with Dummy Engine)
2. Left the PZ-15 aside as it tips the digital scale at 5 3/8 oz. ( ~ 9+ oz with Dummy Engine).
3. installed the Park Zone 480 as it tips the Digital Scale at 3 3/4oz. ( 7.5 oz. with Dummy Engine.)
I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was on installing the Park Zone 480 motor (same POWER as 44-inch Wing Span T-28 Trojan).
A few trimming tasks on the round Plastic Mount for the PZ-480 was done to allow the Green Frame that holds the Dummy Engine flush against the firewall.
Someone please tell me what sort of tool I can use to cut into the Cowling as it is pretty thick and tough!
...Continue Reading
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...lite-AT6-Texan
For those truly interested in Peter's 3D Printed Work then, you can visit his Web Site at:
http://motorattrappen.de/
1. Took out my Model Motors AXI 2826-10 as it tips the digital scale at over 7+ oz. (10+ oz with Dummy Engine)
2. Left the PZ-15 aside as it tips the digital scale at 5 3/8 oz. ( ~ 9+ oz with Dummy Engine).
3. installed the Park Zone 480 as it tips the Digital Scale at 3 3/4oz. ( 7.5 oz. with Dummy Engine.)
I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was on installing the Park Zone 480 motor (same POWER as 44-inch Wing Span T-28 Trojan).
A few trimming tasks on the round Plastic Mount for the PZ-480 was done to allow the Green Frame that holds the Dummy Engine flush against the firewall.
Someone please tell me what sort of tool I can use to cut into the Cowling as it is pretty thick and tough!
...Continue Reading
Hello,
To see the First Blog Post of this subject then, please go to:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
UPDATE: (The KIT has been fully Assembled - FINISHED)
I have performed Weigh-In sessions and taken pictures of just the Dummy Engine "Hollow" Bust in two (2) configurations on the Digital Scale (oz.).
The first is including everything that came in the KIT and I assembled using and following 95% of the supplied instructions from Peter.
The other is leaving OUT the Metal Bolts & Nuts that came with the KIT and the Exhaust Pipe.
(Going to use Tie-Wraps to secure Engine Bust onto the Green three-point mount for weight savings!)
I have also included High Resolution "CLOSE-UP" Pictures of this KIT that was kindly shipped by Peter so, you can see the excellent results using the GORILLA "CLEAR" Glue. This Glue doesn't seem to have added any weight and the Title saying it is "CLEAR" is exactly that because you just can NOT see any residue of Glue anywhere!
Okay, the pictures showing what you have been waiting for (Sort of........).
Oh, as far as the mounting, I have a surprise in store and it will be my favorite thing I do with these models.
Stay Tuned!
...Continue Reading
To see the First Blog Post of this subject then, please go to:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ite-AT-6-Texan
UPDATE: (The KIT has been fully Assembled - FINISHED)
I have performed Weigh-In sessions and taken pictures of just the Dummy Engine "Hollow" Bust in two (2) configurations on the Digital Scale (oz.).
The first is including everything that came in the KIT and I assembled using and following 95% of the supplied instructions from Peter.
The other is leaving OUT the Metal Bolts & Nuts that came with the KIT and the Exhaust Pipe.
(Going to use Tie-Wraps to secure Engine Bust onto the Green three-point mount for weight savings!)
I have also included High Resolution "CLOSE-UP" Pictures of this KIT that was kindly shipped by Peter so, you can see the excellent results using the GORILLA "CLEAR" Glue. This Glue doesn't seem to have added any weight and the Title saying it is "CLEAR" is exactly that because you just can NOT see any residue of Glue anywhere!
Okay, the pictures showing what you have been waiting for (Sort of........).
Oh, as far as the mounting, I have a surprise in store and it will be my favorite thing I do with these models.
Stay Tuned!
...Continue Reading
Guys,
Today was our RC Club Fun Fly at Moon Port Modelers RC Club in Titusville, Florida. Lots came to see the action and there was Lots of Action (Crashes)!
Of course this was during the Approach to the runway where two stationary poles where on either side of the Textile Runway and holding Party Ribbon material. Many just didn't pay attention to Lining Up their models and three Hit the Poles!
Well, I did pay attention and lined-UP perfectly in the middle of the Runway line and attempted to cut the Ribbon but, a very bad idea came to mine. I decided to come in Super Slow and with Gear Down and you guess it, the Gear did catch the Ribbon but, the model Stall as it was going too slow and crash landed at the Runway from about 5 Feet off the deck. Broke my model's Durafly 4-Blade Propeller and broke off Right Wing Tip clean off. I had a wooden Two Blade Prop (10 X 8) and used that and my Snorting Bull went up with Vengeance and flew again. Everyone applauded when it took off again.
One important NOTE on the selection of Propellers, that wooden 2-Blade 10 X 8 Glow prop was a Dog compared to the High Thrust Durafly 4-Blade propeller. I am searching as I type for two Spares and after that, I will be considering using the E-Flite 4-Blade. The 2-Blade just didn't have the CLIMB and I could not perform those crisp Cuban-8's with that 2-Blade. Well, at least it flew again for three flights with that 2-Blade!
I came with my Hobbico Super Star EP (3-Channel) modified...Continue Reading
Today was our RC Club Fun Fly at Moon Port Modelers RC Club in Titusville, Florida. Lots came to see the action and there was Lots of Action (Crashes)!
Of course this was during the Approach to the runway where two stationary poles where on either side of the Textile Runway and holding Party Ribbon material. Many just didn't pay attention to Lining Up their models and three Hit the Poles!
Well, I did pay attention and lined-UP perfectly in the middle of the Runway line and attempted to cut the Ribbon but, a very bad idea came to mine. I decided to come in Super Slow and with Gear Down and you guess it, the Gear did catch the Ribbon but, the model Stall as it was going too slow and crash landed at the Runway from about 5 Feet off the deck. Broke my model's Durafly 4-Blade Propeller and broke off Right Wing Tip clean off. I had a wooden Two Blade Prop (10 X 8) and used that and my Snorting Bull went up with Vengeance and flew again.
Everyone applauded when it took off again.One important NOTE on the selection of Propellers, that wooden 2-Blade 10 X 8 Glow prop was a Dog compared to the High Thrust Durafly 4-Blade propeller. I am searching as I type for two Spares and after that, I will be considering using the E-Flite 4-Blade.
The 2-Blade just didn't have the CLIMB and I could not perform those crisp Cuban-8's with that 2-Blade. Well, at least it flew again for three flights with that 2-Blade!I came with my Hobbico Super Star EP (3-Channel) modified...Continue Reading
I know that many have old GWS Slow Stick Models that have been stored perhaps as long as mine and it takes just a few minutes to test and test the electronics and Radio Gear to make sure ALL Systems work flawlessly.
In my case with this RED GWS Slow Stick, I found today that the No-Name Brand 20-AMP ESC had a hole in the Heat Shrink Material right over the FETs and also during testing by connecting a Battery and Transmitter it just did not want to come alive! This particular Slow Stick is on a BERG super narrow band 72-Mhz (Castle Creations Product) and coupled with my JR XP-7202 Synth Transmitter that is just Rock Solid. Well, after several connects and disconnects with the Battery -to- ESC connector I found a strange issue with it being completely active and then, it went dead after a few minutes handling the connector!
I took off the Tape for the Positive and Negative at the ESC Connector (once I had everything disconnected from the Battery) and found a very bad SOLDER Joint at the Negative post. Needless to say, I just went ahead and replaced this ESC with the Bullet Proof E-Flite 25-AMP ESC and like magic the model stayed active without any issue nor brown outs. This exercise made me create a new Memory Location for this Slow Stick and on Channel 31 so, not all was lost and it has it's own memory location on the Transmitter!
Additionally, I checked all linkages and foam hinges and they all passed with flying colors!
In my case with this RED GWS Slow Stick, I found today that the No-Name Brand 20-AMP ESC had a hole in the Heat Shrink Material right over the FETs and also during testing by connecting a Battery and Transmitter it just did not want to come alive! This particular Slow Stick is on a BERG super narrow band 72-Mhz (Castle Creations Product) and coupled with my JR XP-7202 Synth Transmitter that is just Rock Solid. Well, after several connects and disconnects with the Battery -to- ESC connector I found a strange issue with it being completely active and then, it went dead after a few minutes handling the connector!
I took off the Tape for the Positive and Negative at the ESC Connector (once I had everything disconnected from the Battery) and found a very bad SOLDER Joint at the Negative post. Needless to say, I just went ahead and replaced this ESC with the Bullet Proof E-Flite 25-AMP ESC and like magic the model stayed active without any issue nor brown outs. This exercise made me create a new Memory Location for this Slow Stick and on Channel 31 so, not all was lost and it has it's own memory location on the Transmitter!
Additionally, I checked all linkages and foam hinges and they all passed with flying colors!
Guys,
I had an opportunity super early this morning while the family was still asleep to work on at least one RED SLOW STICK with a BP Brushless motor, ESC and servos already installed, however, required some TLC and minor repairs.
This particular GWS Slow Stick had some modifications and RICHARD installed hollow Aluminum Rubber Band Securing Posts to allow for any size / shape rubber bands and not fear that they will come OFF during flight instead of just using the STOCK Plastic Nipples.
However, one section (Right Front Post plus Plastic Hardware) was observed to have been busted completely off and I had to improvise and repair. Luckily I have a good hardware collection of sorts and was able to fix the post by drilling baby drill on the top of the wing saddle and found a head bolt small enough with almost a flat head to fix and return this SLOW STICK in flying condition.
A few Pictures!
I had an opportunity super early this morning while the family was still asleep to work on at least one RED SLOW STICK with a BP Brushless motor, ESC and servos already installed, however, required some TLC and minor repairs.
This particular GWS Slow Stick had some modifications and RICHARD installed hollow Aluminum Rubber Band Securing Posts to allow for any size / shape rubber bands and not fear that they will come OFF during flight instead of just using the STOCK Plastic Nipples.
However, one section (Right Front Post plus Plastic Hardware) was observed to have been busted completely off and I had to improvise and repair. Luckily I have a good hardware collection of sorts and was able to fix the post by drilling baby drill on the top of the wing saddle and found a head bolt small enough with almost a flat head to fix and return this SLOW STICK in flying condition.
A few Pictures!
Guys!
Since my buddy (Gerry) is retired he beat me to having the first operational SLOW STICK from the lot I found in my house last night!
Gerry really wants to go back to relaxing times and fly SLOW and LOW as he has a Grand Daughter (2 years old) that is transfixed with RC Airplanes!
Here is Gerry's Dark Green SLOW STICK with Brushless Power! THE CRAZE IS BACK!
...Continue Reading
Since my buddy (Gerry) is retired he beat me to having the first operational SLOW STICK from the lot I found in my house last night!
Gerry really wants to go back to relaxing times and fly SLOW and LOW as he has a Grand Daughter (2 years old) that is transfixed with RC Airplanes!
Here is Gerry's Dark Green SLOW STICK with Brushless Power!
THE CRAZE IS BACK!...Continue Reading
Wow!
I had no idea that I had so many Slow Sticks and with a variety of colors!
I wished that I had the BLUE!
Two Slow Stick, I acquired from a good friend named RICHARD who moved away to Madison, WI.
Anyway, I found a brand new In-The-Box "YELLOW" Version Slow Stick, Slope Version (No Power System).
Got my hands FULL!
A few pictures from a few minutes ago!...Continue Reading
I had no idea that I had so many Slow Sticks and with a variety of colors!
I wished that I had the BLUE!
Two Slow Stick, I acquired from a good friend named RICHARD who moved away to Madison, WI.
Anyway, I found a brand new In-The-Box "YELLOW" Version Slow Stick, Slope Version (No Power System).
Got my hands FULL!
A few pictures from a few minutes ago!
...Continue Reading
Heck!
Talk about a revisiting an OLD and previously thought Long Gone GWS SLOW STICK!
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s-at-Graves-RC
Talk about a revisiting an OLD and previously thought Long Gone GWS SLOW STICK!
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...s-at-Graves-RC
Okay,
It was just perfect conditions and so much so that I almost got my original Park-zone P-47 Thunderbolt to do some very close to the ground (inches from the deck) flying with partial flaps and it almost landed! Got some behind me yelping and giving them Wedgies of sorts! HA!
Seriously, my original P-47 Thunderbolt (modified) with the Park Zone 480 (Black Stock Brushless Motor) flew delightfully with very quiet manners and ZERO vibrations coming from the Business End (Motor / Prop / etc...). Additionally, the landing could have been picture perfect but, I purposely pulled excessive UP Elevator to allow the model to slam down on the Textile Runway from about 15 inches and the Left Retract held with the Gorilla Wood Glue! During the Pre-Flight checks, I only had to cut around the main Gear Skirts as some of the Glue got around the skirts and adhered to the bottom of the wing. A hobby knife and being careful with the Retract cable did the trick and dislodged the Plastic Skirt from the Bottom of wing. I love this Gorilla Wood Glue as it does not leave any ugly residue.
The newer P-47 Thunderbolt (completely stock) with the provided from factory Park Zone 15 Black Brushless motor performed just flawlessly and with good power! This model I didn't fool around with and maintained Airspeed throughout it's flight routine. It is at least 2 ounces heavier up at the Business End and I mitigated the tendency of NOSE-OVER by pulling the flight (GENs ACE 3-Cell,...Continue Reading
It was just perfect conditions and so much so that I almost got my original Park-zone P-47 Thunderbolt to do some very close to the ground (inches from the deck) flying with partial flaps and it almost landed! Got some behind me yelping and giving them Wedgies of sorts! HA!
Seriously, my original P-47 Thunderbolt (modified) with the Park Zone 480 (Black Stock Brushless Motor) flew delightfully with very quiet manners and ZERO vibrations coming from the Business End (Motor / Prop / etc...). Additionally, the landing could have been picture perfect but, I purposely pulled excessive UP Elevator to allow the model to slam down on the Textile Runway from about 15 inches and the Left Retract held with the Gorilla Wood Glue! During the Pre-Flight checks, I only had to cut around the main Gear Skirts as some of the Glue got around the skirts and adhered to the bottom of the wing. A hobby knife and being careful with the Retract cable did the trick and dislodged the Plastic Skirt from the Bottom of wing. I love this Gorilla Wood Glue as it does not leave any ugly residue.
The newer P-47 Thunderbolt (completely stock) with the provided from factory Park Zone 15 Black Brushless motor performed just flawlessly and with good power! This model I didn't fool around with and maintained Airspeed throughout it's flight routine. It is at least 2 ounces heavier up at the Business End and I mitigated the tendency of NOSE-OVER by pulling the flight (GENs ACE 3-Cell,...Continue Reading
Wow!
I finally found out WHY-O-WHY my Original ParkZone P-47 Thunderbolt (Modified) had been observed with a vibration at the Prop!
After a little over seven (7) years after my modification from the ParkZone 15 BL motor -to- the ParkZone 480 BL (Stock Black Motors), it seems like the attaching screws that hold the 480 in it's Plastic Motor mount got lose!
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...80-%28960Kv%29
At least two were pretty lose and a simple tightening was done. No, didn't use any Lok Tite because I didn't want to risk the motor internals with any of this stuff going inside the motor.
Anyway, at least I know now what was the issue.
Additionally, last time I flew it, the battery took a dump of sorts and didn't seem to have enough power or so I thought and stupidly I landed down range of the Textile Runway and into rather tall grass (weeds) and the Left Retract came out completely out of the wing and slightly cracked the wing near the plastic gun cannons mold line. The retract itself didn't get damaged and the wing structure (spar) fortunately was not damaged in any way!
Using Gorilla Wood Glue and the wing and Retract Mount is on it's way for like new condition!
Can't wait to fly it again.
I finally found out WHY-O-WHY my Original ParkZone P-47 Thunderbolt (Modified) had been observed with a vibration at the Prop!
After a little over seven (7) years after my modification from the ParkZone 15 BL motor -to- the ParkZone 480 BL (Stock Black Motors), it seems like the attaching screws that hold the 480 in it's Plastic Motor mount got lose!
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...80-%28960Kv%29
At least two were pretty lose and a simple tightening was done. No, didn't use any Lok Tite because I didn't want to risk the motor internals with any of this stuff going inside the motor.
Anyway, at least I know now what was the issue.
Additionally, last time I flew it, the battery took a dump of sorts and didn't seem to have enough power or so I thought and stupidly I landed down range of the Textile Runway and into rather tall grass (weeds) and the Left Retract came out completely out of the wing and slightly cracked the wing near the plastic gun cannons mold line. The retract itself didn't get damaged and the wing structure (spar) fortunately was not damaged in any way!
Using Gorilla Wood Glue and the wing and Retract Mount is on it's way for like new condition!
Can't wait to fly it again.
Hello good people!
In my quest to keep my Park Zone T-28 Trojan operational and with the Tricycle Landing Gear, most especially the NOSE Wheel Strut steering, I am investigating other models that will work to re-construct the lower portion of the STOCK Firewall of the Park Zone T-28 Trojan and Steering!
My model has completely been busted with lost of ill fated landings (no, I am NOT a beginner) just that it has over 1,000 flights and stuff happens even with the most experienced RC Flyer! Poor model is OLD and has lots of flights on it's log.
Okay, I am closely looking at this model: (FMS 1400mm Sky Trainer 182 - BLUE):
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/FMM007-Manual-EN.pdf
You will see the plastic firewall and the nose wheel strut with spring loaded action!
I have ordered both!
We shall see how this ends up! I will provide a new thread over at the ParkFlyers Section!
You can see these parts at the Horizon Hobby Web Site!
https://www.horizonhobby.com/FMM007P...SABEgKIw_D_BwE
In my quest to keep my Park Zone T-28 Trojan operational and with the Tricycle Landing Gear, most especially the NOSE Wheel Strut steering, I am investigating other models that will work to re-construct the lower portion of the STOCK Firewall of the Park Zone T-28 Trojan and Steering!
My model has completely been busted with lost of ill fated landings (no, I am NOT a beginner) just that it has over 1,000 flights and stuff happens even with the most experienced RC Flyer! Poor model is OLD and has lots of flights on it's log.
Okay, I am closely looking at this model: (FMS 1400mm Sky Trainer 182 - BLUE):
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/FMM007-Manual-EN.pdf
You will see the plastic firewall and the nose wheel strut with spring loaded action!
I have ordered both!
We shall see how this ends up! I will provide a new thread over at the ParkFlyers Section!
You can see these parts at the Horizon Hobby Web Site!
https://www.horizonhobby.com/FMM007P...SABEgKIw_D_BwE
Okay good people,
First off, this has ZERO to do with the Re-Release of this same model by Horrizon / E-Flite a few weeks ago!
Besides Rocketsled666 who I know is going to say NOT to install any more additional items to make the Retracts work better because one is adding more stuff to fail (failure points), I am wondering what the REST of you OUT there have experienced with these Electric Retracts by E-Flite?
WHY?
Because at the start of initial activation of my Model the Main Retracts will NOT come DOWN so, I can taxi this large & heavy model. Yes, I store this model with GEAR-UP. I would have to disconnect the NOSE Wheel Retract in order to get the MAINS DOWN and then, Disconnect the MAINS and reconnect the NOSE retract so, ALL gears would be in the GEAR-DOWN position.
Not only is this a Hassle but, unnerving from a stand point of flying this model and placing the Retracts in GEAR-UP position as I am NOT certain if they will come back down????
I have the NOSE Retract and the Mains in a Y-Connector and the Output plug towards the Receiver so, NO separate Battery configuration as of yet.
My QUESTION "IS" does anyone have experienced this issue and if so, how did you solve it?
A Video that I recorded today but, as you can see ALL Operated like it should!
TIA!
First off, this has ZERO to do with the Re-Release of this same model by Horrizon / E-Flite a few weeks ago!
Besides Rocketsled666 who I know is going to say NOT to install any more additional items to make the Retracts work better because one is adding more stuff to fail (failure points), I am wondering what the REST of you OUT there have experienced with these Electric Retracts by E-Flite?
WHY?
Because at the start of initial activation of my Model the Main Retracts will NOT come DOWN so, I can taxi this large & heavy model. Yes, I store this model with GEAR-UP. I would have to disconnect the NOSE Wheel Retract in order to get the MAINS DOWN and then, Disconnect the MAINS and reconnect the NOSE retract so, ALL gears would be in the GEAR-DOWN position.
Not only is this a Hassle but, unnerving from a stand point of flying this model and placing the Retracts in GEAR-UP position as I am NOT certain if they will come back down????
I have the NOSE Retract and the Mains in a Y-Connector and the Output plug towards the Receiver so, NO separate Battery configuration as of yet.
My QUESTION "IS" does anyone have experienced this issue and if so, how did you solve it?
A Video that I recorded today but, as you can see ALL Operated like it should!
TIA!
| E-Flite Carbon T-28 Trojan 78-inch wing span RC Airplane Model Retracts (2 min 49 sec) |
