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Cut the sheeting to the #2 rib on both sides, just wide enough for the pack and some finger room. you can see the 1/4" balsa stick i added for the tray support -
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the notch in the fuse makes removal and install of the pack easy -
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type of velcro strap i use, from Homedepot -
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getting the tray ready, this one is 1/8" lite ply -
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velcro added its glued to the back with epoxy from what i remember -
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motor mount area expanded for the diameter of the motor -
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the foam blocks give you something to put weights on while the glue sets -
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Views: 225
had a great day today no wind and 52+deg, December! In Buffalo! What! -
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I tested all the z-bend fit with the G10 horns, no problem, just work them in slow, the fit ends up perfect -
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had a bit more tail to the tips of the ailerons than there should be, little trim -
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make sure to scuff the g10 parts before gluing, the best glue i know of is still Beacon QuickGrip! sold at Super Walmarts -
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don't glue the wrong side of the wing to the fuse, make sure to line up the spar slot -
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hardware was in the instruction book bag -
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close up of the CNC machine cut G10 hardware, we put a lot of thought and work into this hardware -
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with the spar slot lined up there was a slight gap in the front edge of the wing slot (on one side), i filled this gap in with a piece of scrap from the fuse servo cutouts
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shaft is built into the aluminum end bell of the motor. -
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the shaft is 5mm O.D. -
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gemfan prop, has a stock 5mm hole! -
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8x3.8SF APC prop, comes with a 5mm spacer ring! takes some x-acto trimming to get it to be a smooth fit do to all the flashing on the APC spacer rings -
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ready to fly 18oz (~500g) -
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G-Force E400 1250kv motor, will use a 10x3.7sf prop or a GWS 10x6HD prop -
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"bolt on" prop adapter comes pre-installed -
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very nice braided jackets over the motor leads, -
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X-mount -
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at this size (power) a "wobbly" prop adapter would be silly to use but it's nice for the parts bin -
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use blue (med strength) thread-lock for the x-mount screws
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Unboxing -
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parts as they come, note the prop adapter is already mounted at the factory -
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Just look at those motor leads, they use high temp and strength braided covers over the leads, very nicely done -
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back end of the motor, Colette type prop adapter is not included so for a through firewall type install one would need to be purchased for a 4mm shaft -
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i like to add a spacer from an APC spacer set so that the collar can be tightened with the X-mount installed, this collar keeps the motor together even if the split ring retainer fails -
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very well done hardware and very nice machining
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one detail i didn't go over on the G202 is squaring the pivot rod for the full flying stab, square the rod with the tab slots and before the glue sets move the pivots until you achieve square -
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align the aileron horn z-bend hole with the hinge-line, you should really put the horn slightly back from dead center over the hinge-line to get even up and down aileron, but its a very small difference -
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i use the horn as a guide to cut the slot to glue these in, only needs to be about a 5mm deep slot, use a new blade, EPP will drag and tear with a dull blade -
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to make a more accurate build, cut the rudder off, not at the hinge-line but about an inch in front of the hinge, so you have two fuse parts and a rudder instead of all one part -
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now when you glue this you can square it easier than when its one part and do it flat on a board, i know... it's not rocket science -
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stock photo from VH look at those puny little girly man screws! -
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stock motor -
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those two little girly screws are the stock M3 flat head Phillips screws, i didn't use the 8mm Phillips, 1mm too long IMO -
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I found some nice ~7mm total length M3 hex heads, and ground those (they are "6mm" screws the head makes them over 7mm long) -
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new screws installed -
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this is different but longer than stock screws and a latex band cut from thick wall surgical tubing
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nice box... -
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inside the box -
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I love that the shaft matches the standard Gemfan 8x4.5SF prop hole, NO DRILLING! -
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comes with all these bolts and the 2.5mm alen key -
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only 4g more than the 2206 1500kv G-force i typically use on these planes, i can deal with that -
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will have to drill the Sabre EPP G10 motor mount -
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i didn't use the included bolts these are lighter and have very small heads, they are from the O-ring keepers on the G-force 2206 motor,, they are too short for that use so i have them for things like this!
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if your sheets have a slight curve to them side to side, you can usually match up the curve instead of cutting all of them strait, if all the curves are facing the same way the edges will meet up fine. -
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I liek to weigh all my sheets, and have equal weights on both sides of the fuse... Not edge glued, just tape the sheets togeather, full taped seams the glue will work into the seams when u glue the sheeting to the foam -
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cut and taped sheets -
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i cut channels into the foam using a soldering gun and a wood strait edge, very easy to do, these are .180" CF tubes, same ones i use for push-rods, they fit over 4-40 threaded rod perfect, link for the tube above -
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Tubes cut and test fit, there is one on the left of the fuse toward the bottom (below wing) , and on the right above the wing opening -
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rough up the tube a bit, 220 grit here -
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smooth foam will take less glue to bond than rough foam, blow or vacuum off well before glue
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G202 EPP 32" -
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Sabre EPP 32" -
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something like this is helpful, especially for things like installing the push-rods and guides, when the fuse is together it's cumbersome, this holder lets things dry square -
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open box, ok i already looked at the manual at this point, the manual is ok, just hard to see what is going on in those black and white pics -
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stuff, layed out -
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fold over the EPP hinges to free them up, mine didn't really need this, they were perfectly free as was -
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more folding not really needed
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finished proto -
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left side, this is the scheme Valuehobby.com will use -
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top -
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bottom -
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i stack 9mm epp together with some 3M spray bandsaw the parts then cut the thinner ones in half, for the big parts i just use a #11 blade and a stainless rule where i can -
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i like all the servo leads on the same side -
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makes it easier to do this ahead of gluing it on, Quick Grip ! -
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nice and clean
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spar system took some thought, when its laser cut it would be one part, but i had to band saw them in halves -
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the front and rear spar are different, stacked i just had to cut 4parts at the same time for the front and 4 for the back spars, (left and right) -
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they get glued together with white gorilla glue -
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i added balsa webs to reinforce the joints because they were not to tight of joints -
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smurf ladders -
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center rib, clearance for the battery pocket -
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Poll:
Gile 202 schemes
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i draw my stuff in cad, i draw refrence grid lines so i can "window" print 8.5x11 at 1:1 scale on a standard printer, then it's some cutting and taping, dont have a big printer yet, maybe some day -
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like this 3M spray, works great for patterns, i have had release issues with other stuff or the tip clogs, not with this one -
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cut by hand with a #11, didn't take that long, i cut everything on this one out of the 9mm, i rip the 9mm in half on my bandsaw with a fence, for parts which are to be thinner like these and the SFG type things, its very clean and easy -
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after ripped in half (bookmatch style) -
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some other stuff ripped in half -
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used my hinge cutter adjusted to cut the slot for the spar tube, i like using these thin wall tubes i think its 5mm od, .5mm wall.. nice and stiff and light -
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full flying elevator design i got from somebody else, wish i could remember who i think it was 9 years ago when i saw somebody do this with an EPP bipe.. anyway its got ply pivots heat-shrink washers and 2mm carbon rod