This is loosely based on the HL-10 but with a wider span to reduce roll oscillation that was prevalent in my previous X-24A that I made. I also modified the shape somewhat to reduce the lower half of the model and moved the motor/vertical stab forward to make it easier to get CG correct. It's a very docile and well behaved model. Boosts nearly hands off, really minor steering inputs required, pitch control very good right up to nearly standstill. I've put the plans on my plans page. There are three spars, one accross the span and two in line with the leading edge to add some stiffness. The keel is double wide which allows me to mount the rail buttons directly through some styrene skid material and add two wing skids ahead and behind to protect the buttons on landing. the wing tips are supported by a 6mm gusset and angled outward slightly and have a very slight toe in for some shuttlecock stabilization drag. Decals I worked out through stickershock23.com and they put a nice touch. The panel lines are all with a sharpie fine line marker and straight edge.

The HL-10 was not an air force model but there was a prank where markings were applied to the HL-10, and I think it looked less plain this way.

Wingspan is 24"(20" would be scale), length 31", 12.5 ounces rtf with a rocket motor. I'm running a single cell 500mah eflite battery straigh to the spektrum AR-400 receiver and 2 hs-55 servos. Really simple light setup.

Here's some flight video

HL-10 lifting body RC profile rocket glider (4 min 15 sec)

It's available as a kit at www.dynasoarrocketry.com


Frank

This is a Titan II Missile built using a 29mm loc stuffer tube with a 14x4" pml phenolic parachute bay. the idea was to do a lighweight version at the same scale as my heavy duty 20# version. 7.6" diameter, 82" long using 1/8" lexan fins.

In order to make the lexan fin mount solid(since you can't rely on the foam to be strong enough for landing loads) I used two ply centering rings at the rear with hardwood pieces that made slots in the front and rear of the fins. Those act as guide slots in effect. For the nose I found a 2.5" hardwood decorative ball at a craft store, and turned it in my drill press to make a shoulder. This will also add a bit of nose weight for the model.

For the nozzles I found some stainless steel measuring jiggers that had measuring lines that look pretty good. I used some standoffs and made some piping out of flexy straws painted titanium color. The central motor will fit inbetween the nozzles.

I used the rear centering rings as guides for cutting out all of the depron centering rings. I then cut the longerons and assembled the straight structure over the stuffer tube. I then skinned it using a 2mm depron skin. I then built the tapered section that would be part of the nose and skinned that. Once complete I slid the nose section onto the stuffer tube centering rings. At that point I applied the silver trim monokote to the front and rear and added the vinyl markings that Mark at Stickershock made for me. The...Continue Reading