Posted by Alan 3D | Today @ 07:01 PM | 12 Views
Line straight horizontal.
Wing wave/rock.
Tale wag.
Figure 8 Horizontal.
Inverted figure 8 horizontal.
Vertical figure 8 / Cuban figure 8.
Half Cuban 8.
Half reversed Cuban 8.
Barrel roll.
Inverted loop.
Inverted turn 90/180/360.
Inside loop / non-inverted at top / rolling loop.
Square loop.
Square loop inverted.
Half roll over top 180 / Immelman.
Inverted half roll over top 180 similar to outside loop.
Hammerhead / Stall Turn.
Double hammerhead / stall turn and flat vertical spin.
Flat spin.
Flat inverted spin.
Knife edge.
Knife edge turn 90 / 180 / 360.
Knife edge Tale wag.
Knife edge loop -Extreme. maneuver / flat vertical loop.
Harrier / Elevator.
Rolling harrier.
Rolling turn.
Hovering flip - extreme.
Vertical roll / up down.
Vertical Spiral / up down.
Tail slide/Vertical drop backwards or whip stall.
Flat loop.
Flat inverted loop.
Snap roll.
Snap roll. Inside/outside
Snap roll yaw.
Flare / plow.
High speed break

Ground loop is with aircraft on the ground. Sometimes with vectored thrust.
Posted by Alan 3D | Today @ 05:38 PM | 138 Views
What makes a good landing?

Good airspeed
Low rate/expo
Low angle of attack.
Knowing your aircraft's characteristics.
Wind conditions.
Judging distance.
Knowing your air field or Landing strip.
Recognizing when something is wrong and how to fix it.

Landing in a appropriate area like in the middle of the field where there are no obstacles rather than the edge of field where there are many objects to crash into. Distance is compressed when the aircraft is coming toward you and it's hard to judge distance so aim for the middle of the field is usually the better choice. Often RC pilots do not use the field in its entirety to their advantage but rather use one corner of it misjudging distance from edge of field usually where there are trees and other obstructions.
In other words don't make your descent before you're over the field. Don't pass behind trees during landings or any other time.

Landing strips
These issues become more compounded when landing in crosswinds. Increase your airspeed. Determine whether or not your aircraft lands well with or without flaps. Again judging distance is not a good idea, don't try to land at the very beginning of the air strip. Shoot more to the center is usually a better solution.

Putting wheels on the ground.
Often problems that people have on landings is they don't put the wheels on the ground before the aircraft stalls. They let their aircraft fly parallel to the ground expecting something good to happen....Continue Reading
Posted by W.cutlip | Today @ 03:44 PM | 254 Views
This is the cub let's get started
Posted by djmoose | Today @ 01:20 PM | 499 Views
This part 1 of episode 3 will prepare the horns and servo pockets for the ailerons and flaps. I'll explain how to prepare the surfaces and hardware as well as getting out the epoxy for the first time in the build.

How to install the Aileron / Flap Horns and Servo pockets on the CYModel 84" Lavochkin La-7 ARF (12 min 17 sec)

Posted by unboxingexp | Today @ 01:02 PM | 492 Views
I ve built this tiny drone based on a Flywoo Firefly frame. I used standard tinywhoop parts like a Diamond F4 AIO board and 0802 motors. Props are Gemfan's 40mm bi-blades. Overall, the weight is only 24.5g without battery and Insta360 Go2.
Tiniest FPV cinedrone (8 min 1 sec)

Posted by seniorpilot | Today @ 12:41 PM | 502 Views
I'm in the process of building the Dynaflite PT-19. The manual is not very detailed, lacking steps of construction for servo mounting and fuel tank installation. I've fabricated a servo tray and I'm also building a tray to hold the fuel tank in position behind the firewall. The bill of material calls for a total of 6 servos: 3 standard, 2 high torque and 1 quarter scale servo. Again, the plans show general placement of servos in the fuselage, but no top down view. the manual shows nothing. I've determined that the 2 high torque will be used for the ailerons, the 3 standard are for rudder, elevator and throttle. I have no idea why I need a quarter scale servo.

Has anyone built this model, if so, can you share your info on your build?
Also, is there a video on You Tube? I understand there may be a video showing the build, but I haven't between able to find it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated....,,,Greg
Posted by viking60 | Today @ 11:58 AM | 585 Views

Most of my Recent RC design & Building projects can be accessed on my web site:

My most recent project has been designing and refining the HIGHLANDER bush plane series variants; details on this page:

Posted by Zaitsevsky | Today @ 07:43 AM | 912 Views
This drone is designed to mechanically block light UAVs at a distance of few kilometers. The ratio between the drone's high engine thrust and low mass is its competitive advantage. It can fly fast. Drone rotors are used to spread the net. The high energy and mass of the rotors allows the use of a larger net. The drone is equipped with a parachute and a siren. The interceptor does not contain anything prohibited. It is classified as a racing drone. Several containers with interceptors can be placed on a patrol car.
How the interceptor drone is invented (1 min 15 sec)

Posted by Tazkiller85 | Today @ 06:03 AM | 990 Views
🧐Yep Les Amis,
En toute transparence !!! lol . J'ai en test depuis quelque temps le nouveau fer à souder de chez SEQURE, le S1012. Original et plutôt bien conçu, cet appareil vous permettra non seulement, de souder à domicile ou sur le terrain, mais il est également polyvalent et acceptera des pannes de différentes longueur selon vos besoin. Sécurisé et facile d'utilisation, sa rapidité de chauffe et ses options de programmation, faciliteront certainement vos travaux de soudure. En bref, si dans le temps il est aussi résistant et fiable que le TS100, je valide ... Prenez soin de vous (et des autres) et merci à tous pour votre soutien .

SEQURE S1012 - Review Test Démo - Résultat Concours Permanent ! (19 min 7 sec)

🧐NOTATAZ : 17/20 Bien! A voir dans la durée ...

Chez SEQURE ( Coupon TAZKILLER85 ) :
- S1012 :
- SQ-D60B Fer à souder :
- SQ ES126 Tournevis Elec ( coupon 10% SQES126 ) :
- Fers à souder SEQURE :
- Accessoires soudure :
Chez Banggood :
- Alimentation 4-24V :
- Panne longues T12 :
- Paille de fer :
- Pompe à dessouder :
- Flux conducteur :
- Accessoires soudure :

Prévisions et Nouveautés, Bientôt en TEST en...Continue Reading
Posted by Alann | Today @ 03:04 AM | 1,332 Views
Image 1 shows the right wing spar constructed from the 1/2 inch Hobby Lobby foam board. I have left the paper covering to help reduce bending. The top and bottom of the spar has exposed foam so it can glue to the wing skin. The ribs are made from 3/16 inch Hobby Lobby foam board. I have left the paper on the sides of the ribs for strength. The edges of the ribs have exposed foam which will be glued the foam of the top and bottom skin. The spar and the ribs have notches cut into them so that they can be slid together. The ribs are glued to the spar using White Gorilla glue. note: This glue is activated with moisture. To glue the rubs to the spar the spar is first sprayed with water. The glue is then applied to the ribs and then slid into the spar notches.

Image 2 shows the bottom skin attached to the spar and rib structure. The bottom skin uses 3/16 foam board from DollarTree. Dollar Tree foam is more bendable than Hobby Lobby 316 foam board making the DollarTree foam more easily formed to the contour of the ribs. I have removed the paper covering from the bottom skin and sprayed it with water. I then applied White Gorilla glue to the bottom edge of the ribs and spar. I then aligned the two together and used pins to hold the two pieces together while the glue cured.

Image 3 shows the right wing structure showing the 1/4 inch round dowel leading edge. I chose to use a 1/4 inch round dowel as it closely matches the proper leading edge contour of the Clark Y wing profile. It is also possible to see the grooves I made every two tenths of an inch using the edge of a #1 Phillips-head screw driver so I could bend the skin to contour to the profile of the rib between its leading edge and the spar.

Image 4 shows the area of the wing where the aileron will go. Notice the back edge of the wing is slanted backwards so that the aileron will be able to move in a downward direction without hitting the wing edge.
Posted by RCWorks | Today @ 02:52 AM | 1,348 Views
I finally got some of the key pieces to do the build...

Since it is a purpose built frame that included the steerer and head tube.

I am documenting the parts here in this thread to keep a record of what they are and where they came from.

The 1 inch steerer, 240mm length.

Head tube
1.375" O.D.,
0.095" Wall
1.185" I.D.

Headset. Any cheap 1 inch headset will do.
I found this offering for $3

Because I will use clip on handle bars I will cap the steerer with a threadless head set cap. Not required, just for looks...

I got a whole fork assembly for less than this but this is what you are after. My fork was $50 shipped.
I will be using 4130 1.25" O.D ,.125" walls inch tubing for the fork tubes. I don't know what the factory tubes are made of and how well it likes to be welded. Since I don't like losing a front wheel going down the road I will be using a steel that I know will weld well and not be risky down the road. I guess you could test your medical insurance by using the factory fork tubes...
The length of my forks is dictated by the radius of the wheel and tire.

Before I open the garage I need to go to the milling machine and cut a slot in the steerer for a "lock washer". This will be the first video. I need it done before the steerer is welded in.

Here is a picture of what you need from the virago forks because I know that ebay post will one day be gone.
Posted by charlton29 | Today @ 02:03 AM | 1,389 Views
So, I took my Milan out for a run in a modest wind. I am still getting used to the idea of flying something that big and how far away it can be, also getting used to using all the flaps, crow, camber control, elevator compensation and whatnot. I did not try to to anything too radical as far as aerobatics goes, but enjoyed a bit of a cruise. The scenery is quite spectacular and looks even better from above, with the various coastal rock formations. Enjoy!

Oh, the video link:
Just Cruising (7 min 21 sec)

Posted by burkefj | Today @ 01:15 AM | 1,357 Views
I got a chance to maiden my upscale Pegasus XL and Space Transporter America R/C rocket gliders as well as my upscale Avro Vulcan using an onboard Spektrum 6610T receiver with telemetry for altitude...

Highpower Pegasus XL R/C rocket glider (3 min 25 sec)

Large Highpower R/C Space Transporter America rocket glider (3 min 57 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by healthyfatboy | Yesterday @ 09:19 PM | 1,698 Views
Ready to be assembled
Posted by old4570 | Yesterday @ 06:03 PM | 1,807 Views
XK A800 & WL F959 (11 min 0 sec)

Havent flown these in a very long time ..

XK A800 was flown yesterday and the F959 was flown this morning .
When I left home this morning there was a slight breeze ...
Nothing to worry about right ?
By the time I got to the park , it was a wind turning into a Northerly Gale ...
Oh well ! The F959 actually handled that wind reasonably well .. ( Could have gone without the wind ) .
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 03:12 PM | 2,167 Views
Face track run (1 hr 0 min 8 sec)

Complete face tracked run. It does a much better job than a lion manually pointing it. The only downside is not being able to manually point at something else.

Face track bloopers (2 min 49 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Quagga75 | Yesterday @ 01:19 PM | 2,232 Views
A FLZ version of this glider which I started from a WIK design which after finding factory drawings turned out to be very scale.
The original Eppler e195 was compared and replaced with the with the NM 32, a profile intended to improve the performance of the famous HQ profiles which are legion on large flap or non-flap gliders. This profile may be a little thick for this scale especially at the tip where the original had a 9% e174. Scaling the design up to 1-4 should be relatively easy in FLZ-Vortex.
Posted by JohnVH | Yesterday @ 11:05 AM | 2,487 Views
GUYS! Huge sale at Hobbyking! Check it out!

The Albatross is $50 off!

Yak-11 is $70 off!

Plus LOTS of other massive discounts!!