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Views: 243
Even with just stock gearing the G3.0 feels like twice the power of a Picco and 4x the power of the Sirio and Novarossi CX .12. Im loving this little powerhouse basher. The stock pipe is not giving me the low end like the TTN's its more upper mid and top. -
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Bike is finished and I got 4 tanks on it so far. The stock gearing is not putting much of a load on engine so it was hard to get temps up, it was only 72f ambient temp. too but it did great, really feels planted and powerful. -
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Over lap excess servo leds in between servos for a clean look and run leds down and back up on front left side. -
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Hobby king has these servo arms, I like them and when trimmed right will give you equal non-bias pull for easier front/rear brake tuning. Hobby king also has the LiFe 700mah receiver battery for major weight loss and extra servo power/speed. -
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Im working on setting up a rear brake using the later model std. brake on the older wheels and hub. I need a rear hub adapter from Pats Brakes. -
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I been using one of these servos in another bike for testing and it has passed the test for me, its a great little servo for the money. Ti. gears, fast and a heat sink also light weight so it keeps the CG lower. You can get these from Dinball on e-bay . -
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Hard to tell it has a heat sink because its black. -
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All ready to go. Mount the receiver under the steering damper and make some kind of antenna tube using the servo screw to hold it. I can not stress enough how important it is to have the antenna up like this even with 2.4.
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Remove the carb and seal all the openings. Notice the pen marks for a guide. -
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Use a dremmel cut-off wheel to grind away the area that hits the carb idle adjustment. You may have to test fit the carb many times before you get enough . -
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Be sure and take enough material off so its not hitting with the carb fully pressed in, should be able to see light threw the gap. This will insure trouble free running. The idle screw is covered by the fuel tank but I have never had a need to adjust it -
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501 with HPI roto. You will need to trim the frame for this set up to work but it is nice and easy to start. You will sacrifice a couple degrees of left lean with the roto and it is extra weight. -
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Fits fine in the 509 with the roto. -
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This is what you can do if you want to lose weight, have more lean angle and save yourself from molesting your frame on a 501. Just start it using the one way and a drill. -
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Thunder Tiger exhaust bike is one of my favorites, it's very restrictive, wheelies on command and feels like 4 stroke power, also much longer run times. Its a low end torque beast with the correct gearing. -
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TTN exhaust's are very quiet and also affordable. You can just cut the TTN mid pipe to fit no problem.
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Finished Bike -
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Its ready to go -
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I already had some nice old NF wheels with some PMT 200 treaded tires so I just used them until I get the Allevens that came with it painted black or I might leave these on, they feel good on the bike. -
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Body/rider painting is next. -
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Installed a micro savox. on 3rd mix for rear brake I think it has around 59 in/oz torque at 6v but Im running a LiFE at 6.6 nominal, it might be more like 65 in/oz. with it. Works great so far and is super light so no real disadvantage I can see. -
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509e Race lower body fits really well on the old 68mm chassis. -
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Was easy to fit and gives max lean. -
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26 degree of lean on the spur side and about 27 on the left because of the roto, I could lose the roto and gain a couple more but its good. -
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1891 grams, I thought it would be lighter but I think the bulk of the extra weight is the roto gears and one-way, also sporting a steel spur. I was expecting it to be around 1855. -
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LiFe battery -
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Notice the shortened body mounts to bring the body in close. This helps fitting the body a lot. -
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zip tied to the lower body -
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This mod allows you to raise the rear as high as you want and deletes the steel battery trey. -
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I can charge my battery while working on the chassis. -
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RG @ 1851 -
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TTN @ 1860 with one way removed and how it will be driven with crash bars so its really only 9 grams heavier than the RG and 2 grams lighter than the 701
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Using the late model NF fork to gain the ground clearance I need for more lean angle. -
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Had to shave down the axle end spacer on the Torque Works swinger to mount the Pats Brakes. I also had to grind down the little rotor mounting bolts on the back side to make the rotor float square. -
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Had to do this to get the caliper as close the hub as possible in order so save as much of the axle end spacer as I could. -
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This is before and placing the caliper close would bind the rotor. -
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This is after.
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Had to trim the engine back plate in order to get it back, will just use the one way to crank. -
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Trimmed the excess frame wrap around because it blocks the easy use of a glow lighter and it lost a few grams. I have had nothing but trouble from remote glow lighters after some heavy use. -
Views: 227
OEM TT clutch and flywheel set up worked out nice but a different clutch with larger shoes would be better. -
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The RD pipe is growing on me, I have never liked the looks of it but it is necessary to have an expansion chambered pipe for max RPM's so in that I like it now. My run times are short with this engine and pipe combo but it is very fast. -
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I think these are CNR wheels and they have the TT type groove for the front brake. -
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Pat says my rear brake is on the way.
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There is an alloy spacer where the adjuster grub hits and I thought the bike didn't have enough negative rake even adjusted all the way out so I trimmed the adjuster block to give more range of adjustment. -
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On the 7th tank the clutch nut came loose after my little mod vibrated off, it gave me a chance to see how the 4 shoe reverse clutch works and I went back to the factory set up with thread lock. -
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It needed a little extra shimming to take the torque load off the clutch bearings. -
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It came with the hard white shock spring stock but since I run in a parking lot the softer yellow medium spring greatly improved the contact and helped soften the hits with the hard wheel insert. -
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I cut out a small lexan square and shoe goo it around the front body mount after pre-reaming the mount hole. -
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I also doubled up on the rear lower body mounts. I sanded the tabs and cleaned both surfaces with alcohol. -
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Used a very thin coat of shoe goo. -
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Should last much longer. Hind sight I would have cut around this area and left more meat but didn't know I was going to mount here till after I cut the body.
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I replaced the fuel line with Du-Bro because I have had bad experiences with factory NF line. I also added a fuel filter, the pick up tube in the tank has one too but it cant hurt. -
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This something I do to all my nitros, add a small piece of rubber hose on the tip of the pipe so its just over the edge a little. Keeps the tip from getting damaged when your starting the engine and draining the pipe after a run or a crash.
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the throttle servo is installed to where I can replace it easy but the others I will have to split the chassis because they are mounted from the inside of the plate. I had to do it that way for good clearance fitment around the exhaust. -
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the bike comes apart in minuets. It is the easiest nitro bike to work on I have ever had. This bike is leaps and bounds. I mounted the steering servo inside so the damper would have a more straight line to the triple.
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had to take just a little off the chin of the helmet to get clearance for the front body mount -
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I reamed my holes for the crash bars as small as I could because with the bars installed it adds a lot of rigidity to the upper and helps hold it better. Note the grub screw access . -
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Pointed all the grubs toward the rear on these three.