I use a 3S 4000 and a 4S 4000 on the stock battery tray but the nose wheel steering servo and linkage obstructs the placement of the lighter weight 3S pack. I made a battery tray that just clears the steering system and is removable for steering adjustment. I used Luan plywood but 1/16 ply will work.

The cowl uses 3 screws to secure it to the nacelle. Once those are removed you still have to remove the spinner bolt, adapter nut, prop, and backplate. If you can’t remove the prop because of a jammed nut or stripped collet threads then cutting the cowl away is one way. Here is a cowl that uses red (or white) electrical tape to hide the cut line. The top tape can stay in place and act as a hinge. The remaining cut lines can be hidden or left visible as the 3 screws will secure the cowl to the nacelle.

I made up a tool to keep the the motor from turning while tightening the prop adapter nut. If you can’t keep the motor from spinning by gripping the spinner backplate you must grip the motor. Removing the cowl with this clamshell mod will allow you to do this and screw it back in place. If you have a prop strike and suspect a loose motor mount this mod allows you to inspect the motor area quicker because the prop will not have to be removed.

The top hinge can be made from any kind of tape. I have been using a Tyvek paper hinges on flaps and other flight controls and CA works excellent on plastic if it’s sanded first. However clear or electrical tape can be used.

The Esprit Prop Shaft Adapter is about 30 % bigger than the stock unit so you can put more torque on the nut and threads. This translates so about 30% more gripping power between the aluminum collet and steel 5 mm motor shaft. In Jason M’s video he recommends holding the spinner backplate or motor to keep the threaded adaptor from turning. This is done with one hand while the other hand uses a wrench to tighten the nut.

I made up a tool that slips into one of the 4 motor cooling slots and this keeps the motor/shaft from turning while the collet is being tightened onto the shaft. It’s a steel 6 “ mending bar that I cut with a hacksaw and filed down to fit the slot. It’s bent into an “S” shape to fit between the prop and plastic nacelle. The nacelle is cut out for clearance.